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Chapter 20 Continue cheese

Taste of the world 唐魯孫 2074Words 2023-02-05
Speaking of cheese, there is probably no one in Peiping who is over 50 years old who does not like cheese.Three or five fellow villagers from Peiping get together to chat, and everyone can't help salivating when anyone mentions cheese. Cheese is divided into water cheese and cheese, both of which are mainly made of milk, so they are also called cheese.The water cheese is whitish in color and slightly less concentrated, and is more tender and fragrant than glass jelly. The cheese is sweet and creamy with a slight milky yellowish creaminess, which implies a bad smell. Cheese is sold in wooden barrels along the street, and it is also sold in milk tea shops.There are less than 20 milk tea shops in and outside Beiping city, but all of them sell cheese.These shops are called milk tea shops, but they are actually mainly selling cheese, but they are not called cheese shops but milk tea shops.In this kind of shop, you can not only drink cheese, but also have a bowl of hot milk. If you ask him for milk tea, he will be blind.In order to attract customers, some milk tea shops put up a wooden board at the door of the shop, and write a big cheese on pink paper on it.Some wrote a few red and green notes about a large bowl of cheese, and pasted them obliquely on the glass windows facing the street, which were considered their advertisements.

At that time, there was a Mr. Jin Shoushen in Beiping called Beiping Tong. He was a Mongolian and had settled in Beiping for many years.He said that the Yuan Dynasty was originally a nomadic people, and the most particular about drinking thick and strong milk tea.Tea bricks, milk ghee, and some salt are the most original milk tea.Later, the evolution of the times led to the cheese we drink now.That's why cheese sellers are still called milk tea shops. I heard from the older generation that it was probably during the Dade period not long after the founding of the Yuan Dynasty. There were two generals who were like brothers in protecting the country and were planning to retire. The emperor asked them what reward they wanted, but neither of them could tell why.The emperor knew that they all came from herding cattle and sheep on the Mongolian grassland since they were young, so they each rewarded fifty strong dairy cows and allowed them to find land near Dadu for business.The two brothers were friends in adversity, so one opened a milk tea shop called Erheyi near Dongsi Pailou in Dongcheng, and the other opened a milk tea shop called Erheshun in Xisi, so later they multiplied outside the city of Beiping. To more than 20 milk tea shops.All fonts and sizes called Erhe were developed by the descendants of the two brothers.The thoroughfare in the city of Beiping, no matter where the shopkeepers live, is absolutely forbidden to raise a large number of livestock. However, there is a not too small cattle pen in the backyard of Erheyi and Erheshun. No one interfered.What the elders said may be true!

Around the 20th year of the Republic of China, ice cream, iced snacks, and popsicles became popular in Beiping, and cheese and sour plum soup gradually declined, but there were still a dozen or so milk tea shops selling cheese.Erheyi, Erheshun, and Erhexuan on West Chang'an Street all specialize in large bowls of cheese, and Xiangleixuan in Xihuamen specializes in water cheese milk tea.Later, a milk tea shop opened in the door frame alley. Because the alley is narrow, pedestrians can only walk through it and vehicles cannot pass through it. Everyone who passes by the milk tea shop wants to go in to drink a bowl of cheese, sweat and rest their feet.

With the same heart, the more customers there are, the more prosperous the business will be.There is a kind of cheese with nuts. Others want cheese with nuts, which may not be available, but door frame alley needs cheese with nuts, which is always available.His family also has a special kind of cheese made of pine nuts and white raisins, which is light yellow and jade, sweet and smooth, which can be said to be a masterpiece of milk snacks. Yan Jupeng liked to tell jokes most during his lifetime. He said that after drinking the pine nut butter, he seemed to have added a bit of immortality, and when he was on stage, the huqin was half a tune high, and he could match it.It's a joke, but it's a testament to how evocative pine nut cheese can be.

The rising star of the milk tea shop belongs to Fengsheng Gong in Dong'an Market.Because there are foreign guests visiting his house every day, he not only pays special attention to hygiene, but also has a lot of milk snacks besides cheese.The mandarin duck milk roll has hawthorn cake on one side, and white sugar and sesame noodles on the other. It is both beautiful and delicious.The milk wuta is cold and creamy, yellow and white in color, pink, green and golden, and it melts in the mouth.His family roasts 20 to 30 catties of cheese every day, and eats bread for breakfast, which is much better than fresh jam and salty cheese.

After I came to Taiwan, I only saw a cold drink shop selling cheese on Zhonghua Road more than 20 years ago. I once drank three bowls in one go. The taste and appearance were almost the same. 10, even if the smell of wine is not wine, and it is not bad enough.Not long after, the cold drink shop was closed, and there was no place to drink such comforting cheese. During the Spring Festival this year in Taipei, I sat with Liang Shiqiu and his wife at the State Guest Hotel. When talking about Beiping snacks, everyone started talking about cheese.I just found out that the yoghurt on Zhonghua Road was made by Ms. Huang Aishan, the daughter-in-law of Qi Ru.Mr. Liang said that he developed a Western-style cheese in the United States, which is convenient and simple, comparable to Peking cheese.

It's a pity that I was in a hurry at the time, and I didn't ask Mr. Liang what ingredients to use and how to make it. Afterwards, I regretted it very much. On April 21, Mr. Liang published an article called Cheese on the Vientiane Edition, which made the method of making cheese known to everyone.First melt the curd flakes and add them to the milk, then add sugar and spices, heat and cool, put it in the refrigerator, and you can take it out to entertain guests in a quarter of an hour. It is really simple and feasible.The author wants to try it out recently. If the results are good, I plan to do more, so that I can entertain my colleagues and have a good time.

In addition, Mr. Liang mentioned in the article that the cheese sellers who carry buckets to the street carry a pair of lottery boxes in their arms, and draw lots with customers.As far as I know, this kind of play has big wins and losses. There are always tricks to draw Pai Gow, big points, true and false fives.They can draw lots anytime and anywhere by the corner, in the shade of a tree, or in a gate. It has never been heard that the police have arrested them.The cheese seller said it well: when you pass through the streets and alleys, the policemen will turn a blind eye, and the cheese seller will pass by.

Once, the author talked to Yin Huanran, the director of the second district of the police station, about the peddler who hawked sticks along the street. Yin said that in addition to selling cheese, there are also hawkers who sell hot noodle dumplings and candied haws. Those who sell roast chicken are all packaged with sticks.The police will arrest them when they come across them. In the second district, they will arrest three or two stalls every day, but they have never caught cheese sellers. It is said that cheese sellers with lottery tubes are not caught as a rule, and everyone has become a habit. What is the reason? I can't figure out what happened.Because Mr. Liang mentioned the sticky cheese box, so the author wrote this matter, it can be regarded as a little anecdote about it!

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