Chapter 11 Chapter 9 The King of Rock Climbing

1 That was too difficult, Miyagawa said. Ginza is located in a beer hall in the basement. The timing has entered August. Makoto Fukamachi faced Miyagawa across the small table. The beer that the two of them put in the tankard has been reduced to less than half. It is impossible to stay for seven years, Fukamachi said to Miyagawa. I've looked around.Entry for employment is six months.After six months, you must go abroad.Go abroad and come back again.Also, you can't come back right away.must be done every few months I heard that the border control in Nepal has become much stricter than before.

Suppose Hanyu Joji re-entered Nepal in 1986 after the expedition, and then stayed in Nepal for about seven years until 1993 this year. This should not be possible. However, it is impossible for him to return to Japan during this period. There are many ways to come back without being discovered by anyone.Besides, even if you want to go abroad, you don't have to go back to Japan.He could also go south to India. That's right. If you are engaged in important work related to the Nepalese government, you can get a non-tourist visa, which allows you to stay for one year.However, after one year, you must apply for an extension.Otherwise, it depends on whether you have a good relationship with relevant people in the government

Miyagawa picked up the beer glass with his right hand and poured beer down his throat. Damn it, Mallory, Miyagawa wiped his mouth and muttered. It has come to the time when work is over and crowds flock to such places. Even when the sun was setting and the lights outside were still brightly lit, the tables around the two of them were full of seats and people. Fukamachi told Miyagawa that he saw a man who looked like Joji Hanyu in Nepal a week ago. Fukamachi thought that sooner or later he would go to Nepal again. It is not impossible to go at your own expense, but if you go to work, you will save money.It was unlikely to sell for money right away, but if the camera really belonged to Mallory, it would be big news.

Even if this is not the case, what Hanyu is doing now will be a decent report. Go at your own expense. If it is written as a report, in addition to the manuscript fee, the magazine will also be asked to pay for transportation and accommodation depending on the situation. Fukamachi thought that it would be great if he could get this level of verbal agreement, so he told Miyagawa. Besides, it is more convenient for someone to know and provide assistance in various aspects.If there is someone who can go around Japan to help while I am in Nepal, that would be my wish. Miyagawa raised his voice when it came to Mallory's camera.

Was that really Mallory's camera? If it's true, it's a big deal Miyagawa also fully understands the significance of the discovery of Mallory's camera. good.I assist you.If that is true, all expenses will be covered by our magazine After finishing speaking, Miyagawa asked Fukamachi: Did you tell anyone else about this? No.you are the first. very good.You listen carefully, this is a secret between you and me.Even within the company, I will keep this matter a secret for the time being.Because if you say it, it will definitely leak out. Miyagawa's voice was trembling. are you excited

nonsense!Mallory!Maybe it can solve the mystery of whether he was the first person to climb Mount Everest! At that time, Fukamachi asked Miyagawa to investigate Hanyu Joji's stay in Nepal on his behalf.Now, he is listening to Miyagawa's report. Besides, there is the issue of passports.Even if the visa is successfully obtained through the relationship, the passport will expire in five years. Miyagawa flicked the empty beer mug with his finger. makes sense. However, it should be possible to apply for a new passport at the embassy. If Hanyu applies for a new passport at the Japanese embassy in Nepal, can we follow this line and find out where Hanyu is?

Generally, there should be no way.It's not that you call the Ministry of Foreign Affairs① and ask the other party to tell you, and the other party will obediently do so. Note ①: The Ministry of Foreign Affairs is equivalent to the Ministry of Foreign Affairs. However, if you live in a foreign country, the Ministry of Foreign Affairs should archive and manage the contact address and other information.At least know his contact information in Japan, right? I have friends who are officials from the Ministry of Foreign Affairs.I could ask him if I could investigate that kind of thing, but wouldn't it be faster to fly directly to Kathmandu and ask the Japanese or Sherpas there about Hanyu?Hanyu has another name there, right?what do you say that is

Bisalu sap? That's right.If you follow the line to investigate under this name, there should always be a way to find clues. Nepal Instead of dreaming here, let's go there. Miyagawa picked up the beer glass and found it was empty, put the glass on the table again, and looked at Fukamachi. go! But, before that, I want to check one thing. What's up? Hase's business. Hase?Is it about Hase Tsuneo who died the year before last? Um Fukamachi twitched her chin and nodded. 2 It was after the Obon festival that Fukamachi couldn't contact Kayoko Segawa. After the Obon Festival, Fukamachi called her, and the mechanical female voice on the tape told him: The number you dialed is an empty number.

I called Qingmeisha, and a female editor I knew said to Fukamachi: Miss Kayoko, she resigned. Resigned? Yes. when? August 13th Do you know her contact information? Know. Can you tell me? Well she hesitated. What's wrong? She said, don't tell Mr. Fukamachi. do not tell me? Yes. Her voice sounded distressed. She should also have a rough idea of ​​what happened between herself and Kayoko Segawa. When Kayoko forbade her to tell her her contact information, she might have revealed something deeper to her. She said she would write to you when she was settled.Anyway, if you are looking for it, you will probably find out where she is right away, so I hope you don't look for her until then

She said, are you not allowed to find her? Yes. After taking a few deep breaths, Fukamachi said briefly: Please tell her, I will do as she says. Then, hang up the microphone. Why is Kayoko hiding? Fukamachi knew why. Because she thought that the two of them could no longer go on. Kayoko was not waiting for herself to accept, but took the initiative to withdraw.No matter what conclusion Fukamachi makes, Kayoko thinks that she can no longer maintain this relationship, so she disappears. She was not an official employee in the first place.But then again Fukamachi bit his lip and exhaled.

Kayoko resigned from her long-accustomed post. She received a not-so-low income in this workplace, and found her own piece of heaven.She used to work exclusively for Qingmei Club, so if she wants to find a job next, it must be quite hard. However, Kayoko quit her job fully aware of the consequences, and even moved home Fukamachi thought that he had forced Kayoko to this point. I did something sorry for her However, when it came to how he could help her, he couldn't think of any. Maybe even though she doesn't have her own desk at Qingmeishe, she still has large-scale work left, so she can do it at her own home instead. Fukamachi wanted to call again and ask about work, but he gave up. I can't do anything even if I ask. Because this is the conclusion between himself and Kayoko. Kayoko proved the conclusions he had reached with his actions. So, should I respect Kayoko's conclusion? Fukamachi thought so.But I also feel that I was deprived of the conclusion I should have raised instead. Always like this. Always like this. Things are always when I can't make up my mind and hesitate, and someone forces a conclusion. Up to now, Fukamachi no longer intends to blame anyone.There is no way for a person to settle everything one by one before continuing to live. People often have to hold on to something unresolved and face the next thing. That's how people are.Fukamachi somehow understood this. I understand it, but then again, the matter was too sudden. without warning When you think about it, it's a matter of course. It is impossible for Kayoko to discuss this matter with Fukamachi.So I came to my own conclusions. Fukamachi gritted her teeth, wanting to respect her decision. He put down the microphone and lay on his back on the tatami. Three Ping big room On the opposite side there is a room of about 4 pings, which doubles as a living room and kitchen. This is my own apartment. Photographic equipment and climbing props are scattered in disorder.The partition between the living room and the living room was removed to make the space larger, and the work table, bookcase, file cabinet, and cabinet for storing the filmed negatives were placed, leaving only a space that can barely lie on the side. hello fukomachi Fukamachi said out loud. How old are you?Are you going to be forty soon? Is this the room of a man who is about to turn forty? If you are a bright student, you will live in a more decent room. Is this the way to go? Are you going to go on like this? How long can you eat and drink as a photographer? Occasionally write manuscripts, how many jobs do you do a month, and how much money have you saved? Savings are pitifully small. Almost all the money was spent on climbing Mount Everest. After returning home, although it was a cheap room in a business hotel, I stayed there for a week. Now, how much cash can be raised immediately? Mountain climbing is good for the body and mind.Going to climb Mount Everest is certainly a joy.And it's probably worth showing off. But, even if we went to the top of the mountain, it's over like this, isn't it?Back to Japan, back to this room, and then have to live longer than Everest. What are you going to do if you lose your job because of living there?Can you climb Everest every time you lose your job?Do you lose friends one by one every time you climb Everest? 呿. I want to drop everything. Throw away all that can be thrown away here, and go somewhere as light as a swallow.It doesn't matter how everything turns out, I don't want to have anything to do with it anymore Exhausted. But Fukamachi thought. He believes that people must live. I don't know how many years or decades I have to live.Whether it is meaningless time or precious time, it must be spent before death. To live anyway. Fukamachi knew to survive. Now that I know this, before I die, I have to fill those hours with something. Now that I know about it Since I have to fill up the time anyway, I might never be able to accept it, I might never be able to accept it, I might not know why, but there is still an answer, and I am walking towards the peak that I might not be able to reach It should be my own way to fill up with that kind of things. a point in the blue sky A unique place in this world. The roof of the world. I want to keep climbing up there. No matter in which hotel you get drunk and sleep in an alley, you should remember that white peak in your heart.I want to be attached to her. Feeling numb. perhaps To keep thinking about that peak in my heart is to be attached to her. I know that.I know Fukamachi said to himself. I am tired now. Don't think about anything now, just let me look up at the ceiling with my head blank like this 3 Tsuneo Hase died in October 1991. Died in an avalanche while climbing K2 in the Karakoram Mountains. K2 means the survey mark of Karakoram 2.It directly became the name of the mountain. Although the Karakoram Mountains are not connected to the Himalayas in terms of terrain, in a broad sense, in the history of mountaineering, she is included in the Himalayas.The altitude is 8,611 meters.Located at the northeastern tip of Pakistan, it is the second highest peak in the world after Mount Everest. The Bati language is called Chogori. In 1954, Campanoni and Ratchedelli of the Italian team set foot on that peak. Tsuneo Hase challenged the 8,000-meter peak for the second time since Mount Everest in 1985. Moreover, Hase wanted to challenge the mountain alone. He took ten Japanese support team members and set up a base camp at 5,400 meters. One of the conditions for a solo summit to be established is that from the base camp, no assistance from other people can be obtained upwards.If this unwritten condition is met, it is considered a successful climb to the summit alone. On the other hand, before the base camp, no matter how much manpower is used, it is not illegal to go directly there by helicopter. In addition, there are 20 porters and four Sherpas brought from Nepal to assist. Although they are assisting, they are members of the photography team. Although C1, C2, C3, C4 and other camps will still be set up one after another, these camps are used for the photography team to rest, and Zhang Gu must rely on his own strength to carry all the materials used to build his own camp. The intersection between the backup team and Changgu is limited to radio communication, except when the accident happened in Changgu.Before C4, although the backup team could use the path opened, the backup team would not go ahead of Chang Gu from the point of more than 8,000 meters. Chang Gu set this condition for himself in the challenge. no oxygen Changgu, who has increased his confidence after experiencing Mount Everest, chose to climb K2 alone without oxygen. but On the way from the base camp to the establishment of the first battalion, at an altitude of less than 6,000 meters, Zhang Gu was caught in an avalanche and died. forty-four years old For the mountaineer standing on the front line, this is probably his last challenge. □□□ Unbelievable. Still unbelievable today.I've climbed K2 twice, so it's very clear.As far as I know, there has never been an avalanche there. I know that in principle, if there is snow on a slope, no matter how gentle it is, there is a chance of an avalanche.But it wasn't that kind of place. The slopes are not steep, the weather is cold, and the weather lasts for several days.There is no fresh snow.The snow also freezes solidly, requiring little shoveling to clear the way.In this route, it should be the safest place. In order to adapt to the height, move your muscles and bones a little With this feeling in mind, Hase left the base camp. Of course, footage of him setting off from base camp was filmed. After filming the departure scene, the four of us caught up with Zhang Gu 20 minutes late. After walking for about half an hour, I saw Zhang Gu walking ahead. The gentle snow slope slopes from left to right, and Hase walks on that vast expanse of snow. Because it is a good place, we wanted to set up a tripod and take a picture of Hase's back.At this time, I saw that scene. On the slope, clouds of white smoke and dust shot up into the blue sky. At first, we thought it was a cloud. However, that is not a cloud. The white cloud-like thing swelled and spread to the sky, and rushed down the slope at the same time. It was after that that I heard the bang of the avalanche. It's an avalanche When we thought this way, Zhang Gu also noticed it. He started running this way.Put all your strength into it. But from our point of view, we know that no matter how fast Chang Gu speeds up, he will be doomed.The distance the cane must travel, the enormity of the object falling from above, and the speed at which it is falling too late.We get that. Should that be called fear, maybe it should be fear, there is a feeling of anal constriction. Chang Gu didn't run a few steps, and was swept in by the avalanche in the blink of an eye. We were too scared to move. For a while, even the sound could not come out. The moment he was involved, we had forgotten who said what, but we cried: Avalanche! Fool! That rascal. So, we just ran over with ice sticks. We prayed that he was still alive and rushed to the scene. When we arrived at the scene, we knew that there was probably no way to recover. From a distance, it looks like beautiful snow and smoke, but when you get closer, it is horrible. Ice-like blocks of snow were rolling around, and there was no salvation. However, there may be a one in ten thousand chance that he is still alive.If so, the first twenty minutes are the critical moment.If Changgu could be dug out from the snowdrift within twenty minutes, maybe he could be brought back to life.Rather than calling for rescue, it would be better if the four present search for Zhang Gu together, and after 20 minutes, send another person back to the base camp to find someone. So, we act. The four of them lined up, while inserting the ice stick into the snow, while moving on the slope.Insert the tip of the ice stick into the snow, moving twenty centimeters at a time.If there is a human body buried in the snow, you will know it from the touch of the ice stick As a result, Zhang Gu's body was not found until the next day. Shusuke Kitahama (photographer), <Interview>, "Yue Wang" January 1992 issue i'm so mean Fukamachi thought to himself while waiting for Hisaya Iwahara at the teahouse. He tried not to think about it by working.Trying to forget about Kayoko No, what I'm doing now isn't even a job. interest. Maybe you won't even get a penny by doing so.I want to not think about it by putting my heart into it.However, at the bottom of consciousness there is often something as gray as thick tar, which cannot be erased. The more you put your heart into something, the darker and thicker it takes root. I try to escape by working. However, no matter how despicable and indecent, it is yourself. It is also himself who falls in love with Kayoko. I was the one who lost ground because Kayoko had another man, and now, I am the one who is waiting for Iwahara for a job that cannot be called a job. Can't help being yourself.Whether it's being confused about a woman like this, or those flustered moods, it's all about me.No matter what you want to escape from, you can't escape from yourself. Fujimi Hotel A teahouse in a small restaurant in Shinagawa. Hisaya Iwahara's company is nearby. As soon as Fukamachi called and told him that he wanted to meet, Iwahara immediately designated this place. If it is about an hour at noon, I can spare time to chat with you about Iwahara said. So now, Fukamachi is waiting for Iwahara. Why contact Iwahara? In fact, it was because not long ago, Fukamachi accidentally read Hase Tsuneo's diary. The collection of posthumous manuscripts published after Hase’s death includes articles written by Hase to various magazines that have not yet been compiled into a book, as well as articles that have not yet been published. The book "The Rock Wall in the Sky" contains a diary.title is , but that title was not taken by Chang Gu himself. From the discovery of Hase to the summit of K2 alone, until he put it into practice, he wrote down the content in the form of a diary and published it as a journal. . Some sections are in prose, others in memorandum form.No matter what it is, if the summit is completed later, Hase will definitely plan to move this draft intact as the original manuscript. in that article, there is a paragraph of interesting text. □□□ Kathmandu, May 3rd Climb the 8,000-meter peak alone without oxygen.Going to do it.Needless to say, I know that my heart is up and down. It turned out that there was such an idea.If you think about it, it should be possible. I can too It's just such a short paragraph, but this part makes Fukamachi inexplicably concerned. So, he decided to meet with Iwahara. Iwahara stays in the publishing department of Keiryusha, which published "The Rock in the Sky", and is the head of the department that edits books on mountaineering and outdoors.He had been an aggressive climber in the past and should be about the same age as Hase, so he should be forty-six this year. Iwahara showed up exactly at twelve o'clock. 4 Yes, that one, I was the one who made the decision and took care of everything myself.I also read all Hase’s manuscripts once. The coffee was served, but Iwahara didn't take a sip. This is not the first time the two have met. Although they didn't work together directly, Fukamachi took over the work of Keiryu Club several times, and met Iwahara several times and exchanged business cards. The two hadn't seen each other for a long time, after a formal greeting.The topic turned to Hase Tsuneo's "The Rock Wall in the Sky". I know Mr. Hase seriously started to think about climbing K2 alone without oxygen, Fukamachi said after he returned from Nepal in 1990. Is it May?Iwahara asked while reaching for a coffee cup. Yes. Fukamachi took out the "Rock Wall in the Sky" he had brought with him, and opened the page where the text was published. That is, as written here, I can assume that the idea came up in Nepal? Yes. Why did Mr. Hase think of such a thing in Nepal? do not know.Since there are groups of 8,000-meter peaks over there, it shouldn't be surprising to think of such things. But If you just think about it casually, anyone will fantasize in the corner of their mind. Climb the 8,000-meter peak of the Himalayas alone without oxygen. However, this is tantamount to fantasy. Impossible. Must have strong physical strength, willpower, and excellent luck.Climbing to the summit is not a one-off process, and you must accumulate training to adapt your body to the height of 8,000 meters.From the beginning of training, including the time of adaptation and training, it will take about half a year.Mountaineering to adapt to the height cannot be done by one person alone, and it takes time and money to climb the ordinary 8,000-meter peak. If you take into account the mountaineering permit and various preparations, it will take two years to start training. And the premise is that there are sponsors. Unless the mountaineer has a considerable reputation and actual achievements, it is tantamount to nonsense. The first person who successfully climbed the 8,000-meter peak of the Himalayas alone without oxygen was Reinho.Messner. In August 1978, Messner stood on the summit of Nanga Pabet Peak at 8.126 meters.Apart from him, there are very few people who have summited Nanga Pabet. Can this be done in winter?Naoki Uemura, who died on Mount McKenney in 1984, joined the Japanese winter team of Mount Everest in 1981 and tried to reach the summit, but failed. Note ②: Mt. McKinley, the highest peak in North America, is 6,194 meters above sea level, and its geographical location is close to the Arctic Circle, which makes this mountain extremely cold, with a snow line of only about 1,000 meters.The biggest challenge of climbing Mount McKenney is the changeable and unpredictable local weather, the temperature difference between day and night can reach 50 degrees, and only April to July is suitable for climbing in a year. Note ③: Naoki Uemura (1941︱1984) was the first Japanese to climb Mount Everest, the highest peak in the world, and the first person in the world to successfully climb the highest peaks on five continents. If Zhang Gu depicted it in his mind as a scene in reality, there must be some kind of opportunity. that opportunity is Is it possible that Mr. Hase met someone in Nepal?That meeting was an opportunity It made him think of climbing K2 alone without oxygen? Yes. □□□ Climbing the 8,000-meter peak alone without oxygen plan to do needless to say From Changxiong Hase's words, which cannot be called a diary or a memo, it is obvious who he regards as an imaginary enemy. Climb the 8,000-meter peak alone without oxygen. Just looking at this sentence makes people confused, but Hase went on to write: intend to do (that thing). Fukamachi always felt that it was more reasonable to think that this sentence was not referring to himself, but someone else's plan to do it. It goes without saying. This sentence should refer to, needless to say, what others are planning to do (climbing the 8,000-meter peak alone without oxygen). I can too And does this sentence imply that someone provided Changgu Anaerobic with the idea of ​​climbing the 8,000-meter peak alone? Fukamachi told Iwahara so. Has Mr. Hase met someone in Kathmandu? Of course, it's not impossible, but with whom?Iwahara asked Fukamachi. Joji Hanyu Fukamachi almost said the name, but barely held back. maybe This is an intuition: Did Hanyu Joji and Hase Tsuneo meet in Nepal in 1990? Regardless of whether it is a coincidence or not, will the two meet? At that time, did Hase's mind specifically see the image of climbing the 8,000-meter peak alone without oxygen? However, this is just imagination. Fukamachi came to see Iwahara, wanting to confirm how much this imagination guessed. If Hase and Hanyu met, why did Hase hide that? Why don't you even write the name of the person you met on the memorandum? If Hase really has a secret and doesn't want people to know the name of the person he met, it is very likely that he will not write the name of the other person in the memorandum.Because even with a diary, people hide things.Since diaries may be read by others, people sometimes do not write down things they do not want others to know. And basically, if the memo has the potential to become a typeface where someone reads it, that awareness will work strongly.That being the case, the content of the memo only needs to be written down to remind yourself of the time. If this is the case, why did Hase want to hide the fact that he met Hanyu, or other people? Or, is this thinking too much? Is there anything similar mentioned in Hase-san's other memos? You mean, a memo documenting meeting a guy in Nepal to get himself the idea of ​​a solo anaerobic summit? Yes. i didn't find out I heard that the reason why Mr. Hase went to Nepal should be to shoot commercials Yes.He went to shoot a TV commercial for a coffee maker.I think they are going into Pokhara, with Fishtail and Annapurna in the background Was there anyone who was on staff at the time and might have known about it? In this case, Mr. Akisuke Kitahama, the photographer, should be the most suitable candidate. He also served as a photographer when Hase-san went to K2, right? Yes.Because of the chance of shooting an advertisement in Nepal, he also served as a photographer when Changgu went to K2. Iwahara took out his notepad and told Fukamachi Kitahama Shusuke's contact information. Wait until Fukamachi finishes copying Akisuke Kitahama's phone number However, I never expected that I would be the editor of Changxiong Hase's book. Iwahara said. How do you say that? Once upon a time, Hase Changxiong and I had a little feud. That was when I was young.It was nearly twenty years ago. What happened? Yes.Because of this, I missed the opportunity to talk to Hase Changxiong.I could say I hated him once. hated him? Um.But I don't hate him now.So, I can bring up the past like this. If it is convenient, can you tell me about that? Of course it doesn't hurt to tell you. Iwahara drank the rest of the coffee in one gulp, and put down the coffee cup as if making up his mind. That was March 1974 nearly twenty years ago. I think that Zhang Gu and I were around twenty-seven years old at the time, and we had little understanding of the hardships and fun of rock climbing. When we were the youngest and frivolous Iwahara began to talk in a sleepy tone. 5 At that time, Hisaya Iwahara belonged to the mountaineering association, the Yue Linghui. As far as the group is concerned, Yue Lenghui can still be regarded as the main force of the intermediate strength, and Yan Yuan's strength can be regarded as outstanding among them.He has the technique, stamina and willpower to rival the best in other top mountaineering clubs. However, he has barely received a medal for taking a new route to the summit for the first time.Because he has not met a rope friend who is good enough to be his partner, and he can climb new routes together. Iwahara has been trying to climb the Takizawa Shigetaro rock face of Tanigawa Takeichi no Kurazawa since several years ago. At that time, it was the last route in Kurasawa of Takeichi Tanigawa that no one had traveled in winter.Although it is not as good as Ghost Rock, this rock wall also has frequent avalanches in winter. Ambitious climbers are secretly planning in their hearts that one day they will conquer her, but once it becomes a real problem, this rock wall will make it impossible to set off for a long time. For about three years, I went to investigate every year and spent about one week to ten days to study the situation of avalanches, said Iwahara. I finally made up my mind in March 1974. For this day, I trained a man named Kazumi Kitazawa in our mountaineering club for three years.We have both climbed several winter rock faces.In addition to Ichinokura, I also climbed Takiya and Pingfeng Rock in Hotaka. In the mountaineering club, Kitazawa's strength is second only to Iwahara. Do you want to climb the Jutaro Rock Wall? Iwahara mentioned this matter to Kitazawa in November of the previous year. No way?Kitazawa was terrified. do not worry.We can do it.Avalanches there are regular, although they vary with snowmelt conditions.And the route is also fixed Iwahara asked Kitazawa to look at the notebook he had carefully recorded so far. Went into the local area for a week in early March.Keep checking the weather map, waiting for an opportunity.There will definitely be a day or two.When the time comes, solve Chongtaro Rock in one go. Kitazawa participated in that project. Kitazawa and I wrote a suicide note before we set off.Give that to a friend and leave Tokyo Even though I was mentally prepared that I might die, I still couldn't eat within ten days before departure.Swallow it in and spit it out. We waited four days in a tent. The fifth day is a great condition for the right time, place and people. About an hour and a half after I started climbing Jutaro Rock, I encountered a difficulty. Small hanging rocks. Going around it left or right is the best option, but which way to go? While we were hesitating, someone climbed up from below at a fast speed. Is a man who acts alone. It didn't take long before he was overtaken by him at the bottom of the hanging rock.That man was Hase Changxiong. My surname is Chang Gu.said the man with a smile on his face. I have known the name Changxiong Hase for a long time.After all, he is the one who pioneered new routes for rock faces in Japan one after another.I know the names of people who come to climb Ichinokura in winter.Hase Tsuneo is already a well-known big shot This is the Changgu? Both Iwahara and Kitazawa squinted their eyes at Hase. This place is really dangerous.I thought it would take about 20 minutes to get it done, but I didn't expect it to take 30 minutes.Hase said briskly. It's amazing.Because it only took him thirty minutes to climb the place where we spent an hour and a half. and easily This description is very appropriate. Hase overtook them as if walking on a vertical rock wall. Iwahara and Kitazawa quickened their pace.After climbing up for about half an hour, I finally caught up with Zhang Gu. Because of the snow in that place, thick snow had to be shoveled to clear the road. Chang Gu climbed up while shoveling snow alone. The reason why Iwahara and Kitazawa immediately caught up with Hase was because Hase was shoveling snow to clear the way.It is very easy for those who walk in front to shovel the snow to clear the way, and those behind to walk off the good road and climb up. Shall we change?Iwahara, who caught up, said to Hase. Thank you. The three of them took turns shoveling snow to clear the way. There are two such places. When breaking through those two places, finally there is no need to shovel snow to clear the way, and it becomes only ice and rock walls There will be a period later. Hase said so, leaving the two of them there, and began to climb the rock wall. When Iwahara and Kitazawa finished climbing Jutaro Rock, Hase was no longer there. After the two descended the mountain, they saw Hase again in front of Tuai's mountaineering guidance center. Hase, who had unloaded his hiking backpack, stood there with a smile on his face and stretched out his right hand, intending to shake hands with the two who had just descended the mountain. oops When Iwahara took that hand, Hase continued with a smile on his face: Congratulations on being the second ascent. This sentence made people lose their voices. 6 Fukamachi drank beer while waiting for Miyagawa. The location was the beer house in the basement of Ginza when I met Miyagawa not long ago. Chilly summer.The sun seldom shows its face, but it rains often. The typhoon headed straight for Kyushu, raining so much in southern Kyushu that flooded rivers in Kagoshima and Kumamoto.The TV broadcasted images of the river flooding ashore, hollowing out the earth and stones on the river bank, and the houses built by the river sinking into the river and being washed away by the rolling yellow-brown mud. The private house rolled and toppled in the torrent, and it collapsed and was swallowed into the mud flow. The days when the sun rises are only a few days away, and they don't last long. Although it is cold summer, it is still summer after all, and the temperature is quite high. If you write in a room without air conditioning, your hands will sweat and the paper will stick to your wrists and elbows. Sometimes it's impossible to stay in a place like this without drinking some beer. Once locked at home, the mood will become depressed. Fukamachi tries to fill his time with work or meeting people, but when the other party is late for an appointment, his consciousness can't help but turn to Kayoko. Miyagawa, come quickly! Fukamachi muttered inwardly, and glanced at his watch. Ten minutes past the appointed time. Earlier, Fukamachi and Kitahama Shusuke were talking together. The venue is the teahouse of the Ginza Daiichi Hotel. Fukamachi asked Kitahama: In 1990, you entered Kathmandu for filming a TV commercial. Did anything happen there that made Hase think of climbing K2 alone without oxygen? Do you have any clue? do not know Bei Bin tilted his head. If it comes to mind in Kathmandu, I can agree.But if you ask me, what kind of opportunity did he think of, I'm not so sure.However, if Hase first thought of it while staying in Kathmandu, I would probably be the first person to hear him mention the idea. If it is convenient, can you tell me what happened at that time? Of course it's okay to tell you. Kitahama nodded and started talking from the beginning. It was the last night in Kathmandu.In the middle of the night, Hase visited Kitahama's hotel room. Chang Gu stood in front of the door carrying a jug filled with raksi.Said: I can't sleep, can you accompany me for a drink? please come in. Kitahin nodded, and Hase walked into the room. Hase sat on a chair, Kitahama sat on the edge of the bed, prepared two mugs, filled them with raksi and toasted first. Brother Beibin.I'm using this as an example.If I said I wanted to climb a mountain over 8,000 meters alone without oxygen, what would you do? Hase, who was sitting on the chair, said such things right from the start. Among the members, Kitahama has the most mountaineering experience.He joined a mountaineering club when he was in college, and once challenged the 7,000-meter peak in India. For Hase, among the staff shooting TV commercials, Kitahama is the most suitable person to talk about his ideas.Kitahama is the one who knows what it's like for a living person to stand alone on the top of an 8,000-meter peak without going around in circles and without oxygen. At the time, Hase seemed genuinely excited about his idea. Kitahama said this to Fukamachi. So, you want to climb Mount Everest?Beibin asked Changgu. In 1980, Messner had climbed Mount Everest alone without oxygen from the side of Tibet. Where do you want to challenge? Chogory K2 Hase named the second highest mountain in the world.After speaking, he smiled. That smile seemed to tell Bei Bin that what he said was a joke, and it seemed that he had accidentally expressed his immature desires, and shyly wanted to laugh it off. Later, the topic became irrelevant, and as a result, Hase stayed in Kitahama's room for about an hour, and went back to his own room when Raksi drank every drop. Two months after returning to Japan, Hase called me and officially told me about K2. can you please make a documentary for me 長谷說：因為我要挑戰無氧單獨登頂K2，所以想請你替我拍用來上電視的影片。 北濱參加那趟遠征，而長谷在那裡死於雪崩。 長谷常雄有沒有可能是在加德滿都和誰見了面，而得到啟發，想出了無氧單獨登頂呢？ 是不無可能，但是和誰？ 倒也不是具體地和誰 我摸不著頭緒。就我所知，他並沒有和誰見面 可是，他有機會和誰見面？ certainly.他有好幾次和工作人員分別行動，而且拍攝沒有長谷先生的場景的日子，他都自由行動。假如有和誰見面的話，大概就是那個時候吧。 你什麼也不知道嗎？ 嗯啊，可是，有一次發生了奇怪的事。 奇怪的事？ 當時剛好是傍晚，他和我一起走在加德滿都市內時，說他看見了誰。 Who did you see? 你問我看見了誰對了，是雪巴人。雪巴族，叫什麼來著的人。我想，他已經有相當的年紀了 老人？ 是的，欸。他的體格也挺結實的。 北濱先生也見到他了嗎？ 哎呀，與其說是見到，倒不如說是看到了。我想，地點是在因陀羅廣場一帶，不曉得那是什麼店，我看到那位老人剛從像店家的建築物門口走出來 北濱說，是長谷先發現了那位雪巴族的老人。 兩人走在因陀羅廣場時，長谷忽然停下腳步。北濱也跟著停了下來。 What's wrong? 即使北濱這麼問，長谷仍目不轉睛地盯著前方。 北濱順著長谷的視線望去，前方就站著那位雪巴族的老人。 感覺是剛從門口走到店前面。 我想，在門口上方，應該畫著大象的畫。 大象？ 大概是迦尼薩 do you know him? 北濱一問，長谷便回答： 他是雪巴族的安伽林。 安伽林？ 一九八五年爬聖母峰時，跟著我們隊伍的雪巴人。 當時的 兩人只有在進行這段對話的短暫時間內，從那名雪巴人安伽林身上移開目光。 再度拉回視線時，安伽林的身影已經從那裡消失了。 他是最後的老虎。長谷對北濱說。 說到老虎，是那支英國隊替雪巴族取的 Yes. 所謂的老虎，是一種稱號。 這種稱號，最早誕生於一九二四年。這一年，英國將第三次聖母峰隊送上喜瑪拉雅山。 也就是馬洛里和厄文以峰頂為目標，就此下落不明的那趟遠征。 這趟遠征攀上八千公尺以上的高度，英國隊稱活躍的四名雪巴人為老虎，從此以後，賦予在喜瑪拉雅山上功績卓越的雪巴人老虎的稱號，以及有虎頭雕花的老虎徽章。 如今，雖然失去了那項老虎徽章的制度，但安伽林是在最後的時期獲得徽章的雪巴人之一。 他現在應該已經超過六十歲了。因為我們遠征的時候，他就已經快六十了 他仍然站在第一線嗎？ 我想，我們的遠征大概是最後一次。 最後一次？ 因為發生了意外。 怎樣的意外？ 企圖攻下西南壁的隊伍發生的意外。不，正確來說，或許不能說是意外。因為在演變成意外之前，羽生先生設法處理了 一九八五年的遠征中，似乎發生了如下的事。 事情發生在設置最終營區C6時。 C6大約設在海拔八千三百五十公尺。包含羽生在內的日籍隊員和兩名雪巴人負責設營。 羽生和安伽林兩人留在設營完畢的C6，繼續做上方的開道工作。 他們在幾個地方進行拉固定繩的工作。在那項工作的過程中，安伽林失足滑落。 他從跡近垂直的岩壁下墜，卡在下方二十公尺處的岩場。 安伽林還活著。從上方叫他也有回應。 然而，他似乎腳受傷了，沒辦法動。 那不是羽生一個人救得了他的狀況。 以Ｚ字形攀爬到安伽林失足的地方，把楔釘打進那裡，垂下登山繩，從那裡下降。到此為止，羽生做得到。 然而，接下來怎麼辦呢？ 安伽林無法靠自己的力量爬上來，所以得由羽生背他。安伽林的體重，加上他身上穿的衣服及用具的重量。即使用具可以丟棄，鞋子和衣服卻不行。光是高山用的登山靴，重量就不輕。還要再加上自己的體重和自己穿戴在身上的用具的重量。 除此之外，這裡是接近八千五百公尺的高度。 從上方以登山繩把安伽林的身體拉上來，大概是不可能的。沒辦法光靠臂力把一個人的重量往上拉二十公尺。 羽生只好背他上來。 非但如此，背上來之後還得再背著他往下爬兩百公尺到C6。 在氧氣只有平地三分之一的狀態下，辦得到這一點嗎？ 就算以無線電求救，請C5的人過來這裡，也要花一天。 所以得在那處沒有東西遮蔽身體的岩棚過一晚。 即使羽生能夠忍耐在那裡露宿，安伽林大概也耐不住吧。而且往下爬到C6還要再花半天。 就地點和狀況而言，無法靠自己的雙腿走動的人，就算別人見死不救也怨不得別人。 總之，羽生以無線電向C5說明狀況，自己以登山繩下降至安伽林所在的岩棚。 安伽林的狀態比想像中更糟。右腳的大腿骨好像骨折了。背部也用力撞上岩石，某處的骨頭似乎有異常。此外，安伽林在發燒。他是強忍發燒，在這種高度行動。 如果在那裡露宿，安伽林肯定會沒命。 羽生割斷多餘的登山繩，用來將安伽林背在背上，攀上那面岩壁，反覆危險的Ｚ字形攀登和下降，總算把安伽林送到了C6。 超人般的體力。 隔天，其餘雪巴人和隊員們從C5上來，把安伽林扛到下方的基地營。 長谷對北濱說，這件事就發生在一九八五年的聖母峰遠征時。 而北濱又把這件事告訴了深町。 至少，長谷似乎確實在加德滿都看見了安伽林。 安伽林 深町在加德滿都見到羽生時，和羽生在一起的男人就叫做安伽林。 7 宮川姍姍來遲，這時已超過約定時間半小時。 抱歉，遲到了。宮川一坐下就說。 我在資料室查了很多資料，比想像中更花時間。 資料室？ Um.不過，先把之前羽生護照的事做個了結吧。 知道什麼了嗎？ 我拜託外務省的朋友，他破例替我調查，所以這件事希望你保密，總之，知道了一些事。 說到這裡，宮川向服務生點啤酒。 羽生的護照，似乎在一九九一年三月過期了 What did you say! 後來，外務省沒有發給他新護照。 那，我在加德滿都遇見的是 羽生大概是非法滯留吧 我想，那肯定是羽生丈二。 既然這樣，不就講得通了嗎？ 什麼講得通？ 羽生不說自己的名字啊。因為一旦被人知道自己在尼泊爾，就不曉得會因為什麼緣故，使得非法滯留的事東窗事發。 宮川說到這裡時，啤酒送上來了。 深町等宮川喝了啤酒，把啤酒杯放在桌上之後，告訴他自己和北濱聊過的事。 宮川聽深町說完，說：安伽林啊 說完，抱起胳膊。 What do you think?Fukamachi asked. 這麼一來，不就出現了長谷和羽生見了面的可能性嗎？ Um. 深町點點頭，說：於是，我發現一件關於長谷和羽生的事。 What's up? 他們倆總是互不相讓。 一個人做什麼，另一個人也會做類似的事。鬼岩就是如此。一開始羽生爬，接著長谷單獨爬。這麼一來，後來羽生又單獨再爬一次鬼岩 大喬拉斯峰的時候也是如此。喜瑪拉雅山的時候也不例外，羽生爬西南壁，長谷爬東南稜。而這次是 這次是？ 長谷企圖挑戰無氧單獨登頂世界第二高峰K2。也就是說 羽生也企圖挑戰某座高峰嗎？ That's right. 他要挑戰什麼？ 無氧單獨登頂聖母峰 深町說到這裡頓了一下，看著宮川。 No way 宮川心裡這麼想，但是沒有說出來。 他緩緩地吸飽氣，然後說：你也那麼認為嗎？ 你也？那，你也在想類似的事嗎？ Exactly. 說完，宮川拿起放在旁邊椅子上的公事包，從中取出一只大型咖啡色信封。 他將那只信封放在桌上，說：你看一下。 深町拿起信封，看了宮川一眼。 What's this? 你不是說，你在調查東西嗎？那就是你要的東西啊。 深町從信封中，拿出一疊以釘書機釘好的紙。 This is 至今不用氧氣，而且單獨登頂喜瑪拉雅山八千公尺高峰的人的名單。 深町翻開那一疊紙，將視線落在那上頭。 8 這地球上人稱巨峰、超過海拔八千公尺的高峰，一共有十四座。 其中，在一九九三年之前，有十一座被人無氧單獨登頂。就次數而言，是十六次。 登頂者有十一人。其中，甚至有人像雷恩霍．梅斯納一樣，兩度單獨完成登頂。 名單列舉如下。 □□□ ▲聖母峰（八、八四八公尺） 一九八〇年八月雷恩霍．梅斯納（義大利），新路線。 一九八八年九月馬克．巴塔爾（法國），BC峰頂二十四小時。 * ▲K2（八、六一一公尺） 一九八六年七月班諾瓦．夏姆（法國），BC︱峰頂二十四小時。 * ▲金城章嘉峰（八、五八六公尺） 一九八三年五月皮耶．貝干（法國），一般路線。 ▲洛子峰（八、五一六公尺） 一九九〇年五月托摩．雪生（斯洛伐尼亞），首度登上南稜。 ▲馬卡魯峰（八、四八六公尺） 一九八一年十月葉吉．庫庫奇卡（波蘭）。 一九八一年馬克．巴塔爾（法國），西稜。 一九八一年皮耶．貝干（法國），南壁。 ▲卓奧友峰（八、二〇一公尺） 一九七八年秋天米察．乍基（伊朗）（登頂遭人懷疑）。 一九八七年冬天佛南度．嘉瑞多（西班牙）（唯一在冬天單獨登頂）。 ▲道拉吉利峰（八、一六七公尺） 一九八一年六月禿博信（日本），一般路線。 * ▲馬納斯盧峰（八、一六三公尺） 無 ▲南迦帕貝特峰（八、一二六公尺） 一九七八年八月雷恩霍．梅斯納（義大利），新路線。 ▲安娜普娜峰（八、〇九一公尺） 無 ▲加歇布魯Ⅰ峰（八、〇六八公尺） 一九八五年艾力克．愛斯可菲（法國），一般路線二十四小時。 * ▲加歇布魯Ⅱ峰（八、〇四七公尺） 一九八五年艾力克．愛斯可菲（法國），一般路線二十四小時。 * ▲布洛德峰（八、〇三五公尺） 一九八四年六月克西斯多福．維利其（波蘭），BC峰頂二十四小時往返。 * 一九八六年八月班諾瓦．夏姆（法國），BC峰頂二十四小時往返。 * ▲希夏邦馬峰（八、〇一三公尺） 無 當中，有打*字記號者，嚴格來說，不算單獨登頂。 因為同一時期，有好幾組登山隊以同一座山頂為目標，單獨登頂者會利用那些隊伍設置的路線。 利用其他隊伍開闢的路線攀登，遠比嚴格規定的單獨登頂輕鬆，但話說回來，也就失去了單獨登頂本身的意義。 此外，馬卡魯峰的馬克．巴塔爾和皮耶．貝干是從攀登途中才變成單獨行動。 再者，雖說是八千公尺高峰，也有像八、〇一三公尺的希夏邦馬峰這種較低者，這些山原來就能以無氧攀登，所以特別強調無氧也沒有意義。 換句話說，就無氧單獨登頂八千公尺高峰而言，有意義的是： ▲一九八〇年雷恩霍．梅斯納，聖母峰 ▲一九八一年葉吉．庫庫奇卡，馬卡魯峰 ▲一九八三年皮耶．貝干，金城章嘉峰 ▲一九九〇年托摩．雪生，洛子峰 這四項紀錄。 宮川帶來的紙上，大致記載著這樣的內容。 9 我做夢也沒想到，居然有這麼多人無氧單獨登頂過八千公尺高峰。 Fukamachi said. Right?我也跟你一樣。調查之後嚇了一跳。宮川仍然抱著胳膊說。 這樣看下來，雷恩霍．梅斯納無氧單獨登頂聖母峰了。你覺得那個心高氣傲的羽生，會打算再一次模仿別人做過的事嗎？ 梅斯納是從西藏這一邊登頂。而馬克．巴塔爾是從尼泊爾這一邊。但是，馬克．巴塔爾進行這趟單獨行動時，有其他幾隊進入聖母峰，巴塔爾利用了那些隊伍開的路線。 你的意思是，這樣嚴格來說，還沒有人從尼泊爾這一邊無氧單獨登頂嗎？ 欸，就是這麼一回事。但是羽生說不定會想出更異想天開的事 For example? 在冬天無氧單獨登頂聖母峰西南壁 宮川說完，緊盯著深町的臉。 No way 但羽生那個男人就是會做出人意料的事。 嗯深町不置可否地對著宮川點頭。 喂，深町，你去一趟吧宮川說。 Um 既然已經走到這一步，總之先去再說。羽生丈二和馬洛里的相機這可是相當棒的新聞唷！ I know 深町像是要說給自己聽似地點頭。