Chapter 10 Part Eight Ascension Day

§ASCENSION DAY§ 54 Her beauty took my breath away again □□□ My dearest Ruth: The only purpose of the long sea voyage was to remind me what a fine company of lads I had the honor of leading.I think too often of the sacrifices I have made, and too little of the fine men who are willing to join me in this treacherous adventure, and the trials and tribulations they must have endured with their friends and relatives over the past two years. Although I was skeptical at first, Shandi.Erwin is a very remarkable person.He was only twenty-two, but he had a shrewd northern mind, planted firmly on his broad shoulders, and the coincidence of both of us being born in Birkenhead would, in a novel, have Difficult to accept.

Of course, I'm still anxious about his inexperience in climbing over 5,500 feet, but I must admit that he's adjusted far better than any of us under the guidance of the awesome General Bruce. Passengers witnessed all this during the morning physical training.Bruce was quite happy to continue as our conductor, but he still had no intention of stepping down and becoming a member of the orchestra himself. I also have to confess that Hinks isn't exaggerating Irwin's chemistry skills; he's on par with Fincher in that regard.Norton and Ordell were still reluctant to support the idea of ​​using oxygen, let alone agree to strap those cumbersome oxygen cylinders to their backs.In the end, will they admit that we can't make it to the top without this heretical aid from hell, or will we continue to be divine amateurs and be doomed because of it, as Fincher said?All this only time will tell.

(March 12, 1924) □□□ The ship berthed at Bombay on the 20th of March, and we immediately boarded a train for Darjeeling, where we picked ponies and porters.General Bruce worked another miracle, and the next morning we set off on the long journey to Tibet with sixty ponies and over a hundred porters.Before leaving Darjeeling in the toy train, we dined with the new Governor-General, Lord Lytton, and his wife, but since Finch was absent, there is nothing interesting to report, except the fact that Now: Irving has shown a non-committal affection for the Governor's daughter, Linda, and Mrs Lipton seems happy to encourage him.

A letter from my sister Mary was waiting for me at the embassy.It was a stroke of luck that her husband was stationed in Ceylon, for she was able to give us advance warning when the rainy season was approaching, as it took about ten days to cross that island before the rainy season came upon us. The next morning we embarked on the eighty-mile journey to the border without incident.Tragically, General Bruce came down with dysentery and had to return to Darjeeling.I'm afraid we won't see him again.He took his bathtub, twelve boxes of cigars, and half the box of wine and champagne with him, but graciously left us the other half, not to mention all the gifts he carefully selected for Zong Ben, which was We send it when we present the supporting documents at the border.

Lieutenant Colonel Norton, the general's second-in-command, had taken over his duties.As you may recall, Norton was the man who once held the world altitude record for twenty-four hours before Finch rudely wrestled the title from him.Although he never brought up the subject, I knew Norton was keen to get the record back, and I must admit that once we reached 27,000 feet, he would be the clear choice to accompany me to the summit, as long as he agreed to use oxygen.However, Somerville was hesitant to use oxygen, so he might be an option in the end, as I would not consider trying to climb the last 2,000 feet with Ordell.

Even though we were all wearing our oldest boots and cheap watches from Mumbai, we crossed the border in this condition.However, we still sent Zong Ben a large number of gifts from Harold, Funan, Davidoff and Locke, including a black opera cane with a silver head of the king, which I assured him was from His Majesty himself one's gift. We were all taken aback when Zongben told us that he was disappointed to hear that General Bruce had fallen ill, as he was looking forward to seeing his old friend again.I couldn't help noticing that he was still wearing the General's open pocket watch and chain, and that my Winchester alumni tie was gone.

□□□ Passing Phanla this morning, the clouds suddenly parted and we caught sight of the imposing height of Mount Everest dominating the skyline ahead.Her sheer beauty once again took my breath away.A wise man would of course resist her seductive charms and turn back immediately, but like Euripides's Siren, she draws people toward her rocky and unpredictable realm. . As we climbed higher and higher, I paid particular attention to Erwin, who seemed as acclimatized to the conditions as any of us.Then again, I sometimes forget that he is sixteen years younger than me. □□□ This morning, with Mount Everest in the background, we held a ceremony in honor of Nima and six other Sherpas who lost their lives on the previous expedition.This time we must reach the summit, if for no other reason than to honor their memory.

I just wish Nima was standing by my side right now because I would not hesitate to ask him to join me for the final summit because of course it must be right to have a Sherpa standing on his own summit first not to mention, it was the sweetest revenge for Hinks for his unscrupulous behavior on Memorial Lecture Night.But it is a pity that no Sherpa will reach the top of the mountain this time, because I have tried it among his compatriots, but I have not found anyone who can match Nima. We finally reached base camp on April 29th, and to be fair to Hinks it has never been easy for me and everything I asked for was already in place.This time we won't waste precious time setting up and tearing down camp, moving equipment up and down hills all the time.I have been assured by Mr. Hazard (an ominous name for a man who is in charge of our day-to-day life) that the 3rd Battalion has been established at 21,000 feet Already, there are eleven of the best Sherpas covering.Under Brack's command, awaiting our arrival.

We must not forget that Noel's £8,000 made this possible, and he's shooting anything that moves.The final documentary produced by this expedition must rival the Birth of a Nation. Note 1: Hazard means accident, danger, cause of danger, etc. Note 2: Birth of the Nation, a silent feature film (190 minutes long) shot in 1915, director DW Griffith is honored as the father of American film.The whole film describes the changes faced by the two northern and southern families during the American Civil War, and uses this to describe the process of the country's gradual transition from war to reunification.

□□□ I am writing this letter from my little tent at base camp.In a few minutes, I'll be having dinner with my teammates, and Norton will hand over command responsibility to me.I will then brief the team on my plans to climb Mount Everest.So, my dearest, the great adventure begins again.This time I am more confident in our success rate.But when I conquer that magnificent object of obsession, I'll push a button, and before long I'll be by your side.From this sentence, you can deduce that I am currently rereading H. G．Wells' The Time Machine.Even if I can't press the button he made up, I'll do everything I can to get back as soon as possible, because I don't want to be away from you for any longer.As I promised, I'm still going to keep your picture on the summit

55 Cricket in the snow Thursday, May 1, 1924 * At this time there were eight people.Gentlemen, to Your Majesty the King.Lieutenant Colonel Norton stood up from the front seat of the table, raised his tin mug and said. The others in the team immediately stood up and said in unison: "Respect the king." Please stand still, George said: Gentlemen, respect Everest, Mother Earth Goddess.The whole team raises their mugs for the second time.Outside the camp, the Sherpas faced the mountain and prostrated themselves on the ground. Gentlemen, George said: You can smoke now. The team reseated, began lighting cigars, and passed wine bottles along the table.A few minutes later George stood up again, tapping his spoon on his glass. Gentlemen, let me begin: On this occasion, we regret that General Bruce will not be with us. Yep, that's right. And we are very grateful to him, because he left us such a good red wine, which is what we enjoyed tonight.Let's hope that, in time, we'll have a good reason to pop open his champagne if the circumstances warrant. Agreed, well said. Thanks to General Bruce's foresight and hard work, now we have only one task left, which is to finally tame this monster, and then we can all go home and start living ordinary lives.Let me get this straight at the outset, I haven't decided on the composition of the two teams that will be with me for the final summit. One thing that will remain the same as on the last expedition is that I will keep an eye on everyone until I decide who is best suited to the conditions.With that in mind, I expect everyone to be up and ready to go by six o'clock tomorrow morning so we can climb to 19,000 feet by noon and be back at base camp by sunset. Irving asks: Since we're trying to get to the top as fast as possible, why come down again? We are not seeking to be quick.George said.He understands the young Shandi.Irwin had a smile on his face at how inexperienced he actually was.Besides, it takes a little time for you to get used to the new heights.He added: The golden rule is to climb high and sleep low.When we were fully adapted, he continued: My attempt is to advance to 23,000 feet, and then establish the No. 4 Battalion at the north entrance.Once we've camped, we'll push on and establish Battalion 5 at 25,000 feet, and Battalion 6 at 27,000 feet, from where the final attack will begin.George paused for a moment before saying the following: I want everyone to know that whoever I invite to walk with me will be part of the team making the second summit attempt because I intend to take the historic The first chance was given to the other two teammates.If the first team fails, my partner and I will make our attempt the next day.I'm pretty sure that each of us has the same desire to be the first to set foot on top of Everest.But gentlemen, it's only fair to let you know this: it's going to be me. All the players reacted to this with laughter and banging their mugs on the table.After the uproar died down, George called for questions. Norton asks: Is that what you mean by using oxygen on the second summit attempt? Yes, that's right, George replied: I hate to say this: Finch was right, we can't hope to climb the last two thousand feet without oxygen support. Then I have to make sure I'm on the first team to prove you wrong.Norton said: "It's a pity, really, Mallory, because that would mean I'd be the first man to stand on Everest. That remark sparked more laughter and cheers, and more mugs banging on the table. If you make it, Norton, retorted George: I'll give up the oxygen the next day and climb to the top barefoot. That's no use, Norton said to George, holding up his mug, because no one will remember the name of the second man to climb Forrest Peak. out! Not out. Mallory wasn't sure if he was dreaming or if he really heard the cricket hitting the bat.He poked his head out of the tent to see a square of snow in the Himalayas transformed into a cricket pitch in the English countryside. Two ice axes stuck in the snow, twenty-two yards apart, served as goalposts.O'Dell has the ball in his hand and is about to throw it to Irving.Mallory only observed a few pitches, and he knew that the hitter was better than the pitcher.It amused him that the Sherpas stood aside in twos and threes whispering, apparently baffled by the game-playing Britons.At this time, Noel also photographed the whole process, as if it was an international competition. Mallory climbed out of his tent and wandered behind the goalposts to join Norton and take his spot at first base. Irving was pretty good, said Norton: a few more points for the boy and he'd get fifty. How long has he been on the regional line?asked Mallory. Almost thirty minutes. And he can still run from wicket to wicket? It doesn't seem like a problem.He must have bellows lungs.But you must remember, Mallory, that he was at least fifteen years younger than the rest of us. Wake up, captain.O'Dell yelled as the ball whizzed past Mallory's right hand. Sorry, O'Dell, it's my fault, Mallory said: I wasn't paying attention. Irving hit the next ball for four, making up his fifty, and the reaction was a friendly cheer. I've had enough of this bloody Oxford man.build.Blake said as he took over the pitching duties from O'Dell. Gay's first attempt was a little off, and Irving took the opportunity to drive the ball over boundary for another four.But his second ball whizzed out of a dead corner and hit the edge of Irving's cricket bat, before George, who jumped to the right, caught it with one hand. Well done, Captain, said Guy: It's a pity you didn't show up sooner. Well, boys, it's time for us to go, said Mallory: I hope to be out of here in half an hour. The pitch is thrown aside in an instant, and the country cricketers revert to seasoned mountaineers. Thirty minutes later, the nine climbers and twenty-three Sherpas were all ready to go.Mallory waved his right arm like a traffic cop, and set off; at this pace, it was quick to tell who was less likely to acclimate to the higher altitude. One or two Sherpas gave up halfway, threw their heavy loads into the snow, and withdrew down the mountain.However, none of the members of the mountaineering team seemed to be in trouble; although Irwin was carrying two large oxygen cylinders on his back, he still followed the leader's footsteps. Mallory was confused because he didn't appear to be connected to the oxygen line.He beckoned the young man to go with him.Irwin, you won't need oxygen until we get to 25,000 feet.he said. Irving nodded.I hope not to use a single ounce of precious oxygen until at least 27,000 feet.But if I'm lucky enough to get picked to do the final summit with you, I want to start getting used to the extra weight.You know, I'm going to sit on the top, he said, pointing to the top: waiting for you to come and meet me.He went on to say: After all, it is the duty of Oxford people to leave a mark whenever the opportunity arises. George bowed slightly.Get two of your oxygen cylinders ready for me tomorrow."But it's not just about getting used to the extra weight, once we have to deal with steep rock faces and ice, even a slight loss of balance can be fatal," he said. A few hours later, George gave the team a break, enjoying digestive biscuits and a cup of tea before setting off for the second time.The weather was perfect for climbers, with only a short burst of snow that wouldn't distract even the little ones from building a snowman.He maintained a steady pace.George secretly wondered how long the mild weather would last. he prayed.His prayer was not answered. 56 Everything is determined by the weather □□□ My dearest Ruth: What a disaster.Nothing has been right for the past two weeks.The weather was so bad that there were days when the snow was so heavy that we couldn't see beyond a few feet from our noses. Norton, always as brave as a lion, managed to climb up to 23,000 feet, where he and Somerville established the 4th Battalion and spent the night there.However, the next day the two of them could only return to the 3rd Battalion before nightfall.It took them more than eight hours to cover the 2,400 feet, trudging down the mountain through strong snow.Come to think of it, that's 100 yards an hour, and the sprinter Abraham ran it in 9.6 seconds. The next day, O'Dell, Brack, and I were at 25,300 feet and managed to set up the Fifth Battalion on an icy ledge.But after one night there, the weather left us with no choice but to head back to Camp 3.When we arrived, Dr. Hingston greeted me with the news that one of the Sherpas had broken his leg and another had suspected pneumonia.I didn't bother to tell him that my ankle was wrong again.Guy and O'Dell kindly volunteered to accompany the ambulatory wounded down the mountain to base camp, from where they would be escorted back to their villages. Gai came back the next day to report that our cobbler had died of frostbite, after the Gurkha sergeant had had a blood clot in his brain.Twelve more Sherpas escaped; with less than a shilling's equivalent a week, who can blame them?Apparently morale at base camp was pretty low.In their imagination, what would the upper side look like? (1924, May 17) □□□ After three more attempts, Norton and Somerville finally reached the north entrance, and despite the temperature being twenty-four degrees below zero, they managed to set up camp.But on the way down the mountain, the four Sherpas lost their courage and were worried about an avalanche, so they turned around and spent another night at the north entrance. The next morning, Norton, Somerville, and I organized a search and rescue party and figured out some way to pick up the Sherpas and take them to the safety of Camp Three.I guess this will be the last time we see them. And if that wasn't enough, our meteorologist informed me over breakfast this morning that, in his opinion, the rainy season will soon be upon us.He did remind me, however, that there were three days of good weather before the last rainy season.It's hardly a set pattern we can rely on, but it hasn't stopped me from praying to whichever god is responsible for the weather. George should have seen this development, but he was so full of desire for another chance that he didn't notice what was going on around him until Norton called a war council. Norton said: "Gentlemen, as it stands, I think it would be wiser if we stopped wearing out before we lost anyone and turned back now." I disagree, and George said at once: If we do that, we've lost six months of our lives and left no proof. At least we'll make a comeback alive.Somerville said. None of us will ever have another chance at a comeback, George said simply: "This is our last chance, Somerville, and you know it." Somerville was momentarily overwhelmed by the frenzy in Mallory's words, and it took him a while to respond: But at least we'll live. My concept of living is not that way.George said so.Before anyone had a chance to comment, he turned to his longest-standing friend and asked: Guy, how would you feel if you looked back? While the rest of the team was waiting for his answer, Brack didn't respond right away. George, I am still willing to endorse your judgment. He finally said: Stay a few more days and see if the weather will improve. Me too, said Irving: But I have no qualms if I go back.After all, I'm the only person here young enough to make a comeback. The rest of the team burst out laughing, which helped to defuse the tension. Why not stay an extra week before we decide to close up?O'Dell suggested: If the weather conditions don't improve by then, maybe we should admit defeat and go home. George looked around the group and saw his teammates nodding.He recalled A. C．Benson's sage advice: When you know you're losing, give up gracefully. So be it, George said: We'll go on for another seven days, and if the weather doesn't improve, Norton will resume command and we'll go back to England. George felt like he had won the game or, more precisely, seven days.But is that enough? □□□ So unless the weather changes to the contrary in the next few days, you can expect me to be back in the UK by the end of August, or early September at the latest. Please give me my thanks to Claire for her wonderful poem Rupert.Brooke would be proud of her too.And thanks Belleji, she drew a cat, or a dog?And of course John's kind wishes, very short but very grateful. I'm glad you found the time to visit Cambridge and start looking for an apartment; and thank you for telling me in advance that the moors can be cold at this time of year. My dearest, I'm looking forward to starting a new job and sleeping in bed with a woman I want to cuddle with, not a man I cuddle just to survive.This time home, there will be no crowds at the pier to greet Mallory of Everest, just a young lady waiting for a middle-aged man who looks forward to spending the rest of his life with the woman he loves. your loving husband, george May 29, 1924 57 Teammates on the verge of failure Monday, June 2, 1924 * At this time there were five people.One fine, windless morning, as George was eating breakfast, a Sherpa arrived from base camp to hand him the telegram.He opened the telegram, read it slowly, and smiled as he thought about its meaning.He glanced at Norton, who was sitting cross-legged on the ground beside him. Can we have a word, old friend? Of course.Norton said, setting aside the sliced ​​ham and tongue. I'm going to ask you one last time, George put it this way: if I gave you the chance to do the final climb with my partner, would you consider using oxygen? No, I will not.Norton said firmly. All right.George spoke quietly, accepting that no amount of further discussion would be able to persuade Norton to change his mind.In this case, you will lead the first summit, without oxygen.if you succeed Gentlemen, George called the team and said: Sorry to interrupt your breakfast, but I just had a message from my sister from Colombo.He looked down at Mary's telegram: You'll have a week of good weather, maybe ten days, before the rainy season reaches you.Good luck.Mallory looked up.We have no time to waste.I've had plenty of time to consider my options, and I'm going to share my thoughts with you now.I've picked two groups of teams to try to get to the summit.The first group is Norton and Somerville.They would start in an hour and try to reach Camp Five at 25,300 feet before nightfall.Tomorrow if they wished to round the northeast ridge, they would have to get up early, set up Camp Six at about 27,000 feet, and prepare for the night before sunset.They will have to try to get as much sleep as possible because they will have to make their first summit attempt the next morning.Gentlemen, any questions? Both Norton and Somerville shook their heads.They had spent an endless month discussing every possible scenario.All they want to do now is act fast. Mallory said: During this period, the rest of us must sit here and play our thumbs, waiting for the hero who conquered the mountain to come back. What if they fail?Erwin asked with a grin. Shandi, then you and I will use oxygen for a second attempt. What if we succeed?asked Norton. Mallory gave the veteran a wry smile.In that case, Ordell and I would do the second ascent without oxygen. Remember, you have to go barefoot.Somerville said. As the rest of the team laughed, Mallory gave a slight bow to his two teammates.He waited a while before speaking again. Gentlemen, he said: for a speech about how much it means to all the people of the Empire to be the first man to stand on this hill, or dwelling on the celebratory wreaths we might wear on our heads, this is not the time.There will be plenty of time to sit at the bar of the British Mountaineering Association and smother young mountaineers with stories of our past glory.At the moment, though, we cannot afford to waste precious time if we want to be successful.So gentlemen, good luck and safe travels. Thirty minutes later, Norton and Somerville were fully equipped and ready to go.Mallory, O'Dell, Irving, Blake, Mosshead, and Hingston stood in a line to see them off, while Noel continued to film them until they were out of sight.He didn't see Mallory looking up at the sky and said: Just give me another week and I'll never ask you for anything else. George sat alone in his tent, following Norton and Somerville.He checked his watch regularly, trying to imagine where his two teammates had climbed. After a procrastinating lunch of macaroni and dried plums with the rest of the team, George returned to the tent.He wrote a daily letter to Ruth, and another letter to Traver.Lieutenant Colonel Mallory was another person interested in reaching extreme altitudes.Then he translated a few lines of the Iliad, and then tried a game of bridge, partnering with Guy against Audell and Irving.After the final game was decided, O'Dell found a can of beef from the daily ration, and after the can was melted by candles, he divided the contents into four equal parts.Later, all remaining members of the climbing team sat and watched the moon replace the sun; the sun shone across the snow on what proved to be an ideal day for climbing.They all had only one thought in their minds, but no one said where they were? Just before eleven o'clock George crawled back into his sleeping bag, the only climb he managed to do that day, exhausted from hours and hours of doing nothing.He fell into a deep sleep, wondering if he would ever regret letting Norton and Somerville make the first summit attempt.Would he lead the victorious team back to England in a week, only to be reminded of Norton's words: Nobody remembers the name of the second man to climb Mount Everest? Irving was the first to wake up the next morning and immediately set about preparing breakfast for his teammates.George swore that when he came home he would never eat a sardine again in his life. After breakfast was cleared, Irwin lined up nine oxygen tanks and, like his team leader, chose the best pair for the final summit.As he tapped the cylinders and adjusted the knobs slowly and methodically, George watched and wondered whether the cylinders would be useful, or would just be dumped with their owners in the North Gate. side.O'Dell happily escaped into his own world as he went out to search for rare rocks and plants. In the afternoon, the three of them gathered to study Noel's photographs of the high ground, looking for any new information that might assist their summit attempt.They debated seriously whether to follow the ridgeline and face the second ledge head-on, or to attack and climb up the north face, across the limestone of the yellow corridor and around the edge of the second ledge.In fact, all three of them knew that until Somerville and Norton came back and were able to pass on first-hand knowledge that would allow them to fill in the many gaps in the map, and the many gaps in their knowledge, they could not make the final Decide. After dinner, George returned to the tent with powdered milk in one hand and Ulysses in the other.He fell asleep on page 172, determined to finish Joyce's tome on the voyage back to England. Odell got up early the next morning and, to the surprise of his teammates, put on his backpack, gloves and goggles. Just go to Camp Five to make sure the tents are still in place, O'Dell explained as George climbed out of his sleeping bag.And I can leave some food for them too, because they must be dying of hunger. Such a conversation at 25,000 feet would have made George laugh, but this is typical of Audell, who always thinks about the plight of others, but is not worried about the danger he may face.He watched O'Dell lead the way up the hill, accompanied by two Sherpas, as if he were just taking an afternoon walk in the Kodswo area.George began to wonder if O'Dell would be the best choice to accompany him on the final summit, because this time he seemed to be better suited to these conditions than any of them, not even himself. O'Dell came back in time for a lunch of two sardines and graham crackers here, and whole wheat equals a complete meal, and he didn't even look like he was out of breath. Have you seen them?George asked before he put down his knapsack. No, Captain, O'Dell replied: but if they reached the summit at noon and then went back to spend the night at Camp Six, I wouldn't expect them to be back at Camp Five much earlier than two o'clock.In this case, they should join us around four o'clock this afternoon. It happened to be tea time.said George. After a six-minute lunch, George went back to Ulysses, but he spent most of his time not flipping through that novel, but staring at the mountain, waiting for two small spots to appear on the moors north of the peak.He looked at his watch: it was just past two.If they show up now, they may not have reached the top of the mountain before; if they arrive around four o'clock, they must have won the jackpot.If they weren't back by six he tried not to think so. Three o'clock passed, then four, then five, when domestic gossip gave way to more serious discussions.No one mentioned dinner.By six o'clock, the moon had replaced the sun, and they were all worried.By eight, they start to fear the worst. I think I'll head back up the North Ridge at once, O'Dell said nonchalantly, and see if they decide to camp there for the night. I'll go with you, George jumped up and said: I want to get some exercise.He tried not to sound too worried, but they all knew he was organizing a search party. I am coming too.Irwin said and threw the oxygen cylinder into the snow. George was grateful that there was a full moon, and that the night was calm and neither wind nor snow.Twenty minutes later, O'Dell and Irwin were fully dressed and were ready to accompany him to search and rescue their teammates. They keep going up and up and up.George grew more frustrated with every step he took.But he didn't think about turning back, not even for a moment, because they were probably just a few feet away It was Irving who saw them first. After all, he was the youngest and had the best eyesight.there they are!he shouted, pointing to the mountains. George was thrilled to see them, though they did look like two veterans limping off the field.Norton, the taller of the two, put one arm around Somerville's shoulders and shielded his eyes with the other. George climbed the hill as fast as he could to join them, with Irving just a step behind.They each put an arm under Somerville's shoulders and almost carried him back across the finish line.Norton put his arm on O'Dell's shoulder instead, keeping his other hand over his eyes. Mallory and Irwin guided Somerville back to the tent, lowered him gently to the ground, and covered him with a blanket.Norton followed a moment later, and immediately fell to his knees.Brack has two lukewarm glasses of Paul's ready.He passed a glass to Somerville while Norton relaxed on a cushion, flat on the ground.While waiting for the two men to recover, no one spoke. To everyone's surprise, it was Somerville who spoke first."Long before we reached the second crag, we decided not to climb it but to follow the yellow corridor," he said.He said again between breaths: This way the journey is longer, but it is safer.We cross the corridor until we come across a huge ravine.I figured if we could get across this deep valley, we could push all the way to the final pyramid, where the slope was less steep.Our progress is slow, but I still believe that we have enough time to climb to the top. Have you arrived yet?George was about to ask, when Somerville sat up and took another sip of the cold Pavel. That was before we got to 27,400 feet, and that's when my throat started working again.I started coughing and phlegm, almost coughing half of my throat out as Norton slapped me on the back with all his feeding strength.I managed to keep struggling, but by the time I reached 28,000 feet, I couldn't go any further.I had to stop and rest, but I could see the summit ahead of me, so I insisted that Norton keep going.I sat there and watched him climb towards the summit until he was out of my sight. George turned to Norton, and asked softly: Did you make it? No, I didn't, Norton said: because when I stopped to rest, I made a classic mistake. Don't tell me you took your goggles off?George asked in disbelief. How many times have you warned us not to do that under any circumstances?Norton said as he lowered the arm that covered his eyes.By the time I put the goggles back on, my eyelids were almost frozen together, and I couldn't see a step in front of me.我大叫，讓桑莫維爾知道我的狀況，他也用真假音交替出聲讓我知道他在哪裡，然後我慢慢往下走回他身邊。 像是某種合唱團，桑莫維爾說著，試著露出微笑：有了我的手電筒幫忙，我們還能找到路下山，只是有點慢就是了。 歐岱爾把一條浸泡在溫水中的手帕蓋在諾頓眼睛上，諾頓說：感謝上帝，還好有桑莫維爾。 好一段時間，他們兩人都沒再說話。然後諾頓深吸了一口氣。我不相信還有比這更好的例子，可以說明什麼叫盲人騎瞎馬。 這回喬治真的笑了。所以你爬到多高？ 老友，我完全沒概念。諾頓說著，把他的高度計交回給馬洛里。 喬治研究了一會兒高度計，然後才開口宣布。兩萬八千一百二十五呎。伙伴，要大大恭喜你。 因為我沒爬完最後八百七十七呎嗎？諾頓說著，聽起來失望至極。 不，因為你締造了歷史，喬治說道：因為你奪回了高度紀錄。我等不及要看芬奇聽我說起這件事的臉色了。 你這麼說真厚道，諾頓說：可是芬奇會第一個提醒我，我應該聽他的話，同意使用氧氣。他停頓了一下，然後又說：如果這種天氣維持下去，我預料我只是歷史上的一個注腳因為你應該會馬到成功，老友，假如你能原諒我這種老套說法。 喬治露出微笑，但不置可否。 桑莫維爾補充道：我同意諾頓。老實說，你、歐岱爾和厄文現在能做的，就是確保你們有一夜好眠。 喬治點點頭，而且雖然他們已相處超過三個月，他還是和他的兩位隊友都握過手後，才回到他自己的帳篷，想辦法得到一夜好眠。 如果不是諾頓的一句話一直留在他心裡，他的確可能會睡得很好：如果這種天氣維持下去 58 兩難 一九二四年，六月六日，星期五 * 這時有三個人。 喬治早在日出前就已起床，親眼看著滿月的光芒在雪地上閃爍，四下看起來就像是以精工切磨的鑽石構成的草地。雖然溫度是零下三十度，他卻感覺到一股暖意，還有一種他們即將成功的信心，儘管他還沒決定這個他們到底是誰。 在諾頓和桑莫維爾幾乎抵達山頂後，他真的有必要費事帶著氧氣嗎？而且，歐岱爾不是證明了他比他們之中任何人都更適應環境嗎？或者，歐岱爾會不會在大獎唾手可得時再度半途而廢？在他們踏入未知領域時，厄文的缺乏經驗會不會變成一種缺陷？或者，在那些神聖的氧氣鋼瓶支持下，他的熱忱或許會是成功的唯一保證？ Good morning, sir.他背後有個聲音說道。 喬治一轉身，迎面而來的是厄文極具感染力的露齒微笑。早安，山帝，他回答：我們去吃點早餐吧？ 厄文看了一眼手錶說：不過現在才五點，而且歐岱爾還在睡。 那就把他叫醒，喬治說：我們必須在六點上路。 六點？厄文說：但你在昨晚做的最後簡報裡，告訴我們要及時起來在八點吃早餐，在九點準備好出發，因為你不想花額外的時間待在兩萬七千呎高的岩架上。 那麼就六點半吧，喬治讓步了：如果歐岱爾那時還沒起床，我們就會留下他自己出發。而且既然你在這裡，年輕人，為什麼你不換換口味，做點有用的事？ 例如什麼，長官？ 幫我做早餐。 那個具感染力的笑容回來了。我可以給你的菜單是稍微烤過的沙丁魚加餅乾，還有去骨沙丁魚加葡萄乾，或者我們營帳裡的招牌菜，沙丁魚 快動手就是了。said George. 馬洛里、歐岱爾和厄文在五個雪巴人的陪伴下，帶著帳篷、設備和糧食，在六月六日早上剛過七點半時離開了北口。歐岱爾錯過了早餐，不過他並沒有抱怨。在喬治離開前，蓋．布拉克是最後一個和他握手的人。老友，幾天以後見。He said so. good.繼續把水壺煮滾就是了。 就像喬治以前的舍監爾文先生（喬治納悶地想，不知他是不是還活著）過去常說的話，你永遠不可能開始得太早，只會太晚。喬治就像個著魔的男人似地出發了，歐岱爾和厄文發現很難追上他的步調。 他一直滿心猜疑地盯著晴朗的藍色天空瞧，試圖察覺可能改變他所有精心規畫的事情：最細微的起風徵兆、一縷孤雲或第一片雪花現身，但天空堅定地保持鎮定和寧靜。然而他從慘痛的經驗裡知道，這位特別的女士有可能在一瞬間改變心意。他也仔細觀察兩位同伴，看看他們是否有陷入困境的樣子；他幾乎希望他們之中有一個人落後，讓他不必親自做最後決定。不過隨著一小時又一小時過去，他不情不願地做出結論：他們兩人不分上下。 登山隊在當天下午三點過幾分後到達第五營，遠比時間表來得早。喬治看了錶，設法盤算一下。當漢尼拔翻越阿爾卑斯山時，他總是讓陽光替他做這種決定。他應該加緊腳步到達第六營，想辦法取得勝利？或者那樣做會導致他們太過精疲力竭，沒有辦法面對眼前更重大的挑戰？他選擇謹慎從事，決定早點過夜，這樣他們才能在一早就搶先出發到第六營。不過他會和誰一起出發？他們之中哪個人會陪著他上山頂，而哪些人會陪著雪巴人回到北口？ 對喬治來說，早點上床睡覺並不保證晚上好睡。每過一小時左右他就醒來一次，把頭探出營帳外，察看是否還能看到鮮少有其他人能如此清楚見到的星星。他看得到。厄文熟睡得像個孩子，歐岱爾甚至神經大條到打呼了。喬治望著他們，同時繼續和這個問題角力：誰該跟他一起做最後攀登。歐岱爾嗎？他在多年奉獻之後，當然應該得到機會這可能是他的最後一次？或者該選厄文？畢竟對年輕人來說，讓他能夢想在陽光下佔有一席之地，才算合乎人性，不過如果他沒有獲選，他還有好幾年時光可以再做嘗試。 喬治只確定一件事。這是他的最後機會。 第二天早上剛過四點時，月亮還寧靜地照耀在他們身上，這三個男人就再度出發了。他們的步調隨著每個小時的過去而逐漸變慢，最後只是拖著腳步走而已。然而，就算歐岱爾或厄文因這番體驗而痛苦，但他們繼續固執地追隨著隊長的腳步時，都沒有做出任何最小的暗示。 東北山肩進入視線範圍內時，太陽已開始下山。喬治查看了他的高度計：兩萬七千一百呎。過了半小時，多走兩百三十呎後，他們三個累垮了，而且在發現諾頓和桑莫維爾的小帳篷還在定位時，深感如釋重負。喬治不能再拖延做最後決定的時間了，因為三個男人沒辦法睡在那麼小空間裡，而且在山脊上一定不會有足夠空間搭起第二個帳篷。 喬治坐在地上，草草寫下一張便條給諾頓，通知他現在他們進展如何，還有他們會在早上嘗試最後一次攀登。他站起來，看著這兩個沉默的男人，然後把紙條交給歐岱爾。老友，可不可以請你把這個帶回北口，保證諾頓拿到手？ 歐岱爾沒有透露出一絲情緒，他只是點點頭。 我很抱歉，老友。喬治又追加一句。他正要解釋理由時，歐岱爾說道：隊長，你做了正確的決定。他先和喬治握了手，然後輪到由他推薦給皇家地理學會、取代芬奇成為登山隊一員的年輕人。Good luck.他說著，轉身背對他們，展開他寂寞的旅程：往下走回第五營過夜，接著在第二天早上回到北口。 這時是兩個人。 59 天際線上的翦影 □□□ my dear: 坐在大約海拔兩萬七千三百呎的一個小帳篷裡，距離家鄉幾乎五千哩，追尋著榮耀之路 一九二四年，六月七日 did you sleep厄文坐起來揉著眼睛問道。 只有下山時才會，喬治說：所以明天的這個時候，我會睡得很熟。 明天這個時候，在你殺死你自己的那條惡龍後，他們會擁立你成為新的聖喬治（註1）。厄文一邊說，一邊調整其中一個氧氣鋼瓶上的指示器。 註1：聖喬治（St. George）是傳說中基督教早期的殉教者，以屠龍而聞名，後來在西方藝術中經常出現以聖喬治屠龍為主題的創作。 我不記得聖喬治屠龍時還得靠氧氣。 如果這次由辛克斯負責指揮，厄文說：聖喬治甚至還不許用劍吧。你不知道嗎，老弟，這有違業餘愛好者規範的精神。厄文摸著想像中的八字鬍，又接著說：你一定要赤手空拳勒死那個可惡的畜生。 厄文逼真地模仿皇家地理學會祕書，讓喬治大笑。嗯，如果我要和業餘者精神分道揚鑣，他說：我就得知道，你那神聖的氧氣鋼瓶在明天早上四點能夠運作。不然我們就把你送回北口，讓歐岱爾來取代你的位置了。 別想，厄文說：四個鋼瓶運作狀況都很完美，假如你沒打算花超過八小時走區區兩千呎的路再回頭，這應該能供應我們綽綽有餘的氧氣了。 你很快就會發現區區兩千呎路是什麼感覺了，年輕人。而且如果你回去睡覺，讓我可以寫完給我太太的這封信，我會有更高的機會達成目標。 你每天都寫信給馬洛里太太，不是嗎？ 對，喬治回答：而且如果你夠幸運，能找到某位有她一半優秀的人，到頭來你也會想要這樣做。 我想我已經找到了，厄文說著躺了回去：只是我在離開前忘記告訴她，所以我不完全確定她知道我是什麼感覺。 她會知道的，喬治說：相信我，不過如果你還有疑慮你總是可以寫封信給她這麼說是假定你們牛津還用寫信這種方式溝通。 喬治等著聽到一句夾槍帶棒的機智反駁，不過接下來卻什麼都沒有，因為那個小伙子已經回到深沉的睡眠中了。他微笑著，繼續寫信給露斯。 他抖著手草草寫下妳深情的丈夫，喬治，並且封上信封，接著閱讀葛雷的<作於鄉村墓園的哀歌>，然後才終於吹熄蠟燭入睡。 一九二四年，六月八日，星期日 * 老友，你要我把圍巾拿掉嗎？歐岱爾問道。 對，麻煩你。諾頓說。 歐岱爾輕輕將絲質圍巾從諾頓臉上移開。 喔，天啊，我還是什麼都看不到。諾頓說。 別驚慌，桑莫維爾說：雪盲發作後，你的視力過兩、三天才開始恢復並不算奇怪。不管怎麼說，在馬洛里回來前，我們哪都不會去。 我擔心的不是下山，諾頓厲聲說道：是上山啊。歐岱爾，我要你回去六號營，而且隨身帶一瓶保衛爾和一份肯達爾薄荷餅過去，因為你可以確定馬洛里會忘記打包某些東西。 我上路了。歐岱爾說。他往外看著營帳：我從來沒看過比這更好的登山條件了。 喬治在四點過幾分後醒來，發現厄文在準備早餐。 上山日的菜單是什麼？他把頭探出帳篷檢查天候時問道。雖然有一陣讓他耳朵刺痛的冷空氣襲來，但他看到的狀況讓他臉上出現微笑。 通心麵加沙丁魚。厄文回答。 有趣的組合，喬治說：不過我有種感覺，這不會出現在下一版的比頓太太2食譜上。 2比頓太太（Mrs Beeton）全名為伊莎貝拉．Mary.比頓（Isabella Mary Beeton），一八三六︱一八六五年，是英國最有名的料理書籍作者之一。 厄文露出一抹不懷好意的笑：如果你記得打包你的配給糧食，我也許就能給你稍微多一點的選擇。 我真的很抱歉，伙伴。喬治說：Mea culpa.（我的錯。） 對我沒太大影響。厄文說：老實說我實在太過緊張，根本不想吃東西。他穿上一件舊的飛行員夾克，和喬治的弟弟特拉佛上次放假時造訪霍特宅邸，穿的那一種不能說不像。喬治納悶地想，厄文是怎麼拿到那件衣服的，因為他太年輕了，不可能在戰時服役過。 這是舍監的衣服。厄文扣上鈕扣時做出解釋，回答了喬治沒問出口的問題。 別再設法讓我覺得自己老了。George said. 厄文大笑。在你吃早餐的時候，我會調整好你的鋼瓶的。 吃完幾隻沙丁魚，寫完給歐岱爾的短箋後，我會去找你。 帳篷外，早晨的陽光從藍色晴空往下照耀，幾乎讓厄文的眼睛看不見東西。 喬治吃掉剩下的沙丁魚，跳過了通心粉後，草草寫下一封給歐岱爾的短箋，然後放在他的睡袋裡。他敢打賭，當天歐岱爾會回到第六營。 喬治先前穿著四層衣服睡覺，現在又加上一件厚厚的羊毛背心和一件絲質襯衫，接著是一條法蘭絨襯衫和另一件絲質襯衫。接著他穿上一件通稱為沙克頓工作服（註3）的棉製Burberry外套，然後穿上一條寬鬆的軋別丁長褲。他在腳踝紮上一對喀什米爾羊毛綁腿，穿上他的靴子，然後套上露斯替他織的一對羊毛連指手套。最後戴上弟弟的皮革飛行員帽，然後抓起最新的一副護目鏡，這是芬奇捐贈的。他很高興附近沒有鏡子，儘管珠穆朗瑪會同意，對於和這位女王陛下同在的觀眾來說，他的穿著相當正確。 註3：沙克頓（Ernest Shackleton）是著名的南極探險家，Burberry為他設計了特製的防水服裝。 喬治爬出帳篷，來到厄文身旁，在他協助下背上一組氧氣鋼瓶。鋼瓶綁在他背上後，喬治納悶地想，事實是否會證明額外的重量比呼吸不規律更不利？不過他把歐岱爾送回去時就已經下定決心了。 這兩個男人進行的最後儀式，就是用氧化鋅塗滿對方臉上暴露出來的部分。在出發上山前，他們瞇著眼睛望著峰頂。它看起來好近。 要提高警覺，喬治說：她就像惡女耶洗別（Jezebel）（註4）。愈靠近她，她就愈誘人，今天早上她甚至用完美天氣的魔咒來誘惑我們。不過就像任何女性一樣，改變心意是她的特權。他看了一下手錶：五點零七分。他原本希望能再更早一點開始。來吧，年輕人，他說：引用我摯愛的父親所言，現在是把我們最好的那隻腳往前邁進的時候了。他調整了一下氧氣接管，然後打開氧氣供應。 註4：耶洗別是以色列王亞哈（Ahab）之妻，性情冷酷險惡。 歐岱爾爬上最後幾呎路來到六號營時想，要是辛克斯現在看得見我就好了。他來到帳篷前，跪在地上拉開帳篷開口，面對著就像兩個小孩留在樹屋過夜後可以預見的混亂：一盤沒吃完的通心粉，一個空的沙丁魚罐，還有一個想必是喬治留下來的羅盤。歐岱爾爬進去打算開始清理時，格格笑出聲來。如果馬洛里沒忘記某樣東西，這裡就不是他的帳篷了。 歐岱爾把保衛爾和兩根肯達爾薄荷餅放到喬治的睡袋上，這時他看到兩只信封一封寫給喬治．馬洛里太太，霍特宅邸，加德明，薩里郡，英國，他把它收進內袋裡；另一封上面潦草寫著他的名字。他拆開了信封。 □□□ 親愛的歐岱爾： 非常抱歉把這一團亂的雜物留給你。對這項工作來說，天氣條件完美。請開始尋找我們，要不是跨過了岩石帶，就是朝著天際線往上吧。 明天見，喬治 歐岱爾笑了。等他再三確認，每樣東西都已準備好迎接英雄回來時，他就往後爬出帳篷，然後在擡頭看世界最高峰時，站起身把手臂高舉過頭。天氣這麼理想，有一刻他甚至受到誘惑，想追隨他們，因為他忍不住會覺得有點嫉妒他的兩位隊友，他們現在一定正逐漸接近峰頂。 突然間，他瞥見兩個以天際線為背景的翦影。在他注視下，兩人中較高的那位走過去和另一人會合。他可以看出他們倆正站在第二岩階上，距離頂峰大概六百呎。他看一眼他的錶：十二點五十分。他們還有綽綽有餘的時間可以爬到頂峰，然後在最後一絲陽光消逝前回到他們小小的帳篷來。 當他看著他們大步走進雲一般的霧氣中，然後從視線裡消失時，忍不住開心地跳上跳下。 厄文爬到第二岩階頂端，費勁地爬過一塊形狀崎嶇不平的石頭，然後與喬治會合。 我們大概還有另外六百呎要走，喬治一邊察看高度計一邊說：不過要記得，那相當於至少還有一哩，而且在沒有氧氣時，諾頓一小時只能設法走一百二十五呎。所以這可能會花掉們另外三小時。他在呼吸之間說道：這就表示我們禁不起浪費任何時間，因為在今天下午稍晚，我們開始回頭爬下那個岩石面時，他說著指指下面：我想確定我還能看到前面幾呎遠的地方。 當喬治重新接上氧氣管時，厄文給他一個拇指朝上的手勢。隨後，他們沿著一條從前沒有人曾涉足過的山脊線，展開緩慢的跋涉。 60頂峰的照片 一九二四年，六月八日，星期日，下午兩點零七分 * 喬治再度擡頭往上看時，雖然高度計警告他，他們還有超過三百呎路程，但峰頂看起來卻彷彿伸手可及。就算來到這裡耗費的時間比他原先預料的多，但它還是近得驚人。 他們征服第二岩階後，沿著狹窄的東北脊線，又鑿又推又拉地慢慢往上開路，心裡十分清楚，兩旁的雪就像屋簷，下方除了空氣外什麼都沒有。他們只要往任何一邊走偏了幾呎，就會 這片外表誘人、未受踐踏的新鮮白雪深達兩呎，他們幾乎不可能再往前邁進；而當他們真的這麼做時，只前進幾吋，雙腳就再次陷進雪地裡了。 走了兩百一十一步後喬治計算了他們走的每一步兩人終於擺脫了雪堆，卻碰上一片陡峭的岩壁；即使在溫暖的夏季早晨，在海拔三千呎處碰到這種岩壁都會是個挑戰，更不必說他此時全身都泡在汗水裡，四肢幾乎凍僵，而且精疲力竭至極；他想做的就只有躺下來睡覺，雖然他知道，在零下四十度如果躺著不動稍久一點就會被凍死。 喬治甚至考慮過，趁他們還很有機會在日落前安全躲在帳篷裡的時候回頭，但在此之後，他就必須用餘生來解釋，為什麼他在最後一刻讓到手的大獎溜走，而且更糟的是，他每晚入睡時，都會夢見自己爬了最後三百呎，卻只能從滿身冷汗的夢魘裡醒來。 他轉身看到氣力用盡的厄文把腳從雪地裡拔出來，卻只能一臉懷疑地瞪著面前矗立的岩壁。喬治猶豫了一下。他有權利讓厄文和他一起冒生命危險嗎？都到這個節骨眼了，他是否該建議那個年輕人回頭，獨自前進，或者叫這年輕人休息一下，在這裡等他回來？他把這個念頭趕出腦海。畢竟厄文有權和他一起分享成功的戰利品。喬治把口中的氧氣管拿開，說道：伙伴，我們幾乎快到了。這塊岩石會是我們抵達頂峰前的最後一道障礙。厄文給他一個薄弱的微笑。 喬治轉身面對垂直的岩石，上面覆蓋著年復一年未曾融化的冰。他尋找腳尖能踩的地方。正常狀況下，他會把第一步放在大概十八吋高處，或許甚至在兩呎高，不過今天不行，事實證明，此刻就連寥寥幾吋也等於一座山了。他用顫抖的手抓住一處比他的頭高出幾吋的岩架，然後慢慢把自己往上拉。他擡起腳，然後尋找另一個立足點，這樣他才能舉起另一隻手臂，然後在朝著岩石頂端前進的垂直旅程中多前進幾吋。他試著不去想下山的路會是什麼狀況。他的大腦尖叫著：回頭，但他的心輕聲說：繼續走。 四十分鐘後，他把自己拉到岩石頂端，然後拉緊繩索，讓隊友的任務稍微輕鬆一點。等到厄文使勁爬上來和他會合時，喬治檢查了高度計：還有一百一十二呎。他擡頭往上看，這回面對的狀況是：冰層在多年累積後，形成垂掛於東面的冰簷，就算是有尖蹄的四足動物也會受阻，無法再前進一步。 一道閃電打在喬治下方的山岳，過了一會兒，一記響雷也隨之來到，這時他正試著確保一處立足點。他以為他們就要被捲入一場暴風雨了，不過當他往下看時，他理解他們比暴風雨雲還要高得多，這場風雨想必是在他們下方大約兩千呎遠處，朝著他們的隊友洩憤。這是喬治第一次從上方看一場風暴，他只能期望，等他們下山時，這場風暴已繼續前進，只留下這番怒火後經常出現的平靜晴空。 喬治再次擡起腳，試圖在冰面稍微站穩一點。冰面隨即裂開，他的腳跟從坡面上滑了回來。他幾乎笑了出來。狀況還可能變得更糟嗎？他把冰斧插進面前的冰裡。這回冰層沒這麼容易裂開了，不過當它真的裂開時，他就把一隻腳放進那個洞裡。沒想到腳還是滑掉了幾吋。他回想起那句老話：進兩步退一步，這時他並沒有笑。他必須讓自己滿足於前進一步、滑回來六吋的狀態。在這樣邁進十二步後，狹窄的冰脊甚至變得更窄了，最後他必須趴下來，四肢著地，開始爬行。他沒看他的左邊或右邊，因為他知道，兩邊都是深達數百呎的陡峭落差。往上看，忽略你身邊的一切，並且繼續奮鬥。前進了另外一碼，又退後半碼。身體到底能夠承受到什麼地步？然後突如其來地，他感覺到下方有紮實的岩石了，而且他能夠爬出冰床，站在距離山頂只有五十或六十呎的粗糙岩石地面上。他轉身看到精疲力竭的厄文，他仍四肢著地。 只剩下五十呎了。他喊道，這時他解下繩索，好讓兩個人可以繼續以各自的步調前進。 又過了另外二十分鐘，喬治．plum.馬洛里才把一隻手他的右手放到埃佛勒斯峰高點上。他緩緩地把自己拉到山頂，然後平平地趴在地上。幾乎不像是獲勝的時刻。這是他的第一個念頭。他推著讓自己跪坐起來，然後用最大的努力，設法勉強站起身。這就是站在世界巔峰的第一人。 他掃視著喜馬拉雅山脈，讚嘆著以前沒人見識過的景象。他想開心地跳上跳下，耀武揚威地盡可能大聲叫喊，不過他既沒有這種精力，也吸不進足夠空氣來做這種事。他反而緩緩地轉了一圈；冰冷刺人的風似乎從每個方向襲向他，讓他不能用更快的速度移動。無數尚未征服的山岳驕傲地站在他四周，在他們的君王面前低頭。 他心裡掠過一個奇異的念頭。他一定要記得告訴克蕾爾，埃佛勒斯峰頂大約和他們的晚餐餐桌一樣大。 喬治察看了他的錶：三點三十六分。他設法讓自己相信，他們有非常充裕的時間回到他們在第六營安全地帶的小帳篷裡，如果今晚平靜無風，就更是如此。 他回頭往下看，見到厄文雖然以蝸牛般的速度推進，但還是更接近了。他會在最後一步踉蹌失足嗎？接著，就像一個還不會走路的孩子，厄文爬上巔峰了。 喬治幫助厄文站起身後，在自己的沙克頓工作服口袋裡摸索著，只希望他沒忘記他正在找的那個東西。他的手指因為天冷而極端麻木，以至於幾乎把他的袖珍口袋型照相機掉落一旁。他一穩住自己的身體，就為厄文拍了一張照片，他的手臂高舉過頭，就像剛贏得一場划船比賽。他把那臺柯達相機遞給同伴，厄文也替他拍了一張照片；他努力讓自己看起來像是在威爾斯地區的丘陵間健行了一趟。 喬治再次看錶，然後皺起眉頭。他堅定地指指山下。厄文把照相機放在長褲口袋裡，然後把他們的成果證明用鈕扣扣起來。 喬治正要踏出下山的第一步時，想起他對露斯的承諾。他用覆蓋著冰雪的沉重手指，笨拙地拿出皮夾，然後抽出那張他每次出門旅行都帶著的褐色照片。他看了妻子最後一眼，露出微笑，然後把她的影像留在地球的最高點。他把手放回口袋裡，然後開始到處翻找。 英國國王致上他的敬意，夫人，他說著一鞠躬：而且希望您會容許他謙卑的臣民一路順風，回到他們的家鄉。 喬治先是微笑，後是咒罵。 他忘記把喬佛瑞．楊的一鎊金幣帶來了。 61現在什麼都擋不住他了 一九二四年，六月八日，星期日，下午五點四十九分 * 歐岱爾回到四號營時，已經無法隱藏他的興奮了。他爬進諾頓的帳篷，告訴諾頓他看到了什麼。 你是說，距離巔峰大約六百呎嗎？諾頓這麼說，仍然平躺著。 對，歐岱爾說道：我確定是這樣。他們站在第二岩階上，那時我看到他們其中一個走向另一個，然後狀況良好地繼續攻頂。 那麼現在應該什麼都擋不住他們了。布拉克把一條新的溫暖毛巾放到諾頓眼睛上時說道。 咱們就期待你是對的吧。桑莫維爾說：不過我還是認為，對歐岱爾來說，最明智的作法就是趁著記憶猶新，把看到的一切細節都記下來。在遠征隊的歷史被記載下來時，這個紀錄結果可能會很重要。 歐岱爾爬到他的背包旁，拿出日記。他坐在帳篷一角，在接下來二十分鐘裡，寫下他那天早上見證的每件事。他看到那兩個人影的確切地點，他們繼續上山的時間，還有他們消失在霧中時看來完全沒問題的事實。當他寫完時，他看了一眼手錶：下午六點五十八分。馬洛里和厄文站到世界頂端後，安全回到第六營的帳篷了嗎？ 他們一套上繩索，喬治從埃佛勒斯峰頂往下走的第一個念頭，就是懷疑他的氧氣還能撐多久。厄文曾開玩笑說他們不會超過八小時，但他們一定已經逼近那個最後期限了。他的第二個念頭是懷疑還剩下幾小時的日照，因為那是再怎麼轉動氧氣活塞也改變不了的事。最後，他希望接下來是個晴朗的夜晚，這樣在他們回程的最後幾步路，就能有月光相伴。 他很驚訝地