Chapter 6 Chapter 4 Pakding

△Elevation 2800 meters, March 31, 1996 * In the eyes of those who don’t want to procrastinate, our daily trek until the afternoon is too early to end, but we probably can’t stand the heat and foot pain before the rest, and repeatedly ask every Sherpa passing by how far we are from the camp Far?We soon discovered that their answers were the same: My lord, it will take another three kilometers to arrive The evening was peaceful, the twilight seemed soft with smoke hanging high in the still air.The lights on the ridge where we will camp tomorrow flickered on and off, and the clouds blurred the outline of the mountain pass the day after tomorrow.Excitement again and again lures my mind to West Rim

Loneliness also sets in after the sun goes down, but doubts are mostly dismissed now.At this moment, I secretly felt as if my whole life was being left behind.Once I'm on the mountain, I know (or believe) that the mood will fade away and I'll focus on the task at hand.But sometimes I wonder if I've come all the way here to find that what I'm really looking for is really what I left behind and didn't bring. Hornbein's Everest: The West Rim Thomas F. Homlsin, Everest: The West Ridge □□□ From Rukla, the track to Everest heads north through the misty Dudh Kosi gorge.The Dudkosi River is cold and covered with boulders, and it is churning with glacial meltwater.We spent the night in Pakding on the first night of our trek, a small village with only five or six houses squeezed on a protruding flat land on the bank slope.When it was dark the air was as cold as a winter wind, and as I walked up the path in the morning, the rhododendron leaves were covered with a glistening frost.However, the Mount Everest area is located at 28 degrees north latitude, not far from the tropics. When the sun is high and the sun shines into the depths of the canyon, the temperature will rise sharply.At noon we crossed a rickety bridge over the river (for the fourth time in a day), sweat dripped down my chin, and I stripped down to my shorts and T-shirts.

Beyond the bridge, the dirt track deviates from the banks of the Dudkosi River and winds its way up the canyon's steep walls, through thickets of fragrant pine trees.The towering icy peaks of Tangsergu Peak and Kangaloo Mountain, which are riddled with grooves, cut through the sky, rising vertically to 3,200 meters.This is majestic country, the terrain more majestic than any landscape in the world, but this is not wilderness, and it wasn't for hundreds of years ago. Every small patch of arable land was terraced to grow barley, buckwheat or potatoes.There are strings of wind horse flags tied everywhere at the foot of the mountain, and even the highest mountain pass has ancient stupas 1 and beautifully carved Mani walls 2 .As I walked up the river, the trails were packed with hikers, yak carts, red-robed lamas, and barefoot Sherpas hunched over loads of firewood, kerosene, and soda.

Note 1: Stupas are usually made of stones and placed holy objects, also known as stupas and stupas.author note Note 2: Mani stones are small flat stones engraved with Sanskrit symbols, which represent the Tibetan Buddhist mantra Om Mani Padme Hum. They are piled in the middle of the path to form a short and long Mani wall.According to Buddhist etiquette, travelers always keep to the left when passing the Mani Wall.author note Note 3: In fact, the yaks (yaks) seen in the Himalayas are probably flat cattle (naks) that are a mixture of yaks and domestic cattle.Westerners can't tell the difference, so they all call them yaks.author note

Ninety minutes up the river, I boarded a wide bridge, passed several rock-walled yak corrals, and suddenly found myself in the urban area of ​​Namche Bazaar, the social and commercial hub of the Sherpa people.Nanqi Bazaar is 3444 meters above sea level. It is located in a giant inclined basin shaped like a satellite TV dish antenna, spreading upwards to the steep foothills.More than one hundred buildings nestle eye-catchingly on the rock slope, and are connected with each other by intricate narrow roads and mountain paths.I found the Kumbu Hut on the lower edge of town, pulled back the tapestry that served as the front door, and found my teammates drinking lemon tea around a table in the corner.

After I approached, Hall introduced me to Glenn, the third guide of the expeditionary force.Glenn was a thirty-three-year-old Australian with red hair and the lean build of a marathon runner.He was a plumber in Brisbane and only occasionally acted as a guide.In 1987, he descended from the 8,586-meter-high Kanchenjunga Peak and was forced to spend the night in the open air. As a result, his feet suffered from frostbite and he had to undergo surgery to have all his toes removed.However, that setback did not stop his Himalayan career. He continued to climb K2, Lhotse, Cho Oyu and Ama Daburan, and climbed Everest without oxygen in 1993.Glenn was very calm, discreet, and a pleasant companion, but he seldom spoke, and only responded when someone was chatting with him, and his answers were terse, almost inaudible.

The dinner conversation is dominated by three of the doctor's clients, Hutchison, Tusk, and Withers, especially Withers.This pattern was largely repeated during the expedition.Thankfully, both Tusker and Withers are sly and funny, making everyone roll back and forth with laughter.But Withers has a habit of monologues, bashing the Democrats with Limbo 4-style harsh words, and at one point that night I made the big mistake of countering his comment that raising the minimum wage seemed like a wise and necessary policy.Withers was so knowledgeable and eloquent that he refuted my clumsy claims to pieces, and I was powerless to fight back but to fold my arms and shut up and sulk.

Note 4: Rush Limbaugh Ⅲ (1951︱94) is an American writer, reporter, and radio host, as well as a conservative political authority. .Annotation As he continued in his squishy East Texas accent to gossip about the many stupid mistakes of the social welfare system, I got up and walked away from the table lest I further embarrass myself.Later I went back to the restaurant and asked the hostess for a beer.She is a petite, elegant Sherpa woman taking orders from a group of American hikers.We're hungry, a rosy-cheeked man gestures to eat and announces in loud Pidgin English.I want to eat horse︱bell︱potatoes.Yak︱Fort.Coca Cola.you have?

Would you like to see the menu?The Sherpa woman replied in clear and brisk English with a Canadian accent.In fact, we have many things.I think there's also some freshly baked apple pie for dessert if you're interested. The American hiker couldn't understand that the brown-skinned alpine woman was answering him in beautiful pure English, and continued to spit out funny Pidgin English: menu︱menu.well.Yes, yes, we like to look at menu︱menu. The Sherpa people are like a mystery in the eyes of most foreigners, and foreigners always like to see them through a romantic veil.People who are not familiar with the demography of the Himalayas often think that all Nepalese are Sherpas. In fact, the entire Nepal is as large as North Carolina, and there are more than 50 ethnic groups. Among the 20 million residents, there are no Sherpas. More than 20,000 people.The Sherpa people are mountain people who believe in Buddhism. Their ancestors migrated from the south of Tibet four or five hundred years ago.There are Sherpa villages scattered all over the Himalayas in eastern Nepal. There are also quite large Sherpa settlements in Sikkim and Darjeeling, India. However, the core of Sherpa’s homeland is Khumbu, where there are many river valleys flowing to Everest. On the southern slopes, the small area is surprisingly rugged and completely devoid of roads, cars, or any kind of vehicle on wheels.

The high and cold cliff valleys are difficult to farm. The traditional Sherpa economy is mainly based on Tibet-India trade and yak herding.In 1921, when the British made their first expedition to Mount Everest, they decided to hire Sherpas as assistants, and the Sherpa culture changed accordingly. The border of the Kingdom of Nepal was closed to the outside world before 1949, and the first expedition to Mount Everest and the eight subsequent expeditions had to enter the mountain from the north through Tibet, not near Khumbu.However, those nine expeditions were from Darjeeling to Tibet. Many Sherpas have immigrated to Darjeeling. They are known as hardworking, friendly and intelligent among the local immigrants.Furthermore, most Sherpas have lived in villages between 2,700 and 4,200 meters above sea level for generations, and they are physically able to adapt to the harsh environment at high altitudes.Scottish doctor Kailas often followed the Sherpas to climb and travel. Under his recommendation, the Everest expedition in 1921 hired a large group of Sherpas as porters and camp assistants. After that, all expeditions This practice has always been followed, with very few exceptions.

For better or worse, Khumbu's economy and culture over the past two decades have become increasingly dependent on the seasonal hiking and mountaineering flocks of 15,000 people who visit the region each year.Sherpas who have professional mountaineering skills and work on the high peaks (especially Everest's summit) are highly respected in society.It is a pity that the death rate of the Sherpas after they became mountaineering stars was also very high: during the second expedition of the British in 1922, seven Sherpas died in an avalanche. Proportion: Fifty-three total, accounting for more than one-third of the death toll on Mount Everest. A typical Everest expedition has twelve to eighteen job opportunities, and despite the danger, the Sherpas flock to them.The most sought-after position is the position of six mountaineering sherpas, who must have mountaineering skills. They can earn 1,400 to 2,500 U.S. dollars for a two-month adventure, but in the abjectly poor Nepal, the average annual income per person is only 160 U.S. dollars. USD, the above income is naturally quite attractive. In order to cope with the increasingly busy western mountaineering and hiking crowds, many small wooden houses and teahouses have sprung up in the Khumbu area, but the new buildings are especially evident in the Nanqi Bazaar Market.On the mountain road leading to Nanqi Bazaar, I met many porters going up from the lowland forest, carrying freshly cut wooden beams weighing more than 50 kilograms on their backs. This job was extremely laborious, and the daily income was about three dollars. Veteran visitors to Khumbu feel very sad when they see that the tourist boom is coming, and the earthly paradise and Shangri-La on earth in the minds of Western mountaineers in the past are no longer there.Entire valleys were cleared to meet the growing demand for firewood.Teenagers who hang out in the Karom 5 chess room are more likely to wear jeans and a Chicago Bulls T-shirt than traditional gowns.In the evening, the family usually gathers around the projector to watch the latest Arnold Schwarzenegger movie. Note 5: Carrom is a board game played in India and Nepal. The rules and methods are very similar to billiards. The two players in the game take turns to hit the chess pieces in the middle of the table with the round chess pieces in their hands, and the player with the most holes wins.Editor's note The change in Khumbu culture is certainly not all good, but I haven't heard many Sherpas bemoan it.Thanks to the strong currency brought by hikers, climbers, and grants from international relief organizations they support, schools and medical clinics have been established, infant mortality has been reduced, bridges have been built, and Nanqi Bazaar has been returned. and other villages to bring hydroelectric power.Westerners regret that the good old days in the Khumbu region are no longer there, and the local life is no longer as simple and poetic as before. This kind of mentality is somewhat self-righteous.Most of those who live in this rugged mountain region do not seem to want to be isolated from the modern world or the turbulent currents of human progress.The Sherpas do not want to be kept as specimens in an anthropology museum. If people with healthy feet have adapted to the height, they start early and rest late every day. It only takes two or three days to walk from the Lukla temporary airport to the Everest base camp.Most of us had just arrived here from sea level, though, and Hall was careful to walk at a sluggish pace to give our bodies time to adjust to the thinning air.We rarely walk more than three or four hours a day.There were days when Hall had extra acclimatization on the itinerary and we didn't go anywhere at all. We spent a day acclimatizing at Namche Bazaar before continuing on to Base Camp on April 3rd.Twenty minutes after I left the village, I rounded a bend and came to a breathtaking overlook.Six hundred meters below, the Dudkosi cut a deep fold in the surrounding creek rocks, shining like a curved silver ribbon in the shadows.3,000 meters above, the big pointed cone of Ama Dabulan, whose back is illuminated brightly, hovers over the top of the valley like a ghost.2,000 meters further up, Mount Everest's iceberg is almost hidden behind Nuptse Peak, but makes Ama Dabulan Peak look like a dwarf.A wisp of moisture, as usual, flowed across the summit like a frozen cloud of smoke, revealing how violent the jet was. I gazed at the summit for thirty minutes or so, trying to understand what it was like to stand on a storm-swept summit.Although I have climbed hundreds of mountains, Everest is so different from the mountains I have climbed before, and my imagination is not enough to figure out the scene.The summit looked cold, high, and out of reach.I think it seems easier to go to the moon.I turned and continued up the trail, swinging between intense anticipation and overwhelming dread. That afternoon I arrived at the largest and most important Tianpoqi Buddhist Temple in the Khumbu region.Chumba, a Sherpa cook in our expedition team, arranged for everyone to meet with Tenzin Rinpoche. Chumpa, with a sad and thoughtful face, explained that Rinpoche was the leader of the lamas in Nepal, and he was a very sacred person.He just finished a long retreat yesterday, and he hasn't said a word for three months.We will be his first visitors.Could not be more auspicious.Hansen, Kasiske and I each gave Chumba one hundred rupees (about two dollars) to buy a khata white silk scarf to be dedicated to Rinpoche, then took off our shoes, and Chumba took us to the back of the main temple A small airy bedroom. Note 6: The Sherpa language is different from its close relative Tibetan. It has no written language, and Westerners can only use transliteration.As a result, the characters or names of Sherpa are rarely unified. For example, some people in Tengboche also spelled it as Tengpoche or Thyangboche, and there are probably similar differences in the spelling of other Sherpa characters.author note A man sat cross-legged on a brocade pillow. He was short and fat, with a glowing head, wearing a wine-red robe, and looked old and tired.Chumba bowed respectfully, said a word or two to him in Sherpa, and signaled us to come forward.Then Rinpoche blessed each of us, wrapped the khata we bought around our necks, smiled and blessed us, and invited us to drink tea.Chumba told me in a solemn tone, you should wear this khata on the top of Mount Everest7.The gods will be pleased and keep you safe. Note 7: Although Mount Everest is called Mount Everest in Tibetan and Sagarmatha in Nepali, most Sherpas seem to (like Westerners) call Everest in daily conversation, Even talking to fellow Sherpas.author note I was at a loss in front of the Living Buddha, and I was deeply afraid of inadvertently offending or making a slip of the tongue.I sipped my sweet tea and fidgeted as the master searched the adjoining cubicle and handed me a large, richly decorated book.I wiped my dirty hands on my pants and nervously opened the book.It's a photo book.It turned out that Rinpoche had only recently visited the United States for the first time, and the snapshots of this trip were collected in Xiangbo: the master traveled to Washington, and stood in front of the Lincoln Memorial and the Air and Space Museum.The Master traveled to California and stood at the Santa Monica Pier.Grinning, he excitedly points out his two favorite photos from the entire album, one with Richard Gill and the other with Steven Seagal. We spent the first six days of the hike in a blissful way.The mountain trail passes through patches of cypress and dwarf birch forests, pine and rhododendron forests, deafening waterfalls, charming boulder gardens, and gurgling streams.The skyline of the Norse mythological hero hall is full of the mountains I saw in books when I was a child.Most of our gear was carried by yaks and porters, and my own backpack contained only a jacket, a few bars of candy and a camera.No need to carry heavy loads and no one to rush me, enjoying the pure joy of hiking in a foreign country, I was a little tranced, but the happiness was rare and lasted for a long time. I finally remembered where I was going, and the shadow cast by Mount Everest in my heart brought me back to my senses immediately Come. We walked fast or slowly, and often stopped at roadside tea sheds to eat and chat with passers-by.I found myself walking with Hansen, the post office clerk, and Harris, Hall's young guide.Harris was a chunky young man with the build of an American football quarterback and the rugged good looks of a cigarette ad star.In winter in New Zealand and Australia, he was employed as a popular heli-ski guide. In summer, he helped scientists investigate geology in Antarctica, or escorted mountaineers to climb the Southern Alps in New Zealand. We went up the mountain road, and Harris talked about his live-in girlfriend, Dr. Fiona, in a longing tone.While we were resting on a rock, he showed me a photo from his backpack.She was tall, blond, and looked like an athlete.Harris said the two are building a new home together in the hills outside the Queen City.He seemed very enthusiastic about the simple pleasures of sawing rafters and nailing nails, and admitted that when Hall first offered him work on this Everest, he was hesitant to leave Fiona and the house. Very difficult.We've only just put up the roof, haven't we?But how can you refuse the opportunity to climb Mount Everest?Not to mention the opportunity to work with someone like Hall. Although Harris has never been to Mount Everest, he is no stranger to the Himalayas.In 1985, he climbed the very difficult Chobutse (Chobutse) with an altitude of 6,685 meters, which is about 48 kilometers west of Mount Everest.In the autumn of 1994, he assisted Fiona in managing the clinic for four months in the gray village of Perize, more than 4,200 meters above sea level. We spent the night in that small village on April 4th and 5th. Funded by the Himalayan Rescue Association Foundation, the clinic mainly treats altitude sickness, provides free medical care to local Sherpas, and educates hikers about the hidden dangers of climbing too high and too fast.The clinic was established in 1973 after four members of a Japanese hiking team died nearby from altitude sickness.Before the clinic was established, one or two of the 500 hikers who passed through the village of Perizet died of altitude sickness.When we visited, there was a lively American lawyer, Lola, who was working in four clinics with her doctor husband Leach and another young man Silver. She emphasized that the death rate does not include mountaineering accidents, and the figures are appalling. There were people, but no water, and the dead were just ordinary hikers, who had never ventured off the existing mountain trails. Thanks to educational seminars and emergency medical care provided by clinic volunteers, the death rate has dropped to just one of more than 30,000 hikers.Although Western idealists like Lola do not get paid for their work at the Perize clinic, and even have to pay for their own travel to and from Nepal, this prestigious position still attracts high-quality manpower from all over the world.Hall's expedition doctor, Caroline, had worked with Fiona and Harris at the Himalayan Rescue Society clinic in the fall of 1994. In 1990, the year that Hall first climbed Mount Everest, the clinic was managed by Jane, a New Zealand doctor with outstanding medical skills and confidence.Holden passed through the village of Perize, met her, and fell in love at first sight.Our first night in the village, recalls Hall, I came down from Everest and immediately asked her out.On a first date, I suggested that we go to Alaska and climb Mount McKinley together.She said yes.The two married two years later.Jane climbed Everest with Hall in 1993, and in 1994 and 1995 she served as an expedition doctor at Base Camp.She was supposed to go back to the mountains this year, but she was seven months pregnant with her first child, and the job fell to Dr. Caroline. On Thursday, our first night at Perizet, after dinner, Lola and Leach invited Hall, Harris, and our base camp manager, Helen, to the clinic for a drink and a chat.The conversation turned to the dangers inherent in climbing Everest (and taking others up), a discussion Leach vividly remembers, in which Hall, Harris, and Leach agreed that sooner or later there would be an inescapable, involved Catastrophe for many clients.But Leach, who climbed Mount Everest from Tibet the previous spring, said that Hall didn't think it would happen to him. He was only worried about having to save the idiots of other teams. It is believed that it will happen on the north face of the more dangerous mountain.That is the side of Tibet. On Saturday, April 6th, after a few hours of walking up from the village of Perize, we came to the lower edge of the Khumbu Glacier.The Khumbu Glacier is a nineteen-kilometer-long tongue of ice flowing down from the southern flank of Mount Everest, which (I hope deeply) can serve as our access to the summit.At an altitude of more than 4,800 meters, I couldn't even see the last touch of greenery.Twenty mani piles are lined up gloomy along the top of the moraine at the end of the glacier, overlooking the misty valley, to commemorate the mountain friends who died on Mount Everest, mostly Sherpas.Our world would be a barren desert of monochromatic rock and wind-eroded ice.Although we walked cautiously and slowly, I gradually felt the effects of the high altitude, dizzy and gasping for breath. Many of the mountain trails here are buried under the winter snow that is as high as a person.The afternoon sun softened the snow, our yak hoofs stepped through the frozen ice shell, and our bodies sank, even our bellies sank into the snow.While beating the yaks to force them to move forward, the cattle driver threatened to turn around.In the evening we arrived at a village named Luobuqi, and found a narrow, filthy small house for shelter from the wind. Lobuche is a terrible place, only crumbling houses clinging to the edge of the Khumbu Glacier, but crowded with twelve expeditionary teams of Sherpas and mountaineers, German trekkers and herds of emaciated yaks, all of which have to go up the valley for another day , to Everest base camp.Hall explained that the reason why everyone is stuck here is that the snow fell very late and the snow was so thick that until yesterday, the yaks could not reach the base camp at all.The five or six cottages in the small village were full.The tents were huddled shoulder to shoulder on the few dirt spots where there was no snow.Dozens of Rai and Tamang tribesmen from the lower foothills camped out in caves and under boulders on adjacent slopes, dressed in thin rags and sandals, and served as porters for the various expeditions. The three or four stone latrines in the village were full, which was unbearable.Regardless of Nepalese or Westerners, almost all internal urgency is solved in the wild.There were piles of stinking human feces everywhere, and it was impossible not to step on them.The snowmelt stream meanders through the center of the small village and becomes an uncovered sewer. The large room of the wooden house we live in has bunk beds on wooden boards, which can sleep about 30 people.I found an empty bunk on the upper level, shook fleas and ticks off the dirty mattress frantically, and put my sleeping bag on it.Next to the wall is a small iron stove for burning dry yak dung to keep warm.After the sun went down, the temperature dropped below the freezing point, porters flocked in to escape the cold, and gathered around the stove to keep warm.Dried manure is not easy to burn even under the best conditions. It is even worse in the oxygen-deficient air at an altitude of more than 4,900 meters. inside the house.Twice during the night I coughed so much that I had to escape outside to get some air.In the morning, my eyes were red, swollen and congested, my nose was covered with black soot, and I also suffered from a stubborn dry cough, which did not get better until the end of the expedition. Hall had only planned for us to spend a day at Lobuche, acclimate to the high altitude, and then walk the last eight or nine kilometers to base camp. Our Sherpa had been there a few days earlier to prepare camp for us and set out to set up camp at Notre Dame. The uphill route is built on the lower slope of the peak.However, on the evening of April 7, a man ran out of breath from the base camp to Lobuche and brought a piece of disturbing news: Tenzing, a young Sherpa employed by Hall, fell 45 meters below the ground. In the crevices of the glaciers.Four other Sherpas pulled him out, but he was badly injured, possibly with a broken femur.Hall paled, announcing that he and Glenn were at base camp at dawn to coordinate the rescue of Tenzing.He went on to say, I regret having to announce this to you guys, you have to stay with Harris on Robzaki's side until we get the situation under control. We only heard later that Tenzin and four other Sherpas were exploring the mountaineering route above the No. 1 Battalion, climbing a relatively gentle section of the Khumbu Glacier.Five people walked in a single file, which was very clever, but they didn't use ropes, which seriously violated the mountaineering rules.Tenzin followed closely behind the other four people, stepping on their footsteps, even stepping through a thin layer of ice on a deep crevasse.He didn't even have time to shout, falling like a rock into the dim interior of the glacier. The site is 6,200 meters above sea level, generally considered too high to be safely evacuated by helicopter.There is not enough air to provide enough air buoyancy for the helicopter's rotors. Landing, taking off, or circling are extremely dangerous. Tenzing must be carried by manpower along the Khumbu Icefall to the base camp at a vertical distance of more than 900 meters. One of the steepest and most dangerous parts of the mountain.It took a lot of effort to get him down the mountain alive. Hall has always been particularly concerned about the welfare of his Sherpas.Before our group left Kathmandu, he asked us to sit down and reminded us sternly to appreciate and respect the Sherpa staff.He told us that the Sherpa we hired was the best in the business.They work beyond imagination, and their pay is paltry by Western standards.I want everyone to remember that we would never have reached the summit of Everest without their help.I repeat, none of us would have had the chance to reach the summit without our Sherpa support. In the second half of the conversation, Hall admits that over the past few years he has criticized certain expedition leaders for not caring about Sherpa employees.A young Sherpa died on Mount Everest in 1995, and Hall speculates that the accident happened because the Sherpa was allowed to climb high on the mountain without proper training.I believe those of us who make up the mountaineering team have a responsibility to prevent this sort of thing from happening. The year before, an American expedition led by a guide hired a Sherpa named Kami as a cook boy.He is about 21 or 2 years old, strong and ambitious, and he desperately lobbied others to let him work as a mountaineering sherpa in Gaoshan.Everyone appreciated his enthusiasm and dedication, and made his wish come true after a few weeks, even though he had no climbing experience, no formal training, and no proper skills. The standard route of Mount Everest from 6,700 meters to 7,600 meters has to climb a steep ice slope called Lhotse Mountain Wall.For safety, the expedition team will always set up a series of ropes from bottom to top on this slope. When climbing up, climbers should hang a short safety rope on this fixed rope to protect themselves.Kami was young, conceited and inexperienced, and did not think it necessary to hang himself on the fixed rope.One afternoon, he carried a pack of things up the Lhotse Mountain wall, lost his footing on the rock-hard ice, and fell to the bottom of the ice wall more than 600 meters below. My teammate Fishbeck witnessed the whole process firsthand.He made his third attempt to climb Mount Everest in 1995 as a client of the American company that hired Cammy.He said distressedly that he was climbing up the rope on the upper half of the Lhotse mountain wall when he looked up and saw a person fall from the top with his head on his feet.He screamed while falling, leaving a trail of blood. Several climbers made it to the bottom of the ice wall where Kami fell, but he died of his injuries.His body was transported to the base camp, and friends bought food according to the Buddhist tradition to feed the body for three days, and then moved him to a village near Tianpoqi for cremation.The moment the body was engulfed in flames, his mother broke down in tears and picked up a sharp rock to beat her own head. At dawn on April 8, when Hall took Glenn to the base camp, trying to send Tenzing down Mount Everest alive, Kami had been lingering in his mind.