Chapter 6 Chapter 4 Bingfang

1 Before I knew it, the coffee went cold. I drank two or three sips, but it was really not very tasty.Fukamachi stared at the undrinkable coffee, waiting for Koichiro Ito. Fukamachi got in touch with Ito Koichiro through Kudo Eiji's introduction. On this day, he and Ito made an appointment to meet in this coffee shop. This man was the president of the mountaineering club that Joji Hanyu once belonged to. Hanyu Joji Born in Sendai City, Miyagi Prefecture. January 10, 1944 was his birthday. In 1993, he should have been forty-nine years old. When he was six years old, his parents and younger sister died in a car accident. Hanyu was raised by his uncle in Chiba Prefecture, and lived in his uncle's house until he graduated from junior high school.

The car accident at that time caused Hanyu to suffer a complex fracture of his left thigh, which left a slight sequelae.Now when I walk, I drag my left foot slightly. Including vivid rumors, Fukamachi himself had heard a lot about the man Joji Hanyu. Mountaineering genius. Hanyu Joji must have been called this for a period of time, but in Japanese mountaineering circles, he is better known as the God of Plague of Ichinokura. Although he is well-known, it was before the 1985 expedition to Mount Everest. Later, Joji Hanyu's name was hardly heard in the mountaineering world.From about that year onwards, no one knew the whereabouts of Hanyu Joji.

There are also rumors that he was expelled from the mountaineering world because of the accident on Mount Everest in 1985. Why is the all-powerful Hanyu Joji in Nepal? How did he get that camera by chance? So far, including Kudo and Miyagawa, Fukamachi has not told anyone that he met Joji Hanyu in Kathmandu. When Fukamachi was in Kathmandu, he asked Miyagawa for the name of Mallory's camera model, and after returning to Japan, he also asked him to investigate the news about Joji Hanyu.Fukamachi, however, did not disclose any clues that would connect the two events. The matter of Mallory's camera and Joji Hanyu are two completely different matters on the surface.

What floated in Fukamachi's mind was the face of the man named Viper that he saw in the dark place of the shop when he was talking to Ryutam.Eyes with dark eyes, cheeks with bushy beards. What happened in Kathmandu still haunts Fukamachi.Because of this, Fukamachi is about to meet Ito like this now. What kind of past did that man have, and why is he in Nepal now? In order to get to know the man Hanyu Joji. Fukamachi thought, knowing this should be a clue to why Hanyu owned that camera. Also, head to Nepal and find out about Hanyu which should manage to do it. However, even if Hanyu is found, there will be no further breakthrough.He won't tell himself anything about that camera.If he said he didn't know, everything would be over.

Fukamachi believes that during the Japanese investigation of Hanyu Joji, some clues should be found.As long as he finds out the reason, or reason, of Hanyu Joji staying in Nepal, it will constitute a reason to see Hanyu again, and it may be a weapon or should be said to be a sharp weapon to ask about the camera. so i Fukamachi asked himself: Do I really want to see that man again? If not, why do you want to investigate Hanyu Joji? Is it like what Hanyu himself said at the time, is it the right way to forget about the camera and meeting Hanyu? Fukamachi always felt that what he said was right.

No, it must be that way. But Another scene imprinted in Fukamachi's mind revived. Two dots falling rapidly from a glacier The two dots bounce into the air and disappear into the snow beneath The images of Ioka and Funashima's death remain vividly in Fukamachi's mind. The two who turned back without reaching the summit of Mount Everest died there.A way of dying that cannot be collected.Their bodies are still in that glacier today.The bodies of the two were frozen in the snow mountain until they flowed to the end of the glacier one or two thousand years later. Fukamachi has a hunch

If I forget about Mallory's camera and Hanyu Joji now, I will probably walk into a life that has nothing to do with mountaineering from now on. No, not so much a hunch as an almost certainty. In this way, the deaths of Jing Gang and Chuan Dao will also become a thing of the past. Can you do this yourself? Fukamachi thought, he should be able to do it.It's scary because I think I can do it. Once time passes, whether it is the death of a partner or a loved one, it will become a thing of the past.No matter what kind of image it is, it will weather with time. Fukamachi thought, is this okay?

The cameras of Joji Hanyu and Mallory are the only thing that connects me to climbing these days. That's it. Apart from the matter of Jinggang and Funashima, that expedition and all the time and energy spent on climbing the mountain so far, for me, the one who maintains the relationship between myself and those things now is Joji Hanyu. If I hadn't found that camera, if I hadn't met Hanyu Joji, I would have chosen a lifestyle that was far away from mountain climbing with a painful heart. From time to time, I meet and drink with former mountain friends, and maybe sometimes go hiking in nearby mountains.

However, looking up at the top of the mountain, the kind of dreadful mountain, almost makes the heart overwhelmed I will stay away from these things and go to another world. Specifically, it is no longer a question of whether to climb a mountain or not. Even if you don't climb the mountain, if you stay on the street, you will feel anxious because of the sad emotion. If you want to look for the white rock peak, you will follow the mountain top standing in the blue sky opposite the tall buildings and you will leave that feeling. place. I don't want to leave. This is probably the reason why I am now chasing down Hanyu.

Rock climbing is a talent. I started climbing because I like mountains, but there are countless people who are more talented, physically strong, and capable than me. Fukamachi is self-aware that he cannot stand on the top of Mount Everest, nor can he be the first person to set foot on an untouched peak.So at that time, I chose the camera myself.I am not someone who climbs the peak and leaves a name in the history of mountaineering. However, I might be able to participate in that kind of expedition, to be next to someone who is challenging a wall that has never been climbed before, and to be a supporting role to assist the other person and document the ascent

Fukamachi convinced himself so much that he has participated in mountaineering all the way so far.It was also for this reason that Fukamachi felt that after the failure of this expedition, he would gradually stay away from mountaineering. The premise is, if you have not met Hanyu. The matter with Kayoko must also be concluded no matter what the conclusion is. However, during the pursuit of Hanyu, the matter is not over yet. Fukamachi didn't quite know what it was that wasn't over, but it wasn't over anyway. 80% of my mountaineering career is not over yet Fukamachi always felt that before his mountaineering career was over, there might be a different conclusion about the matter with Kayoko.No, the different conclusion is that there is no mountain top in this world, a fantasy mountain top. However, in the process of walking towards the top of the mountain that should not exist, is it possible not to draw conclusions about the relationship between himself and Kayoko? Fukamachi thought it was his own selfish escape. He understands this. He knew well that the relationship between Kayoko and himself could no longer go on.If we meet Kayoko and say that our relationship is over, we can both breathe a sigh of relief. You said you still love me just to torture me. Kayoko's words pierced Fukamachi's heart like a piece of rusted iron. Fukamachi couldn't name his mood well. That's it. No one will live by naming their past emotions one by one, nor will they live to find reasons for their behavior. Don't think about unnecessary things! Now, what makes people unable to let go is the matter of Hanyu. So, I'm investigating Hanyu Wouldn't that be good?As for whether to go to Nepal again, we will talk about it later. Koichiro Ito entered the coffee shop about seven minutes later than the agreed time, which was 3:07 pm. 2 Well, if it's about Joji Hanyu, I remember it.After Koichiro Ito finished speaking, he lit a cigarette in front of Fukamachi. After taking a deep breath, he slowly exhaled the smoke. That guy, he always climbs that kind of difficult mountain.The way to climb a mountain is like burning your ass.Speaking of that guy's way of climbing mountains? So, do you know what Hanyu Joji is doing now? Well, I don't know.I think, Mr. Fukamachi, you probably also know that eight years ago in 1985, before the accident on Mount Everest, he occasionally contacted me or sent me postcards, so I know his whereabouts If it was from the time when Hanyu joined our mountaineering club until then, I think I should tell you something Itou said so. It was in May 1960 that Hanyu joined the Qingfeng Mountaineering Club, which Ito was in charge of. At that time, Hanyu was sixteen years old, and Ito was thirty years old in his prime. I still remember that he suddenly ran to my house, hoping that I would let him join the club. Ito said: I spent almost all of my vacation in May on mountaineering training. On the day I returned home, Hanyu Joji ran to my house alone. At that time, Ito was still Wang Laowu, and he let Hanyu enter his home on the second floor. Can you let me join the Qingfeng Mountaineering Association?Hanyu blushed and said angrily. From the beginning to the end, Hanyu stared at Ito. That is not so much an application for membership, but more like a visit to kick the club.Ito smiled at Fukamachi. Hanyu ran to say that he wanted to join the club, and Ito asked him: Why do you know about our mountaineering club? Because I see it. what did you see? I saw people walking at the mountaineering meeting. Upon questioning, it turned out that this was the case. Hanyu said he came to Shinjuku not long ago and saw a dozen climbers walking inside the station.They carried backpacks heavier than people and walked in hiking boots.People around have cleared the way for the group of people.A group of rough, dirty men walked through the crowd naturally. Hanyu hesitantly said that he saw the name of the Qingfeng Mountaineering Association and the address in Machida written on the backpacks carried by the men.Hanyu wrote down the name of the mountaineering club and the name of the town, asked for directions and found this place. Why do you want to join our climbing club?Ito asked. Because I don't want to be looked down upon by others.Hanyu returned an unexpected answer. Have you been looked down upon by anyone? Um. How do you look down on Fa? many kinds of. What do you think. Some people look at me with contempt. who? Everyone. Why? Because I have no parents.Also, I have a disabled foot. Have your parents passed away? Um.when i was six Hanyu said it was because of a car accident.At that time, her younger sister was also killed in the same car accident, but she survived and was adopted by Chiba's uncle. The sequelae left at that time was that when walking, the left foot would limp slightly. Hanyu said: Others will look down on me when they see that way of walking. Nothing like that. have.Hanyu insisted. If you join the mountaineering club, won't you be looked down upon? right. Why? Because I want to do what other people can't. Wow In Shinjuku, everyone gives way That's because everyone is afraid of us who are sloppy. It's better to be feared than to be looked down upon.Hanyu's answer was straightforward. Ito suddenly thought of it and asked Hanyu: Do you like mountain climbing? When asked by Ito, Hanyu lowered his head stutteringly and said: I don't know. Ever climbed a mountain? Climb a few times. How many times is it? Just a few times. Where have you climbed? I don't know. How could you not know. I really don't know.I think it's somewhere in Danzig After a question, the thing is like this. When he was eleven years old, Hanyu went to climb a mountain by himself. It was the summer vacation in July. Once upon a time, Hanyu went to Hakone with his uncle and his family. He decided to try to climb the mountain that he saw from the window of the train on the Odakyu Line halfway.Hanyu found out later that it was the Tanzawa Mountains, the largest mountain system in Kanagawa Prefecture. Take the Odakyu Line from Shinjuku to the west and get off at a place where you can see the mountains.There happened to be a few climbers with backpacks on their backs, so Hanyu followed them, took the bus with them, and started walking from the drop-off point. The climber walked forward immediately after getting off the car, and Hanyu was alone.He climbed the mountain road alone, and he didn't know to look at the map. He thought with all his heart: In short, as long as he climbed up, he should reach the top of the mountain.On the way back, just follow the same road down the mountain. He carried nothing that could be called equipment. He carried a child's backpack with bread for lunch, a water bottle, and candy in his pockets, but he did not bring rain gear. A short-sleeve shirt, shorts, and sneakers. There are roads, but the hiking trails at that time were not as perfect as they are today. No matter how you go, you can't reach the top of the mountain. Hanyu didn't know how long it would take to reach the top of the mountain.He eats bread for lunch and wants to go home for a moment, but his feet climb up naturally.On the way, I didn't meet anyone. In the evening, Hanyu camped out behind a large rock. so cold.Yelu wet the body.After barely sleeping all night, he licked candy and drank water to satisfy his hunger, and greeted the morning. If you look closely, you can see that the top of the mountain is just above the big rock, and there is a mountain house there. As soon as Hanyu entered the mountain house, the climbers who took the bus together seemed to remember Hanyu, and said to him: Oh, you actually climbed here? Hanyu nodded. where did you sleep last night Hanyu replied: Halfway through the climb it was dark, so I slept behind the rock. Have you eaten? As soon as Hanyu said that he only had bread for lunch, the owner of the mountain house immediately brought out rice and miso soup. are you alone? Um.Hanyu said while eating. Thank you for being able to climb here.The owner of the mountain house said. Eleven-year-old Hanyu took a bus from Shibusawa on the Odakyu Line to Okura, and from there walked through the Okura ridge to the tower mountain at an altitude of 1,490 meters.This journey takes an adult's footsteps and takes four hours. Hanyu went down the mountain with the climbers who were going to Okura, and returned home that evening. He ran out without saying where he was going, so there was a lot of commotion at home, and my uncle reported the case to the police for help in the search. Hanyu was beaten by his uncle for the first time since he was taken in at his uncle's house. Hanyu told Ito about the experience without saying a word. Why do you want to go hiking alone?Ito asked. Because it's enjoyable.Sixteen-year-old Hanyu replied. joy? Because I traveled with my family, the first time was to climb a mountain climb mountains? Mountains in Shinshu. Hanyu said that his father loved mountain climbing. When he was six years old, the whole family went to climb a mountain in Shinshu for the first time. Take a bus from Matsumoto to the entrance of Shimadani, walk from there, and spend two days and one night entering Kamikochi.Stay one night at the mountain hut left by the rock fish, and then climb over the Deben Ridge. Hanyu replied to Ito: Because the mountaineering trip at that time was very pleasant. On the way back, a bus accident happened, killing Hanyu's sister and parents. How about it?Ito asked: Is Tanzawa happy to get up? I don't know. Hanyu stuttered and lowered his head, as if remembering something, he muttered indistinctly to the tatami. But, very beautiful. pretty? Yes. Hanyu said: While staying overnight behind the big rock, I saw the mountain. He saw Mount Fuji. Hanyu said: The foothills of Mt. Fuji are higher than the Tanzawa Mountains. In the distance beyond the ridgeline of the Tanzawa Mountains, I can see the snow-covered mountain peaks. White peaks in the mountains beyond The rising sun is right in front of where I am. So he understood that the mountains facing each other across the ridge line of the Danze Mountain Group were located at a higher place than where he was.The sun shines from the sky to the top of the mountain, and then from the top of the mountain to where I am, and slowly falls to the ground. southern alps Hanyu stammers and tells Ito: That's very beautiful. So Hanyu joined the Qingfeng Mountaineering Club. 3 Hanyu is a guy who doesn't know how to find tricks Koichiro Ito said. The location was changed to an izakaya bar near Machida Station. Because it was time for this kind of store to open, I changed the location. Two medium beer glasses filled with cool beer were placed on the bar in front of Fukamachi and Ito. Ito himself is over sixty years old and has retired from the first line of mountaineering.The momentum of the Qingfeng Mountaineering Club is not as good as before, and there are only a dozen or so members left. Ito became a consultant to the Mountaineering Association and is now the owner of a mountaineering supply store.Although it is a mountaineering store, generally speaking, it is actually an outdoor store. Once winter comes, the mountaineering supplies will be stuffed into the corners, and the store is full of ski equipment. Back then, our mountaineering association was also at the top of the mountaineering world, always going to dangerous places. The deformation of the inner wall of the Guchuan black hat in winter is a crack in the rock. Kitahotaka Takinaya in winter. Kashima gun north wall in winter. Getting into that kind of place is like everyday life. No matter where you take Hanyu, that guy always carries the heaviest luggage and works the hardest In summer, they take a break when they traverse the ridge. From far below the ridge, there will be the sound of the murmur of the stream. Senior, I'm going to draw water and come back. Hanyu would carry plastic buckets and spend an hour fetching water from the stream below. Because he was a rookie at the time, he was not physically stronger than others.I think his physical strength is worse than other rookies.Even the breaks are spent fetching water or preparing meals, there is no rest at all.So, in our mountaineering meetings, the first guy to get exhausted is always that guy.but ah Ito sipped the beer, wiped his lips with his fingertips, and said: No matter how tired he is, even to the point of falling down, he will never complain. Even though he was a rookie, it was the first time Fukamachi heard someone say that Joji Hanyu had no physical strength. Generally speaking, if you work so hard, you will be loved by your seniors, but this is not the case for Hanyu. why? Because he is not cute. Even if he was asked to do light work, he would refuse; even if the seniors saw the tired Hanyu and wanted him to rest, he would say: I don’t care. Hanyu doesn't rest. Often he would just keep going, pass out and cause trouble for the team. When walking, he shuffled his left foot slightly. His movements are not particularly alert, but he is a tough man, a taciturn man who can't read people's faces, and the people around him treat Hanyu that way. The first person to notice Hanyu's special talent was Ito. In the summer of the third year after Hanyu joined the club, he climbed at Pingpu Rock in Hotaka.This rock stretching from Maehotakadake in the Northern Alps to the edge of the North Ridge extending northeastward, is 1,500 meters wide and 600 meters high, making it the largest rock face in Japan. When climbing the first rock ditch, Ito, who was in the same group as Hanyu, asked Hanyu to lead. Before that, although Hanyu had never been a leader, he had accumulated several rock climbing experiences. In Ito's view, he had a good sense of balance, and it was not the first time he climbed Pingfeng Rock. Ito said to Hanyu at the rock site where he could take an easier route: Hey, you can take a look as a guide. Ito secured himself with pegs and shackles, letting Hanyu climb first. So, the guy started to crawl, looking at it, I almost couldn't help crying out. Danger. Ito swallowed the words that almost fell out of his mouth. If you look at it from the bottom, there is obviously a safe route on the side, but that guy chooses a dangerous route to climb. It made Ito break out in a cold sweat. Hanyu chose some routes, even Ito would hesitate. After rendezvous, Ito said to Hanyu: Why did you choose that route? Because that route is closer to the top. Perhaps because he didn't realize what he had done, Hanyu said in a natural tone. He was only nineteen years old. He doesn't look at crags in terms of dangerous or not dangerous thinking.Which route is closest to the top is Hanyu's only choice. Ito exclaimed: Your climbing method is very dangerous. At that time, Ito said that to Hanyu. why? Because you are not afraid of rocks. You must be more afraid of rocks. Ito warned Hanyu like this, but Hanyu just responded vaguely: oh Hanyu didn't seem to understand what Ito said. Since then, Hanyu has developed a knack for rock climbing. Even if he changed to mountain climbing, the number of times he led the mountain would naturally increase. At the age of 21, regardless of experience, he was no less skilled than the elites of the Qingfeng Mountaineering Association. Sitting on an equal footing with Qingfenghui's top spot is equivalent to being among the few mountaineers in Japan. However, Hanyu remained silent. Climbing, well, that's a talent. Ito looked at Fukamachi with a blushing face. yes. Fukamachi nodded. Fukamachi knew this too. mountaineering The behavior of carrying heavy luggage on the mountain road is basically determined by physical strength.Even if it is related to talent, it only accounts for a very small proportion. However, clinging to climbing up a rock wall, even if the main premise requires physical strength, must also require other things. Sense of balance, rhythm, control of self-emotion In the field of rock climbing, there are realms that cannot be reached by the efforts of climbers alone.To get there, what is needed is not what one names a technique or a method. There is something that can only be called by the vague name of talent. Climbers with physical strength, courage, and skills can indeed climb rocks, but sometimes, if they climb rocks at a normal speed, they are almost beginners, and those who are obviously at a disadvantage in experience, technology, and physical strength will climb easily. This can only be called nature. The kind of person who looks bulky when climbing a mountain with luggage on his back will change the moment he starts climbing. This kind of person's rock climbing is not only fast, but also beautiful.There is a flowing rhythm. Hanyu is that kind of climber, Ito said. Hey, he's a genius.Ito murmured. Hanyu's rock climbing movements are like butterflies, and he feels like he is climbing up the rock wall lightly like this. Hanyu successively climbed rock walls that are recognized as difficult in the Japanese mountaineering circle. Climbing the Kurasawa cup face of Mt. Tanigawa. Climbing the front wall of Pingfeng Rock There are a few artificial rock climbing routes in Japan.Hanyu was the lead from the beginning to the end. He also climbed many difficult routes such as Takiya or Pingfengyan in winter. After joining the club, from the fourth year to the fifth year, he almost went crazy and climbed all the rock walls. It is said that this is the time when the number of days entering the mountain reaches 250 days a year. He must attend the mountaineering trips of the Mountaineering Club, and stay to climb after the end. One year after Hanyu graduated from junior high school, he joined the Qingfeng Mountaineering Club. He didn't go to high school.Didn't go to college either.He left his uncle's house and went to work while climbing mountains. He lied about his age, and he did almost all rough jobs from sewer engineering, subway engineering, cargo handling in harbors, truck escorts for moving companies, to iron factories. Every time he went to climb a mountain, he changed jobs. The Qingfeng Mountaineering Association is a mountaineering association for social people, unlike the associations in universities, some funds are allocated by the school association.Therefore, the cost of climbing is completely at your own expense.Even sponsors have to find their own. More importantly, all have their own jobs.Everyone tried to arrange time to climb the mountain while they were busy. Hanyu gambled everything on mountain climbing, and there are very few people who can be with a man like him. Some people open a shop at home and have already decided that they will inherit the family business sooner or later; some people are engaged in jobs that allow them to arrange their own time.These people will take turns to accompany Hanyu. Go into the Northern Alps with someone for a week.A week later, we parted ways with that person in Kusawa; Hanyu stayed in the tent in Kusawa, waiting for the next partner to enter the mountain.If you enter Takinaya with the first person, then climb Pingfeng Rock with the second person, that is what Hanyu did. It's cheaper than going back and forth between the mountain and Tokyo every time I go climbing alone. Before one partner leaves and the next one arrives, if there are three days, Hanyu will do a part-time job unloading goods and move from Kamikochi to Kurosawa.In this way, you can also make money on the mountain. Whether in Tanigawa or the Southern Alps, Hanyu has adopted this approach. Even if he spared half a day on the mountain, Hanyu would like to climb. let's go.he said to his partner. Only half a day.Anyway, I will turn back halfway, so why not take it easy for a long time. Even if the other party said that, Hanyu didn't agree. let's go.Since it's only half a day, wouldn't it be good if we go halfway and then turn back? The other party had no choice but to accommodate him. However, Hanyu went one step further and asked the other party: Why did you climb the mountain? At that time, even Hanyu had no idea of ​​climbing alone.Basically, climbing requires a rope friend. If this person does not go, I will not be able to climb. Hanyu also often vented this kind of dissatisfaction directly on the other party. The number of people who wanted to partner with Hanyu naturally decreased. Then, something happened that made those around me cringe. That's actually not a big deal.It's just an episode about Joji Hanyu's remarks. Hanyu was twenty-three years old at the time. The partners of the Qingfeng Mountaineering Club held a banquet. When the banquet continues The topic naturally talked about mountaineering, and what would I do when I was hanging on the rock wall with my brother-in-law rope friends. In winter, I hang myself on the rock wall with a climbing rope.Ropemates hang below.The weight of friends is added to oneself.If you only have your own weight, you can try to escape, but if you add the weight of your friends, you can't move. I know that if they are in this state, both of them will definitely die. However, if you cut the climbing rope while you still have physical strength and let your friend fall to the bottom of the valley, your life will be saved. At this time, if it is yourself, can you cut the climbing rope? People are talking about this topic. If it was you, I would cut the climbing rope. Someone made this kind of joke, but once it was considered as a practical problem, no one said the answer for a long time. Even if he knew he would be saved, it would be hard to cut the climbing rope. After all, knowing the guy down there is alive. Everyone said: You have to go to the scene to know, but there is no way to cut the climbing rope so easily. Just at this time If it were me, I'd cut the climbing rope. Hanyu, who had been silent until now, uttered these words. However, the other party is someone you know, your friend. I can do it. Hanyu said with a serious face: Because I know that if it continues like this, both of them will die.In this case, I can do it. If you were the person below, how would you feel? I think the other party cut the climbing rope, and I can't blame him. Hanyu said briskly. This group of men all had the experience of clinging to the rock wall, falling off the rock wall once or twice, and being hanged in mid-air by a climbing rope to save their lives.Therefore, I can picture my body suspended in the air tens of meters above the ground, or more than 100 meters above the ground, with a fairly realistic feeling. They also know the feeling of chilling when their weight disappears instantly when someone cuts the climbing rope and falls at the speed of free fall. Even this group of men felt terrified at Hanyu's straightforward statement. There was an atmosphere of disappointment on the spot. I'll cut the climbing rope.So I have no complaints when someone cuts the climbing rope.If faced with that kind of life-threatening moment, it doesn't matter if the other party cuts the climbing rope. The conversation started as a banter at a banquet.And it's a hypothetical topic.Regarding that hypothetical topic, Hanyu Joji said so with a serious expression that surprised others. Did that happen?Fukamachi sighed and muttered. He is a man who can't figure out what's going on in his head. Ito Gakufukachi sighed and said in a low voice.