Chapter 5 Chapter 3 Hungry Wolf

1 The British Empire, the United Kingdom, sent its first expedition in 1921 in order to set foot on the summit of Notre Dame. The captain is Howard.Colonel Barry. A group of people first entered Tibet from India and tried to climb to the top from Tibet. At that time, they reached the North Ridge at a height of 7,900 meters. The first group of members also included the thirty-five-year-old George.thunder.mallory. The first expedition did not reach the summit.The second British expedition was sent in the following year, 1922. The captain at this time was Charles.Granville.Bruce. Charles.Granville.Bruce can be said to be the hero of the British Empire era.He is a big figure that Britain will definitely mention when describing the history of exploration in India and Central Asia.At that time, we also camped at the end of the Rongbuk Glacier on the Tibet side.The altitude is about 5,400 meters.Oxygen here is only half of the level.

Thirty-six-year-old Mallory was also on the expedition. The team reached the summit for the first time and reached a height of 8,225 meters, and the second summit reached 8,326 meters.This is of course the height of human experience for the first time. However, the expedition failed to reach the summit and the team returned to the UK. The third time the British sent Everest expedition to this land was in 1924. However, this expedition also failed.Mallory and Irving, who were going to attack the summit, were gone forever. As a result, after 29 years, it was not until 1953 that someone finally set foot on the summit of Mount Everest.

British team members Hilary from New Zealand and Tenzing from Sherpa set foot on the summit of the highest mountain in the world. In the process, although there was a period of political emptiness, speaking, this feat of reaching the top is the result of 32 years of hard work. However Therein lies a puzzle. Maybe in June of 1924, Mallory and Irving put their feet on the summit of Notre Dame. There is a reason for this. Finally, when I confirmed the figures of the two people in action with the naked eye, they were almost directly below the peak. It is true that Mallory and Irving set off to attack the summit and never came back after encountering some kind of accident, but when did that accident happen?

Is it before the summit? Or after reaching the summit? However, that is a mystery that no one can know. However, there is only one way left to solve the puzzle. 2 Norton and Somerwell's first attack on the top team was exhausted and returned without success on June 4th. On June 4th, the members of the second summit team were selected.One of the two slots has been decided on Mallory.The other was chosen from the team by Mallory himself. Mallory chose Irving. Andrew.Irving was twenty-two at the time.Compared with other outstanding players headed by Mallory, although Irwin's experience is slightly inferior, in 1923, the year before this expedition, he was selected as a member of the East Spitsbergen Expedition Team of Oxford University. team members.The Spitsbergen archipelago has peaks and glaciers in its interior and is an archipelago connected to the Arctic Sea.There, Irving crossed the glacier on skis and stepped on several peaks. Among them, some mountains were even named Irving.His qualities as an explorer were impeccable, both physically and mentally.

In addition, Irving is good at operating equipment such as oxygen respirators, and this is the main reason why Mallory chose Irving as his partner. At the start of the expedition, Mallory had reservations about using oxygen.But for this summit attempt, he decided to use oxygen. The use of oxygen when climbing the Himalayas is common knowledge these days.But at the time, there were still many dubious opinions about the use of oxygen. One is how effective is oxygen?Indeed, in high mountains with low oxygen content, if there is oxygen supply, it will be easier to move, which is reasonable in terms of knowledge.

However, some people think that if you are fully acclimatized, do you not need to use oxygen? The limit of altitude that humans can adapt to is about 6,500 meters.Once higher than this altitude, no matter how much you can adapt to the altitude, you will get altitude sickness.Just lying still quietly will gradually accumulate fatigue, and sooner or later you will die. However, if you can acclimatize well, you will not die immediately.Even at an altitude of more than 8,000 meters, it is possible to move without oxygen for a period of time.Therefore, the people of the anaerobic school think: as long as you don’t rely on oxygen to climb to the top of the peak and then turn back during that period of time, it’s fine.

At present, the aluminum alloy oxygen cylinder made by the French company Gerzat has reduced the weight from 4 liters to 5.7 kilograms, and can pack about 920 liters of oxygen into a gas cylinder at 230 pressure.However, in 1924, a gas cylinder weighed almost fourteen kilograms. Also, the oxygen capacity of a gas cylinder is far less than it is today.At 120 air pressure, only 535 liters of oxygen can be loaded. So Mallory and Irwin each carried two oxygen tanks when they set out from the Fourth Battalion.Coupled with general mountaineering equipment, these extra weights will become a great burden on the shoulders of climbers when climbing the Himalayas.

By the way, the oxygen breathing system at that time was extremely prone to failure, and it often had to be repaired whether it was moving in groups or at high altitudes.There are not a few cases where the specially brought system cannot be used.Therefore, the opponent argues, even if the system is working smoothly, the energy expended by carrying the extra weight will probably cancel out the energy provided by the oxygen. Mallory also stood in the position of not supporting the use of oxygen. During the second expedition to Mount Everest in 1922, Mallory wrote a letter to David.Pie, the content is as follows:

□□□ The chances of climbing that mountain are very slim However, I find it really unpleasant to go to Everest like this again when there are other worthwhile things in life.What's more, the thought of climbing a mountain with four oxygen tanks on your back and a mask on your face Oops, the thing loses all its charm. Also, very British thinking, does not allow the use of oxygen when climbing the Himalayas. Because using oxygen to set foot on Everest is cheating. However, this kind of thinking, in the minds of mountaineers who tolerate the use of oxygen, is interpreted as: Even if it's cheating, if you don't use the oxygen breathing system, you can't reach the summit of Mount Everest, so you should use oxygen.

The Utilization school argues that the use of oxygen should be acceptable as a necessary evil. However Basically, why did Mallory, who was hesitant to use oxygen, change his mind? There are two possible reasons. One is Captain Bruce's heart pain caused by the thin air. Bruce and Mallory, working together, devoted themselves to setting up the Fifth Battalion from June 1st.Bruce's heart was weakened by the exhausting work without oxygen, so Bruce and Mallory descended from the Fifth Battalion. Another reason is that Norton and Somerwell, who were on the top team for the first time, also retreated because they did not use oxygen.

It is probably because of these two reasons that Mallory made up his mind to use oxygen. At 8:40 am on June 6th, Mallory and Irving each carried two oxygen tanks and set off from the Fourth Battalion. Both of them ate only a little of the breakfast that O'Dell and the others cooked. Mallory and Irving entered the Fifth Battalion that day. □□□ The Fifth Battalion was windless and expected to move on. This letter was sent to the Fourth Battalion by the porter. On June 7, O'Dell entered the Fifth Battalion, and Mallory and Irwin entered the Sixth Battalion, the final camp. From there onwards, there are no longer any camps. So from the 6th Battalion we had to go up to the summit and back there.This has to be done in one day. Back then, it was not like there are down jackets for alpine use now.All of them are wearing different costumes. Camping at an altitude of more than 8,000 meters meant death in terms of clothing at the time. There is a photo. It was taken at base camp during this expedition in 1924.In the photo are Mallory, Irwin, Norton, O'Dell, Somerwell, Bruce and other nine team members. They wear various clothes: some wear old tweed check tops, and some only wear wool around their coats. scarf. By the way, for the first Mount Everest expedition, the equipment of the members is roughly as follows: A well-worn tweed check top. Great coat. Wool scarves. sweater. Woven socks. Alpine hiking boots. Unlike today, there are lightweight cold-proof clothing and supplies. Howard, the captain of this first expedition.Colonel Barry, in a lozenge jacket, top check duffel shorts, and cashmere leggings, joined the expedition. Mallory's outfit for the last time he set off for the summit was a riding suit and scarf.Looking at the photos of him leaving the 4th Battalion, he should be wearing leggings and hiking boots. If you wear this kind of light clothing today, you may not even be able to climb the mountains in winter in Japan. June 8th. O'Dell started from the fifth battalion and walked towards the sixth battalion. Mallory and Irwin should have left the Sixth Battalion, depending on the situation, maybe climbing Everest's final cone, O'Dell thought. The clouds covered the top, and O'Dell climbed the rocky eaves of the Himalayas alone.On the way, O'Dell picked up a fossil that should be the first to be seen on Mount Everest.Not long after, O'Dell saw a historic scene. When O'Dell climbed a hundred feet or so of rock and stood on it, part of the cloud suddenly parted, revealing the summit of Notre Dame and the ledge connecting it. O'Dell spotted two figures on a part of the eaves called the second step. They are Mallory and Irving. The leading figure moved across the snowy slope and reached the rocky steps above.Another figure moved afterward, and joined the leading figure at the rock steps. O'Dell saw this so far. Because the clouds flowed again, covering the summit and eaves of Mount Everest. That was the last time Mallory and Irving were seen. Mallory and Irving set their sights on the summit of Everest, never to return. However If the two started from the Sixth Battalion according to the scheduled itinerary, the figures of the two should be at a higher place. Mallory sent two letters to Knoll and O'Dell through porters from the Sixth Battalion. The letter to Knoll mentioned that Mallory set out early in the morning and wrote that he would cross the rock belt under the summit cone or the skyline of the ridge by 8 am at the latest. The height of the sixth battalion is 8,156 meters.The first step is 8,500 meters.The height of the second step where the two figures are seen is 8,600 meters. Leaving aside the horizontal distance, if the vertical distance is calculated, the two climbed 444 meters at that time.There are still more than 200 meters left from the peak. It was 12:50 at that time, assuming that the two of them set off around 6:00 am according to the scheduled itinerary, it would have been 6 hours and 50 minutes. It took more than six hours and only climbed 444 meters high. Even at an altitude of more than 8,000 meters, if the two people's previous footsteps, weather and mountain terrain were taken into consideration, they would not be able to climb. Possibly that slow. Did any accident happen on the way?There is a problem with the breathing system connected to the oxygen tank. Are you spending time fixing it? Encountered a difficult rock field, wasted time there? These are the only situations I can think of. Only one thing is certain.That is The two men set their sights on the highest mountain in the world that no one has ever climbed before, and they are gone forever. The two disappeared without a trace at an altitude of 8,600 meters, the place closest to the sky in the world, and cut off all communication with the world. 3 The clues about the news of the two were discovered in 1933. This year, the British Empire formed the fourth Mount Everest expedition, challenging the world's highest peak four times. Nine years have passed since the last expedition where Mallory and Irwin never returned. The sixth battalion was also the final camp area, which was set up at a height of 8,350 meters. This expedition also ended in failure, but on May 30, Harris and Wagner, who set off for the first summit attack, advanced for about an hour after setting off from the sixth battalion. Near the 8th and 380th meters of the steps, an ice stick was found. The ice stick was on the rock face on the way to the first step. It was thought at the time that it might have been either Mallory's or Irving's ice stick, but it was later determined to be Irving's. This ice stick poses a puzzle. Irwin lost the ice stick, was he on the way up or down the mountain? Seeing the figures of the two on the second step, if O'Dell's testimony is true, it is natural to think that Irwin lost it when he went down the mountain.Because, if you lose your ice stick during the climb, you probably won't move on.The second step is closer to the summit than where the ice stick was dropped.It was because they didn't throw away the ice stick that the two were able to get there. They may have encountered some kind of accident here. The accident probably happened on the way down the mountain.And it was an accident that he couldn't pick up that ice stick later.An accident that endangered the lives of the victims occurred there while descending the mountain.What's more, the body is not there, which means that the body of the victim fell from there. Mallory or Irwin probably slipped on the way down the hill.At this time, the two were probably tied to each other with climbing ropes. If there is a climbing rope, when Mallory or Irwin slips here, it will drag the other person, and the two will fall from here together. If it is at a lower place, one party should be able to use the climbing rope to support the partner who fell first, but when an accident occurs at this height, it is really impossible to take the correct response in an instant. Anyway, the accident happened there, and the ice stick stayed there. The question is, did an accident happen here and was it just Irving or Mallory who died?Or did both die together? Today, this answer does not exist in this world. In short, most people would naturally think that Mallory and Irving died together because of the accident on the way down the mountain. However, that didn't solve another, bigger mystery either.That is: Did Mallory and Irving ever reach the summit of Everest? At that time, did they conquer the highest peak in the world? The two started to descend the mountain, after reaching the peak?Or before setting foot on the summit? I found that the ice stick also failed to answer this question. The researcher on this issue is American Tom.In "The Mystery of Mallory and Irvine," Holtz unfolds complex inferences. Tom.Holtz mentioned that Mallory and Irwin may go their separate ways after climbing the second step. The two were wasting time and running out of oxygen before climbing the second step.So Irwin gave up his oxygen to Mallory, and Mallory made her way to the summit alone. Mallory climbed towards the summit, while Irwin descended from there to the Sixth Battalion.Irwin may have slipped and slipped when going down the first step while acting alone, leaving his ice stick there. On the other hand, Mallory made it to the top of the peak by himself, but slipped down due to an accident on the way back down the mountain, or did not return to the sixth camp before dark, and was forced to camp behind a certain rock. freeze to death Tom.Holtz reasoned this way, however, this statement relies too much on the imagination.Especially the big thing about whether Mallory made it to the summit was only so far as possible. The fact that a mountaineer reaches the point where the vertical distance from the peak is nearly two hundred meters does not make the mountaineer's imagination of setting foot on the peak come true. No matter how easy the journey from there to the summit was, it was impossible for the mountaineer. result Britain sent the fifth, sixth, and seventh expeditions. From 1921 to 1938, the British continued to send expeditions to Mount Everest for seventeen years, but they failed again and again. . Officially set foot on the summit of Mount Everest in 1953 after the Second World War. Since the first expedition in 1921, on May 29, 32 years later, Hilary and Tenzing of the British team finally stepped on the summit of Mount Everest. However, the puzzle remains unsolved. Many believe: Mallory and Irving reached the summit of Notre Dame in 1924.O'Dell, who finally witnessed the two people, also thought so. Did they reach the summit at that time? Actually, there is a way to answer this question. When he reached the summit in 1924, Mallory borrowed a Kodak folding camera from team member Somerwell. BEST POCKET AUTOGRAPHIC KODAK SPECIAL. This Kodak camera, using 120mm film, was the latest model to be released in 1924 when they started their expedition. One thing can definitely be said here. If Mallory had been on the summit of Everest, he would have taken pictures with this camera.There is no doubt about it. No matter where Mallory's body is on Mount Everest, the Kodak camera is in the backpack carried by the dead body.Moreover, the negatives loaded in that camera can now be developed. For Tom.Holtz's question, manufacturer Kodak's answer: Even after fifty years, negatives can still be processed. Minus 30 degrees to minus 60 degrees In terms of storage places for negatives, there are few places on earth that are as suitable as the snow on Mount Everest. In other words, there was no way to know if Mallory had reached the summit of Everest except to find Mallory's body.Mallory's body was found, the camera was removed from his backpack, and the negatives in the camera were developed If one of Mallory or Irving had been photographed standing on the summit in that roll of negatives, it would have completely rewritten the history of climbing the Himalayas. Regarding the biggest mystery in the history of Himalaya mountaineering, another event that shocked the world happened on October 11, 1979. On May 3, 1980, Yasuo Kato of the Japanese Mountaineering Club climbed Mount Everest from Tibet. Note ①: Yasuo Kato (1949︱1982), climbed to the summit along the traditional route along the southeast ridge via the South Col in 1973, and was the first person in the climbing history of Everest to reach the summit in autumn. He reached the summit at 8:55 p.m. following almost the same route that Mallory and the others had taken in 1924. Yasuo Kato stayed on the peak for ten minutes and began to descend at 9:50.The sun had already set, and Yasuo Kato was forced to camp on the way. He camped at the pole at more than 8,600 meters. Fifty-six years ago, Mallory might have camped in the same spot.Yasuo Kato survived that death camp. During this expedition, Takashi Ozaki's team also completed the world's first ascent from the north wall of Mount Everest. Before this expedition, Japan sent a Mount Everest reconnaissance team there a year ago (1979). At that time, team member Yoshinori Hasegawa learned from Chinese team member Wang Hongbao that the bodies of Westerners were found at a distance of 8,100 meters. October 11, 1979 Yoshinori Hasegawa's Northeast Ridge defended the East Rongbuk Glacier, trying to set up the third battalion at 6,500 meters.When that work came to an end, Wang Hongbao told Hasegawa about it. The relevant content was recorded in detail in the "Yomiuri Shimbun" on January 1, 1980, and "Standing on Mount Everest" published by the Yomiuri Shimbun on June 25 of the same year. □□□ is that true It must be true. The two did not communicate through an interpreter, but had a conversation in fragmented Chinese, but Hasegawa intuitively understood what Wang Hongbao meant. The two squatted there, using ice sticks to write on the hard snow surface, and had a written conversation. Are they really Westerners? Wang Hongbao wrote on the snow with the tip of his ice stick: British, 8100. Then, impatiently, he wrote down a few Chinese characters, and then continued: Western looks.When climbing the mountain in 1975.The man sleeps behind a rock.Large rock shed.As soon as I pulled his clothes it shattered.When I pinched it and blew it, the pieces of clothes flew away.He looked so cold, so I piled snow on him and buried him. Amazing content. Wang Hongbao was the first summit climber of the Chinese Mount Everest climbing team in 1975.However, the ascent to the summit ended in failure Facing Hasegawa, he spoke English several times with his unintelligible pronunciation.He seemed convinced that only the British would die at such heights. When he found traces of the British team camping near the first battalion (5,500 meters), Wang Hongbao also spoke English while pointing his fingers.He knows almost no English at all.However, he definitely knew that English meant British people. "Standing on Mount Everest", Yomiuri Shimbun Is that supposed to be Mallory or Irving? It is said that Hasegawa thought so when he heard about it. If it had been the Englishman's body at that height, there could have been no one else but Mallory or Irving. At that time, the partner asked Wang Hongbao for something and interrupted the conversation. but Why didn't the Chinese side announce that fact before that? Speaking of 1975, it was the period of the Cultural Revolution. □□□ Mountain climbing is also an act of respecting and loving Chairman Mao and promoting the country's prestige.At that time, overseas ideas, concepts, no, even foreigners themselves, were completely targeted and rejected. It was a time of xenophobia.Therefore, the Chinese may even consider it an unforgivable blasphemy to store the corpse of a foreigner on the height of Mount Everest, China's sacred highest mountain, Mother Earth. It is mentioned in "Standing on Mount Everest" that Hasegawa Yoshinori thinks so. Hasegawa intends to further ask Wang Hongbao for details and determine the location.However, Wang Hongbao died before the details were asked. The next day, October 12 Six team members, including Hasegawa and Wang Hongbao, left the third battalion to climb the ice wall connecting the North Ridge in order to develop a climbing route. While moving down a slope with a huge ice crevasse below, an avalanche suddenly occurred above the six people's heads. The snow and ice over fifty meters wide turned into a torrent, attacking the six people.Including Hasegawa and Wang Hongbao, four people were swallowed by the avalanche.The four of them were rushed towards the crevasse together with the ice cubes. Hasegawa miraculously stopped at the edge of the ice crevasse, but the other three fell into the ice crevasse together with the avalanche. The two team members who survived rescued Hasegawa and searched for the other three, but the huge ice crevasse was buried by ice and snow, and it was impossible to dig out the bodies. In this way, the important testimony about Mallory and Irving, along with Wang Hongbao's body, sank forever at the bottom of the glacier. But was that body really Mallory or Irwin? □□□ So apart from these two people, are there any Westerners who have reached the height of Mount Everest at 8,000 meters and their whereabouts are unknown? Only the British team attacked the summit from the north seven times (1921︱1938), the Soviet team in 1952, and the Sino-Soviet joint team in 1958.In addition, there are illegal solo operations, but these people have not even reached the North Ridge. The Soviet team and the Sino-Soviet joint team failed completely.Due to national character (?), China and the Soviet Union did not make any official reports on such failures, so it is impossible to confirm.However, there is information that several members of the Soviet team disappeared at 8,200 meters.However, the Chinese mountaineer who joined the reconnaissance team last fall categorically denied this information. Neither the Soviet team nor the Sino-Soviet joint team reached 6,800 meters, and they failed completely.Therefore, the remains cannot be Soviet.The Chinese mountaineer made a clear conclusion. In this way, there is only one conclusion, the body that Wang Hongbao saw was either Mallory or Irving. "Standing on Mount Everest", Yomiuri Shimbun Even if the body was very likely to be Mallory or Irwin, it would be next to impossible to find that body on the vast slopes of Everest. In 1986, Tom.Holz personally went to Mount Everest to search for the remains of the two, but the weather was bad and nothing new was found. 4 Fukamachi sighed in the cramped business hotel room. He lay on his back on the bed. Breathless room.After laying out the bed, there was only barely room for walking on the side.There was a small TV on the pitifully small low table, but it couldn't broadcast a clear picture.The TV almost took up the entire surface of the low table. In the slightly vacant space, there are telephones and hotel guidebooks, and there is no room for other things. It's been a week since I came back from Nepal. I've only met Kayoko twice. Go to Jinggang and Funaoshima's house to offer incense and meet Kudo. Although I have contacted with other team members by phone, except for Kudo, I have not met anyone else. Today, I will hand over the developed negatives to Miyagawa of Yueyou Agency.It was a photo taken by Fukamachi during this expedition. The book could not be published due to the failure of the expedition, but several negatives had to be handed over to Miyagawa for use in the magazine. During the three days of staying in this hotel, Fukamachi spent most of the time lying on the bed and reading. All about Everest or Mallory. Shenmachi also took Tom.The Japanese edition of Holtz's work was reread and photocopied of the report on Mallory that appeared in the mountain magazine included in Oyake Bunko.Earlier, Fukamachi had just finished reading all these materials. If you need further information, you must go to the information room of the Yueyou Agency, or contact the Mountain Club in London. Now, the snow-covered white peak of Mount Everest floated in Fukamachi's mind. He had dreamed several times.It was a scene he was very familiar with. From the area around the 4th Battalion on the north ridge, we can see the cone of Mount Everest.The northeast ridge can be seen on the left. After the first step and the second step, there is a ridge line connected to the unique place on the earth. Fukamachi knows. I've seen that scene several times in photos.However, Everest has never been seen from this angle, it can only be seen from the Tibetan side.Fukamachi saw Mount Everest from Khumbu, that is, from the side of Nepal. So why does this image come to mind? This phenomenon has appeared since I stayed in this hotel and started reading books about Mallory. That 80% is Mount Everest that O'Dell looked up. However, what O'Dell saw was Mount Everest in the daytime, but the image that came to Fukamachi's mind was Mount Everest at night. Countless stars shone in the velvet-black night sky. Every star twinkled blindingly, but the light had no warmth nor color, just cold, lifeless light. The starry sky is dizzying, as if the universe is in it. The summit of Everest pierces that starry sky. That mountaintop seemed to belong to the sky. It looks like Everest rests its summit among the stars. All is silent, and the thrilling cosmic silence descends on the ground. In that silence, a man walked on the edge of the snow.What I saw from Fukamachi's perspective was his back. The man's back dragged heavy steps, just walking silently. Is he Mallory?Irving?Or someone else? Fukamachi didn't know.All he knew was that he was watching the scene without moving. Fukamachi stared at the back of the man who climbed to the top of Mount Everest alone with a depressed mood. Because I was abandoned by that man. The man left, and he stayed there. don't leave me Fukamachi tried to step forward, but his feet didn't budge. From Fukamachi's point of view, rather than saying that the man wanted to climb to the top of the mountain, it was better to say that he wanted to return to the starry sky. Fukamachi woke up before finding out if the man had reached the top of the mountain. After waking up, Fukamachi still couldn't figure out why he had that dream. It must be, he thought, because the Mallory thing had taken over his head. A few words that Mallory said or wrote stayed in the corner of my mind. Fukamachi lay on his back on the bed, trying to remember those words. Because the mountains are there. Fukamachi remembered such a sentence. He had heard this sentence since he was more than ten years old, but it was only later that he realized that it was a man named George.Mallory, the man who disappeared on Everest. This sentence appeared in the New York Times on Sunday, March 18, 1923. Mallory has already made two expeditions to Everest and is one of the best-known climbers in the field. During his speaking tour, Mallory stopped briefly in New York and was interviewed by a newspaper. In the process, the reporter asked the following questions: Why do you want to climb Mount Everest? To that question, Mallory replied: Because it's there. It refers to the highest mountain in the world, the summit of Everest in a unique place in the world. This sentence became because the mountain is there and it is remembered by the world. □□□ A beautiful day in the Alps is like a beautiful symphony. This is a line from Mallory's collection of essays "Climbers Can Be Artists" written in 1914 at the age of twenty-eight. The artist with a hidden passion fit Mallory better than the rugged mountaineer. Mallory's eyes were languid, and there was a peculiar air of solitude around him. To be a friend Duncan.Grant's nude painting model, he also showed himself nude in front of friends. There was even a gay quality about Mallory. Leaving aside Mallory herself, the famous social satirist Benson does have a same-sex crush on Mallory. □□□ Mallory is a feel-good guy.He is the most outspoken and pure of heart man I know.What's more, his appearance is very handsome, and his figure is fine and slender. It is very pleasing to the eye just to see his gestures. Benson mentioned this in his diary. Or it should be said that Fukamachi, the spirit of western mountaineers, has felt from the past that British mountaineering cannot get rid of the connotation of conquering nature.Regardless of what level the sentiment touched, there was nothing strongly British in Mallory's way of climbing. From Mallory's climbing method, one can feel a kind of oriental beauty.From Mallory, it can even be seen that he sees mountaineering as a way to become one with nature. In the summer of 1901, Mallory, Owen, who taught him mountaineering, and Tindle, a mountain friend, went to climb Magic Mountain together. Regarding the events at that time, Mallory submitted the following article to the "Mountain Journal". □□□ Is this the most memorable peak of the day?How calm we are!We're not getting carried away with joy.But still feel the joy, and at the same time, the heart is awed Have we conquered the enemy?No, it is not the enemy that conquers, but ourselves.Have we made it?Here, that kind of talk doesn't make sense.Have we captured the city yet?It's not like that, but, maybe it's true In Fukamachi's opinion, there is of course a European style behind this article, but it is obviously mixed with oriental thinking. However, it must not be forgotten that from the late 1800s to the early 1900s, Britain, or should be said to be dominated by Europe, was the trend of the times that swept the world. In the world at that time, powers such as Europe, the United States, Russia, and Japan were trying to fill in the blank parts of the earth's surface on the map and draw the world on land. Europe sent Sven.Hedin②, Stein③, and Japan sent the Otani Expedition Team④ to explore the blank areas on the map of Central Asia.In addition, Russia, Britain, Germany, the United States, the Qing Dynasty, and Japan competed with each other. To a certain extent, Central Asia, including Tibet, can be said to have become the central axis of global attention. Note ②: Sven.Sven Anders Hedin (Sven Anders Hedin, 1865.2.19︱1952.11.26), a famous Swedish explorer, started his first trip to Asia in the summer of 1885 because he was employed as a tutor to the Nobel family. Central Asia, Xinjiang, Tibet, Tarim and other places, among which the most attention of the world is: the discovery of the ancient city of Loulan, and the redefinition of the location of Lop Nur. Note ③: Marc Aurel Stein (Marc Aurel Stein, 1862︱1943), a British archaeologist.From 1900 to 1931, within thirty years, Stein conducted four expeditions in Northwest China (mainly Xinjiang and Gansu).The results of each expedition included a large number of cultural relics and manuscripts in various languages.The most famous is that he arrived in Dunhuang during his second expedition (1906︱1908), and obtained thousands of documents from the scripture cave of Mogao Grottoes. Note ④: Otani Mitsuzui (1876︱1948), the second-generation master of Nishi Honganji Temple in Japan, has sent expeditions to Central Asia three times.The results of the three expeditions of Otani's expedition were compiled into books such as "Archaeological Atlas of the Western Regions" and "New Records of the Western Regions". During the period from the first challenge to Mount Everest to the summit, the world has experienced two major wars. It cannot be ignored that when Mallory climbed to the top of the world, there was such an atmosphere of the times behind it. The mountain clubs and Mallory in England were arguably in the mood of the times. Which country will be the first to reach the top of the world? Fukamachi believes that this competition changed from Hillary ⑤ and Tenzing 6 after they set foot on the summit of Mount Everest in 1953 to a competition between the two major powers, the United States and the Soviet Union, to see who would send humans to the moon first. Note ⑤: Edmund.Hillary (Edmund Percival Hillary, 1919.7.︱2008.1.11), born in Auckland, New Zealand, successfully climbed Mount Everest in 1953, and was knighted by the Queen of England. Note ⑥: Tenzin, from Sherpa, is Edmund.Hillary's guide on the Everest climb. Fukamachi understood that the Apollo program was actually a massive mountaineering. The Moon is the last remaining tallest mountain on Earth. Set up the base camp in Houston, let the spaceship that serves as the first battalion fly into space from there, follow the orbit of the moon, use it as the second battalion, let the final camp land on the surface of the moon, and then let people Footsteps set foot on the moon. Due to the thin air, astronauts will put on space suits, carry oxygen tanks, and land on the surface of the moon, just like climbing the Himalayas to prepare oxygen and masks. 登陸月球是一種和爬喜瑪拉雅山的流程最類似的行為。 深町的思緒變得漫無邊際。 空調刺耳的聲音響徹房內。 宮川應該差不多要來了。 就在深町那麼想時 枕邊的電話響起。 深町仰躺著接起話筒。 喂，是我啦。耳邊傳來宮川的聲音。 宮川經常和深町一起工作。他是岳遊社的編輯，擔任《地平線會議》這本戶外雜誌的副總編輯。 我現在在樓下的茶館。你能馬上下來嗎？ 我這就過去。 說完，深町放下話筒，站了起來。 5 對了，關於羽生丈二的事把深町準備的照片看完一輪之後，宮川說道。 宮川小心地把看完的照片收進自己的皮包，又點了一杯咖啡。在咖啡送來之前，宮川說出了羽生丈二的名字。 知道什麼了嗎？ 不，那倒是不曉得。我試著和幾個可能知道羽生近況的人聯絡，但好像沒人知道他現在在做什麼。 Why? do not know.他原本就是個有點特立獨行的人。很少人會在意那傢伙現在在做什麼 Right Hey Hey hey.我說你啊，你真的在找羽生的下落嗎？是的話，還用不著放棄。畢竟，我只問了幾個人羽生在做什麼，還沒有不厭其煩地四處打聽。 宮川邊說，邊從皮包中拿出新的信封。 這是答應幫你找的羽生的照片。宮川將拿出來的信封放在桌上。 在大喬拉斯峰發生意外時的照片，和遠征聖母峰時的照片。這是我們家雜誌刊登過的照片影本，這種就可以了嗎？ Thanks.感激不盡。 深町伸手拿信封，從中抽出兩張影印紙。 不過話說回來，你為什麼要調查羽生的事？ 哎呀，沒什麼大不了的。 深町說著，把拿出來的兩張影印紙放在桌上。 他幾乎是心不在焉地聽著宮川說話。 因為兩張影印紙上的照片，奪走了他的注意力。 第一張照片中，是一名頭上纏著繃帶，左手臂也以繃帶吊在肩上的青年。 年紀約莫三十五、六歲吧。他瞪著相機鏡頭的凶狠目光，和在加德滿都遇見的那個男人的眼神類似。 第二張照片是羽生丈二四十多歲的臉。 目光的凶狠程度比起三十多歲時有過之而無不及。眼神中顯然帶著不滿和憤怒。 看起來像是掩不住自己內心的濃厚情感，而將這份情感放進瞪著相機的視線中。 臉頰覆蓋著鬍子。 那張照片中的臉肯定是四十多歲男人的表情，但表情卻帶著點十四、五歲少年的稚氣。 單槍匹馬地把自己身邊的所有事物都視為敵人，有時候甚至把自己都視為敵人奮戰的那種少年 那個表情中具備了那種少年特有的、說不上是成熟或稚氣的剽悍。 照片裡中年男子內心裡的少年，對著相機說： 我不相信任何人。相對地，誰也不必相信我。我自己一個人 在自己心中如此下定決心的少年，棲息在那張照片裡的男人心中。 那張照片甚至令人感到一陣心痛。 因為是影印自印刷的照片，所以黑白對比強烈，反而使得那照片裡的男人深藏在心中的祕密，看起來變得鮮明。 是這個男人 深町如此心想。 在加德滿都遇見的那個日本人 那個男人和照片裡的這個男人是同一個人。 如果如同在加德滿都所想，那個男人正是羽生丈二。