Chapter 13 eat in shanghai

Delicacies and Delicious Gathering in Shanghai When it comes to food, Beiping has been the capital of many generations of emperors, and the jade food above it is naturally collected and full of treasures.There is an old saying in China that you can eat in Guangzhou.The red cotton food, cooked in Yangcheng, is exquisite and exquisite, but the essence is the essence, but it is not called Bo.Since the opening of Shanghai as a port of trade, merchants from all over the world have gathered, there are foreign and Chinese places, rich and powerful families, and there are plenty of banknotes.But if you want to indulge your appetite, you don't care how much you spend, so the delicacies of all provinces in the country are gathered in Shanghai.It really has all kinds of beauty, as long as you are willing to spend money, you can say that you can have whatever you want.

The restaurants in Shanghai were originally dominated by the Hui Gang.Then Su Xikun and other counties formed a force, and there was the rise of the so-called local gangs.Later, people from northern Jiangsu came to Shanghai, and they saw more and more of them every day. The dishes of Huaiyang Gang were rewarded repeatedly when Emperor Qianlong went to the south of the Yangtze River three times. Huaiyang cuisine has long been famous all over the country and soon took root in Shanghai.As soon as the sea ban was lifted, the influence of Cantonese in Shanghai became stronger and stronger. Cantonese were the most united, and their food was pure and elegant, unlike the thick and greasy Shanghai-style Yangbang. After that, Cantonese restaurants sprung up like bamboo shoots after a spring rain; Instead, it came from behind.Before the Anti-Japanese War, and at the beginning of the Anti-Japanese War, Cantonese cuisine became the mainstream of Shanghai's food industry.As for the restaurants in the provinces of Sichuan, Hunan, Hubei, Fujian, Yunnan, Guizhou, Pingjin, and Shanxi provinces, although there are not many restaurants, although they have different styles, each has its own specialty dishes, which can also attract some gourmets.

Roasted Duck Foot Bun with Claypot Meat Rice Let’s talk about Cantonese cuisine first. Veteran Cantonese restaurants are considered to be the top three restaurants on Nanjing Road.Dasanyuan in Changdi, Guangdong was originally one of the top four restaurants in Guangzhou, and has long enjoyed a good reputation.The big three yuan in the Shanghai semicolon are all common dishes in Guangdong, and there are no special dishes.But if you are a real eater, you must order the rice bowl with wax flavor when you go to Dasanyuan, because the master chef of Dasanyuan is the first expert invited by Dongjiang. The meat is finely selected, strictly produced, salty and slightly sweet, It is sweet and fresh, unlike the so-called brand-name sausages in Taiwan, which are too sweet to be imported.The duck foot buns in his roasted meat are indeed a good product for drinking. The duck feet are fat and delicious, with a piece of fat meat in the middle, tied with marinated chicken and duck intestines, and they are sold at three o'clock every afternoon. It was sold out at once. Although there are some duck foot buns in Shanghai that sell Cantonese cured meat, no one can compare with Da Sanyuan.

Xinya on Nanjing Road is known as the roost in Shanghai for its clean environment.We often say that although the food in a restaurant is delicious, the kitchen cannot be seen. The kitchen of Xinya is different. Not only is it not afraid of people watching, but guests are welcome to visit.When Europeans and Americans come to Shanghai, they like to eat at Xinya, because they have seen the kitchen is so clean, they can eat without worrying about diarrhea.The characteristic of Xinya cuisine is that the oil used is relatively light. Northerners may not feel that the taste is strong enough, but it just suits the tastes of European and American international friends.Every time I go downstairs and upstairs at the entrance of the restaurant, I look up and see that there are more foreign ladies than Chinese.His small winter melon cup is the most praised by customers. The winter melon is only about the size of the Xiaoyu watermelon produced in Taiwan. It is fresh and tender, and it is thicker than the big winter melon.His fried salted white fish and chili sauce are sold in small dishes, which are the best side dishes.Guests who come to Xinya to eat, no matter Chinese or foreign, are always indispensable for these two high-quality and cheap dishes.

Hongmian Restaurant, opposite the Nanjing Theater on Aiduoya Road, is said to be the king of bamboo sticks in Cantonese cuisine.In fact, it depends on how you eat.A middle-aged newlywed couple went to Hongmian for a light meal and ordered a dry-roasted winter bamboo shoot. In front of the new wife, the husband wanted to show that he was good at eating, so he told the waiter that the more tender the winter bamboo shoot, the better.After eating, I looked at the bill, but I was dumbfounded. The price of this plate of dry roasted winter bamboo shoots was barely enough to pay the bill when the two of them emptied their pockets.When I asked the waiter why this dish was so expensive, the waiter immediately asked the kitchen to bring out two large baskets of winter bamboo shoots, all with the tips removed, and the couple had to pay the bill.In addition, the younger sister of a friend of the author and Mrs. Ru, after watching a movie at the Nanjing Grand Theater, went to the red cotton dinner. They asked for a small bowl of crab yellow wing soup. They thought it tasted good, and asked the waiter to order another one. The waiter had a look These two are rich eaters. At that time, they recommended abalone wrapping fins today, and they happily ordered a medium plate. It was indeed thick and flavorful, and the firework was just right, but when they finished eating, they paid the bill. It was not enough to pay, so I had to leave the gray coat as a deposit before going out.The author found out about this, so I specially invited two friends to have a drink at Hongmian, and chatted with the head accountant for a while, only to realize that they are definitely not werewolves when it comes to real diners. Maybe a little joke.I told them that this style of work has an impact on business.They listened to persuasion, and later actually changed this problem.To be honest, the Cantonese cuisine of Hongmian not only ranks first in Shanghai in terms of cooking skills, but also compares with Guangzhou and Hong Kong in terms of cooking skills.His head chef is from Taotao Restaurant in Guangzhou. He blindly rolls mandarin fish, which is really tender and smooth. There is a fishbone in the whole plate.Mr. Liang Junmo is a famous eater of Cantonese cuisine (Guangdong is called a gourmet). He said that although Cantonese cuisine is relatively light, dishes such as big abalone wings, whole snake soup, and dragon and tiger bucket are not understatement. It is greasy, thick but not sluggish, so it is the best choice, and Shanghai's red cotton can meet this condition.

Different flavors of delicacies Later, Yihong Restaurant opened at the Pike intersection of Nanjing Road. Although it is not a big restaurant, his restaurant has a variety of dishes, which attracts a lot of diners.The dish is roasted piglets, and the dim sum is soup dumplings.The so-called roasted piglets, the piglets used in his family are definitely suckling pigs.They have a pasture in Longhua. The pigs in his family are well-fed, and the feeding period is appropriate. The piglets are more authentic than other houses. The preparation and taste are also different from others.As for soup dumplings, they are made of flying bamboo noodles, which are as thin as paper and transparent inside and out. A pocket of stewed soup seems to have no fillings. In the small magnetic cups beside Bai Fei, there are three of them in each cup, white and green, it is beautiful to look at, let alone eat.For decades, I have only eaten this kind of delicacy in Yihong, and some restaurants in Guangdong don't even know the name.

In the Hongkou area, in the 16th and 17th years of the Republic of China, the market became more and more prosperous, and more and more hotels and restaurants were opened.Brothers Dong Zhongding and Shengfu, Director Secretary of the Tax Office, are both big eaters of Cantonese cuisine. The two brothers were happy and opened a beautiful restaurant in Hongkou. The red columns of the pavilions are clear and uncluttered, and the drinking and dining utensils are all made-to-order fine porcelain.Compared with the silver countertops of ordinary restaurants, it is vulgar and elegant.The palm-wing stew is Xiuse's signature dish.The material of the so-called palm wing stew is actually chicken and duck feet. First, fry the palm wings until golden in color, then cook them in a clay pot with broth ingredients until crispy. When serving, put them on a small alcohol stove, and there are a lot of feet Colloid, the more it is boiled, the more fragrant it will be. After eating, half a can of thick juice is left, which is used to stew tofu or boil yellow sprouts. It is an excellent side dish.Sometimes you can buy sheep's feet, and also sell sheep's feet pot.Because the ingredients are properly blended, not only does it have no smell, but it is rich and plump, which is the ultimate winter tonic.Chen Xiaoshi's legs and feet became weak in his later years. The famous doctor Zhang Jianzhai told him that it is best to eat stewed lamb's feet, and he will naturally walk as usual.However, people in the south of the Yangtze River are afraid of mutton, so they can only nourish themselves in the middle of winter, and the market for mutton is not prosperous on weekdays.Therefore, sheep's hooves may not be available every day. Whenever Xiu Se has sheep's hoofs, she always sends two pots to Chen Xiaoshuai's mansion.I heard that there is a restaurant in Taipei that occasionally sells sheep's trotters. It is said that it is a new invention of his family. In fact, sheep's trotters have been eaten as early as 40 years ago.

As soon as the beginning of winter arrives, the Cantonese Restaurant in Shanghai calls for the Winter Tonic Dragon Tiger Fighting Three Snakes Conference. Because my uncle has lived in Guangdong for decades, he has a special research on Cantonese cuisine.According to the results of his old man's tasting, Tao Tao Restaurant in Hongkou is the most genuine snake meat in Shanghai, and he does not play tricks.The Three Snakes Conference is three different poisonous snakes, one is called Guoshu Banyan, the other is called Jinjiadai, and the other is called Rice Spoon Head, which is specially used to treat damp heat and viciousness in the triple burner. Snakes can suddenly penetrate the upper, middle and lower triple energizers, although the piercing snake is only as thick as a thumb and more than two feet long.But the banquet of the All Snakes Conference is twice as expensive as that of the Three Snakes Conference.It is said that these kinds of poisonous snakes are all special products of Shiwanda Mountain in Guangxi. There is a so-called snake walking in Guangdong, which is the same as chicken and duck walking.As soon as the beginning of autumn, snake-hunting experts gang up into the mountains to catch snakes.The snake in the middle is the least, but in terms of healing, the snake in the middle must have the effect of the snake in the middle to be particularly effective.Therefore, no matter which family catches the Guanzhong snake, it must be distributed by the public.Inviting guests to eat a whole snake meeting is a glorious ceremony for the host. The author once participated in a whole snake meeting in Shanghai. The first thing was to eat snake gall wine. The waiter pierced four snake galls on a silver fork and a small silver plate. There is a silver needle with a handle and a small silver clip in the bag.Most of the glass of strong wine in front of each person is brandy. The waiter pricks the four snake galls with a needle, and puts a drop of each gall in the guest's wine glass. Finally, it is the host's turn to pierce exactly two drops of each gall. It dripped into the host's wine glass, so everyone applauded and toasted, and the host wanted to give a reward to the waiter at this time.The whole banquet, regardless of frying or frying, snake meat is indispensable in every dish. The snake meat is cooked like chicken shreds, and the cross-section of the eel can be seen to have texture, but the snake meat can't be seen at all.Finally, there is a giant silver tripod, a hodgepodge of shredded chicken, silk snake, shark's fin and abalone. Everyone can eat as much as possible.Dingli has all kinds of flavors, fresh is fresh, but it is too mixed, and there is no unique flavor. The snake party is over, and the host announces that everyone is invited to take a bath in Yude Pool of Xianshi Company.People always eat snakes, and everyone brings a change of underwear. Only the author, a big layman, didn't bring any, so I asked my family to send the underwear to the bathhouse.When I undressed and went to the pool, there were yellow sweat stains on the underarms and legs. It is said that this is the effect of eating whole snakes, and the rheumatism is evaporated from the sewage.So please eat the whole snake, and the owner must take a bath with it.The author felt timid because of eating whole snakes. Although it happened more than 40 years later, I still remember it clearly.

The pink fruit of Qihonglu There is a restaurant next to the Hongkou Ai Pu Luo Cinema called Qi Hong Lu, which was opened by a descendant of Li Zhanzhi, a biography of Enzheng Bingke in the 29th year of Guangxu. The number one scholar with Li Tongke was Wang Shoupeng, Li’s alias Xiaohong, so Wang Shoupeng gave him the restaurant It was named Qihonglu, and the door plaque was also written by the champion.It is said that his family's stewed beef spinal cord and Taishi frog were handed down by the Taishi Liang Dingfen in Nanhai.Qihonglu is most famous for its pink fruit.In any Guangdong restaurant, one cup and two pieces are small dishes and small cups, and the powdered fruits in Qihonglu alone are twelve pieces on a plate, and they are served on the table.The skin of the powder fruit is kneaded with sweet potato flour and orange flour. It is soft and refreshing, not wrinkled or cracked. The red stuffing is shrimp ham and carrots, and the green stuffing is snow peas with coriander puree.The black ones are mushrooms, and the yellow ones are chicken scallops.There is also a special technique for wrapping powdered fruit. The skin must be smooth and transparent, and the color must be well-proportioned. At first glance, a pink fruit looks like a green landscape.The one who makes the powdered fruit is Chen Sangu, a well-known Guangdong star.Even the special powdered fruit from the famous Ma Wuzhong's family in Guangzhou is still inferior to Chen Sangu.So everyone sat in a row and waited to eat the powdered fruit.The Guangdong Restaurant in Shanghai opened more and more later, and everyone only knows that it competes with each other in terms of decoration.The chefs invited were not experts, so naturally they couldn't produce any particularly outstanding dishes.Leaving Cantonese cuisine aside, let’s talk about local restaurants in Shanghai first.

When it comes to Shanghai’s local restaurants, the one that truly represents the flavor of the local restaurant is probably the Dexing restaurant in Shiliupu, Xiaodongmen.Because the restaurant is close to the fish and shrimp distribution market, all the seasonal dishes served with wine, such as blood cockles, fresh razor clams, live shrimp, and sea melon seeds, are fresher than other restaurants. Rich, crispy, moist and palatable Braised bald lungs in soy sauce, stir-fried circles, cherries in soy sauce, shrimp roe and black ginseng are delicious, rich and delicious, and really pure local flavor.There is a dish in his family, which is stewed pork intestines with garlic and garlic. Not only is it not dirty, but it melts in the mouth when it is heated, and it doesn’t take a bite. It is full of color, fragrance and taste.For this Shanghai dish, only the Dexing Restaurant is the best. The Laozhengxing Laoheji Kuiyuan Restaurant can't keep up with the Dexing Restaurant's rich and tasty dish.

Laozhengxing on Guangxi Road can be regarded as a veteran restaurant in Shanghai.His family's bad food is specially made by itself, so any dish that uses bad food is better than others.White sugar marinated herring, spring bamboo shoots and ham are all natural and delicious dishes that do not use MSG at all.The soups in restaurants in Shanghai are either marinated and fresh, or yellow soup with shredded pork, which is always too thick and greasy.Friends who know how to eat, in addition to big fish and meat, order him a goji berry egg drop soup, or a red amaranth soup with bad food, it is really light and refreshing, and the fat will disappear. Lao Hop Kee on Caishi Road is also a time-honored brand in Shanghai. It is not an authentic old Shanghai, so you will not patronize Hop Kee.Guichi Liu Gonglu is a well-known supporter in Shanghai, and he is also a diner.He said that Hop Kee has two specialty dishes, although the ingredients are very common, but no one except Hop Kee can make such a good taste.The gold and silver double brains in his family are smoked pig brains and fresh pig brains to remove blood streaks and thin tendons, then stew them with scallops and ginkgo fruits over a slow fire. one.Hop Kee raised several vegetable pigeons, and they got enough feed, so the pigeons were very fat.It is used to make oil-drenched squab, which is especially fat and tender.In the past, Mr. He Zhonghan loved pigeons the most. He said that if you don’t go to Tianxianglou to eat baked pigeons in Guangzhou, and don’t go to Hop Kee in Shanghai to eat fried pigeons, it would be a pity to miss such a delicious meal. Shanghai Continental Building, which was later changed to Cishu Building; there is also an old Zhengxing restaurant. In addition to the Ningshao Gang’s proper dishes such as boiled water, fried eel paste, flat pointed rotten clothes, and rock sugar yuancai, there is also a dish in his family that is steamed. Grass carp, wash the fresh fish, cut off the head and tail scales and fins, put a piece of cabbage leaf on the rice pot and steam, when the rice is steamed, the fish is also steamed, add shredded ginger and chopped green onion, season with light soy sauce (good soy sauce) on top , the fish is fresh and tender, with a faint fragrance of rice. It's easy to say and easy to do, but when we make it, it doesn't have the fragrance of others.His family also has a spicy dish made of urn vegetables (called rattan vegetables in Shanghai, also known as water spinach).Then order a stewed eel with pork belly and serve it with spicy dishes. If you are not a real diner, you will never order like this. There is a restaurant called Dafa near the Dazhonghua Hotel. It was originally a rice wine restaurant. Later, he invited the owner of the stove from Songhelou in Suzhou. Because of the loyalty of his colleagues, he was embarrassed to sell Songhelou’s famous three shrimp hot noodles ( The soy sauce made from shrimp brains and shrimp brains is called San Shrimp Oil) compared with Songhelou, but in the period when clear water shrimps were in abundance, he researched and sold shrimp brain soup noodles. , It is simply a bowl of white jade covered coral noodles, some people call him coral noodles.In addition, steamed wontons with vegetables and meat, and crab noodle soup dumplings when hairy crabs were on the market are even more famous.At one time, the author and a friend in the financial industry had a long room in the Dazhong Hotel. Chen Daoan, a famous piano player in Shanghai, and Chen Xiaotian, a famous player in Tsing Yi, were noisy because of Dafa. Our room ate shrimp brain noodles. At this time, Ni Hongyan was not yet married to Zheng Xiaoqiu. She wanted to learn Pingju Luoyuan from Chen Xiaotian.You said how effective the shrimp brain noodles are. The heat is just right Lao Zhengxing from the small garden on Guangxi Road, because of a disagreement with his partner, several masters opened the Continental Hotel again.Stir-fried peeled eel back with garlic, tender and crispy, tough but not wet, the heat is just right.Fried pork ribs was originally a very common dish, but his family eats both fried pork ribs, no matter it is hung with sweet and sour sauce, or sprinkled with salt and pepper, because the meat is carefully selected and the heat is used properly. Sergey.In Fengyuan, the seat of Taichung County, Taiwan, there is a provincial restaurant called Zuixiang. The fried ribs are famous all over Taiwan, and they are almost the same. The Tianxiang Building on Niuzhuang Road was originally the base of Huiguan, and later Ning Shao dishes were added. Wu Yaqin, the president of the Shanghai Ningbo Association, once specially invited me to eat ivory Bodhisattva.Even the name of the dish has never been heard before, so I went there happily and tasted it.This kind of fish has a big head and a small body, few thorns and tender meat, with prominent gills and protruding eyes.The skin of the fish will be peeled off as soon as it is peeled. It is mixed with onion, garlic and ginger wine and fried in a pan. The color of the fish is white and yellow, which is the same color as ivory, so it is called ivory Bodhisattva.This kind of dish can only be made in Tianxianglou and Louwailou in West Lake, and it is famous because it is rare and expensive.Since Tianxianglou is the foundation of Huiguan, the duck ravioli in his family is still served in a tin hot pot. In three or nine days, although there is little snow in Jiangsu and Zhejiang, the late arrival of ice and early cold can also make your hands and feet stiff; In addition to having a drink with three or five confidantes, come to a full serving of duck wontons. It is warm and comfortable, and it is really not inferior to eating shabu-shabu with a side stove. After the 20th year of the Republic of China, the residential area developed more and more towards the west of Shanghai, with skyscrapers and villas everywhere.The catering industry has the fastest brains. The Kunshan Ah Shuang Noodle Restaurant, which is famous for its duck noodles in clear soup in the Suchang area, first opened a branch on Ladu Road.His family's specialty dishes have all been moved to Shanghai, such as smoked fish noodles in red soup, soft tofu with shepherd's purse and shrimp, and fried bamboo shoots with apricots. The bamboo shoots are bamboo shoots that grow next to the ginkgo tree. Shanghai.As soon as the sweet-scented osmanthus is fragrant in the Mid-Autumn Festival in August, the duck noodles in clear soup will start to be sold.It is said that Ah Shuang’s family has a unique method of cooking duck. The old soup from the Shanghai branch is also shipped from Kunshan. As for the unique method of cooking duck, it is very confidential and will not be known to outsiders.Some people say that his family has a secret recipe for spices, which can remove the duck sting and increase the fragrance. Of course, the time and amount of spices are all particular. The ducks used by his family are not bought in Shanghai. Ordered by appointment, the streams in Kunshan area are criss-crossed, and the water is soft and soft. Except for the duckling period, the ducks spend all day in the green water of Qingbo, catching live food such as fish and shrimp. Kunshan is also a rice warehouse in the south of the Yangtze River, and it is usually rice bran and soybean skin A kind of nutritious feed. When the rice is harvested in July and August, put the ducks in the rice fields that have not yet been plowed, and eat the remaining grains in the fields. Aren’t the ducks strong and strong? The duck noodles in their house are characterized by crispy duck meat and Not thick, plump but refreshing, some people praise Ah Shuang Guan's clear soup duck noodles as one of the Chinese delicacies, which can be regarded as a word of taste. Wuxi boat dishes are famous all over the country Suxi cuisine is more delicate, but the sweetness is a little heavier. Wuxi restaurants in Shanghai belong to Shanjingyuan. , Looking around in the wind, I always feel that my interest is dull.In fact, his money chicken and sweet-scented osmanthus chestnut soup also have unique flavors, especially a beggar chicken. When the chicken is cooked, the waiter brings it and throws it on the ground on the spot. It is really fragrant and tender. There is really something to eat. Weiyang is a land of fish and rice, as well as a distribution center for Huai salt. The emperor Qing Gaozong, who was very good at enjoying himself, visited Yangzhou several times. Therefore, Yangzhou is famous for its exquisite food and beverages.Naturally, Yangzhou restaurants are also very popular in Shanghai. The old-fashioned restaurants include Laobanzhai and Xinbanzhai, and the new-style restaurants include Jingjing, Slender West Lake, and Luyang (Tun+Yi). Yangzhou is the most particular about eating dried shredded meat. Of course, Shanghai can’t eat meat with jade belt hooks, pink mandarin ducks, and sky lantern sticks. Even the dried shredded silk is only mixed and boiled. Generally not bad, as for the general dishes, there are no more than fish lips with crab powder, steamed meat with lotus leaf powder, roasted big black ginseng with shrimp roe, boiled crucian carp with shredded radish, etc., which are rich in flavor and juicy, making it a feast for the eyes.Although Jingjiao is a new-style canteen, its jujube paste pot cake and jadeite siu mai desserts are two flavors, one is light yellow with purple, crispy and fragrant.One is jasper melting paste, fresh and fragrant, pure Hanjiang flavor.Slender West Lake’s Zhan Yi Chuan Yun (boneless chicken wings with a piece of cloud legs, it is said that Ruan Yuan taught chefs to make it in Yangzhou back then.) Poor stewed double palms (goose feet and duck feet) are all popular signature dishes.As soon as the winter solstice arrives in Lvyang (Tun+Yi), wild ducks are added to cook rice. The original clay pot, once the lid is lifted, the food is hot and fragrant, thick and crisp, which is unparalleled.I heard that wild duck fragrant japonica rice was shipped from Yangzhou, and the cook of wild duck rice was also a cook of a salt official. Every winter, she was hired to make wild duck rice in Luyang Village, Shanghai. At the end of the year, the stove was closed, and she returned to Yangzhou for the New Year. See you next winter. Yangzhou Pork Fast Meat is Superior The most famous dish in Yangzhou is lion's head. We call it lion's head, and the locals call it pork. Although Yangzhou's pork is not served at banquets, this dish is very particular.It is said that the ribs must be selected for pork, and the front and rear legs cannot be used.The meat needs to be cut into small cubes with great patience, just chop a few knives. This is what we all know, to make lion heads should be finely chopped and roughly chopped.For laymen, cut the meat and place it on the chopping board, hold two knives like beating drums, and move the knives like rain, this will chop off all the essence of the meat, and the rest will be the dregs of the meat.That's why some gourmet experts don't eat meat with thousands of knives.Chop the meat well, slightly use dilute gorgon powder, and pinch it into meatballs. It is best not to use egg whites or minced water chestnuts. Just move the meatballs into a slightly round shape without falling apart. Do not pinch them hard, and then use big green vegetables Wrapped with leaves, each catty of meat can be divided into four or six, too big or too small is not suitable.It is best to use a pottery stuffed bowl. The bottom of the bowl is first covered with meat skin with clean hairy roots, then put scallops, mushrooms, edamame, winter bamboo shoots or spring bamboo shoots, green vegetables, wind chicken, ginger, green onions, sugar, wine, and boiled with salt. Teriyaki with soy sauce.For real gourmets, boiled cabbage is the top choice, because the braised soy sauce is the autumn soy sauce (high-grade soy sauce) selected by the ancient method of Yangzhou Simei Sauce Garden. After eating, the bottom of the cabbage core always has a sour taste.There is also a trick to put the meat into the bowl. The noodles in the bowl should be placed flat and not overlapped, otherwise the tenderness will be uneven.The mouth of the pottery bowl is not too tight. Cover the bowl with a damp cloth to avoid air loss. It is best to use a large charcoal base to simmer the meat. The firepower is long-lasting and even. After six to eight hours, even the bowl is on the table. This is the lion's head that is tender, fragrant, plump, oily but not greasy.As for later, someone came up with a new way of making lion's head and added crab powder. Although the fresh ingredients were added, the crab was delicious and the original taste was not obvious. It was really not a lesson. One year the author went to Yangzhou to attend a conference.On the return trip, Wang Shaotang, a famous storyteller in Yangzhou, was invited to Shanghai Dazhonghua Bookstore to talk about the Water Margin. Wang Shaotang talked about the Water Margin in Yangzhou. Their dresses, voices and smiles are never the same.You can tell who's coming out with just one mouthful.After one season of books, there are still a few articles left.Before he left, he must treat me to real Yangzhou pork.After the meat is ready, send it to the room of the Dazhong Hotel to eat.This is the most authentic meal of pork that the author has ever eaten. It is smooth, fragrant and tender, which is really unprecedented.Later I found out that this lion head was the masterpiece of a cook who specializes in cutting meat in the Lianghuai Salt Transport Envoy Yamen.Unexpectedly, the best cut meat is not in Yangzhou but in Shanghai. Before the Anti-Japanese War, although Shanghai said that chariots and spokes gathered in all directions, most of them were people from Jiangsu and Zhejiang. Living in the rear for a long time, he is used to spicy food, and the Sichuan baby born in the rear does not eat without chili, which makes restaurants in Sichuan, Hunan, Yunnan and Guizhou provinces popular everywhere, and become a thriving restaurant.At that time, Shuyu on Guangxi Road in Shanghai was famous for steamed steamed rice dumplings with flour, steamed fat intestines with flour, steamed beef with flour, and it was suitable for both wine and rice.Mr. Ye Chuyi was in Shanghai when he had a drink with good friends, and he liked Shuyu the most, especially his dry-stir-fried green beans. After the reputation of Mr. Ye Chuyu, Shuyu's business became more and more popular. Chengdu snacks are a good place for Liu Ling's addiction, because his family has a special variety of side dishes for drinking.Although Lin Changmin and Lin Gengbai were both affiliated to Fujian, they are both frequent customers of Chengdu snacks. Lin Changmin often said that the best place to eat Western food is the Beijing Han Canteen. There are twenty or twenty kinds of snacks. Enough is enough.If you want to eat Chinese food, it is best to eat Shanghai Chengdu snacks. He asked him to order ten or eight small dishes. At the end, he had a bowl of red oil to copy his hands, and two or three friends had a drink.The above two Sichuan dishes are mainly snacks, which can accommodate banquets. There is also a Gu Yixuan, which is elegantly furnished and equipped. style.In fact, it is not very clever when it comes to banquets, but there are a few special dishes that are really fascinating.The stewed bullwhip is sealed in a casserole, stewed on low heat, and the onion is stewed with salt and wine. It is purely stewed. The bullwhip is stewed until it is almost melted, and then it is uncovered and served on the table. Various seasonings are listed, which are prepared by the guests themselves. , so mellow and fragrant, plump but not greasy.In winter, most of the guests who go to Gu Yixuan will order a stewed bullwhip whether they have a big banquet or a drink. Yunnan Famous Dish Steam Pot Chicken Although the taste of Yunnan cuisine is similar to that of Sichuan, it is not as spicy as Sichuan cuisine.There are many mountains in Yunnan, so there are a lot of things like mushrooms.Although the mushrooms outside of Zhangjiakou are the best flavor-enhancing products, Yunnan morels and chicken palmetto mushrooms are not inferior to the mushrooms in their deliciousness. In addition, the cloud legs are famous for their freshness, so Yunnan cuisine is comparable to other provinces. , should be included in the selection.There was also a Jinbi Garden in Shanghai back then. It was named after the Jade Rooster and Golden Horse. It is not known whether it is the same as the Jinbi Garden in Taipei.In terms of major dishes, steam pot chicken and tempeh fish are all unique. This kind of steam pot is made of clay.The chicken is completely steamed with steam, the soup is clear and delicious, and of course it is delicious. It has been imitated by Taiwan Industrial and Mining Company and Kinmen Ceramics Factory.The head chef of Jinbi Garden is said to have worked in Nie Yuntai’s house. He is a top-notch Yunnan cook. The steam pots used in his family are all made in Yunnan. Leng was brought from Yunnan to Shanghai. His steam pot chicken is of course It's different from others.There is also a dish that goes with wine, which is dry beef. The selected beef is marinated in autumn rice wine for two days and dried. , with sweet and sour juice, it is also suitable for both wine and rice in Yunnan, a unique side dish.The so-called Bridge Rice Noodles, now the Yunnan Pavilion in Taipei is calling for all kinds of rice noodles. Although Jinbiwei in Shanghai also has Bridge Rice Noodles, not many people eat them.On the other hand, the broken crispy buns are made in a special way. The outer skin of the buns is crispy, which is very popular among diners.As for the large thin slices in the cold bowl of the Yunnan Pavilion, although they are crispy and not greasy, there were no large thin slices for sale in Jinbi Garden back then. I heard that this dish is a snack in General Li Mi’s hometown, because in Yunnan, large thin slices belong to Zhuanghu cuisine ( Rural vegetables) are not served at banquets, so in the past, Yunnan restaurants rarely prepared such dishes. Matt Hester Road is a residential area in Shanghai, and there is a Hubei-style family restaurant called Xiaopu.One day I chatted with Chen Guangzu, the former director of the General Office of the Wuhan Appeasement Administration. The author said that there are restaurants in all provinces in Shanghai, but if you want to eat Wuchang Qianji beef and soup paste bean shreds, you can't eat it.Although Chen Shuoqian Kee can't eat beef, there is a soup paste bean shreds, which is quite standard.Call now and ask him to prepare, and I will find you to eat tomorrow night.This restaurant has no facade, it is a Shikumen residence on the third floor and the bottom.Although there is a door lamp with the word "Xiaopu" painted on it at the door, if it is not for the guidance of an acquaintance, no one will pay attention.The female boss is a student of Brother Guang. If she is happy to meet her, she will also cook two kinds of homemade dishes from Hubei.What we ate that day were pearl balls, steamed chicken, fish tofu, and bean paste in soup.Tofu with fish offal is originally a home-cooked dish in Hubei, but the offal fish must be selected carefully, and it must be made with fire, and the bean curd with soup paste is a specialty of Hubei Province.Some people say that vermicelli from Longkou, Shandong, dried shredded silk from Yangzhou, Jiangsu, and bean shredded rice from Wuchang, Hubei, all have local characteristics and cannot be imitated by others.Xiaopu's soup paste bean shreds is of course delicious.It's a pity that I ate it twice. The owner's family moved to France to settle down. It is difficult to find a good place to eat Hubei cuisine in Shanghai. Shanghai Erxianju The Shandong Pavilion in Shanghai (called Beiping Pavilion in Shanghai) is the worst.Among the ten people at Tangkouer, I couldn’t pick out one or two who really spoke Mandarin, and most of them were from Hebei counties or other provinces.There is always a red tablecloth on the table, whether it is dry or wet, it smells of oil.The fellow villagers in Peiping are too lazy to take care of them, so people from other provinces naturally go less, and the restaurants in other provinces are changing with each passing day, with new designs.Only the North Pavilion sticks to the rules and remains unchanged.Therefore, in the heyday of the catering industry in Shanghai, there were only three or four supporting scenes of Daya Building, Longevity Hill, and Summer Palace.On the other hand, there is a teaching hall on Shilu called Erxianju, which is very popular. Not only the old customers in Pingjin and the friends from the Liyuan line who came to Shanghai to sing operas in the north, they all like to go to Erxianju for a drink. There are also many people who want to change their taste.The shopkeeper of Erxianju, named Liu Wenlian, made an appointment from Tonghexuan in Beiping. Braised mutton strips, deep-fried shrimp slices, pot-roasted chicken, especially shredded chicken, and vermicelli are also made by yourself. Can you tell me something Son, let him cut it thin and chop it narrow, and when it is served, it is really crystal clear, like jade, and it is really pure Peking flavor.Compared with Lapi in Taiwan, it is really a heaven and an underground. Although there are many restaurants in Shanghai from the north to the south, from the west to the west, the food stalls like Taipei Circle are really delicious. The original beef soup in the small alley next to the Changxing Hotel only buys two barrels of 53-gallon gasoline barrels every day, and the two barrels are sold out. Please come early tomorrow.The meat is tender and the soup is fresh, never refill the water.I really came from Huxi early in the morning to buy beef soup. There is a little Shaoxing on Caishi Road, Nanyang Bridge, which specializes in chicken porridge, beef porridge, and frog porridge. Their porridge is different from Cantonese porridge.Cantonese porridge is fish fillet, waist, belly, liver, sausage and other porridge ingredients, prepared with ginger and spring onions, and when the porridge is rolled into a pot, it is the so-called lu porridge in Guangdong.The rice used to cook porridge in Xiao Shaoxing must be new rice, and absolutely no old rice is used. It is not only thick and moderately smooth and delicious, but also has a tangy rice aroma that increases appetite.All the porridge ingredients are cooked until the porridge is cooked, then the fish is seasoned, boiled until it tastes good, and then it is cooked, which is the so-called porridge in Guangdong.Every morning market, it can be said that it is really overwhelming. At the corner of Majestic Theater on Aiwenyi Road, there is a stall that sells big meat buns, which are neither steamed dumplings nor soup dumplings.The steamed stuffed buns are one size bigger than Tianjin Goubuli's, and the face is white and loose, never sticking to the teeth.Pure meat filling, loose but not stagnant, thick marinade, delicious filling, from early morning to ten in the morning, about 2,000 meat buns were sold out and closed.The diners are lined up in a long queue, waiting for the new hot buns to come out of the cage.Next to the stall, there are neither tables nor stools. Unless you buy something to eat, you have to stand and wait for food.Later, some friendly people also tasted it, and more and more people joined the crowd to wait for the buns.At that time, Hu Bijiang, the general manager of Central South Bank, was a regular customer at the stall, and he often stopped by and got off to eat a few steamed buns before going to work.He thinks that Huaicheng soup dumplings are beautiful, but unfortunately they are a little too thick and greasy, but the steamed buns at this stall are suitable for thick and light, and after eating steamed buns, he never gets thirsty immediately, which shows that his steamed stuffed buns are fresh from the source, not relying on food. MSG for seasoning.The business of this stall was booming until the victory of the Anti-Japanese War, and of course it also made a few pennies.I heard that within a few days after the communists occupied Shanghai, they gave the steamed stuffed buns to Struggle for liquidation. Oxtail soup rich and mellow Near the Baxianqiao Golden Theater, there is a small restaurant called Yellow Light Bulb, which is known to all Shanghai diners.His oxtail soup is divided into two types, skinned and peeled. There are many pieces of oxtail in each bowl of soup. The juice is thick and mellow, and the oxtail is crispy and rotten. .Fried chicken drumsticks and short ribs, golden and crispy, served with Italian battered garlic bread, it can be said to be delicious. At the entrance of Nanyang New Village on Seymour Road, there is a Guangdong Ashi who sells crispy wontons. His wontons are not only crispy, but also crispy.It is crisp and delicious in the mouth, and has a unique flavor, but I still can't find out how he does it.Li Jinfa, a famous Shanghai sculptor, especially appreciates Ash’s crispy wontons.Whenever the mind is not in the right place and the wrist is out of control, I go to Ash's to eat a bowl of crispy wontons, and then pick up the knife and chisel, as if the spirit is so strong that it is handy and suitable for everyone.Jiang Xiaoyue joked about Li Jinfa, saying that Ash's wonton was the source of Li Jinfa's inspiration, and Li did not deny Xiaoyao's statement.Later, Li's students became Shi's frequent visitors, all looking for inspiration.It can be regarded as a good story in the art world. Since Shanghai is an international commercial port, Shanghai has become a large distribution area for ladies from Europe, America, and Australia who come to China.So all kinds of western restaurants came into being.從前陰溝博士李祖發，美術大師江小鶼，都是留法的美食專家，他們說華懋、匯中、百老匯，建築可都富麗堂皇，力叉器皿更是奇矞璀璨，迷離耀彩，憑窗品茗，欣賞一下過往的行人，或者眺望黃浦的朝陽夕暉，流雲墜霧的景色，倒是絕妙場所，談到菜餚，可實在沒有什麼足以稱道的地方。至於都城、國際，環顧左右的綺袖丹裳，雲髻蛾眉，的確繽紛馥郁，綽約多姿。逢到盛大筵宴，以至白色耶誕大菜，也不過是排場闊綽而已。祗有靜安寺路的大華飯店，（就是總統蔣公跟夫人結婚的地方）廚房的主廚，一位是從馬賽重金禮聘，一位是羅馬名庖，做出來的法國菜、義大利菜都是超水準的。可惜這家飯店開了不久，就忽然停歇，一部份改成美琪電影院啦。 西餐館的拿手好菜 上海有些場面不大，佈置幽靜的中小型的西餐館，也各有各的拿手菜。像格羅布路的碧羅飯店的鐵扒比目魚，忌司煎小牛肉，可以說全上海西菜館，都做不出來。霞飛路DDS咖啡固然芬芳濃郁，非常著名，洋蔥檸檬汁串燒羊肉，凡是北方梨園行名角，應約到上海登台，跟常春恆立恆有交情的，他們都請到DDS吃一頓串燒羊肉，讓平津老鄉嘗嘗外國烤肉滋味如何。北平唱武生的吳彥衡，（老伶工吳彩霞的獨子）在梨園行是有名的大飯量。他到上海常氏弟兄請吃DDS串燒羊肉，一口氣吃了二十三串。您說驚人不驚人。也給DDS創下破天荒的記錄。靜安寺路愛儷園首右，有兩家德國飯店，一家叫大來，一家叫來喜，都是以賣丹麥原桶啤酒，德國黑啤酒出名的。在上海喝黑啤酒，差不多全是到來喜大來兩家去。來喜掌櫃的是個肥佬。大來是個肥婆。客人一進門，他們最歡迎客人跟他賭骰子，骰子是羊皮做的，有山核桃大小，賭法很簡單，兩隻骰子，各擲一把，比點大小。客人贏了，白喝一大杯黑啤酒，客人輸了。喝酒給錢。所以這兩家飯店經常是座上客常滿，樽中酒不空。這兩家都以鹽水豬腳出名，人家豬腳白碩瑩澈，收拾得一點毛根都沒有，用來配黑啤酒，確實有風味。筆者最愛吃他們的紅菜頭雞肉粉紅色沙拉。上海名畫家吳湖帆也有好，他說他們的沙拉如紅梅得雪，珊瑚凝霜，不愧是色香味三者俱全的下酒雋品也。 虹口有一家吉美飯店後來因為營業鼎盛，在南京東路靠近外灘又開了家分店，店裡完全採取西歐鄉村小飯店式佈置，木質桌椅，一律白皮，不加油飾。客人一進門就有一種清超脫俗，耳目一新的感覺。最奇怪的是他家的淨素西餐做的特別拿手，可見當時旅滬外僑茹素的人數，一定也不少。上海聞人，人稱關老爺炯之，是虔誠佛教徒，上海功德林素菜館，就是關老爺大力支持的，有時功德林吃膩了，想換換口味，就到虹口吉美吃一頓素西餐。舍親李栩厂兄弟三人，自幼持齋，跟關老爺都是上海素食專家，有一天我們一同到吉美午飯。他們吃素西餐，我也捨葷而素，一客黃豆絨湯，一客芋泥做的炸板魚，營養豐富不說，不油不膩而且特別鮮美。後來筆者也成了吉美座上素食常客啦。 亞爾培路有一個純法國式叫紅房子的西餐館，他家的法國紅酒原盅炆子雞，羊肉捲餅，百合蒜泥焗鮮蛤蜊，都是祗此一家的招牌菜。因為他家佈置的絢麗柔美，而且幽靜無嘩，所以上海名媛在交際場合風頭最健的像周淑蘋、陳皓明、殷明珠、傅文豪、唐瑛、盛三都是紅房子的常客。陳皓明是駐德大使陳蔗青的掌珠，周椒蘋是郵票大王周今覺的愛女，有一天兩人在跑馬廳賭馬師陳文楚香檳大賽，能否入圍，結果陳皓明賭輸，賭注是凡是當晚在紅房子就餐的仕女，由輸家出資奉送紅酒原盅炆雞一份。筆者碰巧那天也在紅房子吃晚飯，獲贈炆雞一份。吃完付錢才知是陳皓明所贈，雅人雅謔，到現在想起來，還覺得美人之貽，其味醰醰呢。 南京路虞洽卿路口有一家晉隆飲店，雖然也是寧波廚師，跟一品香、大西洋，同屬於中國式的西菜。可是他家頭腦靈活，對於菜餚能夠花樣翻新，一隻金必多濃湯，是拿魚翅雞茸做的，上海獨多前清的遺老遺少，舊式富商鉅賈，吃這種西菜，當然比吃血淋淋的牛排對胃口，彼時上海花事尚在如火如荼，什麼花國總統肖紅，富春樓六孃小林黛玉正都紅得發紫，一般豪客，吃西菜而又要叫堂差，那就都離不開晉隆飯店了。到了大閘蟹上市，有一隻時菜忌司炸蟹蓋，把蟹蒸好，剔出膏肉，放在蟹蓋裡，灑上一層厚厚的忌司粉，放進烤箱烤熟了吃，不但省了自己動手剝剔，而蟹的鮮味完全保持，愛吃螃蟹的老饕，真可大快朵頤。最初西餐館祗有白色洋醋，吃蟹而沾白醋，實在大煞風景，於是晉隆茶房領班，遇到會吃闊客，就奉上特製私房高醋，說穿了不過是鎮江香醋，臨時擠點薑汁兌上而已。您想人家如此奉承顧客，您小帳能少給嗎。聽說晉隆的炸蟹蓋，是當年袁三公子寒雲親自指點，研究出來的。由此可見吃過見過的人，想出來花樣，畢竟不凡。 此外西摩路口飛達西點店的奶油栗子蛋糕鬆散不滯，香甜適口，跟北平擷英奶油栗子粉，都是能夠令人回味的西點。赫德路電車站轉角，有一家愛的爾麵包房每天下午茶時間出爐的雞派更是一批出爐一搶而光茶餘名點。 至於邁而西愛路柏斯馨白蘭地三層奶油蛋糕，海格路義大利總會的核桃椰子泥雪糕，永安公司七重天的七彩聖代，跑馬廳美心冰室奶泡冰淇淋都是馳譽全滬，膾炙人口的糕點冷飲。勝利還都，筆者在上海；曾經停留將近兩個月，正當大閘蟹上市。除了在老晉隆吃過一次炸蟹蓋外，其餘餐館飯店有的停歇改業，有的換了招牌，幾家寧紹幫的飯店，雖然仍舊勉強維持，但是叫幾隻小菜，端上來也都似是而非。滬西幾家西餐館，連房舍都找不著啦。目前大陸陷落三十年，究竟上海成了什麼樣的人間地獄，簡直連想都不敢想了。還談什麼飫甘饜美。以上所寫，都是四十年前滬江往事，全憑記憶，誤漏在所難免，希望邦人君子，多加指正。 元瑜附啟 唐魯孫先生以前在時報登過一長稿叫作吃在北平把北平的大飯莊以及小館子差不離全一網打盡。曾有幾位讀者去函要跟他學手藝，也有一家台北的大餐廳要請他當顧問。今天他又露了一手兒，把上海的中西餐廳，西點，以及街頭的名攤販做了一個綜合報告。以北平人來說上海似乎出了範圍，好在上海十里洋場，各地的人全有。北平人如有漏述勢所難免，更盼上海人來補充。我在唐公這篇洋洋灑灑的大文之後，添上幾句，不叫做以附驥尾，而是狗尾續貂。