Chapter 21 Abandoned on the cliff

one Salzburg, pouring rain. Take an umbrella and walk down a small path towards the city's iconic castle. How can it rain so heavily in the mountains of Central Europe?There are many sculptures that can be vaguely seen in the rain curtain, but I can't stick my head out of the umbrella to take a closer look.Their solemn and peaceful demeanor is a little funny when it is wet by the rain.When it is inconvenient for others, it doesn't matter if you don't look at it. The castle is on the cliff, you have to take the cable car up.In the past, there was no cable car, and it was extremely difficult to go up once.In the era of the unity of politics and religion, this castle was the official residence of the archbishop, that is, the head of the government. It looked down on all living beings but isolated them so much. From this situation, it was the Middle Ages, and it was far from the city-state system of Greece and Rome.

At the gate of the castle, you need to climb the ancient spiral staircase with your feet.The barrel-shaped parts on both sides of the ancient castle are where the stairs are.The stairs turned smaller and smaller, and turned higher and higher. When everyone was dizzy, there was finally a small door. Entering sideways, it turned out to be magnificent, bright and spacious. The archbishop lived alone in a heavenly place. Later, the bishops went down because of the changes of the times that made them go down.As a result, the ancient castle quickly entered history and was upgraded to a historic site, allowing people to look up without fear and climb sweaty.

I love this kind of climbing.It is a pity to pay homage to the ancient monuments and get your wish if you step into it.History is bumpy, history is dark, history is the horror of rotation, history is the luxury of secret storage, history is mud in heavy rain, history is abandonment on the cliff, therefore, it cannot be entered too easily. two This castle is huge. There are many reasons for making it so big, one of the most important and most unclear reasons is that Archbishop Kaushah has a bad relationship with the people, and he is unwilling or afraid to go out. It's funny: majestic because of autism, huge because of timidity.

There are even funnier ones. Another archbishop was imprisoned in this castle, and his name was Dietrich.The reason is that he violated the canon and publicly had a lover, which is not funny. What is funny is that he and his lover had fifteen children!On the day the archbishop with fifteen illegitimate children was imprisoned, the castle became the object of ridicule throughout the city.The people laughed when they looked up, and they completely confused looking up and looking down. Salzburg was never serious again. Archbishop Sitikus became even more mischievous after he went down the mountain. He even secretly dug the fountain hole on the VIP seat beside the open-air banquet table, and ordered someone to open it quietly when the ceremony was solemn.At this time, what he wants to appreciate is not the guests' embarrassment, but the guests' pretended calmness.

He must not be laughing loudly, because this will shorten the time for the guests to pretend to be calm.He also tried his best to make every guest feel that it was only him who was soaking in the crotch at the moment, and it had nothing to do with others.He will find some particularly relaxed and particularly serious topics to chat with the guests one by one, and even discuss the essence of religion. Before that, he will use a lot of brains on the selection of guests, especially those who are awe-inspiring and dignified. I found this banquet table and these VIP chairs, and did a water test, thinking, as long as I have sat here, no one will be pious and serious again.

So, maybe, this archbishop is still a partiality of the religious reformation, an alternative to changing customs and customs? What is ridiculous is not that there are alternatives among the bishops, but that the alternatives have become archbishops. three There are so many ridiculous things, and finally reached the peak.In the monastery cemetery in Salzburg, there are seven tombstones juxtaposed in a row. It is said that seven wives of a local stonemason are buried.But there is also controversy, saying that the mason himself was also inside. Originally, this was very ordinary and not worth visiting, but it has become a lively tourist spot because the cause of death of the stonemason's wives is too bizarre.

It turned out that each of them was tickled by the stonemason, the itching was unbearable, and they died laughing out loud!Why would a stonemason tickle his wife in this way?If it is a method of murder, it is too cruel, why is it necessary? If it's fun in the boudoir, it's outrageous to miss one person, how could it be possible to keep doing it one after another? In short, no matter which possibility it is, it is not a good thing, but why are tourists willing to come here happily?What everyone thinks of in front of those tombstones is a group of women laughing so hard that they can't breathe, it's a happy fight between husband and wife, and they refuse to pursue any death files. What is the reason for this?

I think it's mainly because everyone is going to die and laugh, but it never occurred to me that I could die laughing and die laughing. Hard life, who can resist this kind of laughter of life and death?So all the question marks hidden behind it were deleted. Folk and secular stories have never talked about strict logic, so they are innocent, so childish and grotesque, so they are wild and interesting. Although Salzburg is amazingly beautiful, it has been lonely for a long time. I remember a German scholar said that until the late eighteenth century, hardly any great travelers passed through Salzburg, because apart from the glorious buildings and beautiful pastoral scenery Besides, there is nothing more attractive, the great life is not here, but in another world.Political centers in Vienna, Paris, London, St. Petersburg, in Milan, Rome, Naples

Just because they are not important and others don't come, the people of Salzburg and their bishop, regardless of logic, not according to the norms, regardless of rank, laugh and laugh, and become the sun and the moon. However, the legend about the stonemason's wives brought some unlucky signs to this kind of laughter. Four The huge castle that I climbed up with great difficulty has been repaired and expanded continuously by successive bishops, and the completion has been delayed until 1756.I haven't read any descriptions of the inauguration ceremony of the castle, so it's probably not too grand, because the current bishop no longer has the motivation to build it, and his eyes have already set his sights on the mountain.

However, one of the bishop's musicians was celebrating another happy event at home. His son happened to be born at the beginning of the year, named Wolfgang Mozart. No one knew at the time that this was a thousand times more important than the completion of the castle. I have read many kinds of biographies of Mozart, they have different standpoints, and the content is quite contradictory, but none of them doubts his rare greatness, and none of them is not sad and tear-jerking. That is to say, Salzburg finally aspired to greatness, so it began to bid farewell to that kind of secular laughter.

Salzburg is no longer untouched, on the contrary, it will not be omitted by any truly great traveler, because it has contributed to all mankind an eternal great man.The highest symbol of Salzburg is no longer the cliff castle.It is strange that the day it was built was the day it was abandoned. A city changes its coordinates so quickly, and thus also changes its living atmosphere and aesthetic style. five The psychological dialogue between hometown and celebrities is not necessarily smooth and pleasant, but often full of thorns.The occasional communication among the thorns is very painful.Please listen to what the people of Salzburg say today: Mozart's greatness and sorrow are all because he left Salzburg. I understand that statement, and those biographical fragments flashed through my mind. There is a legend that Mozart died in Vienna at the age of thirty-five. On the day of the funeral, there was no music, no relatives, only heavy snow and biting cold wind. An old gravedigger buried the thin wooden coffin in the grave of the poor.A few days later, his sickly wife came from other places to search, but couldn't find the tombstone, so she could only ask the old man who looked at the tomb: Do you know where they buried my husband?His name is Mozart. The old man watching the grave said: Mozart?never heard of that. This ending happened in Vienna, no Salzburger could read it, and no music lover in any country or city could read it. It’s fine if you don’t want to return to the hometown of the wanderer’s body. The problem is that Salzburg can’t help but ask you how you lost him?Competing for all his achievements but losing him!But at that time, the only questioner was his sickly wife, and she only inquired softly, because the object was the old man who was watching the grave. However, another kind of biography once gave me a thunderbolt. It turned out that the main responsibility was on this sick wife, who was the root of the tragedy in Mozart's life.The author of this kind of biography made a judgment after consulting various account books, letters, notes, and manuscripts. In fact, Mozart has never been short of money, and it can even be said that he was well paid and gifted generously. Make a mess.Even his funeral received a large amount of donations, and it was his wife who decided to be highly frugal.It was not a few days later that his wife inquired about the location of his cemetery, but seventeen years later, and she was forced to do so due to the pressure of outside inquiries.There is also evidence that this wife not only ruined Mozart, but even Mozart's parents and sister, so that the most face-saving old Mozart could only spend his old age in the ridicule of Salzburgers. Old Mozart knew that Salzburg had reasons for ridicule.The starting point of this wrong marriage is not Salzburg, but the distant Mannheim.Even the letters that the twenty-one-year-old Mozart had written after meeting the family there had turned into vitriolic attacks, which the father had tried to prevent but failed. In fact, the so-called ridicule of the whole city is just the sensitivity of old Mozart. Salzburg knows music, knows what he has raised and what he has lost. Salzburg is more contemplative: Why is a great musical life so clumsy in emotional choices?Why does a shocking spiritual system fall into an evil trap that even ordinary people can quickly discover?How did his childlike ignorance lead to a high degree of artistic maturity?Why hasn't his inner trauma been revealed in the music?How could he play the most beautiful music in the world after hearing the most vulgar domestic reproach?How did his genius fingers tremble and write those humble and begging words that day? Ordinary people can only try to interpret the master at a height within their own capabilities, and their thinking is based on the daily behavior map. In fact, this cannot be interpreted by the masters, because the masters are mainly active in another heaven. However, even in that sky domain, can it be interpreted?not necessarily.Salzburg was ashamed of its confusion about Mozart, but the voice of Goethe in his later years came: The phenomenon of Mozart is a mystery that the eighteenth century will never understand. Even Goethe admitted that he would never understand, let alone Salzburg. During my visit this time, what they quoted the most was a question and answer by Einstein.In this regard, they feel even more honorable, but also more difficult to understand: Questioner: Mr. Einstein, what does death mean to you? Answer: It means that you can no longer listen to Mozart. All of this undoubtedly greatly increased the burden on Salzburg's thinking.Unless you don't want Mozart, if you want it, you can't remove it. six A city that has always been naughty and laughing suddenly adds so much depth just because of the birth and death of a person. I don't know if this is good or bad for ordinary citizens of Salzburg? Honor is easy to be stripped, and fame is troublesome to a man as to a city.Today's Salzburg has to host large-scale world music events time and time again with a smile on its face. In order to facilitate outsiders to buy gifts, a large number of brand logos are Mozart, and even the wine bottles and chocolate boxes are childish. colorful profile picture.This makes me vigilant that the excessive publicity of a high-level culture will also produce some kind of unfair monopoly, which will cause the general public to lose their aesthetic autonomy, cause the secular culture to lose its original vitality, and also cause the high-level culture to lose its due identity. In European culture, masters emerge in large numbers and classics are like a cloud, which makes the secular culture gloomy as a whole, the passion of life is getting tired day by day, and the innocence, simplicity and wildness are lost.This is a problem I have seen in many cities along the way.Austria is as big as Vienna and as small as Salzburg.For this reason, I miss the farce of this city before Mozart appeared. But then again, only the emergence of cultural masters can quickly rid a city of mediocrity and boredom as a whole, and then discuss the issue of saving secular culture at a new level.If you always face the secular world with mediocrity, you will be completely muddy and deserted, and wandering for thousands of years can only be the sinking of group life. Therefore, if there is a Mozart, there will be a mountain ridge that surpasses the muddy road and the barren beach.Over this mountain ridge, everything is different.