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Chapter 36 Yangzhou famous honey cake

sweet and sour 唐魯孫 1420Words 2023-02-05
Recently, Yangzhou cuisine seems to be very popular in Taipei. Many restaurants featuring Huaiyang cuisine and snack bars with Yangzhou cuisine have opened up one after another.However, I have been to those restaurants or snack bars in Taipei City, but there is no bee sugar cake available (in Yangzhou, only tea and food shops sell bee sugar cake). Although Yangzhou's noodles are famous, nine out of ten of them are passed down from other provinces. For example, Yangzhou dried tofu is famous all over the country, but the dried tofu for making dried tofu pays attention to the use of dried tofu.As the name suggests, the method of making Huigan was passed down from Anhui.Melaleuca oil cake and jadeite siu mai, it was in the last years of Guangxu, a Fuzhou native named Gao Naichao came to Yangzhou Jiaochang and opened Cocoju, which was famous for selling thousand layer oil cake and jadeite siu mai. Later, teahouses and restaurants followed suit. Over time, it has become a Yangzhou snack.

When it comes to bee sugar cake, its origin is very ancient, but it is indeed Yangzhou dim sum.It is said that bee sugar cake was originally called honey cake. When Emperor Zhaozong of Tang Dynasty, Yang Xingmi, king of Wu, was the envoy of Huainan Jiedu. He had a special liking for honey cake.People in Jiangdong, Huainan, are grateful to Dade. In order to avoid the taboo of his name, because the cake grows like a honeycomb, it is called Fengtang cake.Later, someone wrote it as Fengtang cake, so it doesn't make sense.The bee sugar cake is not as soft as the Guangdong Mala Cake, and it is not as soft as the cream cake. The bee sugar cake is divided into meat and vegetable. , Qingmei Zhanxiang, compared with the mille-feuille cake, delicious and soft, but also different.

In the 21st year of the Republic of China, the author went to Yangzhou to attend a meeting of Huainan Salt Shore Merchants. After the meeting, Brother Hu Bijiang, the president of Central South Bank, asked someone to buy some honey cakes at Qilin Pavilion on Yuanmen Bridge, and prepared to take them back to Shanghai as gifts. I also plan to buy a few pieces to bring back to Beiping, so that my relatives and friends can taste the taste of Yangzhou's famous bee sugar cake. Xu Shaopu, the manager of Qianyiyong Salt Co. At that time, their masters were all taught by the apprentices of the handsome cook in the salt house. Although the handsome cook is now a senior citizen and has returned home for the elderly, but if you let him make it A few pieces of bee candy cake, he must be happy to serve his old club and devote himself to it (the handsome chef was the chef used by the ancestors to serve as the official in northern Jiangsu).

Sure enough, when I returned to Beiping after the meeting, Chef Shuai made several large pieces of bee sugar cake and sent them to me. Because I couldn't carry them, I gave two pieces to Chen Hanguang's in-laws to try.Han Lao is good at food and drink. He said that in the past, Zhusheng of Yuanmen Bridge and Datong of Duozi Street made bee sugar cakes, which were better than Qilin Pavilion. Master Shuai’s bee candy cake is unique in Yangzhou, but it’s a pity that he didn’t try it. It’s a pity that he can eat it after a few years; The taste of the sugar cake was different, and I was so happy that I immediately wrote a seal couplet as a gift.If it weren't for the merit of the bee sugar cake, if you want to get this old calligraphy, you may not be able to get it in three to five months!

Before the Anti-Japanese War, one autumn, I had tea at the Fuchun Flower Bureau in Yangzhou.Chen Buyun, the owner of the flower bureau, has a lot of research on tea blending. Fuchun tea is made of several kinds of tea, which can be brewed four times without changing the color. Ying accompanied Gu Lanjun to take advantage of the opportunity to go to Jiaoshan to shoot a movie on location, and cross the river to Fuchun to eat Yangzhou dim sum.Li Ying and Chen Buyun are also acquainted, and Gu Lanjun wants to eat honey cake as soon as he sits down.But honey cakes are only sold in tea shops in Yangzhou. Teahouses sell dim sum, but honey cakes are never sold.Chen Buyun knew that Shuai Chef was the best at making bee sugar cakes, and I was the only one who could bother him, so Chen and Li whispered to each other that Shuai Chef had to make two extra pieces and bring them back to Shanghai to satisfy their hunger. Come on, it has been more than forty years.When I came to Taiwan, although some relatives and friends in northern Jiangsu knew how to make bee sugar cakes, I always felt that the sweetness was not enough after eating it. I don’t know if it’s because everyone pays attention to hygiene and reduces the amount of sugar and oil.

During the Anti-Japanese War, people were marching far away. One day, on a whim, I suddenly remembered the jade-faced bee cake sold at the dim sum shop in Dongsi Pailou, Beiping.By the time Beijing was conquered by victory and Beiping was demobilized, that dim sum shop had already closed down, and the jade-faced bee cakes from other stores tasted specious, far from what it used to be. , like the bee sugar cake of Yangzhou Yuanmen Bridge Qilin Pavilion, you will be satisfied.
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