Chapter 32 Chapter 29: The Mountain Destined to Be Conquered

The fact that the 1924 expedition got so close to the summit proved that climbing the world's highest mountain was a possible proposition.The mountain itself presents no insurmountable physical obstacle; man has proved his physical ability to climb the highest places in the world.Why not just let it go?All that science wants to know is now satisfied.Shouldn't we give up our efforts to go further up the mountain? Whatever philosophy will answer the question, whatever wisdom will have something to say One thing is certain: the spirit will answer emphatically: no.No, another attempt should not be given up.In life, knowledge is not everything.Science may be content so far, but the soul is not.It is the spirit of man, not science, that has brought about this enterprise.The spirit can never rest unless it completes itself.

Who has the right to utter the momentous word of resignation except those who have been very close to the summit, who have known all the dangers and difficulties, and who have lost comrades?And yet, these are the people, the ones who have lived through the horrors of the situation and remember them vividly, who are the first to say the words: Try again!For them, giving up is unimaginable.On the way back, they called and urged to plan the next operation.It was loyalty to fallen comrades that made them do it.Before reaching India they had sat down solemnly to lay out their experience in detail of the whole organization for the benefit of the next expedition.

Currently, the fourth expedition, which the Everest committee had expected, has been put on hold temporarily because of difficulties in borrowing from the Tibetan government.These smart Tibetans thought: The British sent huge mountaineering groups year after year, always led by generals, never reaching the top of the mountain, but always looking around the mountain, and often spying on Nepal. Are they just for climbing?It must be impossible.And no matter what they did in the mountains, the gods were not happy, because thirteen people had died before and after.It's better to refuse permission and not risk political trouble or the wrath of the mountain god.Because of Tibet's attitude, entry permits are difficult to obtain.It is the Tibetans who are currently standing in the way, and they may be standing in the way for years.But in the end, man can still go the way he wants to go.Expedition after expedition will be sent to Mount Everest; man will prevail, as certain as mathematics.

Now, that mountain stands there unruly, and all the tribes living around the mountain are cowardly and bound their feet.In any given year, if they wanted to, they were physically fit enough to get them to the top, but they lacked that mentality.All they got was a picture of the Englishman daring to offend enough to be cast out by God.But that mountain was meant to be conquered.Mankind already knows what it is most powerful about.He knew the exact way to climb it; he knew what the clouds and snow and storms that guarded it looked like at their extremes.He also knew that the mountain's defensive ability would not change, but his offensive ability was increasing.The mountain could not be raised higher, nor could a harsher cold, nor a more violent wind, defend it.But man, when he comes next time, will be very different from the last time he came.His knowledge, experience and spirit have all entered the country.He already knew that the tent could be pitched at a height of 27,000 feet, and next time, he would pitch it even higher.Since he had crossed 28,000 feet this time, the remaining 800 or 900 feet would not scare him.Fifty years ago he hadn't climbed 21,000 feet, then he crossed 23,000, then 24,600, then 27,000, then 28,000.It is unmistakable that he will reach the ultimate 29,000 feet.

This becomes even more certain when we factor in Ordair's performance.O'Dell has almost tasted all the pain that Mount Everest can inflict on people.He did not take part in rescue challenges, so he was spared unnecessary labor, but he has survived extreme cold and snowstorms, so he can be used as an example against the worst conditions on Everest.Here is his record: Between May 31 and June 11, he made three trips up and down between 21,000 feet and 23,000 feet.Before the Everest expedition set out, this would be considered a very big deal.But now, 23,000 feet is seen as just the starting point; it's where his great performances began.Twice he climbed to the tent at 26,800 feet, and a little over it; another time, he climbed to 25,200 feet; It was done on four consecutive days.The last time he climbed, he was still wearing clunky oxygen equipment, but he only used it for about an hour, and it was blustery.There was another peculiarity in O'Dell's performance: Of those twelve days, he spent only one day below 23,000 feet and two days above 25,000 feet.

Now, suppose that on the crucial day, when Malory and Irving set off for the summit, and O'Dell climbed to the Sixth Battalion at 26,800 feet, Odell stayed overnight in the Sixth Battalion , instead of going down to base camp; and assuming that he also climbed to the summit the next day, wouldn't it be a fairly practical and probable inference that he would make it to the top?Here's what happened: He went back to Battalion 4 the same day, Battalion 5 the next day, Battalion 6 the next day (with bulky oxygen equipment), and Battalion 4 the next day.If he can do that, if he can descend from 27,000 feet to 23,000 feet and back to 27,000 feet, then he can climb from 27,000 feet to 29,000 feet ; isn't that a pretty sure thing?

Anyway, what Ordell did, plus Norton's and Somerwell's climbs to 28,100 feet and 28,000 feet respectively (again without oxygen), plus those tough challengers The record of carrying packs twice to nearly 27,000 feet confirmed the findings of the previous expedition and showed that man has the ability to adapt himself at the highest altitudes.Human bodily functions are not static and inflexible.It adapts to the demands of its strange external circumstances, and is able to do things that seem impossible when the process of adaptation has not been completed.Furthermore, these expeditions also discovered that the human mind, like his body, adapts to new situations.Once he reaches a higher altitude, the human mind accepts this fact, and accepting this fact makes it easier for him to ascend to a higher altitude.The pickers' second delivery of the bales up to 27,000 feet is a remarkable event.From then on, people no longer have to worry about the question of whether people have this ability, because people have already done this thing.As the achievement gets higher and higher, people become more and more psychologically prepared for the highest achievement.Once again man learns that the more he tries, the more he can achieve.

There is no doubt, then, that man will one day conquer that mountain.But on that great day, the first man to stand on the summit and put the whole mountain under his feet will deeply and poignantly acknowledge how much he has been indebted to those who came before him.Because they came first to open the way, he was finally able to win.It may be his name that will be hailed as the first to climb the world's highest mountain, but his name should always be mentioned with those of: Malory, Irving, Norton, Somerwell, and O. Dyer, and those tough, strong provocateurs: Napub.Yi Xue, Lakpa.Chedi and Xianchunbi were the first to demonstrate that tents could be brought within a day's walk of the summit.

It is likely that none of those who participated in the previous expedition will be able to participate in the next one.So, those with such ambitions should prepare themselves to win the great prize.The Everest committee still exists to help people with this activity.And when the committee takes the stand to make another call, hopefully someone is well and ready, because Everest is unbeatable except for the strongest body, mind and spirit. Apart from Everest, there are no fewer than seventy-four peaks in the Himalayas over 24,000 feet, and none of them has ever been climbed.People have climbed to great heights on their peaks, but no one has reached the summit of any of them.The Everest expeditions, while failing to achieve their main goal, have at least proved this: Altitude alone does not prevent a person from climbing any other lower mountain.And if people seriously climb them, they will not only make themselves suitable for fighting with Mount Everest, but also open up an infinitely wide and beautiful new world that is absolutely worth the pain of searching for.

When climbing these mountains, I hope they can bring the Himalayan mountain people with them.Hopefully, the sacrifices made to rescue the provocateur trapped in the North Col were not in vain after all.Our fellowship with these mountain folk was founded by Bruce and strengthened and secured by Norton, Somerwell, and Malory.I hope that this friendship can continue to be maintained and developed. When I can attack Mount Everest one day, I hope that I can rely on the love, sincerity and loyalty of the strong Himalayan people, and finally be successful. (END) □□□ Appendix One Francis.Biography of Young Husband

Chinese name Rong Hepeng, born in 1863.British military officer and one of the most famous British explorers in the 19th century. He traveled mostly in northern India and Tibet, and made great contributions to geographical research. At the age of 24, he traveled alone through the Gobi Desert and discovered a China's new route to India. He joined the army in 1822. From 1886 to 1887, he crossed Central Asia from Beijing to Yarkand (in present-day Xinjiang), and then took the long-abandoned Musta Gap in the Karakorum Mountains. The Mustaghpass continues to India, and it is verified that this mountain is the boundary between the Indian and Turkestan waters.He then went on two more expeditions to Central Asia, this time targeting the Pamirs. After many affirmations of Britain's willingness to obtain trade with Tibet, the Governor of India, Lord Curzon, authorized Young Husband to lead an armed convoy across the border into Tibet for the purpose of negotiating trade and border terms (1900 July three years).After unsuccessful attempts to negotiate, British soldiers, on the orders of Major General James Macdonald, invaded Tibet and massacred 600 Tibetans at Guru.Yang Hess went deep into Shigatse to make a second effort to launch trade negotiations, but it still failed.Afterwards, he led the British army into the forbidden city of Lhasa, forcing the Dalai Lama, the ruler of Tibet, to sign the Anglo-Tibetan Treaty (Ango-Tibetan Treaty) on September 6, 1904, winning long-awaited trade terms for Britain.This action earned him a knighthood in 1904. Afterwards, Younghusband surveyed the Brahmaputra and Sutlej rivers, as well as the rivers of northern India.In 1921, 1922 and 1924, as the chairman of the Royal Geographical Society, he organized three expeditions to try to climb Everest, but they all ended in failure. This soldier of the Empire era with countless complicated stories around him is also a great athlete. He once held the world record for the 300-yard dash.In addition, he is also an author and author of many books, including: "Deep into the Heart of a Continent" (1898), "India and Tibet" (1912) and "Challenging Mount Everest" (Everest: the Challenge, 1936), etc.After the invasion of Tibet, this indescribable figure seemed to have received an apocalypse, put down the butcher knife of imperialism, became a mystic who preached Tibetan secrets in his later years, and even led Tibetan eminent monks to Britain to debate with the great philosopher Russell. He died on July 31, 1942, in Lytchett Minster, Dorset, England. For the legend of Young Husband's life, you can refer to the book "Tibet Tracking" published by Marco Polo. □□□ Appendix II Everest Climbing History (1841-2001) In 1841 George.Sir Everest surveyed the Indian region and recorded the location of Mount Everest for the first time. In 1848, Britain, which ruled India at the time, measured the height of Peak b to be 30,200 feet from 110 miles away. In 1852, triangulation found that Peak b was the highest mountain in the world. In 1854 Peak b was renamed Peak XV. In 1856 the investigator Andrew.Andrew Waugh successfully measured the height of the Peak XV to be 8,848 meters (29,002 feet). In 1865, Peak XV was renamed Everest (Mt. Everest) in memory of George.Sir Everest, this is a common name in the Western world.On the Nepal side, people call Mount Everest Sagarmatha, which means the Queen of Heaven; on the Tibetan side, people call it Chomolungma, which means the mother of the world. In 1903, the Governor of India, Lord Curzon, considered the expansion of Russian influence in Tibet and sent Sir Francis Younghusband to Tibet to negotiate border and trade issues.The Tibetans refused him entry, and Husband Yang led a British army to force his way into Lhasa.The Dalai Lama then fled to Mongolia, and Anglo-Tibetan signed the contract in September 1904. In 1904, one of Young Husband's men, J. Claude White, photographed the east side of Mount Everest from Kang Bazong, ninety-four miles away.This isn't the first photo of Everest, but it is the first to show important details of the mountain range. In 1907, Natha Singh, a member of the British Indian Bureau of Investigation, obtained permission to enter the Mount Everest from Nepal.He drew a map of the Dudh Kosi valley, the entrance to Everest from the south, leading to the Khumbu Glacier. In 1913, Captain John Noel, a British military officer, entered Tibet in disguise (Tibet had already implemented a country-locked policy at that time), trying to find the best route to Mount Everest from the Tibetan side.He came sixty miles away from Mount Everest, but was unexpectedly blocked by a mountain range that was not on the map in his hand.He saw the peak of Mount Everest protruding 300 meters in the clouds and described it as a shining rock cone covered with snow. In 1920, the Dalai Lama saw that the political situation between China and Russia had eased, so he opened the Tibet side to allow people to enter. The Royal Geographical Society and the British Mountaineering Association jointly formed the Everest Committee and began to organize expeditions to climb Mount Everest.After that, three expeditions to Mount Everest were launched. For details, please refer to the book "The Epic of Mount Everest". In 1921, the British expedition team tried to climb Mount Everest for the first time and determined the climbing route on the north side. In 1922, the second echelon British expedition failed to challenge Mount Everest. Seven Sherpas died in an avalanche. This was the first time that human beings lost their lives on Mount Everest. In 1924, the third echelon British expedition climbed to 8,580 meters without oxygen. Two legends, George Mallory and Andrew Irving, disappeared at the height of Mount Everest. No one knew about it. Whatever happened, a legend began. On March 19, 1931, the British Everest Committee was re-established and Sir William Goodenough was appointed as its chairman.Considering that American and German mountaineers have set new records (the Germans have even attempted to climb Kangchenjunga several times), the committee once again explored the possibility of sending an expedition to Mount Everest.But it was not approved by the Dalai Lama. On April 3, 1933, two British Westland biplanes equipped with turbocharged engines flew over Mount Everest for the first time.Tried again on April 19, but failed to capture the summit of Mount Everest both times. In 1933, the fourth echelon British expedition tried to climb Mount Everest, but it still ended in failure. In 1934, the eccentric and inexperienced Englishman Maurice Wilson attempted to solo Mount Everest. His body was later found at 6,400 meters. No one knew he had been there. high. In 1935, the fifth echelon British expedition team attempted to climb to the summit, and later Tenzing Norgay, a Sherpa who climbed to the top of Mount Everest with New Zealander Sir Edmund Percival Hillary, joined as a provocateur Team, this is his first time setting foot on Mount Everest.This trip was also disappointed due to bad weather. In 1936, the sixth echelon British expedition was formed, and this time the light radio was brought to Mount Everest for the first time.However, it failed because the seasonal rains came ahead of schedule on May 25.Tenzing also participated in the expedition. In 1938, the Seventh Echelon British Expedition was formed, and Tenzing also participated in this trip.Considering the early arrival of seasonal rains in 1936, they reached the Rongbuk Glacier early on April 6, and set up the third battalion at the North Col three weeks later, but they were unable to continue because of the cold weather. , retreating instead to the Qada Valley.But when I came back a week later, the monsoon rain came inexplicably on May 5th. Although I worked hard to establish the sixth battalion at an altitude of 8,290 meters and carried out several assault operations, they were all blocked by snow. Profound, and finally returned without success. In 1947, the Himalayan Committee (the Himalayan Committee) was established to succeed the Mount Everest Committee, and was also formed by the Royal Geographical Society and the British Mountaineering Association. The Canadian-British mountaineer Earl Denman made an illegal attempt to climb Mount Everest in 1947, taking the Sherpas Ang Dawa and Tenzing with him. This was Tenzing's fourth attempt after a nine-year gap. Everest.After almost being arrested, the three arrived at the Rongbuk Glacier, but suffered from the cold due to poor equipment. Although they tried to climb the North Col angrily, they still confessed their failure and returned.Denman was then forced to walk part of the way home to Darjeeling on bare feet because of worn out boots. In 1949, the Nepalese government allowed foreign teams to climb Mount Everest for the first time. In October 1950, the CCP attacked Tibet, the Tibetan government went into exile, and the climbing operations on the north side of Mount Everest were closed; the Nepalese government fully opened the south side, and the stage of Everest climbing turned to the south. In 1952, Tenzing from Sherpa and Raymond Lambert (Raymond Lambert), a member of the Swiss expedition, tried to climb Mount Everest from the southeast ridge to the south peak. Although they were unsuccessful, they laid the foundation for the successful summit of the British team the following year. In 1953, the British expedition led by Colonel John Hunt challenged Mount Everest again from the south side. Finally, Tenzing from Sherpa and Sir Hillary from New Zealand passed the southeast ridge on May 29. First ascent of Mount Everest. In 1955, the height of Mount Everest was corrected to 8848 meters. In 1960, a Chinese Tibetan mountaineering team composed of 214 men and women climbed Mount Everest from the north for the first time. In 1963, James Whittaker became the first American to summit Mount Everest. On May 21, 1963, Willi Unsoeld and Tom Hornbein climbed Mount Everest from the west ridge to the north face for the first time, and descended from the southeast ridge, becoming the first The team walks the Mount Everest team. In 1973, Nepalese Shambu Tamang climbed Mount Everest at the age of 18, setting the record for the youngest. On May 16, 1975, Japanese Junko Tabei successfully climbed to the summit via the southeast ridge, becoming the first woman to reach the summit of Mount Everest. In 1975, the Tibetan woman Phantog (Phantog) successfully climbed to the summit from the Tibetan side a few days after the Japanese Tabei Junko, becoming the second woman to reach the summit. In 1975, Huston (Dougal Haston) and Scott (Doug Scott) climbed Mount Everest from the southwest mountain for the first time. On May 8, 1978, humans climbed Mount Everest for the first time without artificial oxygen. Austrian Peter Habeler and Italian Reinhold Messner set this record via the southeast ridge. In 1978, the first European woman, Wanda Rutkiewicz (Poland), climbed Mount Everest, and later became the greatest female mountaineer in history. In 1979, Hannelore Schmatz (Hannelore Schmatz) successfully climbed Mount Everest (the fourth woman) and died unfortunately while descending the mountain, becoming the first woman to die on the mountain. In 1979, China opened Tibet to climb Mount Everest. On May 13, 1979, Andrej Stremfeli and Nejc Zaplotnik climbed Mount Everest completely via the West Ridge for the first time and descended from the Hornbein Canyon (Hornbein Couloir). On February 17, 1980, the Polish Wielicki (Krzysztof Wielicki) climbed Mount Everest and became the first person to reach the summit in winter. On August 20, 1980, Italian Reinhold Messner passed through the North Col and turned to the North Face. He set off from his base camp at 6,500 meters and climbed without oxygen for three full days. Climb Mount Everest and become the first person to climb Mount Everest solo. The first Canadian, Laurie Skreslet, climbed Mount Everest in 1982. On October 8, 1983, the first climb to the summit of Kangshung via the West Ridge: Lou Reichardt, Kim Momb and Carlos Buhler. 1984 First summit via North Couloir: McCartney︱Snape (Tim Macartney︱Snape) and Mortimer (Greg Mortimer). In 1985, American Dick Bass became the oldest climber at the time, at the age of fifty-five. On May 20, 1986, Sharon Wood, a Canadian woman, became the first woman in North America to climb Mount Everest, and also the first woman to climb the West Ridge from the Rongbuk Glacier and pass through the Hornbein Canyon. downhill. In 1988, the Frenchman Marc Batard passed the southeast ridge and set a record of 22.The record for summiting Mount Everest in five hours. The first American woman, Stacey Allison, reached the summit in 1988. In 1988, New Zealander Lydia Bradey became the first woman to climb Mount Everest without oxygen. In 1989, Mexican Ricardo Torres became the first Latin American to climb Mount Everest. On May 10, 1990, Peter Hillary, the son of the first climber, Hillary, also climbed Mount Everest. On October 7, 1990, the first couple reached the summit together: the Slovenian couple Stremfelj (Andrej & Marija Stremfelj). On October 7, 1990, Jean Noel Roche (Jean Noel Roche) and his son Roche Bertrand aka Zebulon (Roche Bertrand aka Zebulon) became the first pair of father and son to climb Mount Everest together. At that time, the son was only 17 years old and broke the youngest record , the father and son parachuted down from the South Col and landed at the base camp. On September 25, 1992, the first pair of brothers climbed Mount Everest together: Alberto and Felix Inurrategui. On April 23, 1993, Pasang Lhamu, the first Nepalese female Sherpa, climbed Mount Everest, but unfortunately died while descending. In 1993, the first Taiwanese climbed to the top: Wu Jinxiong. The first Brazilian reached the summit in 1995: Waldemar Niclevicz. In 1995, George Mallory, the grandson of Mallory, the legend of Mount Everest disaster, climbed Mount Everest. In the 1996 disaster of the century, fifteen people, including Rob Hall, the most successful business guide at the time, died in the same climbing season. In 1996, Sherpa Ang Rita (born in 1947) climbed Mount Everest for the tenth time (1983, 1984, 1985, 1987, 19 1988, 1990, 1992, 1993, 1995, 1996, all without oxygen). On May 20, 1996, the first summit from North-North East Canyon: Peter Kuznetzov, Valeri Kohanov and Grigori Semikolenkov. In 1996, Italian Hans Kammerlander (Hans Kammerlander) became the first person to reach the summit from the North Col, the North Ridge, and the North Wall. The 100-meter base camp took 16 hours and 45 minutes to reach the summit of Mount Everest at 9:45 the next morning, and most of the descent was by skiing. On May 6, 1999, Babu from Sherpa.Babu Chiri stayed at the summit of Everest for 21 hours and 30 minutes. On May 12, 1999, Georgian Lev Sarkisov (born February 12, 1938) became the oldest person to climb Mount Everest, but his record was soon broken.He was sixty years and one hundred and sixty-one days old when he reached the summit. In 1999, the body of the legendary mountain disaster figure Malory was found, and the expedition team led by Eric Simonson found his body, but the mystery of whether they climbed to the summit and the cause of the mountain disaster still could not be solved. In 1999, the National Geographic Society of the United States revised the height of Mount Everest to 8,850 meters (29,035 feet), but the Nepalese government refused to recognize it. In 2000 Babu the Sherpa.Chili climbed to the summit in 16 hours, setting a record for the fastest ascent on the Nepal side. In 2000, Apa, a Sherpa, reached the summit for the eleventh time. In 2000, Poland's Anna Czerwinska (born July 10, 1949) set a record on May 22, becoming the oldest female climber at the age of 51. In 2000, the first time to descend entirely on skis: Slovakian Davo Kamicar. In 2001 and 1990, Chebron, who set the record of climbing Mount Everest with his father, parachuted down from the summit of Mount Everest with his wife Claire (Claire Bemier Roche) in 8 minutes. After successfully landing at the base camp, they became the first couple to fly down from the summit of Mount Everest together. 2001 First downhill on a snowboard: Austrian Stefan Gatt. In 2001, it was the first time to go down the mountain entirely on snowboards: Frenchman Marco Siffredi. In 2001, 16-year-old Sherpa Tengba.Temba Tsheri breaks record for youngest climber. In 2001, American Sherman Bull (Sherman Bull) became the oldest person to climb Mount Everest at the age of 64. In 2001, American Erik Weihenmayer became the first blind person to climb Mount Everest. In 2001, the first Tibetan herdsman, Karsang Tendup, successfully climbed Mount Everest.