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Chapter 67 Chinese lights up for him

Millennium sigh 余秋雨 1861Words 2023-02-05
Ever since I stumbled upon the first and second pages of Iranian history in Hamadan, I have been looking south. I firmly deny that the soul of Persian civilization is in Tehran or Isfahan, even though these places have been most prosperous and important in recent centuries.The spirit of Persian civilization must still be wandering in the area of ​​Persepolis and Shiraz. It has not moved for more than two thousand years, wandering in the mountains and deserts, wandering in the afterglow of the broken walls.It has no reason to move and no sign of it moving. Therefore, today I set off from Isfahan to the south, feeling urgent.I know that more than two thousand years will not leave anything too complete, so it doesn't matter, as long as I stop at that place.

The journey is very long, and a large part of it is still a steep mountain road.How can those lonely ruins be found?There are almost no English road signs here, and it seems that experts from the Iranian news, cultural and tourism departments must be invited to lead the way.They happened to be happy too, so a van led the way, followed by our convoy. But after driving for a while, all of us became impatient, and the speed was 60 kilometers per hour. Where is our speed?I rushed forward to stop them for discussion. They said that the mountain road was too dangerous, and the traffic department had warned me that the speed limit must be limited.We said that at such a speed, we can only reach our destination in the middle of the night. Wouldn’t it be more dangerous to drive on the mountain late at night?They thought it was reasonable, and were moved by our eagerness to see the relics of their nation that had been neglected for a long time. They decided to speed up to 80 kilometers per hour, with a sense of tragedy in their expressions.

After driving like this for a while, it was still not right. We overtook them again and stopped them, saying that the fines from the traffic department will be paid by us, and your car should follow us, as long as one person leads the way to our first car.These experts looked at us with strange expressions, and they were all willing to lead the way in our car. We only invited one to get on the car, and then rushed out with a speed of 120 kilometers per hour.It can be seen that the van behind us hesitated for a while, and then followed, but deliberately kept a distance. In this way, we passed an unknown number of vehicles, going uphill for a while, and downhill for a while. Sitting on it was like taking an old-fashioned elevator back then, and the middle cavity was itchy and trembling.I drove until the sky was full of sunset and the gasoline was about to run out, so I turned into a mountain gas station to refuel.The van following us took advantage of this moment to sneak ahead to perform the leading mission, but none of us noticed.

Shortly after filling up and hitting the road, we saw it at a fork in the road, and couldn't help being taken aback.Did it fly over our heads to get here first?They smiled, but solemnly pointed to the sidewalk and said: Here is the mausoleum of Cyrus the Great. This sentence was deafening to me.Regardless of the reason why they were ahead, they hurriedly urged the convoy to turn to the side road and drive forward.He pushed open the car door and jumped down, and no one made a sound. At this time, the sun had just sunk into the earth, and the western sky was full of amber red. There was only one stone building in front of the plain for thousands of miles.It is about eight meters high and six meters square. It is made of gray-brown boulders. Due to the backlight, it cannot be seen clearly, but it is overwhelming.

Approaching quickly, I saw a stepped pedestal below, and a coffin chamber above it with a small door. The structure of the entire mausoleum has not been dismantled, but the big stone has long been worn out, round and uneven. Except for this small stone building, there is nothing around. I don't know if anyone still thinks of it by chance and turns into the side road to have a look? But, that's what we're here for.Lying here is the true founder of the Persian Empire, the great politician of ancient Asia, Julius the Great.His courage and courage, the size of the empire he ruled, and his talent in military campaigns and administrative management cannot be said to be comparable to anyone throughout the ages, but there are indeed not many people who can compare.

In the northeast of the mausoleum, there is his palace ruins, of course, it has long been a broken stone pillar.We walked in the dark to the palace where he received foreign guests. It was a bit difficult to walk up and down. The local cultural official pointed me to a stone tablet, on which was written in ancient Persian: I, Cyrus the Great, King of Kings, was ordered to free all enslaved people I think he has at least partly done it.After he conquered Babylon, he released the Jews who were taken captive by Nebuchadnezzar, returned all the gold and silver sacrificial vessels that belonged to them, and encouraged them to return to Jerusalem to rebuild the temple; The statues of gods were returned to the city-states, and the beliefs of Babylon itself were extremely respected, and the last monarch of Babylon was also tolerant and preferential treatment.

He liked expeditions, but at that time many countries surrendered to him mainly because of his political tolerance. So I asked every headlight in the convoy to shine this way so we could get a few more shots.Today, we Chinese light the lamp for him.Only then did I understand why we rushed forward so recklessly on the dangerous road on the plateau today as if possessed by a demon. It turned out that a mysterious force was calling.If it was later, even the afterglow of the setting sun would disappear, and it would be impossible for the convoy to turn to this fork road again.Now it's pitch black, only our headlights are on, pointing to the thousand-year-old acupuncture points on the Iranian plateau.

The headlights of the car turned to shine on me, and the camera turned on the lights. The Iranian experts who guided us were standing in front of me. I said something to the camera, to the effect: If history is like a stage, then All kinds of people on stage will eventually be divided into protagonists and supporting roles, and the protagonists will always be very few; we came here in the dark only because there was a real protagonist standing here. November 26, 1999, Shiraz, staying at Homa Hotel
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