Chapter 2 <Lily of the Plateau︱Travel in Bolivia>

When the plane is about to land at the world's highest airport.Aldo, a European passenger sitting behind me was so nervous that he asked the stewardess for oxygen first. Everyone's attention was focused on the middle-aged man slumped in his seat. At this moment, a Japanese man in the front row also started to feel strange. Ou Di sighed and then fell silent. The two stewardesses held the oxygen cylinders to breathe for them, which made all the passengers on the plane panic. I leaned myself against the back of the chair in front of me, my face was pale, I couldn't speak, and my hands were cold.

Next to me, an old Japanese gentleman who had been to La Paz kept holding my hand, held a thin book for me to beat the air, and said gently: Don't be afraid!Just don't be afraid! In fact, I didn't have any fear at all, it was just that I was severely airsick because the plane was descending. When you arrive, walk slowly, don't take a hot bath, don't eat too much, let alone drink alcohol, and you will be fine the next day! I'm not Before he finished speaking, the Japanese gentleman added another sentence: no talking, save oxygen! Hearing his instructions, I burst out laughing first, then really didn't say a word.

When I got off the plane, I entrusted Misha with all the things I carried, knowing that my heart was not good, so I didn't try to be brave. The plain at an altitude of 4,100 meters is the highest terrain I have ever faced in my life. Here, the runway of the airport is also longer than normal; because the air resistance is different. On the first day on this plateau, I slowed down as much as possible. My pace was as slow as walking, and the policeman beside the plane laughed. Bolivia, Tibet in South America, when I think of it in the past, I always have a mysterious yearning in my heart.

Even at the airport, the vast prairie has presented an extraordinary and extremely quiet beauty. There were a lot of people entering the country, some of them went to queue as if they had nothing to do, others were about like me, it was their first time, and most of them sat down first, not daring to move. For a traveler, whether a country's airport is luxurious or not is actually not very important. Whether the inspection and customs officers are fast and friendly are the first impressions of a country. Although Bolivia's airports are not too grand, but no matter in which respect, they have given passengers a sincere welcome and thoughtful service, making people feel at home.

The information given to me by the passenger service center is still a bit too expensive for us. On the long list of hotels, there is no place less than 40 dollars a day, and some are even more expensive to about 100 dollars a day. It is said that there is no bus going into the city, and a taxi can be combined with a person, and the fare is very reasonable, one yuan and fifty cents per person. I got used to the taxi and didn't know which hotel to go to, so I didn't panic. The driver who drove the car was the best consultant, and they would take it with me. The driver is not only enthusiastic, but also the three Bolivians who are sitting with him are also very good. The hotels they came up with for us are all because the price is too low, which makes people feel a little bit at a loss.

I can pay more, preferably with a private bathroom.I am a little embarrassed to say. The car took several detours to find a hotel, and finally stopped at the side of the sloping street of the Witch Market in the old district. When I saw the area with such a strong local flavor, I liked it first, and then I went to the hotel to see it, and it was good, so I stayed. When paying the fare, I felt sorry for bothering the driver, so I tipped 30% more.There is not much money, and the grateful attitude of the driver makes people feel the simplicity and loyalty of this country again. After putting down our luggage, we first went to a street stall to buy coca leaves to treat the altitude sickness we were about to develop, knowing that we couldn't escape.

In fact, there is still a large bag of these leaves in the city of Gus, Peru, which is not used up, but because they are afraid that they will be taken in the luggage and passed through the border, and the customs will treat them as drugs, so they stay. Coca leaves are not actually a drug, and maybe a ton of leaves can't extract a few grams of cocaine. Residents of the plateau drink a few tablets with boiling water, just to help them breathe. The restaurant of the hotel brought a large pot of boiling water and asked them how much it was, and they said there was no charge.Giving small bills to those who bring water, in exchange for repeated thanks, is flattering and astonishing, as if the people who came here to receive favors make people feel at a loss, and can't help but want to repay them even more.

Along the way, as long as you enter a country that is mixed with Indian blood, in my experience, there is always an extra part of their loyalty and kindness to others. Ecuador is like family, Peru is also a group of harmony, and now Bolivia is even more humble. In this large plateau country of more than one million square kilometers, there are less than six million residents, 70% of whom are Indians, and 25% are Spanish and local people. , 5 percent are Caucasians who immigrated from Europe. Bolivia is one of the two countries in South America without a seaport. It borders Peru and Chile in the west, Brazil in the northeast, and Argentina and Paraguay in the south.

Before 1879, Bolivia's original territory stretched all the way to the Pacific Ocean. Because of a five-year battle to occupy the desert mines, that piece of coastal land was taken away by Chile and has not been able to get it back until now. Although Chile agrees with Bolivia to use one of the original seaports, the meaning and convenience are different. Although La Paz is generally recognized as the highest capital in the world, in fact the real capital of Bolivia is in another city, Sucre. Because the diplomatic missions and government ministries are all working in La Paz, and only the Supreme Court is still in session in Sucree, La Paz is generally regarded as the capital of the country.

When I first arrived in La Paz, I didn’t feel too much discomfort except my breathing was not smooth. In addition to my previous experience in Ecuador and the Peruvian highlands, I knew how to make coca tea and take medicine. After two or three hours of rest, I was fine. up. witch market Before I came to Bolivia, I mentioned the witchcraft street here several times in the reference book, saying that it should not be missed. Unexpectedly, there is not twenty steps outside the door of my hotel to the famous side street. After the rest, I quickly put on thick clothes and went to play in the street. In summer on the plateau, even at noon, I wear a thin sweater, and at night I have to add another one.

The stone-paved streets slanted down towards the center of the city. The feeling of the old European city, because the Spaniards invaded South America, they built this European style all the way to another continent. Just under those beautiful old buildings, there are stalls of street shops. The nuns who keep the stalls wear silk embroidered natural flowers and long fringed shawls, and wear knee-length and pleated skirts. Wearing double thick braids, the chubby ones are selling witchcraft props that they believe in. The Indians here are different from those in Ecuador and Peru in terms of dress and attire. Although at first glance, the fedora hat on their heads remains the same, in fact, they are another culture. Even in terms of language, besides the Qichuan dialect, there is another kind of Aimara, which sounds extremely gentle. Of course, the nuns could speak Spanish. The nuns sold hands, feet, and animals carved in stone, as well as exotic seeds and wool, and many small bottles that had been prepared and filled with symbols of good luck. In order for Mammy not to bore me, I first bought a row of stone carvings of small animals, saying that they were meant to keep domestic animals safe. What about this dry bird?I pointed to a dead animal with big black eyes and asked them. It's not a bird, it's an aborted llama. The selling woman laughed. What disease?Who to call for love?Or travel safely? The woman who is not used for those things laughed again. You buy it and bury it when you build the house. You will be lucky.she says. What about those fancy yarns?I asked again. To match, light wool is useless. In the basement of the stall over there is a plate of good luck like dishes prepared one by one. The business of the stall is good, and there are always locals coming to buy something. Mother!Are these things smart?Should I ask someone to recite the mantra?I looked at a small bottle I bought, and there was a lot of small things soaked in oil, red and green, and there was a worm in it. No need, put it in your left pocket and good luck will come. It's just the words of Mammy Witchcraft, and I can't believe it, but I just can't put it in my right pocket. Rather than saying that these colorful stalls are a superstition, it is better to regard them as a precious folklore and myth. At that stall, I bought an old thing carved in stone. People here call her the Mother Earth of Bancha Mama. It is said that this kind of stone carving of the mother of the earth should be quietly buried in the soil at home. Every year on her birthday, she will be invited out, poured sesame oil on the stone carving soil for worship, and then buried back in the ground, so that the mother of the earth The mother must bless the prosperity of the fields and livestock. At such a stall, every time you buy a small item, you will bring some kind of promise to people. Just the expectation alone is worth the little money you pay. During those countless walks, my witchy nun sold me every symbol of money, happiness, love, health, peace. They are doing business, and I bought all the wishes of a person in his life. In comparison, I should be the one who earns. For me, who has a deep belief, there is actually nothing to ask for in witchcraft, but the mood of the game and the joy of folklore are all satisfied in these small stalls. The witchcraft in Central and South America is no longer available, only seeing them openly sold in the market in Bolivia feels fresh. What is very interesting here is that in a museum, there is also a witchcraft showroom in a room. The things in it are almost the same as those sold on the street, but the explanation is clearer. Those things about cursing people are clearly explained in the museum. As for myself, I don’t have that much hatred for people, so I avoid them, and I don’t have the heart to inquire about how to harm people. Orulu's Devil The day of the carnival is getting closer. When I was in the ancient city of Gusco in Peru, I made a large group of friends who were also travelers. Most of their next stop was to enter Brazil from the border to participate in Rio.Carnival revelry in de Janeiro. A few people who traveled repeatedly dragged me to Brazil, saying that such a grand event should not be missed, and I would regret it for the rest of my life. I knew that the carnival there would be crazy and brilliant, and there would be many drunk people, and the hotel would be a problem. The noise of crazy people all over the city might not really be able to arouse the happiness of travelers, so I couldn't insist on going. Carnival is celebrated in Bolivia as well, only in a different form that no other country has. In a miner's city called Olulu, they danced a completely folk-style dance, which was counted as the grand ceremony of the carnival. That dance was called the Devil's Dance. The devils have wives, and the wives will come out to parade in the streets. The ghost's wife is called China, which is the same as the name of a Chinese woman. When I first arrived in La Paz, the hotel was full of people who came here to participate in the carnival. Oururu is a small city of 110,000 people 200 kilometers away from La Paz, and the carnival there is the largest in Bolivia. The guy at the hotel counter kept selling me tickets for one-day round-trip tours for fifty dollars each. I felt that if I could take a long-distance bus, what I could see and hear would be better than going with the group, so I refused to participate. The people at the hotel told me that since we arrived the day before, we couldn't get a bus ticket no matter what. Even so, I still climbed a long slope, and I went to one bus company after another. The tickets were indeed sold out, and I refused to give up, standing at the window and saying good things to people. The people in Bolivia are kind-hearted. After being begged several times by me, they shyly took out a refund ticket and agreed to sell it to me without adding money. I was the only one who could get a ticket. Of course Misha wasn't happy standing by. I knew they didn't have any, so I didn't want to be unreasonable, so I bought this ticket first. After waiting for a while, a lady came and said she wanted a refund, but it was on the same train, so I snatched both seats. In the early morning of the second day, the sky was still completely dark, so he called Misha and walked to the bus terminal panting in the dark street. In such a high place, if we go uphill again, we will have a terrible headache. After dragging for dozens of steps, we can’t walk anymore. On the street in the early morning, there is a taxi that takes us to the station, and it is kind and grateful. kind of good people. Bolivia is generally said to be a backward country, but our bus is a registered Mercedes-Benz bus. It is not only punctual, clean and luxurious, but also has a sincere service attitude. It is the best in South America. . The construction of the station is very modern, there are good shuttle buses, and there are no crowds. Most of the passengers are locals. The clothes are not luxurious but they are definitely not shabby. That kind of upbringing and kindness may not be found anywhere else in the world. The car climbed up around the road, and the city of La Paz at the foot faded away in a fog. The endless grassland wakes up in the cold air facing the morning sun, and a row of snow-capped mountains are frozen in the far sky. Even the pink rays of the sun cannot warm them. Such a clear and clean plateau washes away all the joys and sorrows in the world. feelings. What is a prairie and what is a real mountain is a comprehension only after going to the Andes highlands. If the scenery of the earth can also affect a person's heart, then I am the one who has achieved the Tao. The clouds followed our car smoothly on the grass, and if we got off the car, we could catch a cloud; we must not forget that we were at a distance of more than 4,000 meters. The devil dance in Olulu City is really not important, but the scenery along the way is a cleansing of the soul. If a person can die under such a clean and majestic blue sky, it is also a kind of happiness! At the height of beauty, I have no other thought but to die and make this moment eternal. There are goshawks soaring in the distant sky, flocks of cattle, sheep and llamas on the grassland, and those men and women dressed in national flavor are running wildly against the green grass under the clouds. Is this scene the same in Qinghai and Xikang? ? I was fascinated by the scenery for several times, the car stopped at the checkpoint, and a group of beautiful Indian women with narrow faces rushed to the car to sell boiled corn and goat cheese. These are all my favorite foods, and I stretched out my hand to pay a small amount, and what I got in return was a sincere thank you. How could this country not love it. When Oululu arrived, the long-distance bus was parked outside the city, and then transferred to the bus in the city to enter the city center. The bus was too crowded. I couldn't push people, so I stood below and yelled. Seeing that I couldn't get on, the driver stretched out his hand and pulled me hard to secure me, and supported me with both hands before he was called to drive. This kindness is a symbol of Bolivia. Everyone is a child of God, and they have no shame in this name. The parade has already started, and Misha is anxious to find the stands to go up, but I stubbornly insist on buying the return ticket first, otherwise I can't rest assured. After buying the ticket for the return journey, I turned around to find a seat in the stands among the crowds. It would be irritating to be shot with a powerful water gun along the way.This is also the custom of carnivals in several South American countries. The stands were built by the local people along the street. There are five floors in total. Each seat charges five dollars, and they have the right to sit and watch the parade for two days. The two we found are on the fourth floor. There were all kinds of people watching the dance on the same stage. On the upper floor were two old Indian mothers. My thick sweater was so crowded that there was no room for them to put it, so they immediately picked it up and kept it for me. There are forty-five dance teams in total, most of which are formed by people in Olulu City.This bitter city that works hard to mine tin mines on weekdays is full of carnival today. It is a kind of wisdom to be so brave and happy. The group of devils appeared on the stage, first the band took the lead, and after a long time of quarrel, under the applause and shouts of everyone, groups of devils wearing masks came singing and dancing. I thought it was a group of ghosts with disheveled hair and green faces and fangs, but I saw a so-called lion mask painted red, green and green, with big eyes, wearing a shawl embroidered with dragons and phoenixes, and a unicorn lying on its chest. The costumes of the devils. This is an old thing from our China. Look at those dragons and phoenixes. I called out to an Olulu girl sitting next to me. How is it possible!This custom was passed down a long time ago, and it belongs to Bolivia!She persisted. But the Chinese came to South America earlier than the Spaniards. There are thousands of proofs of this. Where are you dragons and phoenixes? impossible.Another old gentleman got in too. Then why the devil's wives are called China, isn't it the same pronunciation as Chinese women, is it a coincidence?I asked. It is a coincidence that the Chinese have not been here!The old man said again. The surroundings are too noisy, and this kind of topic cannot continue, and my eyes almost eat up the endless groups of devils. They are indeed Chinese, and there is a precious knife in the lion's mouth. Isn't it just the picture engraved on the doors of many old houses in Anping, Tainan to ward off evil spirits? It is said that beside a lake on the outskirts of Olulu City, there are still a group of residents with Chinese facial makeup. Their language still has words similar to Chinese. As for where these people actually live, It cannot be inspected. Seeing Oululu's devil dance made people deeply feel that if a long-term investigation is carried out, there may be hope to find out the relationship between South American Indians and Asia. Although the Indians came from Mongolia through the unmelted ice sheets of Siberia, and then from Alaska all the way down to South America, it is a consistent explanation in every human museum, but Chinese culture must have been passed down later. Although there is no clue about these things, for example, the Indians in some villages here, when drinking, must first spill some wine on the ground, which is similar to the ancient Chinese custom of sacrificing ghosts of the past, which is really interesting matter. These famous devils in Ouluru have all been photographed as slides, let's enjoy them together when we return to Taiwan! satay On the last night when I came to La Paz, I met a younger brother from overseas Chinese. We went to have dinner together. When looking for a restaurant along the street, as long as it was opened by an Indian, he would directly call this kind of food a native meal. But I don't know that Bolivia's local flavor has a different culture and taste compared to other South American countries. It is really excellent and not rustic at all. If a country's food is considered part of civilization, then Bolivia's civilization is commendable. Here, tens of dollars in tourist hotels is also a good meal, and there are also different, cheap and high-quality foods in the streets, vegetable markets and ordinary small restaurants. Because this country has the highest lake in the world, Digol, trout is not too expensive here. Their spicy chicken is the only one in South America, and the beef tongue is not inferior to Costa Rica. Even the color and aroma of the dishes made by the restaurant are definitely not rough. Many people heard that Bolivia was backward, and only after they came here did they realize that the rumors were untrue and ridiculous. It is obviously an excellent country. Here, there is no bad food, but the stalls set up by Indian women on the street with candles, all taste first-class seasoning. My favorite is a kind of local-style grilled dumplings, which I like to translate as satay nang, baked flour crust, filled with juicy and spicy chicken, pork, potatoes and onions, one by one on the warm In the fire-heated glass cabinet, there are twenty-five dollars each, the size of a small wallet. This is the most common food. Every morning, when I leave the hotel, I must have a glass of fresh milk and two satays in a small Indian coffee shop nearby. Almost every local person who enters a coffee shop must eat one or two of these things for breakfast. Continental breakfasts such as milk and bread may be because I am too ordinary and I have not seen anyone eat them. In the small shop where I had breakfast, one hundred satays were ordered every day, and they were sold out before noon. It is more difficult to eat this kind of local flavor food in ordinary tourist restaurants. There is a lot to eat in Bolivia, and the flavors are different from other South American countries. As far as I know, there are still a lot of Chinese tourists coming to Bolivia. It would be a kind of enjoyment if we can give up sightseeing hotels and try their food on the streets. Personally, I reluctantly left Bolivia after eating the thirty-sixth satay. water fight I didn't bring enough winter clothes, and I always thought that the summer in South America was in January and February.I didn't expect that the terrain of the plateau needs a sweater to keep out the cold even in summer. I bought two sweaters in Peru, and a pure fur fur in Colombia, but lost my entire small bag due to a severe motion sickness, and lost the fur again when I left the hotel. Things outside of the body are easy to lose, and when it comes to La Paz, the situation forces me to buy a new sweater, which makes me happy for several minutes. When I was in La Paz, I wore that colorful hand-knitted sweater every day and never changed it because there was no second one. The carnival in Olulu will be soaked by water guns. When the white shirt inside the sweater is taken off at night, it is full of water stains. Only then did I find that the new sweater was too easily dyed by Indian mothers and would fade. . The carnival in Olulu is on Saturday, and the city of La Paz also started to sprinkle people with water on Sunday. This custom of splashing water is originally a fun thing. In the agricultural society, young men and women in each village knew each other. Sprinkling water can only enhance their relationship, and it is really harmless. La Paz is a big city, every house has a balcony, and many people have cars. On Sunday, they drove a medium-sized jeep truck filled with water, drove slowly on the street, and splashed wet when they saw passers-by. Don't dare to leave people under the balcony, there will be buckets pouring down at any time. Children on the side of the road bought balloon skins, filled them with water, and turned them into fat water bombs. People who passed by would eat one. My sweater was faded, and I dared not go out from the glass door of the hotel. When I was in Lima, Peru, I had already eaten a water bomb. The one dropped from the third floor hit me on the head. After getting one there, I came to Bolivia. If you don’t dare to go out, you won’t be able to eat satay, so after weighing it up, you still go out. On this narrow stone street, there were people standing on balconies on both sides. We walked a few steps and saw a passerby in a suit soaked in water by a bucket of water. Under this custom, no matter how wet you are, you can't curse. The man in the suit was really angry. He picked up a small stone on the side of the road and threw it at the person on the balcony. hit him!hit him!good!I yelled from the side of the road. This kind of game is not fair, and condescending people are all doing it. Obviously I was watching a good show, when I looked up, a bucket of water was poured down on the balcony where I was standing. oops!The sweater is faded!I didn't know how to run away, I just stood there screaming and begging. Then, my hair was wet all the way to my trousers. I told you it was faded, so why do you need to water it?I wiped the water off my face and yelled towards the balcony. At this time, another dipper of water poured down again, and I couldn't escape again. This time I got angry, and desperately slammed on the door of the downstairs entrance of the house, and wanted to go upstairs to fight with the family. Don't be angry!It's good luck to splash it!The above couldn't help laughing. It's a pity to miss this beautiful Sunday. Although it must be wet, I still walked around the streets and alleys of this ancient city with Misha, dodging like a frightened bird. Water is a cleansing thing, and it is harmless to play in the sun. Besides, the Bolivians I have come into contact with are really a group of touching and good people. They should also understand the principle of visiting the vulgar, and should not be offended. I ate more than a dozen water bombs that day, and my back was soaked. Others had no malicious intentions, so I laughed it off. The water fight is actually a splash all the way, and I have no tools. This special day is left on the sweater as a commemoration. city ​​of peace Dear Mr. Mayor: When we broke up that day, I forgot to tell you that my Chinese name has the same meaning as your lovely city, which is also called peace. When I first arrived in La Paz, I didn't know what kind of city and people I would face, and I was very at a loss. You already know that I live in an inn in the old city, not in those luxurious tourist hotels in La Paz, and just as you said to me: People like you should observe our towns and villages more deeply The people and the land should not just spend time traveling in grand hotels. Mr. Mayor, 18 short days have passed. In this fleeting time, although I took advantage of Bolivia’s convenient trains and long-distance buses to travel a long way to different towns, for La Paz, a special The city, or added a deeper feeling. Your city and your people have shown me the most sincere love and generosity during my stay, making travelers in foreign lands feel at home like me, and are reluctant to leave. The La Paz I see in my eyes is a city of peace.Here, the streets are clean, the buses are fast, and the cars are brand new.Taxi drivers are friendly, shops are courteous, and restaurant service is friendly no matter how big or small it is. In the square full of pigeons in the center of the city, even though it was full of people, they did not make any noise. They were a group of quiet and generous people. Your skyscrapers are built in the ancient European-style city center. The mix of old and new buildings does not destroy the style of the whole city, but only makes people feel comfortable. Here, my footprints have gone from several museums, the old city, the new district, streets, and alleys in La Paz to the flower market, vegetable market, and even the zoo and beauty salon. The people I have come into contact with are happy and peaceful in this land. In particular, I would like to thank La Paz for giving us so many big trees and squares. You love the shade, but you make travelers feel sad when walking on fallen leaves in the middle of the night, because they look forward to coming again. In your city, there is no robbery, no violence, no dishonesty, which makes me feel safe and at ease in this city as a traveler, without feeling of a foreign land. Traveling in Central and South America, although there are lovely people and picturesque scenery everywhere, it is rare to see people like Bolivia and cities like La Paz. I am a Chinese, I have my own home, my own country, and logically speaking, emotionally, I should not give such deep appreciation and love to another country. But I have to write this letter to you, please tell La Paz that even a Chinese cannot help loving this land. The reason is actually very simple, because Bolivia loved me first. When I was leaving, the lady in the coffee shop and the nanny who sold me the stone carving of Mother Earth on the side of the road all wet their eyes and shouted repeatedly: Mamma!Come back soon! Mr. Mayor, I am called here: Mamida!Already one of you, I am not a foreigner. You asked me what La Paz is like. I want to tell you that La Paz is an eternal lily that blooms on the green grass on the plateau. I will never forget its fragrance. As long as I meet people in the world, I am happy to tell them what kind of country Bolivia is and what kind of city La Paz is. I heard that you may visit my country, Taiwan, the Republic of China, in the early summer of this year. I hope that my compatriots will also give you a good impression and welcome you with the same upbringing and enthusiasm. When I broke up with you, I didn't leave your address. The lady at the information desk at the airport kindly wrote down the name of the city government for me. If this letter is only sent to you, then my country will not see the beauty of La Paz, so it is published in the newspaper, and it can be regarded as a Chinese's greatest gratitude and praise to Bolivia! Congratulations health Your friend Sincerely, Echo leave Along the way, my elders took good care of me, and wrote me business cards of introductions at all the places I traveled, asking me to contact the local Chinese agencies stationed abroad to seek travel information and help. My temperament is the most withdrawn, and I am even more restrained when I meet strangers. This may not be apparent from the outside, but it is really like that in the heart. It would make me feel ashamed to contact foreign agencies when I was in a place. Central and South America speak Spanish all the way, and there is no difficulty on the road, so those business cards are never used again, and I will never make the office staff more busy because of my arrival.After all, I just came here for a trip, nothing major. Two days before leaving Bolivia, I finally called the Chinese embassy. Mr. Zhang Wenxiong was speaking there. He heard me arrive and immediately asked me to have dinner. There was also a dinner with foreigners. Since I still had summer clothes and only one winter sweater, I insisted on declining Mr. Zhang's sincerity, saying that I would go to the embassy the next day, and that it was also a visit and goodbye. Before I left that day, I went to the handicraft market to buy a new sweater and put it on as a respect for the embassy, ​​but I still wore blue trousers underneath. Misha's shoes fell into the pond by the Lake of Digol when taking pictures, and they were completely wet. In that climate, he had to wear a pair of sandals to the embassy. You and I are not well-dressed enough, I should go in and wait in the square outside in sandals, and I will definitely come out in twenty minutes!I said to Misha.Hearing that there was no need to go in, he wandered away happily. The Bolivian secretary politely invited me into the embassy. I said I came to visit Mr. Zhang Wenxiong. I walked through two large desks, with a slight smile on my face, and followed the secretary into the inner room. Seeing a Chinese woman, I still smiled, kept walking, and nodded to her. oops!Your woman cried out. Come find a Mr. Zhang.I said with a smile. Aren't you Sanmao?What a wait!The woman ran up and grabbed my hand, overjoyed beyond description. I'm your cousin Zihe's old classmate, that Ding Hong who called your aunt and mother! Seeing that she recognized each other so much, I was so happy that I called out to Sister Ding. She stopped him for a while, and couldn't go to Mr. Zhang's office. Come see the ambassador, come in!The lady happens to be there too!Without any explanation, she dragged me into an office. Originally, I also wanted to visit the ambassador, but I just asked Mr. Zhang to introduce me, but I didn't expect that Sister Ding would be dragged into the office just like that. Ambassador, I brought a business card with me in my luggage, but I mumbled. Why didn't we notify you when we came, it's too late for us to rejoice!There is no need for a business card. The ambassador held my hand so kindly. Ms. Liang Yiling, wife of the ambassador, immediately took me to sit down and asked me about my health. At this time, the worker also brought me a cup of coca tea. Sister Ding was the happiest, and immediately went to get a camera and came in, taking pictures here and there. Hearing that I was leaving the next day, Mama Wu, the wife of Ambassador Wu Zuyu, said that I would take out lunch. I was very anxious. Seeing that they were coming to take care of me, it made me very uneasy. I felt that I was causing trouble and wasting other people's precious time. There was another colleague waiting outside.I had to speak out. What's it like?I'll go find it!Sister Ding's frankness is really irresistible. A tall guy in a sweater with sandals.I said. As a result, Misha was also pulled in. In fact, I have seen photos of the ambassador's wife, Mama Wu, in the largest newspaper here. There are two photos in total, which were published during the tea party for the wife of the President of Bolivia and the wives of the heads of state. I bought newspapers on the street. Apart from looking at the people in the photos, I kept looking carefully at the rich dim sum on the table. It was only later that I realized that these Chinese dim sum were made by the ambassador’s wife herself. I have an invitation card here, which was invited by the principal of the military academy here. I will attend their carnival celebration in the afternoon. It is not a very formal occasion. Would you like to attend together?Mama Wu asked Misha and me very politely. Then let's leave first, and come back together after lunch.I said. Of course we went with us for dinner! The elder was so sincere, but he was disrespectful, and he reluctantly accepted it, but he still felt very uneasy. That day was the weekend, the ambassador asked his driver to go back to rest, and drove himself, and took Misha and me back to their home in the residential area. The ambassador's home is located in a high-end residential area, surrounded by a large courtyard full of flowers, plants and fruit trees. The building is European style, not only grand but also has a conservative depth, and the walls are covered with ivy leaves. Seeing the ambassadors representing their own country live in such a beautiful house, I feel so relieved. It would be nice if our overseas institutions should be so beautiful. After all, it does not represent an individual, but the whole country. The garden of this house was completely deserted when we moved in, and it took nearly two years to get it to such a scale.Mother Wu pointed to the thriving area in front of her and said happily. The fountain and the stones used in the driveway were carried back by the ambassador from the snow-capped mountains on weekends. Only then did we realize why our ambassador had a jeep during off-duty hours. My personality is that I love jeeps very much. When I saw that the ambassador also had one, I couldn't help but like him. Come in and see the house.Mama Wu kindly led me into the room. After reporting the arrangement of the tea party, you can see everything in front of you. Mama Wu likes to collect antiques, and the walls are full of silverware used by the residents of the Andes plateau. The ambassador specially gave me books on Bolivian poetry and mythology. He loves books most and has a rich collection. The newspaper here once wrote a long article introducing our Ambassador Wu, titled: An Ambassador Close to Indians. After spending five years in this country, the ambassador and his wife were selected as the godparents of Dariabgo, an ancient Indian village in this place. The love of the people for them is the best symbol of the closeness of the people to China. I am a person who is afraid of being born and is sensitive. If the other party treats me with some reserve and distance, there is no need to stay for a few more minutes. There must be a reason to escape. In the home of the ambassador and his wife, because of the endless treasures, flowers and plants, as well as the Confucian affinity they treat the younger generation, they have been like a spring breeze, and they are reluctant to leave. How about going out in a jeep?大使換下了西裝，一件夾克便下樓了，笑吟吟的問我。 他的手中拿了好大一頂西部牛仔式米色的帽子，上車自自然然的往頭上一戴。 今天嘉年華會！大使笑著說，那份怡然自得的態度，便是他的好風采。 我看這一對大使夫婦，喜愛的不是書籍便是石頭，收集的東西，民俗古物偏重，花園內的果實纍纍，下班開的竟是一輛吉普車。 這位大使先生喜愛大自然，星期天海拔五千多公尺的大雪山一個人爬上去，躺在冰雪中休息，說是靈魂的更新。 說他是高人雅士當然不錯，事實上也是個怪人。 吃本地菜好嗎？吳媽媽問我。 爬上了那輛情趣充足的吉普車，心中十分快樂。 車子在市郊一帶開著，處處好風景。 大使說話淡淡、低沉的調子，冷不防一句幽默滑出來，別人笑，他不笑，沒事似的。 那是一幢被鮮花和果樹包圍著的餐廳，裏面佈置脫俗雅致，一派鄉村風味。 也只有懂得生活情趣的人，才找得到如此的好地方。 那一頓飯吃得熱鬧，其他桌上的人、餐館的工作人員，個個與大使夫婦親密友好，招呼不斷。 看得出那些人不是在應酬，因為他們沒有必要。 這是一位廣受歡迎的大使，便是在小小的地方也看得出來。 他的夫人功不可沒吳媽媽是甜蜜的。 走出餐館時，花徑旁落著一只好大的梨，大使拾了起來，追著前面兩個本地小女孩便喊： 小女孩，妳的梨掉啦！回來拿吧！ 那個大眼睛的孩子回過頭來，果然抱了滿懷的梨子。 送給你囉她甜甜的望著大使一笑，轉身又走了。 送給我可以，也讓我謝謝妳一個親吻吧！大使回答她。 小傢伙仰起了頭，大使彎下了腰。 那只梨，他恭恭敬敬的謝了孩子，帶上車來。 這份親子的赤子之心，被我悄的看了下來，藏在心裏。 一個對小孩子也付出尊敬的人，我又如何能不敬他？ 有沒有去過月谷？大使問著。 還沒有，因為距離近，計畫是今天下午坐公共汽車去的。I said. 那麼現在就開你們去吧！吳媽媽說。 嘉年華會呢？I asked. 再晚些去也可以，他們開始得晚！ 我實是怕累了長輩，心中不安得很，不能去風景區打一個轉就走，好給他們週末安靜休息，可是以後尚有嘉年華會在等著呢！ 一路上大使風趣不斷，迷人的談吐卻偏是一副淡然的樣子，與吳媽媽的另一份活潑，恰好是一個對比。 美麗的月谷拍完照片，又去了高爾夫球場。 這是世界最高的球場，拍一張照片吧！大使說。 在這兒打球，阻力也是少的。 聽見大使這麼說，我笑了起來，好多天在這片高原上，事實已不太喘，常常忘了自己的位置。 那輛瀟瀟灑灑的小吉普車，終於開到軍校裏去，校長為了這個嘉年華會，特別在請帖之外又附了一封信給大使，非來不可的。 那時候，我悄悄的看大使，怕他覺得累，已經是下午五點半鐘了。 進入禮堂內，主人當然在，另有此地的內政部長、省長、市長、將軍和一大群帶了眷屬的人，氣氛很輕鬆，衣著也隨便，因是嘉年華會。 吳媽媽十二分的活躍而有人緣，馬上被省長拉了去跳舞，她的步伐輕、身體靈活，是全場視線的中心。 大使在此朋友多，看得出過去五年來在國民外交上所付出的努力。 雖然我知大使夫婦陪著我們一下午，實在也累了，可是場中兩人的好風采一樣怡然，那些玻利維亞的友人又是多麼的愛他們。 做這種工作太辛苦了，平日國家大事已經夠重了，週末不能在家休息，還得來這兒聯絡感情，唉我望著場中跳舞的吳媽媽嘆了口氣。 當然這句話是用中文跟米夏說的，旁邊坐著的內政部長聽不懂。 他們合適，不看大家如何的歡迎妳的大使夫婦米夏笑著說。 這時拉巴斯的市長走了過來，我放下米夏的談話，與市長說起他的城市來，將這份欣賞不保留的傾訴給他。 市長聽了我的談話，一再問我何時離去，我說次日便要走了。 不知他回去卻給我安排了電台的訪問。 夜來了，大使帶著我們想離去，吳媽媽卻被主人硬留下來，不肯我們沒有吃晚飯便走。 那是一頓豐盛的玻利維亞菜和美酒。四周的人，對我親切自然，一家人似的沒有距離。 離去時夜已深了，我們走過深藍天空下的軍校操場，眼看別離又臨，對於這一對長者更加付出了一份親密，那時涼涼的青草地上已經沾滿了夜露。 一日與大使夫婦的相處，學到的東西並不能訴諸筆墨，那是一種無形的感化和薰染，是一個人的風度言談裏自然流露出來的學問，親近這股汨汨的氣質，是不可能空手而回的。 次日早晨又與吳媽媽打了電話才上街去，回來時兩本忘在吉普車上的書籍放在旅舍櫃台上，必是大使來過了。 接受了電台的訪問之後已是午後，匆匆跑去使館，再見丁虹姐姐一面。 丁姐姐一個人在玻利維亞，想來亦是寂寞，可是她是那種懂得安排生活的人，並不太需要別人多餘的掛心。 丁姐姐堅持要帶米夏與我去吃最後一頓飯，又找了一個十三歲的中國小朋友作陪。 不跟妳客氣，要去中國飯店內吃豆腐。I said. 丁姐姐只要我肯吃，哪有不答應的，飯店內叫了一大堆菜，也算是份難忘的回憶吧！ 夜間的拉巴斯是那麼的寧靜平和，在那多樹的街道上談話，散步，呼吸著完全沒有污染的空氣，走過一幢一幢透著燈火的小樓，我禁不住為自己的離去，留下了深深的悵然。 第二日早晨離去之前，與張文雄先生通了電話：張先生，不與你說再見是不能走的，再見了，謝謝一切！希望很快再見！ 旅館看櫃台的男孩子追了出來，喊了一聲：快回來，一定要快回來！便呆住了，好似要哭似的。 玻利維亞，我深愛的國家，在這兒，我得了自己同胞的情分，也得了你們珍貴的友誼，但願再回來，重溫一次如此的溫馨和愛。 我的小讀者們，玻利維亞的時光太匆忙，你們要求的座談會來不及安排，亦是使我難過。 中國的好孩子，雖然身在異國，但是中文永遠不要放下，這份美麗的文化，將是終身的享受和珍寶。天涯海角，我們彼此鼓勵紀念吧！