Chapter 49 life's last wisdom

The first thing to do when you return to Amman is to visit the tomb of the former king Hu Sheng. Originally, modern political figures were not the objects of my search, but after arriving in Jordan, I increasingly felt the need to make an exception. Almost everyone is remembering him with the most pious language.There is a young lady in our team who bought a badge of his in a gift shop and put it on her chest. She just wanted to make a small commemoration, but she was seen by a policeman protecting us. This tall young man He was so moved that he didn't know what to do, so he immediately took off the police badge from his hat and gave it to the lady. First, he thanked the Chinese lady for respecting their great man, and second, he wanted to use his own police badge to defend the country's badge. He knew that the king's badge would soon be Do international travel.

They said that when the king was critically ill and flew back to the motherland from the United States, tens of thousands of ordinary people greeted him at the gate of the hospital. It was raining and no one held an umbrella. On the day of his funeral, the leaders of many countries came one after another. The current president and several retired presidents of the United States all came. Yeltsin, who was seriously ill, also tried his best to come. It was raining again, and no foreign head of state used an umbrella. After the funeral, the whole country mourned for forty days. The TV station canceled all programs and recited the Koran and prayed for him.

People respect him for a reason.Jordan, a small country, can only survive in the cracks in the complex and changeable Middle East.You have to look at anyone's face, and you have to listen to everyone's voice. If you want to be tough, you have no capital, and if you want to be soft, how can you stand up? It's really difficult. A big country has its own difficulties, but compared with a small country that can be swallowed up overnight with a little effort, it doesn't have too many worries.King Hu Sheng understands this. Over the years, he has used flexible political tactics, not stubborn, narrow, extreme, clumsy, or sticky.It can be said that he is good at dancing with long sleeves, but there is still a subject and soul behind his long sleeves. People gradually see that his colorful movements sincerely point to the process of peace and the well-being of the people, so it has become a kind of rationality in this region. balancer.

This kind of role can be made small or big. With his educational background and communication skills, he makes this kind of role come to the center of the international stage time and time again.As a result, countries all over the world frowned deeply on this region, and he and Jordan became a bridge instead.This makes him important from being weak, being aided because of being important, and becoming safe because of being important. I have climbed to the ancient castle in the center of Amman twice to have a bird's-eye view, and I have also traveled north to Jerasi to admire the impressive Roman Forum. I know that this country has always been a channel for external forces to come and go before the founding of the country.The little monarch in the valley must practice all kinds of skills to barely protect the country and the people.I don't know much about local history, but traces of this skill can be found from the remains of the mountain, and King Hu Sheng is a master of the wisdom of alchemists.If you want to select the great politicians of small countries since the 20th century, he will definitely be among the best.

Long before we didn't know where Jordan was, we had already heard King Hussein of Jordan on international news broadcasts.This term has almost become a term of modern international relations, and its meaning goes far beyond a certain individual in a certain country.This is exactly why I have to visit the mausoleum. The mausoleum is in the palace, and the palace is not a historic site but the real office of the head of state, so it has to go through layers of guards.Finally, I arrived in front of a courtyard wall. When I entered, I saw a white house, which was small and simple. I thought it should not be Hu Sheng’s mausoleum, maybe it was a gatehouse or a guard office?When I asked, it was the mausoleum of Hu Sheng's grandfather, the old king.Inside the room was a white sarcophagus covered with a curtain embroidered with words from the Koran, and there were two copies of the Koran on a wooden frame in the corner, and nothing else.I tiptoed out and asked where Hu Sheng’s own tomb was. I was prepared to climb the hundreds of steps with the most pious steps and face the solemn guard of honor with the most respectful eyes, but something unbelievable happened.

Just outside the gate of his grandfather's mausoleum, there is a sandy area of ​​only two square meters, surrounded by a small circle of white stones, with a cloth tent on it, and no one guards it. The guide said that this is King Hu Sheng's mausoleum. Both Chen Luyu and I were stunned, staring into the eyes of the guide for a long time, waiting for him to say that he was joking just now.When we knew it was not a joke, we asked if it was temporary, and the answer was no, so we had to move forward lightly. The sand is just sand, not a single piece of grass, and the area is only the size of a person lying down.Instead of a guard, there is a thin rope drawn on several thin wooden sticks.The most astonishing thing is that there are no tombstones and epitaphs, and the entire mausoleum does not contain a word, as if there is no color, no steps, no pavilions, and no soldiers.

I don't think this matter can be explained by hardship and simplicity.King Hu Sheng did not reject luxury during his lifetime, but made the end of his life pure and halal.I have always believed that how to deal with one's own tomb reflects the last wisdom of a generation of heroes.King Hussein did not give up this wisdom, and made a summary of his beliefs in a clear and humorous way, without fear and without sound. Accompanying us this time was Mr. Ma Xuehai, a Chinese student studying Islam at the University of Jordan. He said, let's stand at attention and pray to him.We stood in front of that square of sand, with our hands raised up on our chests, and listened to the pony recite the opening chapters of the Koran in Arabic.I silently recited in my heart: King, I didn't expect you to rest in such a way, please accept the respect of a Chinese who came from thousands of miles away.

On November 8, 1999, returned to Amman and stayed at the Arwad Hotel