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Chapter 92 Clay figurines in front of the wheel in Nepal

Millennium sigh 余秋雨 1700Words 2023-02-05
From India to the entry and exit of Nepal, it took a full seven and a half hours to go through the formalities. Each border has a different scene.It is also India, which shows its national prestige at the border with Pakistan, but it is different from Nepal. It is quite casual to come and go, but it is hard for people in our third country. This is a crowded street with a lot of vendors.On the west side of the road across the sewage pond and garbage dump, there is a row of grocery stores and oil cake stalls. Next to one of the grocery stores is a dilapidated concrete building, similar to the public telephone sheds in some urban workers' residential areas in China more than 20 years ago. It reads in colorful English words: Immigration Department of India.A few steps past there is another shed, which is a little smaller, and it says, Indian Customs.

It was a bit difficult to get in because there were two grown men urinating on the customs wall and a family eating on the ground in front of the immigration office.I took a look at the scene of the family eating: there were a few slices of bought oil cakes on the torn newspaper that I had just picked up. Adults and children tore off a corner with their hands, and stuffed it into their mouths with a pinch of curry.The place is so narrow that you have to step over their shoulders to enter the immigration office, and the dust falls two feet down, thickly sprinkled on their pancakes and curry, but they don't care.

I don't know why it took so long in such a small shed.After finishing the process in India, it will take longer to go through the customs formalities in Nepal in a few steps.Our car had no place to park, so we parked in a pile of vendors on the opposite side of the road, squeezing a few vendors away. There is so much dust on the road that you will be covered in smoke if you stand for a few minutes.Many pedestrians wear blue masks, which shows that they don't want to inhale dust, but all the masks have turned blue-black, and they are still shiny. No one can get out of the car, but sitting in such a small car for more than seven hours is enough.I just stood still in the yellow dust and looked around fixedly, half thinking.

Yuan Bai rolled down the car window and asked, "Professor, what are you thinking about standing there with such a large amount of dust?"I smiled back, shook my head, and continued to stand. Li Hui got out of the car and stood with me, telling me some stories about her childhood to relieve my boredom.By her, I think of the previous hosts.Ge Hui has opened her eyes in astonishment when faced with some social scenes in Egypt and Palestine; Hey, haven't tasted the Ganges Valley yet. These ladies have the ability to endure hardship and the spirit of adventure that ordinary people can hardly imagine.I believe their bodies can withstand the hardships here, but what they cannot bear is their eyes and hearts.

I turned around, retreated to the side of the convoy, and tapped our wheels with my foot.This was originally a boring action, but a knock gave out a lot of exclamation. I've been sitting on it for months and it keeps rolling.Rolling over the land in the history textbook, it will be ironed first, and then we will feel it.Greek civilization, Egyptian civilization, Hebrew civilization, Babylonian civilization, Persian civilization, Indus|Ganges civilization is Nepal.Nepal is not the seat of an independent civilization, it is just a transition to the Himalayas for us.Then, this dusty and noisy place, this place where no one wants to set foot on the ground, is the actual end point of our investigation abroad.

Ending up in such a place, I have to stand for a long time, even if the yellow dust sprinkles me into a clay figurine. This is the glorious ancient civilization of mankind.Looking at each of them in turn, the seeker finally turned into a clay figurine standing on the street and not knowing what to say. It was already dark after completing the Nepalese entry procedures. After a short walk, I arrived at the small border town of Birganj. I stayed overnight in a hotel. I found out that the best hotel in the city was this McCaloo, so I stayed in it. My room is on the second floor, across the street. As soon as I walked in, I felt something was wrong. It turned out that three pieces of window panes were missing, and all the sounds from the street, including the strong smell of curry oil, rushed in.

I want to write, and this is really not possible. I was about to ask if it was possible to change another room, when suddenly there was a deafening bell.The bell kept ringing, not knowing what emergency had happened.After finally finding a waiter, he said that this is the evening bell of the Hindu temple opposite, and it will strike for a full hour, and it will strike another hour at 5:15 tomorrow morning. The bell was so loud that no room in the hotel could escape it.Everyone came out of the room, not knowing what to do.Someone said, send someone to the temple to negotiate, give some money, and ask them to knock one less time.But everyone knows this is impossible.

Religious ceremonies have become a habit of life, and if there is one less bell in this city, everything will be chaotic, which is more serious than a lunar eclipse or a solar eclipse. It is not easy to spend an hour in the buzzing, and I really want to see the person who rings the bell, how tired he must be.Suddenly, when the time came, the bell stopped abruptly, the world was as quiet as in ancient times, and even the hustle and bustle of the street that was troubled just now became extremely gentle. Then go to bed early, go to Kathmandu tomorrow morning, and set off before five o'clock to escape the bell.

On December 24, 1999, from India to Burgunj, Nepal, overnight at Makalu Hotel
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