Chapter 6 Part Four Temporary Choice

§SELECTING THE TEAM§ 28 exciting news 1921 Wednesday, June 22, 1921 * No one spoke when George came down to breakfast this morning. He took a seat at the front of the table, flanked by his two daughters.He opened his mouth and asked: What happened? I know, said Claire, but Mommy told me not to tell you. Where's Belleji?George said. Don't be silly, Daddy, you know Belleji can't read. read?George said, looking at Claire more intently.If it were Sherlock Holmes, he would tell us that reading is the first clue. Who is Sherlock Holmes?Claire asked. A great detective, said George: He would look around the room to see if there was anything he could read.Well, could this secret be in the papers?

Yes, Claire said and clapped her hands.And Mommy said, this is something you've been waiting for all your life. Another clue, said George, picking up The Times, which had arrived in the morning, and someone had turned the eleventh page.He smiled as soon as he saw the headlines.Your mother was right. Read that story, Daddy, read that story. Congressman Nancy.Astor (Nancy Astor) made a speech related to women's rights in the House of Commons. George looked up at Ruth and said: "I only hope to have breakfast with your father this morning." Perhaps, said Ruth: but Holmes will tell you that you are wasting your time.Ms Astor's speech was just a smokescreen.

George reads other reports.Ruth smiled when she saw her husband's hands start shaking, but hadn't seen the expression on his face yet Daddy, read that report. George complied.Francis.Sir Young Husband announced last night, he opened his mouth and said: The Royal Geographical Society and the British Mountaineering Association will jointly form the Everest Committee, and he will serve as the chairman of the committee, Geoffrey.Mr. Yang is his deputy.He looked up to see Ruth smiling at him. Keep reading, Daddy, keep reading. The committee's first task was to select a group of mountaineers who would make their first expedition to Mount Everest.

George looked up again, and Ruth was still smiling.He hurried back to read the article before Claire reminded him again.According to the commissioner's knowledge, the people who were consulted to serve as the mountaineering team leader include: George.Mr. Mallory, currently a teacher at Charterhouse, and George.Mr. Finch, an Australian scientist who is currently lecturing at Imperial College London. But no one contacted me.George said. Ruth handed him an envelope that had just arrived that morning, with the arms of the Royal Geographical Society on the back.Still smiling, she said: My dear Watson, the answer is very simple.

Who is Watson?Claire asked. 29 Who is the leader It didn't matter that the five men at the table had no particular affinity for each other; they had been elected to the Everest Council for different reasons. Chairman Francis.Sir Young Husband was in the vicinity of Mount Everest, when he was only forty miles away from Everest, on a mission to coordinate with the Dalai Lama to get the expedition safely across the border into Tibet; the exact content of the relevant text , detailed in an agreement signed earlier that year by the Foreign Secretary, Lord Coulson. Sir Francis sat very erect at the head of the table, his feet not quite touching the floor, for he was hardly five feet one inch high.His thick gray hair, wavy and lined across his forehead, gave him an air of authority that was rarely questioned.

Seated on his left is the committee secretary, Arthur A.Hinks, on behalf of the Royal Geographical Society.Hinks' chief annual salary was the maintenance of the Society's reputation; his forehead was unwrinkled, and the few tufts of hair on his nearly bald head had not yet turned gray.On the table in front of him were several files, and a freshly opened meeting minutes.Some jokers say that he writes the minutes of the meeting the day before the meeting so that he can be sure that everything is going according to plan.But no one would hint like that in front of him. Sitting on Hinks' left is Mr. Ribbon, who was once regarded as an excellent alpine climber.But the cigar he always holds in his hand and the pot belly pressed against the edge of the table suggest that only those with a good memory can recall his mountaineering years.

Opposite him was Commander Ashcroft, a retired naval officer who always had a drink with Hinks before meetings so he could receive instructions on how to vote; his promotion to Lieutenant Colonel position, because he never disobeyed orders.Even the casual person, seeing his weather-beaten face and white beard, would no doubt know where he spent most of his life.To his left, and to the chairman's right, sat a man who, before the Germans stopped him, had hoped to be the first to reach the top of the world. A grandfather clock across the room struck six.Sir Francis was glad not to have to demand order, since the gentlemen at the table were all accustomed to giving and receiving orders.Gentlemen, he said: "It is my great honor to call the first ever meeting of the Everest Council.Following the success of last year's expedition to survey the terrain around the Himalayas, we must now find the team of climbers who will plant the Union Jack on top of the world's tallest mountain.I recently had an audience with the King, and Sir Francis glanced at the portrait of the patron hanging on the wall: assured him that one of his subjects would be the first to stand on top of Mount Everest.

Right, right.Rebben and Ashcroft muttered in unison. Francis paused and looked down at the notes that Hinks had prepared for him.Our first mission tonight is to assign a leader to lead our chosen team to the foothills of the Himalayas and set up base camp at about 17,000 feet.Our second task is to select a mountaineering leader.Gentlemen, for years I've been expecting this man to be Geoffrey.Winthrop.Mr. Yang, but because he was wounded during the war, unfortunately it is not possible for us to do so.However, we can rely on his experience and expertise in mountaineering matters and warmly welcome him to this committee as Vice-Chairman.Yang slightly nodded.I now ask Mr. Hinks to guide us through this meeting on the agenda.

Thank you, Mr. Chairman, Hinks stroked his beard: As you remind us, our first priority is to choose the leader of the expedition.He must be a man of strong character, proven leadership, preferably with experience in the Himalayas.At the same time, he must also have good diplomatic skills in case of any disputes with the locals. agree.A member of the committee said so, and Yang sounded like he was responding to a cue. Gentlemen, Hinks went on: I have no doubt that we have found a man who possesses all these traits, and that is Charles S.Granville.General Charles Granville Bruce.As Members may know, General Bruce was the youngest son of Lord Aberdare and was educated at Harlow School and Sandhurst Military Academy.

Ribbon and Ashcroft immediately agreed again. I therefore have no hesitation in recommending to the committee that we designate General Bruce as the leader of the event and invite him to be one of us. That all sounds very satisfying, says Younghusband: Am I to assume that the committee agrees that Bruce is clearly the man for the job?He looked around the table and saw that all but one of the committee members nodded. Mr Chairman, Yang said: The Royal Geographical Society has made a decision on who should lead the expedition, and it should have done so.However, since I have no knowledge of the selection process, I am eager to know if other candidates have been considered for the position.

Mr. Hinks, perhaps you will want to answer this question.Yang Husband said. Of course, sir, Hinks responded, putting on his half-moon glasses.Several names were brought up for our consideration, but honestly, Young, it soon became apparent that General Bruce was far superior to the others. I hope that answers your question, Yang.said Sir Francis. I hope so too, Mr. Chairman.Yang said. Then perhaps the time has come for the General to join us.said Sir Francis. Hinks coughed. Mr Hinks?Sir Francis said: Have I forgotten something? No, sir, said Hinks, looking over the top of his spectacles.But maybe we should vote on this before General Bruce is elected to the committee? Yes, of course, said Sir Francis: I move that General Bruce be appointed leader of this expedition, and that he join this committee.Anyone willing to second?Hinks immediately raised his hand. Who are the ones in favor?said Sir Francis. The four hands are raised straight up. Disapproved? No hands were raised. Has anyone abstained? Yang raised his hand. Mr. Sinks, before you take your notes on the minutes, I want to ask, Husband Yang said: Do you agree, Yang, that things will go better if we all support General Bruce? Under normal circumstances I would agree with you, Mr Chairman, Sir Francis smiled when Young said so.Still, I feel it would be irresponsible to vote for someone I've never met, no matter how qualified he is. So be it, then, said Sir Francis: I declare that the motion was carried by four votes to none, with one abstention. May I ask General Bruce to join us?Hinks said. Yes, please.said Sir Francis. Hinks rose from his seat, and a porter jumped up to open the door on the other side of the room, standing aside as Hinks entered the waiting room.Three gentlemen sat inside, waiting for someone to call them into the conference room. General Bruce, would you like to join us?Hinks said so without even looking at the other two. Thank you, Hinks.As the general spoke, he stood up vigorously from the chair, and then followed the secretary slowly into the committee room. Welcome, General Bruce.said Sir Francis.Please join us.He added the sentence, and led Bruce to an empty chair. I am glad to tell you that after Bruce had taken his seat, Sir Francis said: 'The committee has voted to invite you to oversee this great adventure, and to join us as a member of the executive committee. Mr. Chairman, I thank you and the committee for their confidence in me, said the general, playing with his monocle before pouring himself a large whiskey.You can be sure that I will do my best to make it worthwhile for you. General, I believe you know everyone on the committee, except our vice chairman, Mr. Yang. Yang observed the general more carefully, wondering if he would be sixty tomorrow.If he was going to take part in the arduous journey to the foothills of the Himalayas, he would have to have a very strong pack animal to carry him. Gentlemen, our next task, said Sir Francis, is to select a mountaineering leader who will take over the expedition once General Bruce has taken it across the border into Tibet and established a base camp there.The man we choose will be responsible for figuring out the route to be taken by the final summit team, possibly including himself, who will make the first summit of Everest.Sir Francis paused.Let us pray that whoever we choose makes this noble adventure a reality. Yang nodded, wondering if any of these people around the table had even the slightest idea of ​​what they were asking those brave young men to do in the name of God. Sir Francis paused again before continuing to add: The British Mountaineering Association has proposed two candidates for our consideration.Maybe now is the right time to ask our vice chair to say a few words and introduce a little bit. Thank you, Mr. Chairman, Yang said: I can tell the committee that, in the opinion of the British Mountaineering Association, both candidates are without a doubt the best mountaineers in the British Isles.The only person of their level is Siegfried.Horford, but unfortunately he was killed at Ypres. Thank you, said the Chairman: I should point out again that if Captain Young hadn't been wounded on the Western Front, there would be no need for this talk. Mr. Chairman, thank you for saying so, but I can assure the committee that these two young men are up to the task. So which of these two gentlemen should we meet first?Sir Francis asked. plum.Mr Mallory.Before anyone offered an opinion, Hinks spoke first. Actually it should be George.mallory.Yang said. Very well, maybe we should ask Mr. Mallory to come in and meet us.Chairman suggested. Hinks got up from his seat again, and the porter opened the door to the waiting room again.Hinks glanced at the two men sitting under the Queen Mary, and he couldn't tell which was which, so he said, "Mr. Mallory, please come with me."George stood up. Good luck, Mallory, said Finch: Don't forget, there's only one friend in there. Hinks stopped, and for a moment he seemed about to answer, but apparently changed his mind after thinking twice, and returned to the conference room without saying a word. Mr Mallory, Sir Francis said as George entered the room: 'It is very kind of you to take time for us.He rose from his chair to shake the candidate's hand.I am sincerely sorry for keeping you waiting.George smiled.I know Mr. Yang has told you why you are here tonight, so maybe you would like to sit down across the table and the committee has a question or two for you. Of course, Sir Francis.George said a little nervously. May I begin, as soon as George is seated, Sir Francis said: Do you doubt that we can accomplish this magnificent attempt, I mean the conquest of Mount Everest. Sir Francis, no one can answer that question with certainty, said George, because only a small group of mountaineers have ever climbed above twenty thousand feet.My brother Traver, an RAF pilot, told me that even planes don't fly up to 29,000 feet, which is the height of Mount Everest. But you'd still like to give it a try, wouldn't you?asked Ribbon, puffing on his cigar, whose notion of challenging mountaineering seemed to be the same as climbing the stairs of his club. Of course I would, and George responded enthusiastically: but since no one has ever attempted to climb Mount Everest, we have no way of knowing what difficulties the mountain might present.for example Mr. Mallory, are you married?Lieutenant Commander Ashcroft asked the questions as written on the paper in front of him. Yes, I am married, sir. Do you have family? two daughters.George replied, a little confused by the question.He couldn't see how Claire and Belleji could possibly help him climb a twenty-nine thousand-foot mountain. Sir Francis glanced at his uncovered pocket watch and asked: "Any questions for Mr. Mallory?" that's all?George thought in disbelief.Are these old people relying on these irrelevant questions to choose between Finch and him?So Finch was right about Hinks and his cronies. I have a question for Mr. Mallory.Hinks said. George smiled.Maybe he misjudged this man. May I be sure, Hinks said: You were educated at Winchester? Yes.With that said, George wondered again how relevant the question might be. And from there you go to Magdalen College in Cambridge, where you study history? Yes.George repeated the answer.He was eager to add: But I had to get over the walls of the academy to make sure they gave me admission.But for some reason, he held back and said nothing. Did you graduate cum laude before you were offered a teaching position at Charterhouse? That's right.Still not sure where the problem might go, George said. Although you were exempt from military service as a teacher, you volunteered, received a commission as an officer in the Royal Artillery, and experienced military action on the Western Front? Yes.said George.He glances at Yang, hoping for a little guidance, only to find that he looks just as confused. Then after the war, you return to Charterhouse as a senior history teacher. George nodded and said nothing. That's all I need to know.Thank you, Mr. Chairman. George glanced at Yang again, and he just shrugged. Any more questions for Mr. Mallory?Sir Francis asked: "Or can we let him go?" The man with the cigar raised his hand.Husband Young said: Well, Mr. Rayburn? If you were chosen to lead the expedition, Mallory, would you purchase your own equipment? I'm sure I can handle it.George hesitated before speaking. Can you also afford your travel expenses to India?asked Ashcroft. George hesitated because he wasn't sure his father-in-law would be willing to sponsor.He finally said: I hope so. Be well behaved, Mallory, said Sir Francis: "There is only one thing left for me to do now, and that is to thank you, and on Hinks' behalf I have scribbled a note in anger, Seymour. To Young Husband.Oh, by the way, are you ready for medical testing if selected? Of course, Sir Francis.said George. Very good, said the Chairman: The committee will contact you shortly to let you know of our decision. George got up from his seat, still a little confused, and walked out of the room without saying a word.As the porter closed the door behind him, George said: "This is even worse than you predicted. I warned you.Finch said. Anyway, please take care not to say anything you will regret, George. Finch had always understood that Mallory meant business when he called him by his first name. What do you mean, old friend?he asked. Take it easy, don't get angry.Try to remember that in the end it will be you and me standing at 27,000 feet preparing for the final summit, and those guys will go back to their clubhouse, sitting in front of the fire and enjoying brandy. What an outstanding talent.Hinks said. I feel the same way, Ribbon said: Exactly the kind of guy we're looking for.Do you agree, General? I do like the look of him, Bruce said, but I guess we'll have to meet another guy before we make a decision. Geoffrey.Yang smiled for the first time. Judging from the data, the other person seems to be less powerful.said Ashcroft. Lieutenant Colonel, you don't see many mountains on paper.Yang struggled to contain his anger. Possibly, Hinks said: "But I think I should point out to the committee that Mr Finch is Australian. According to my previous understanding, Rayburn said: We only consider people from the British Isles. Mr President, I think you will find, said Young, that Australia is still part of the vast empire of His Majesty the King. Indeed, Sir Francis: Perhaps we should see the man before drawing conclusions. Hinks didn't bother getting up again.He just folded his arms and nodded to the porter, who bowed respectfully and opened the door to announce: Mr. Finch. 30 Maverick Mr Finch.The porter repeated, more firmly this time. I've got to leave you here, old friend.Finch said, adding a big grin: That's what I'll tell you when we're a few hundred feet from the summit. Finch walked slowly into the conference room, and sat down at the other end of the table before Sir Francis could say his greetings.Looking at Finch's outfit for this interview, Yang could only smile.Almost as if he intended to piss off a few committee members from the start, he was wearing a casual corduroy jacket, baggy cream flannel trousers, an open shirt and no tie. When Yang mentioned the interview to Mallory and Finch, he never thought to mention the dress code.But to this committee, a candidate's looks are in every way as important as their mountaineering experience.They all stared at Finch in disbelief now.Ashcroft even opened his mouth.Yang leaned back on the chair, waiting for the next big bang. Well, Mr. Finch, Sir Francis said after recovering a little: Let me welcome you on behalf of the committee and ask you if you are ready to answer a few questions. Of course I'm ready, Finch said: That's why I'm here. Very well, said Sir Francis: then we shall begin here.First of all, do you have any doubts about our ability to accomplish this great feat.By that I mean, do you believe you can lead a team to the top of Mount Everest? Yes, I can do it, Finch said: but no one knows how the human body responds to such heights.There's even a scientist who thinks we might explode; while I think that's a silly idea, it does point out that we don't quite know what we're up against. Dude, I'm not sure I understand what you mean.Ribbon said. Let me explain, then, Mr. Ribbon, the old gentleman looked surprised to find that Finch knew his name.What we do know is that the higher the altitude, the thinner the air, which means that each time a mountaineer moves at a high altitude, it will be more difficult than the previous one.This may cause failure. Maybe you include yourself?Hinks said, without looking him in the eye. Yes, indeed, Mr. Hinks.Finch said, turning to look at the secretary. Even so, Ribbon said: You'd still be willing to give it a try. Yes I will.Finch answered firmly.I should warn the committee, however, that the success of this project may depend on the use of oxygen in the last 2,000 feet. I'm not at all sure I'm following your main argument.said Sir Francis. I think above twenty-four thousand feet, Finch replied: We'll find it almost impossible to breathe.I have done some experiments at 15,000 feet, showing that with the aid of oxygen cylinders, it is possible to continue climbing at a speed close to that at low altitudes. But, boy, isn't that cheating?Ashcroft asks: Our goal has always been to test humans against their natural environment without the use of mechanical aids. The last time I heard anyone express the same opinion publicly was in this very building listening to the late Captain Scott.Gentlemen, I am sure I need not remind you how that sad expedition came to an end. By this time, everyone on the committee was staring at Finch as if he were the subject of a Bateman caricature.But he went on without caring. 1 Henry.Bateman (Henry Mayo Bateman, 1887︱1970), a British artist and cartoonist, is best known for a series of cartoons called Men, which depict people in exaggerated and humorous comedy. A reaction to a gaffe or gaffe. Not only was Scott not the first to reach the South Pole, Finch reminded them: You all know very well that he and the rest of the team were wiped out, but Amundsen not only reached the South Pole before Scott, but continued to lead the expedition teams to other unexplored parts of the globe.Yes, I'd love to be the first person to stand on top of the world, but I'd also like to come back to London and lecture on the subject to the Royal Geographical Society. It was a while before someone asked the next question. Mr. Finch, please allow me to ask, Hinks asked carefully: Does Mr. Mallory agree with you on the use of oxygen? No, he disagreed, Finch admitted: he thought he could climb Mount Everest without oxygen, but then again, Mr. Hinks, he was a historian, not a scientist. Are there any other questions for this candidate?asked Sir Francis, who seemed to have made up his mind as to who the committee should choose to be the leader of the expedition. Yes, sir, Hinks said: I just have one or two things I want to clear up, you know, just for the record.Sir Francis nodded.Mr. Finch, could you please tell the committee where you were born and educated? I don't see how it's relevant, Finch replied: I have no idea where Mr. Alsock 2 or Mr. Brown were educated, but I do know they were the first group to fly over Atlantic people, and it's only with the help of that mechanical aid called an airplane that they can do it, Mr. Hinks. 2 John.Alcock (John Alcock, 1892︱1919) and Arthur.Arthur W. Brown (Arthur W. Brown, 1886︱1948) was a British pilot who made the first non-stop flight across the Atlantic Ocean in June 1919.Neither of them is a graduate of prestigious universities such as Oxford or Cambridge. Young tried not to laugh, but he knew very well who the committee would choose to lead the climb. Even so, Hinks said: We at the Royal Geographical Society Excuse me for interrupting, Mr. Hinks, but I think I'm being interviewed for the Everest committee, said Finch: As secretary of the society, you signed minutes of similar meetings. Even so, Hinks repeated, trying to keep his composure: Maybe you'd like to answer my question. Yang considered interrupting, but remained silent, confident that Finch could control the situation in the committee room as he did on the hill. I was born in Australia, but I was educated in Zurich, Finch said, and graduated from the University of Geneva. Ashcroft leaned over the table and whispered to Ribbon: I never knew there was a University in Geneva.I thought there were banks everywhere. And a cuckoo clock.Ribbon said. What is your major?Hinks asked. I'm a chemist, Finch replied: so I know the importance of oxygen at high altitudes. I always thought chemistry was just a hobby, said Ashcroft, loud enough this time: not a career. It's just for kids, isn't it, Colonel Ashcroft?said Finch, looking straight into his eyes. Are you married, Finch?Raben asked, flicking the ashes from the back of the cigar in his hand. Finch said: I am a widower.The answer startled Yang. Sinks put a question mark next to the word marital status. Do you have children?asked Ashcroft. Yes, a son, named Peter. Tell me, Finch, Ribbon said as he cut off the end of another cigar: If you were chosen for this important job, would you be willing to pay for your gear? If you have to."I know the committee has put out an appeal to raise money for the expedition, and I'm assuming some of that money will be used to buy equipment for the climbers," Finch said. What about your travel expenses?Ashcroft pressed. Impossible, Finch replied: If I were on this expedition, I would be out of work for at least six months, and while I don't expect any financial compensation for this loss of income, I don't see any reason why I should be covering my own travel expenses . So you don't call yourself an amateur, buddy? No, sir, I won't say that.I am a professional in everything I do. are you reallyAshcroft said so. Gentlemen, I don't think we need to keep Mr. Finch any longer?Sir Francis hinted, looking around the table. I have further questions for Mr. Finch.Yang couldn't keep silent any longer. Still, you presumably already know everything you need to know in relation to Mr. Finch.Hinks said: "You've known this candidate for many years. I had known him for years, but the rest of the committee hadn't, and I suspect they might have found Mr. Finch's answers to my questions illuminating.Mr. Finch, Yang turned to the candidate: Have you climbed Mont Blanc, the highest mountain in Europe? Climb seven times.Finch replied. What about the Matterhorn? three times. Are there any other major peaks in the Alps? All crawled over.I go to the Alps every year. And what about the tallest mountains in the British Isles? I gave up once I got out of the shorts age. It's all on the record, Mr. Chairman.Hinks said. For those who are willing to take the trouble to read the materials, this is true, Yang retorted calmly: Mr. Finch, can I confirm it?Did you study at Imperial College, University of London after finishing your studies in Geneva? That's right.Finch confirmed. So which subject are you researching? Chemical.Finch replied, deciding to follow Yang's trick. What level of degree did that prestigious institution award you? First Class Honors Degree.Finch said, smiling for the first time. Did you stay at the University of London after graduation?Yang asked. Yes, I stayed, said Finch: I joined the faculty as a chemistry lecturer. Mr. Finch, did you stay in that post after the war broke out?Or joined the army like Mr. Mallory? I enlisted in August 1914, just a few days after war was declared. So what branch of the military did you serve in?Yang asked. As a chemist, Finch looked directly at Ashcroft when he replied: I think I can volunteer for the bomb squad and put my expertise to good use. The bomb squad, when Yang spoke, he emphasized these words one by one: Could you please explain? Of course, Mr. Yang.The Ministry of Defense is looking for someone to defuse unexploded ordnance.Really, it's quite interesting. So you've never seen combat on the front lines?Hinks said. No, Mr. Hinks, I haven't.I found that the German bombs had a tendency to fall across the line on our side rather than theirs. Have you ever received an honor?Hinks asked as he flipped through his notes. Yang smiled.This was Hinks' first mistake. I got an OBE.Finch said in a rather matter-of-fact tone. Well done, Bruce said: That's not something we prorate. Hinks tried to win back, and he said threateningly: I didn't see this medal mentioned in your record. Maybe that's because I don't think place of birth, education, and military performance have much to do with trying to climb the world's highest mountain. Hinks fell silent for the first time. Well, if there is no other question, Sir Francis said: "May I thank Mr. Finch for being present at this meeting.He hesitated before adding: You will be in touch shortly. Finch got up from his seat and nodded to Yang.As he was leaving, Hinks said: One more question.May I confirm this?Like Mr. Mallory, would you be willing to undergo a medical test? Of course I would.After Finch finished speaking, he left the room without saying another word. Weird guy, don't you think?So said Ribbon as soon as the porter closed the door. However, his ability as a high-altitude mountaineer is absolutely beyond doubt.Yang said. Hinks smiled.No doubt you are right, Young, but we at the Royal Geographical Society are always on the lookout for people who climb the ladder. Aren't you being harsh when you say that, Hinks?Mr Francis said: "Consider this man's combat record.He turned to Bruce and asked, General, what do you think of the man you led in battle? I'd rather have him on my side than on the enemy's side, that's for sure, said Bruce: If the wind blows right, I think I can fix him better. What do we do next?asked Sir Francis, looking at Hinks. Mr. Chairman, members should now vote for the mountain leader of their choice.For the convenience of the committee, I have prepared the voting paper, and the committee members can mark the candidates they prefer.Hinks passed the note to everyone on the committee.Once you've made your decision, please hand me your ballot. This process took some time.A faint smile crept across Hinks' face as he counted the ballots; it grew wider with each ballot he opened.Finally, he passes the results to the chairman so he can officially announce them. Five votes for Mallory, with one abstention.When Yang Husband said this, he couldn't hide his surprise. Yang announced: It's me again. But you know both candidates well, said Sir Francis: after all, you put their names before the committee. Maybe I know them too well, Yang replied: They both have different styles, but they are both very good men.After all these years, however, I still can't decide which of them is more likely to accomplish this feat and become the first person to stand on top of the world. I'm pretty sure I would prefer to see who represents the country.Hinks said. Mutters of approval came again, though not from all corners. Is there anything else?Yang Husband asked. We should just confirm the official records, Hinks said: Now that we have appointed a mountaineering leader, we are unanimously willing to accept Mr. Yang's recommendation of the remaining eight members of the mountaineering team. 是的，當然，佛蘭西斯爵士說：畢竟在委員會成立前，我和英國登山協會的協議就是這樣。 艾許克羅夫特提出意見：我希望他們之中沒有太多人和那位芬奇是同類。 不用擔心這個，辛克斯低頭看著名單時說：除了芬奇以外，所有人都來自牛津或劍橋。 唔，想必那差不多可以做出結論了。佛蘭西斯爵士說。 一抹微笑回到辛克斯的唇邊。主席先生，還有件小事情，和登山隊未來成員都同意接受的醫學檢測有關。相信您會希望在下個月再度召開委員會前解決那件事。 對我來說很合理，佛蘭西斯爵士說道：毫無疑問，你會處理所有細節吧，辛克斯先生。 當然，主席先生。 31 名單上的某個名字 辛克斯獨坐在俱樂部裡，緩緩啜飲著白蘭地，同時等候著他的客人。他知道藍普頓（Lampton）不會遲到，不過在那位好醫生出現之前，他需要一點時間構思。 過去，藍普頓為皇家地理學會進行了好幾次需要細心處理的委託，不過他的下一個任務必須以最小心的態度處理，這樣才不會有任何人懷疑辛克斯個人也牽涉在內。辛克斯回想起馬基維利的話，露出微笑：一旦你了解一個人的野心何在，並且能予以協助，他就會對你銘感五內。他很清楚藍普頓的抱負之一是什麼。 一位侍者領著藍普頓醫生走進圖書室，辛克斯從座位上起身。當他們在房間的隱密角落坐定，省略了平常的閒聊後，辛克斯說起他準備多時的開場白。 我看到你的名字在俱樂部的會員考慮名單上了，藍普頓。一位侍者把兩杯白蘭地擺在他們之間的桌子上時，他說道。 確實是，辛克斯先生。藍普頓回答，緊張地拿起杯子把玩著。不過話說回來，有誰不想成為布鐸俱樂部的會員呢？ 你會成為會員的，親愛的孩子。辛克斯說：事實上我可以告訴你，我已經把我的名字加到你的支持者名單上了。 謝謝你，辛克斯先生。 我認為你可以省掉那個先生了。畢竟你很快就會成為這個俱樂部的成員，務必叫我辛克斯。 謝謝你，辛克斯。 辛克斯掃視了房間一圈，確認沒有人會偷聽到他們的對話。老弟，如你所知，俱樂部的規矩之一，就是你不能在晚餐時間討論商業事宜。 這條規矩真是好得不得了，藍普頓說：只希望這條規矩也適用於聖湯瑪斯醫院。我常想告訴同事，我最不想在午餐時間談論的，就是醫院裡發生了什麼事。 確實如此，辛克斯說：不過提醒你，這個規矩並不適用於圖書室這裡，所以讓我在最嚴格的保密條件下告訴你，學會希望能指示你代表本會進行一項極端重要的科學研究。我必須強調，這是最機密的事情。 辛克斯，你可以信賴我。 非常好，不過首先給你一點背景知識。你可能已經在《泰晤士報》上讀到，學會正計畫送出一批精選的登山家到西藏，目的是要嘗試爬上埃佛勒斯峰頂。 老天啊。 這麼說還滿貼切的。辛克斯這麼說，兩個人都大笑出聲。有了這個概念，我們希望指定你對這十二位男士進行一連串的測試，他們是團隊中九個位置的考慮對象。很顯然的，最重要的事就是你的專業意見：對於在海拔兩萬九千呎的高空生存，他們的準備有多充分。 那是埃佛勒斯峰的高度嗎？ 更確切地說，是兩萬九千零二呎。辛克斯這麼說：現在，當然用不著多說，如果某人在某個特定海拔就會崩潰，皇家地理學會當然不能冒險送這樣的人上路。那對學會來說是時間與金錢的浪費。 確實如此，藍普頓表示贊同：我有多少時間可以進行這些測試？ 我必須在三週內回報給委員會。辛克斯說著，從一處內側口袋中拿出一張紙：這裡有英國登山協會呈報的十二個名字，只有其中九位會成為登山隊成員踏上旅程，所以請大方地刪掉任何三位不夠格的人。他把那張紙遞給他的客人，這樣他才能更仔細檢視那些名字。 藍普頓快速讀過那張名單。我看不出有什麼理由，會讓我的報告不能在兩週內出現在你的桌子上。這是假設所有的登山家都有空。 他們全都有空。辛克斯說道。他停頓了一下，然後再度環顧這個房間。藍普頓，我納悶的是，我可不可以跟你談一件很機密的事情？ 請不要拘束，老友。 你應該知道，如果你發現某位應徵者並不具備這種繁重遠征任務所需的身體特質，委員會並不會因此感到不悅。 我完全了解。藍普頓說道。 辛克斯靠向桌子對面，把手指放在名單上的第二個名字旁。 32 難分軒輊的勇者 一百一十二一百一十三一百一十四。芬奇終於倒在地板上。喬治繼續做，不過在他放棄之前，也只設法多做了七下，總共一百二十一下伏地挺身，破了他個人紀錄。他平躺在地板上，擡起頭對著芬奇笑了；芬奇總是會激發出他身上最好的一面。或者，這是最壞的一面？ 藍普敦醫生在筆記板上列出一排數字，記錄這十二位男士各自達到的總體成績。他注意到馬洛里和芬奇在每項測驗中都是前五名，他們之間可供選擇的差異極少。他已開始納悶，他能想出什麼樣可能的理由來剔除芬奇的資格，畢竟能和他競爭這個團體中最合適成員地位的，顯然只有一個對手。 藍普敦站在體育館中央，要求這十二位男士在他身邊集合。我要恭賀你們每一位，他說道：在未受傷的狀態下做完了全套測試的第一部分，這表示你們夠資格進入我的酷刑室。他們全都笑出聲了。藍普頓懷疑，他們之中有多少人在一個小時內還笑得出來。請跟我來，紳士們。他帶領他們走過一條長長的磚造走廊，直到來到一個沒有標記的門前。他打開門鎖，然後踏進一個方形的大房間；喬治從沒看過相同形式的房間。 紳士們，藍普頓說：你們現在站在一個由海軍委託製造的減壓室裡，在戰爭期間，這裡是用來測驗潛水艇員在海水表面下的長期耐受能力。這個房間已經過改造，以便複製出某種環境條件，我們相信是你們攀登埃佛勒斯峰時可能碰到的。 讓我告訴你們，現在你們眼前所見的某些設備是什麼。房間中央那座電扶梯，和你們穿梭於倫敦地下鐵時熟悉的電扶梯不能說不像。出席者中有一、兩位不願承認自己從來沒搭過地下鐵，他們保持沉默。不過，當中還是有個重大差別。藍普頓繼續說：我們的電扶梯並不是用來幫助你們的；正好相反，它的目標是阻礙你們。當電扶梯朝下移動時，你必須往上爬，你必須花上一些時間才能適應這種移動方式。務必記得一個重點：這不是賽跑，而是耐力測試。這座電扶梯的移動速度大約每小時五哩，你們要嘗試在上面停留六十分鐘。 從你們之中一、兩位的臉部表情可以看出，你們覺得奇怪，為何如此大費周章。藍普頓繼續講：畢竟，對於你們這種經驗和能力的男人來說，連續爬山數小時而不休息，不是什麼不尋常的事。然而，在接下來六十分鐘裡，你們還必須應付另外一、兩件事。這個房間現在是在室溫下，而且大氣也調節到和海平面高度大致相近。到了這一小時即將結束時，你們之中還能以這種步調行動的人，即將體驗到預計會在兩萬九千呎高空遭遇的氣候條件，屆時室溫會掉到零下四十度。正因為這個理由，我要求你們的穿著得像爬山時一樣。 我另外又帶來一個小小的挑戰。看看遠處的牆壁，你會看到兩個很大的工業用電風扇：我的造風機器。我向你們保證，紳士們，這不會是順風，十二個人裡有一、兩位發出了緊張的笑聲。我一打開這兩臺電風扇，它們就會盡全力把你們從電扶梯上吹下來。 最後，你們會注意到有幾張橡膠墊子、毯子和桶子擺在房間各處，一旦你們被迫離開電扶梯，你們就能休息，讓自己的身體暖和起來。我確定我不必解釋為什麼電扶梯尾端擺著桶子。這次沒有人笑了。在你們左邊的牆上有一座鐘，一個顯示室溫的溫度計，還有一個指出大氣壓力的高度計。我現在會給你們一點時間熟悉一下電扶梯的運作方式。我建議你們就位時彼此相隔兩步。如果你發現很難維持自己的步調，就移動到右邊，讓你後面的人能走到你前面去。Have any questions? 窗子的另一邊是什麼？諾頓（Norton）發問了，他是唯一一位喬治過去從沒見過的候選人；他是布魯斯將軍推薦的一位士兵。 那是控制室的位置。我的工作人員會從那裡觀察你們的進展。我們可以看到你們，不過你們看不到我們。等這一個小時結束後，電扶梯會停下來，風扇也會停止，溫度會回到正常狀態。那時候，會有幾位醫生和護士與你們會合，並且進行一些測試，評估你們的恢復速度。現在，紳士們，能不能請你們在電扶梯上就位。 芬奇立刻跑上最上面的臺階，喬治在他身後兩步，桑莫維爾又在喬治後方兩步遠。 電扶梯會在蜂鳴器響起時開始移動，藍普頓說：蜂鳴器會在十分鐘後再響起一次，那時房間裡的大氣會等同於海拔五千呎的狀態，溫度也會降到零度。蜂鳴器在整個測試期間會繼續每十分鐘響起一次。大電風扇會在四十分鐘後啟動。如果這個小時的結尾還有人站得住，我再重複一次，他們會經歷零下四十度的低溫，以及兩萬九千呎高空的大氣。祝你們好運，紳士們。藍普頓離開房間，關上他背後的門。他們全都聽到鑰匙在鎖孔裡轉動的聲音。 十二個男人緊張地站在電扶梯上，等著蜂鳴器響起。喬治從鼻子深吸了一口氣，讓肺部充滿空氣。他避開不看在他上方兩步的芬奇，也不看在他後方兩步的桑莫維爾。 你們準備好了嗎，紳士們？藍普頓醫生的聲音透過擴音器說道。蜂鳴器響了，電扶梯開始移動，在喬治看來，這個速度相當和緩。十分鐘內，十二個登山家都保持在自己的位置上。蜂鳴器第二次響起時，喬治沒意識到太多改變。電扶梯繼續以同樣的速度移動著，牆上的指示器指出氣溫已掉到零度，大氣條件等同於五千呎高度。 二十分鐘後，蜂鳴器第三次響起，每個人都還在原來的位置。三十分鐘時，他們已來到一萬五千呎高度，溫度則是零下十度。還是沒有人敗下陣來。肯萊特（Kenwright）是第一個站到右邊去的，他慢慢往下移動，和同僚們擦身而過，最後停在電扶梯底部。他奮力掙扎著想搆到最近的一張墊子，然後重重倒在地上；他甚至花了幾分鐘時間，才有力氣把毯子蓋在自己身上。藍普頓在他名字上劃了一條線。他不會成為前往西藏的團隊成員。 芬奇和馬洛里在電扶梯頂端維持著同樣速度，桑莫維爾、布拉克和歐岱爾緊追在後。直到蜂鳴器第五次響起，一陣冷風迎面撞上臉以前，喬治幾乎忘記了造風機器的事。他想揉揉眼睛，不過他知道，如果他真的在兩萬九千呎高山上拿掉護目鏡，就有發生雪盲的危險。他似乎看到前面的芬奇踉蹌了一下，但很快就恢復了。 喬治沒看到後面幾步的那個可憐人，他拿掉了護目鏡，結果在陣陣冷風吹襲臉上時連連倒退，不久，四肢著地趴在電扶梯底部的地板上，遮著眼睛嘔吐。藍普頓又劃掉另一個去不了印度的人名。 蜂鳴器在第五十分鐘響起時，他們已到達兩萬四千呎高度，氣溫是零下二十五度。這時只剩下馬洛里、芬奇、歐岱爾、桑莫維爾、布拉克和諾頓還站得住腳。當他們抵達兩萬五千呎時，布拉克和歐岱爾加入其他人的行列，躺在墊子上，精疲力竭，完全沒力氣觀察四個倖存者的進展。藍普敦醫生看了一眼時鐘，然後在歐岱爾和布拉克的名字上做了記號。 桑莫維爾設法撐過了五十三分鐘才跌落電扶梯，然後四肢著地倒在地上。他試圖勇敢地走回電扶梯上，不過很快又被拋下來。一會兒後，諾頓也跪在他旁邊了。藍普頓在他們的名字旁邊寫下五十三分鐘和五十四分鐘。接著，他把注意力轉向看起來最堅定不移的兩個人。 藍普頓把溫度調低到零下四十度，把大氣壓力調整到兩萬九千呎的水準，不過兩個倖存者還是拒絕讓步。他把風扇的風速開到一小時四十哩。芬奇絆了一下，心裡很後悔他搶占了頂端的臺階，因為現在他正好護著馬洛里免於強風的全力吹襲。不過就在他看似即將被擊敗時，他還是設法以某種方式恢復過來，找到足夠的力量，跟上那無休無止的電扶梯。 時鐘顯示這兩位登山家只需再撐過三分鐘。那正是喬治決定放棄時。他感覺自己的腿像一堆軟果凍；他凍僵了，喘息著渴求空氣，而且也開始落後了。他接受了勝利屬於芬奇。接著，芬奇毫無預警地往後退了一步，再一步，然後是第三步，這反而讓喬治更有決心要撐完最後九十秒，直到蜂鳴器最後一次響起為止。當電扶梯終於停下來時，他和芬奇跌入彼此的懷抱中，就像一對腿軟的醉鬼。 歐岱爾拖著身體從墊子上站起來，搖搖晃晃地走過去恭賀他們。桑莫維爾和諾頓也在一會兒後加入他們。如果布拉克可以爬得過去，他也會這麼做，不過他仍全身趴在毯子上，喘息著想吸入更多空氣。 等到造風機器關上，海拔回到海平面水準，溫度也升高到常溫，房間的門鎖打開了，十來位醫生和護士湧進房間，開始對參與者進行測試，測量他們的恢復速度。不到五分鐘內，喬治的心跳就回到一分鐘四十八次，而芬奇正在房間裡閒晃，和那些還站得住的同僚們聊天。 藍普頓醫生還在控制室裡。他知道他得告訴辛克斯，馬洛里跟芬奇很顯然是最令人印象深刻的候選人，老實說，在他們兩人之間根本無從選擇。他確信，如果有人可能抵達兩萬九千呎高處，站在世界的頂端，這個人一定是他們兩者之一。 33 淚水 露斯接起電話時，立刻認出電話另一頭的聲音。 早安，校長，她說著：對，他出門一會兒了不，他從來不開車去學校，校長，他總是用走的不到五哩，通常會花五十分鐘左右。再見，校長。 喬治感覺幾滴雨水落在前額，因而撐起那把老舊的雨傘。他試著集中心神在今天早上初五級的上課內容，不過這麼做的原因倒不是關於伊麗莎白時期人士他有什麼新鮮話題可說。他納悶地想，德瑞克船長會怎麼處理過去十年一直糾纏著他的問題。 上星期的醫學檢測後，他尚未從埃佛勒斯峰委員會接到任何消息。當然，晚上回家時，或許可能會有一封信在等著他。甚至在《泰晤士報》上也可能會提到這次的團隊遴選。若是如此，安德魯．歐蘇立文一定會在早上的休息時間就告訴他。不過，看過芬奇在醫學測試中的英勇表現後，如果最後委員會選擇他擔任登山領隊，喬治也不會抱怨。當楊鉅細靡遺地告訴他，芬奇和辛克斯在委員會會議上的唇槍舌戰時，他哈哈大笑，希望當時能親眼目睹那場交鋒。 儘管他不同意芬奇在高海拔使用氧氣的意見，但他的確贊成，如果希望掌握任何成功機會，他們必須用比過去更專業的方式來進行整個行動，並從南極慘劇所犯的錯誤中學到教訓。 他的思緒轉向露斯，想著她一路走來多麼支持他。過去一年過得平靜而快樂。他們有幸擁有兩個可愛的女兒，以及大多數男人都會羨慕的生活方式。他真的想旅行到地球的另一頭，透過信件和照片來看著他的孩子長大嗎？不過，為他內心深處的兩難殘酷地找到結論的，也是露斯；當時她隨口問喬治，如果他剛上完一堂初五級的課，而安德魯卻指著《泰晤士報》上喬治．芬奇站在世界巔峰的照片，他會有什麼感覺？ 喬治經過標示接下來還有三哩路的路標時，看了一眼手錶，露出微笑。為了有點變化，他預定時間提前了幾分鐘。他不喜歡在朝會時遲到，露斯也總是盡一切努力，確保他每天早上都準時出門。校長總是在時鐘敲響九下時走進大堂，如果喬治晚到三十秒，就必須在禱告聲中溜進後面。這時大家都低著頭，不過校長從來不會低下頭，而且在這個狀況下，那些初五級學生也不會低著頭。 當他走進學院巷時，喬治很驚訝地留意到，四周的學生和老師寥寥無幾。更讓人困惑的是，當他到達學校大門時，一個人也看不到。這是期中假期嗎？或許是星期天？不，露斯會記得的，也會提醒他穿上最好的西裝。 他走過空曠的方型庭院，朝主要禮堂走去，不過裡面卻沒傳出任何聲音。沒有校長，也沒有音樂，甚至連一聲咳嗽也沒有。或許他們都低著頭在祈禱？他慢慢轉動巨大的鍛鐵把手，希望不要發出任何聲音，推開門後往裡窺探。禮堂裡擠得滿滿的，每個學生都坐在座位上。校長站在舞臺上，其他的教職員則坐在校長身後。喬治更加迷惑了畢竟九點的鐘聲還沒響。 一個男孩子喊道：他來了！大廳裡的每個人整齊畫一地起身，開始鼓掌歡呼。 先生，做得好。 真是了不起的勝利。 你會成為第一位攻頂的人！當他在中央通道上朝舞臺前進時，某人對他喊道。 校長親切地和喬治握手，說道：我們全都為你感到非常驕傲，馬洛里。接著等到男孩們重新坐下後，他宣布：現在請大衛．艾金頓（David Elklngtcm）對大家演講。 那位班長從前排位子站起來，走上舞臺。他打開一份紙卷，然後開始朗讀： □□□ Nos，scholae Carthusianac et pueri et magistri，te Georgium Leigh Mallory salutamus. Dilectus ad ducendum agmen Britannicum super Everest，tantos honores ad omnes Carthusianos iam tribuisti. Sine dubio，O virum optime ，et maiorem gloriam et honorem in scholam tuam ，in universitatem tuam et ad patriam. （我們，查特豪斯的學生和老師們，向喬治．李．馬洛里致敬。您獲選領導英國的埃佛勒斯峰攀登壯舉，以此榮耀了所有查特豪斯人。先生，我們毫不懷疑，您會為您的學校、您的大學和您的國家帶來更進一步的榮耀和名譽。） 班長鞠躬行禮後，把卷軸呈給喬治。整個學校的人再度站起身來，讓他們的資深歷史老師知道他們確實的感受。 喬治低下頭。他不希望讓那些初五級學生看見他的淚水。 34 力保生死與共的伙伴 請容我歡迎你成為委員會的一員，馬洛里，佛蘭西斯爵士親切地說：還有，我或許可以加上這一句：我們很高興你認為能接受登山領隊的角色。 說得對，說得對！That's right, that's right! 謝謝您，佛蘭西斯爵士。George said so.當他在喬佛瑞．楊和布魯斯將軍之間就座時，又補充說：能受邀帶領這樣一群優秀的伙伴，是很大的榮譽。 你會讀到布魯斯將軍的報告，楊赫斯本說：其中描述了這個隊伍將如何從利物浦旅行到埃佛勒斯峰山麓丘陵。或許你可以建議委員會，等到建立基地營後，你打算如何安排各項事務的進行。 主席先生，我已興趣盎然地拜讀過布魯斯將軍的報告，喬治說：而且我同意他的評估，徹底又詳細的事前準備將決定整個探險行動的成敗。我們一定不能忘記，沒有一個英國人曾靠近埃佛勒斯峰四十哩內，更不要說是在較低的山坡建立基地營了。 這個看法相當合理，布魯斯承認，他的單片眼鏡掉了下來：不過我可以告訴委員會，在我寫下我的報告後，我和外交部的寇森勳爵會談過，他向我保證，他會盡一切努力，確保一條可以安全迅速通過邊境、進入西藏的路線。 真是表現得非常好。瑞本說著彈掉雪茄尾端的一點菸灰。 不過就算能平安越過邊界，喬治說：委員會必須了解，沒有人類曾攀爬到兩萬五千呎以上的地方，我們甚至不知道在那樣的高度是否可能生存。 我必須說，主席先生，艾許克羅夫特說：我看不出兩萬五千呎和兩萬九千呎之間有多大差別。do not you know? 就我自己來說，我不知道，喬治說：因為我從來沒有站在兩萬五千呎的高處，更不要說是兩萬九千呎了。不過如果我這麼做了，中校，我會讓您知道的。 馬洛里，佛蘭西斯爵士說：眼前既然沒有人比你更了解登山隊伍，我們很有興趣聽聽看，你認為誰會陪伴你進行最後攻頂。 主席先生，在我知道誰最能適應那些環境條件以前，我沒辦法回答這個問題。不過如果我要做個事前預測，我會把歐岱爾和桑莫維爾辛克斯聽到這裡，臉上掠過一絲微笑排入後勤支援隊伍。至於最後攻頂的當然人選，我只考慮過一個人，那就是芬奇。 圍坐在桌邊的人都沒講話。瑞本點燃了另一支雪茄，艾許克羅夫特則瞪著他的議程表。只剩下佛蘭西斯爵士能打破這一陣尷尬的沉默。他轉向辛克斯說道：不過我認為 是的，主席先生，辛克斯說。這位祕書看著桌子對面的喬治說道：恐怕那不可能了，馬洛里。 Why is it impossible?asked George. 因為芬奇不會是登山隊的成員。有兩位英國登山協會的推薦人選在醫學檢測中沒過關。其中一個是肯萊特，另一個是芬奇。 這一定是出了什麼錯，喬治說：在我登山的這些年來，我幾乎沒遇到過身體比他更強健的人。 我可以向你保證，馬洛里，沒有出錯，辛克斯說著從他的檔案裡抽出一張紙。我手上有藍普頓醫生的報告，其中顯示芬奇鼓膜有破洞，藍普頓相信這可能導致暈眩和嘔吐，會讓他無法在非常高的海拔長時間攀登。 真是遺憾，藍普頓醫生並沒有和芬奇並肩站在白朗峰或馬特洪峰頂上，楊說：要是他有這種經驗，他就能夠記錄下來，芬奇連鼻血都沒流。 有可能是那樣，辛克斯說：不過 別忘了，辛克斯先生，喬治說：芬奇是唯一一位對於氧氣用途有廣泛知識的隊員。 可是如果我說錯了請糾正我，馬洛里，在我們上一次會面時，你反對使用氧氣這個想法。辛克斯說道。 您是對的，而且我現在還是這麼想，喬治說：不過要是我到達兩萬七千呎高的時候，發現隊員中沒有一個能再往前邁進一步，我可能就願意重新考慮我的立場。 諾頓和歐岱爾也曾表示，他們相信在最後攻頂時，不會有機會證明使用氧氣的必要。 諾頓和歐岱爾從來沒有爬到高於一萬五千呎的地方，楊說：他們可能會被迫改變心意。 馬洛里，或許我應該向你指出，辛克斯說：芬奇的健康狀況並不是影響學會決定的唯一因素。 這不該由學會來做的決定，楊憤怒地說：佛蘭西斯爵士和我都同意，由英國登山協會提名登山隊成員，委員會不會質疑登山協會的推薦。 先前可能是這樣子，辛克斯說：但我們後來發現，當我們為了登山隊領隊的職位面試芬奇先生時，他對委員會說謊。 馬洛里和楊一時都沒說話，讓辛克斯有機會不受干擾地繼續講下去。 瑞本先生問芬奇是否已婚時，他告知委員會他是鰥夫。楊點點頭。實際上卻不是這樣，我很失望地發現這件事，因為芬奇太太寫信向我保證她還活得好好的。辛克斯從他的檔案裡抽出一封信。委員會可能希望把她這封信的最後一段留在紀錄中。他很嚴肅地補上這句話。 馬洛里嘴唇一癟。不過楊看起來並不驚訝。 喬治和我在大約兩年前離婚了，辛克斯讀道：而且我很遺憾地必須告訴貴委員會，有第三者介入其中。 真是個下流東西。艾許克羅夫特說道。 不是可以信賴的男人。瑞本說。 老實說，喬治無視於他們兩人，說道：如果我們真的要設法爬到兩萬七千呎高度，我的登山伙伴是離過婚的男人、鰥夫甚至重婚者都不會太重要，因為我可以向你保證，辛克斯先生，沒有人會注意到他有沒有戴婚戒。 讓我想辦法了解你在說什麼，馬洛里，辛克斯脹紅了臉說道：你是在告訴這個委員會，只要你能夠到達山頂，你願意和任何人爬埃佛勒斯峰的最後兩千呎？ 對，任何人。喬治毫不猶豫地說。 甚至是一個德國人？辛克斯輕聲問道。 甚至惡魔都行。George replied. 我說，老弟啊，艾許克羅夫特說：你不覺得這樣不太恰當嗎？ 比起在離家五千哩遠的地方，因為沒有正確的登山伙伴而落得必死無疑的下場，這就沒那麼不恰當了。 馬洛里，我相當高興能在會議紀錄裡記下你強烈的感受，辛克斯說：但我們對芬奇的決定已經確定了。 喬治安靜了一會。那麼辛克斯先生，你也可以在會議紀錄上記下，我辭去登山領隊和委員會成員的職位。圍坐在桌邊的人中有好幾個同時開了口，不過喬治不予理會，又補上一句：要離開我的妻小六個月以上，參與一項因為剔除最佳隊員而失敗的任務，我不願意這麼做。 佛蘭西斯爵士必須提高音量，才能在接下來的騷動中讓別人聽到他說什麼。紳士們，紳士們，他用一枝鉛筆敲敲他的白蘭地酒杯側面，然後說：顯然我們現在碰上僵局，而且只能用一種辦法解決了。 主席先生，您有什麼想法？辛克斯狐疑地說道。 我們必須