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Chapter 20 Austrian Benevolent Leshan

traveler without boundaries 余秋雨 3473Words 2023-02-05
one From Italy to Austria, we know that we have entered Central Europe from southern Europe, and of course there will be a little change in our eyes. Of course, Italy is very interesting, but when you look up, you should always avoid those dilapidated and down-and-out scenes.The family business is too old, with too many corners, and the housekeepers don't care much anymore.Austria is different, everywhere clean and delicate, very organized.For the same small town in Italy, it must show its age lazily, allowing tourists to step on it lightly and marvel; Maybe some critics will accuse Austria's approach of being uncultured, as if culture must be a yellow scroll, decaying walls and pillars, and unspeakable words.But the small towns in Austria are obviously arguing: we will preserve cultural relics and historic sites, but why must ordinary streets and buildings compete with wrinkles and age spots?

Vienna, the capital of Austria, is of course different from the small towns. Although it is not very old, it is very cultural.A traveler commented more than a hundred years ago: In Vienna, looking up and bowing is all about culture.I don't know whether this sentence is a compliment or a derogation, but it seems to be a derogation, because all the display cultures are accumulated too densely, which is really tiring.The next comment was a derogation and a compliment: Living in Vienna, it is difficult to leave every day when I want to leave.The best example of this comment is Beethoven. He actually moved more than 80 times within a city, and he never left. It can be seen that Vienna really has some magic power.But this magic is more specific to Beethoven, that is, the audience base and overall atmosphere of the capital of music at that time.

To this day, this magical power has frozen into a repetitive commemoration. Art no longer has a vigorous creative momentum, and citizens no longer have a strong passion for discovery. Everything about art masters being accepted, supported, and neglected in Vienna A legend will always be a legend.Of course, it still has connotation and momentum, but the heavy cultural burden makes it fall into procedural commemorative gathering everywhere, and its own social and economic development status prevents it from being a procedural commemoration like Paris, London, and Berlin. Infused with a substantial modern spirit, it appears dull and sleepy as a result.The Austrians understand this and have already begun their aesthetic and ecological betrayal of Vienna.

A contemporary look in Austria, beyond Vienna and even beyond the Vienna Woods.You should go a little farther to find it, go to those mountain villages that were originally regarded as remote wilderness, and go to the mountain roads from Innsbruck to Salzburg and Linz.When searching, if there is a path, you should try to take it as much as possible. It is of course better to stop and stay for a while. Austria's mountainous countryside betrayed not only Vienna, but also the maritime civilization that was the backbone of Europe.The whole country is not surrounded by the sea, which will bring too many limitations to transportation, freight, climate, and scenery, but the first sentence of their national anthem proudly declares: the country of mountains.It is an anomaly of Europe and thus greatly enriches Europe.

two Austria's mountainous countryside made me wonder: Do I like mountains or water? The liking mentioned here does not refer to occasional sightseeing, but to long-term residence.Occasionally, you can see a little bit of beauty when you visit everywhere, but it will be different if you live seriously.It is best to live on the plains for convenience, but life is not all about convenience.Whether it is facing the water or leaning against the mountains, there will be some inconveniences, and even some catastrophes will be caused, but in comparison, there are more troubles in the mountains.It looks like a good mountain from the outside, but once you live in its nest, you will soon feel closed, cramped, rough, and messy. This kind of ecological image is exactly the opposite of the waterside.

Perhaps it is for this reason that large households in prosperous towns have always been able to leave the mountains, but they never leave the water. Perhaps it is for this reason that my previous dreams about the living environment were not much related to water. However, the Austria in front of me has clearly got rid of most of the ills of mountain living, which surprised me. The first is the purification of images, which is the most difficult to do in mountainous areas.Their method is to plant carpet-like velvet grass all over the mountains and slopes, or to renovate patches of neat forests, with harmonious and unified tones, never messy or jumping.As a result, at first glance, it is completely pure and beautiful, and all kinds of chaos and chaos have been erased.This also erases the psychological blockage of the mountains to people, leaving behind an open charm, such as the grand waves and the tranquility of the sea of ​​clouds.The advantage of the seaside is nothing more than that, right?But it is quieter and safer than the seaside.

Followed by the convergence of traces.The grasslands and forests that have been rehabilitated are of course caused by manpower, but the traces of man are completely hidden, and only the natural forces are fully revealed.All the farmhouses, though refined, were all in pure natural colours, either log, taupe, or deep black, and nothing else.In terms of shape, it also pursues the effect of wooden houses and huts, without the slightest ostentation, and is willing to be covered and buried by nature.This situation is very different from that in rural China.Due to the long-term poverty, China has always advocated fighting against the sky and the earth, always trying to leave a very clear man-made imprint on the earth, or at least paint some slogans.After the reform and opening up, the countryside became rich rapidly, but a large number of chaotic and colorful images of getting rich were hastily built, which put human traces above nature.Only when I came to Austria did I understand that only when people restrain themselves can they enjoy the most perfect nature, and the highest charm of the countryside is nature.

Some people say that in order to reach the state of rural Austria, one needs to go through a process of negation of negation, that is, at the beginning of prosperity, let people show their talents, and when they become rich to a certain level, they will improve their education and aesthetic standards, and then let them restrain themselves.This process can also be called the syllogism of low-level naturalization and denaturalization and high-level naturalization.There is some truth to this statement, but people should strive to avoid the detour of the second stage (that is, denaturalization), and try to make the mountainous countryside move from low-level to high-level under the principle of naturalization.This is because the entry and exit of denaturalization will cost a lot of money, and will eventually cause irreparable damage to nature.However, it is not easy to skip this stage, which depends on the cultural and educational level of farmers themselves, and also depends on the intervention and guidance of high-level designers.Austria’s mountainous countryside does not see any traces of the demolition of unnaturalized buildings. Obviously, it has not taken much detours, and has reached a high-level naturalized state in the most frugal way.

Even in the mountainous countryside of Austria, there are almost no traces of those urbanites who think they love the natural scenery very much, but damage the natural scenery with eye-catching villas and resorts.Many urbanites around us don't know that when they put their back-to-nature slogan into practice, they actually harass nature.The architectural style and building materials they brought in to obtain the mountain scenery from the window are incompatible with the plain nature of the mountains, and as a result, bit by bit, they erode the overall aesthetic ecology of the mountainous countryside.There must be many city people living in such a beautiful mountainous countryside in Austria. They are obviously much more humble. To return to nature, they must first return themselves to a casual villager. Completely melted, like rain into a lake, regardless of each other.

From this, an interesting tongue twister emerges: Austria's mountainous countryside is very livable because it's populated by very suitable people. three Austria balances the relationship between mountains and water in Europe, which reminds me of the ancient Chinese philosophy of mountains and water. Confucius did not favor one or the other for mountains and waters. He said the famous eight words: the wise enjoy the water, and the benevolent enjoy the mountains. The ancient Chinese like to use metaphors to find the counterpart of the quality of life in nature. Therefore, the free flow of water is regarded as a symbol of a wise man, and the tranquility and self-preservation of a mountain is regarded as a symbol of a benevolent man.These are not just general metaphors and symbols. Confucius clearly pointed out that both the wise and the benevolent will choose their favorite natural environment, which is close to the corresponding relationship of psychological formats mentioned by modern psychology.In my memory, the pre-Qin philosophers all liked to use mountains and rivers to compare human philosophy, but the most brilliant is the saying that the wise enjoy water and the benevolent enjoy mountains, and people still have many associations to this day.

The oceanic civilization and the great river civilization have broad horizons, access to far and near, and advocating change. This has long been proved by history.The qualities such as alertness, responsiveness, sharpness, enlightenment, etc. produced by such civilizations often become advanced forces for promoting social change.In contrast, once the mountain civilization is stripped of the burden of occlusion, it will also bring stability to society and history in the form of honesty, simplicity, security, self-sufficiency, perseverance, loyalty, and unswerving. This is often regarded as backwardness in the past. tendency. In fact, as far as life is concerned, it should also be balanced between mountains and water.The water's edge gives joy, and the mountains give comfort.The waterside allows us to perceive the impermanence of the world, and the mountains allow us to comprehend the constant prosperity of the world.The waterside allows us to enjoy the excitement of traveling away from the arms of the elders, and the mountains allow us to experience the leisurely taste of returning to the residence of our ancestors.The philosophy of the waterside is not to give up day and night, and the philosophy of the mountains is not to know the sun and the moon. Because of this, I think that when a person is young, he can watch the sea, enjoy the tide, and choose the current to live in. When he is old, or if he has a calm mind before he is old, he might as well settle down in the mountains. At the moment, I am standing at the intersection of Seefeld, a small mountain town in Innsbruck, looking at the charming mountain ecology.Those log-colored or dark brown farmhouses are full of flowers in front of the door, and there are piles of red-faced, white-bearded, well-dressed old people sitting at the door.They have nothing to do, but they don't look lonely, they don't seem to be thinking about anything, and they don't look around.When they met our eyes, they smiled, and that expression said: Come out to play?The weather is great!Not expecting much response from you. There are also many middle-aged and young people living here.At the house on my left, my wife just drove in a small white car, and my husband went out on a motorcycle.But their cars and motorcycles are hidden behind the house, not because they are afraid of being stolen, but because they are afraid that such modern objects will steal the magnificent scenery.His wife was happily chopping firewood in front of the house, and the freshly chopped firewood had already been built into a beautiful low wall. It is August now, and the mountain wind is already blowing. It can be imagined that it will be very cold here in winter.These logs will then turn into white clouds in the chimney and float from the roof.The snow-covered mountains will greet this fluttering silver with a quiet silver, and then the two silvers will blend and depend on each other in mid-air.Suddenly there are a few colored flying spots piercing the two silvery whites, that is people skiing.
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