Chapter 8 Chapter 6 The Wind on the Ridge

1 The person who knew Joji Hanyu best at that time was Katsuhiko Tada of Grand Choras. Dajoras is a Japanese mountaineering equipment manufacturer. In the early days of the Showa 40s (1965︱1974), this manufacturer only manufactured simple hiking shoes, mountaineering backpacks, rain gear and water bottles, etc. When the mountaineering fever gradually became a social fashion, It turned into a manufacturer specializing in mountaineering products, and began to manufacture winter mountaineering boots, ice sticks, tents, etc. In the era when skiing was popular, it extended its tentacles to ski products.

At present, it has become a specialized manufacturer of skis and outdoor products, and its business scale has greatly expanded, far surpassing its initial stage. Makoto Fukamachi met Tada on the third floor of the head office building in Gotanda in Daijoras. Fukamachi told him on the phone that he wanted to interview Hanyu. If it's an hour or so, I can dial in the time So Tada designated this day. three o'clock in the afternoon On the business card received from Tada, the title of business manager was written. um, yes.I was the one who brought Hanyu into our company and became the first tester of our company.He is not an employee but a contractor

Tada said while making coffee for Fukamachi himself. Sorry to trouble you to make coffee for me Where are the words.I was originally a climber, and I was used to doing everything by myself. The aroma of authentic coffee brewed by a drip coffee machine wafts from the coffee cups on the coffee table. Because of the trend of skiing and outdoor activities, canoeing has also been on the rise since three years ago, but as a mountain lover, I feel a little empty. Have fewer people going mountain climbing? Yes.Even tents and other supplies are mostly family-style.It doesn't have to be particularly small and light.Even the gas stove does not need to be carried up the mountain, so as long as the size of the car can be carried

Tada added: Because few people would want to carry heavy luggage and walk to the top of the mountain with their heads dull Hanyu came to our company, I think it was in 1977. Tada seems to be searching for the events of the year in his own mind, his eyes wandering in mid-air. I think it was after he quit the Qingfeng Mountaineering Club because of the accident where the climbing rope broke.I found out that Joji Hanyu was looking for a job.I met Hanyu several times, so I got in touch with him. It is Hanyu's job to use new products on site and express various opinions before they are mass-produced by Grand Cholas.

In addition, it is necessary to participate in outdoor activities sponsored by manufacturers to teach participants rock climbing and mountaineering skills. Anyway, it's not a regular job. A store that sells Daijoras products heard about Hanyu who had climbed Oni-Iwa, and asked him to serve as a sales consultant for a mountaineering shop. Hanyu sometimes works as a store clerk, answering questions from customers in mountaineering equipment stores, advising customers on their climbing plans, and sometimes acting as a guide. Hanyu only worked on the product testing of Grand Cholas for a few years, but he worked as a consultant at the mountaineering equipment store in Takesuikan for eight years before Hanyu had an accident in the Himalayas.

The condition of being able to ask for leave to enter the mountain at any time allowed Hanyu to work for a long time, but it is incredible that during this period, Hanyu spent a considerable number of days on this job.Hanyu is still on the front line, entering the mountain as a mountaineer, but his way of climbing is no longer the same as before, regardless of his life. During this period, in the summer of Showa 52 (1977), Hanyu climbed a foreign mountain for the first time in his life.In one summer, he climbed the three north walls of the Eiger North Wall, the Matterhorn North Wall, and the Great Choras North Wall in the European Alps.

At this time, he was not alone. Tada, four years older than Hanyu, accompanied him. Hanyu was thirty-three years old, and Tada was thirty-seven. Hanyu must be a genius, his climbing method is impeccable.He didn't hesitate on the rock face.No, that statement is incorrect.He will hesitate, but once he hesitates, he will make up his mind and reach out to the difficult place.As if he was angry at himself who was afraid of the rock, and wanted to punish himself, he stretched out his hand to that difficult rock.Then, get over it. Tada nodded as if suddenly remembering something, and said: Hanyu is a freak.He really has some things that people can't understand with common sense.

What kind of place? After climbing all three North Faces in one summer and the final Great Choras North Face, the guy and I toasted with a beer at Lasker Mountain House.I myself was drinking in a full mood because I solved a rather difficult matter, but that guy was different. The guy said to me while drinking. say what? He said that this kind of mountain is simply trivial. Trifle? That's right.I was taken aback. At that time, Hanyu said the following to Tada: □□□ No matter how difficult the rock wall is to climb in summer, it is nothing special.Sure enough, the north wall in winter is the most challenging.Unless it's the first time ever, there's no point in doing it.

At first, I thought Hanyu was joking.However, he really felt that the three major north walls in Xia Tian were nothing special.He is free to think what he likes, but that kind of words should not be said to someone who has just climbed the three major north walls with him.Alas, looking back now, I think that he cared so strongly about Zhang Gu's grades. In February of the year when Hanyu and Tada finished climbing the Alps together, Hase Tsuneo climbed the North Face of the Matterhorn alone and stood on the top, more than five months earlier than the two. In winter, and climbing the Matterhorn North Wall alone, this is of course the first time in the world.

This became an opportunity to push Hase's name from the Japanese stage to the world stage. Hanyu cared about this. Although he didn't mention Zhang Gu's name, he obviously cared about Zhang Gu's achievements. It was Hanyu's first mountaineering trip abroad to test new tents and supplies, and the travel expenses of Hanyu and Tada were paid by Da Choras. That kind of thing shouldn't be said at that time. Tada said he finally understood why Hanyu gradually lost his companions. Hase, who Hanyu is very interested in, has climbed rock faces in the European Alps since he climbed the Matterhorn North Face in February 1952.

The year after climbing the Matterhorn, in March of Showa 53 (1978), Hase climbed the North Face of Eiger alone.As far as climbing alone in winter is concerned, this is also the first time in the world. Chang Gu has now completely become the darling of the global mountaineering community. In addition, in the winter of the year after climbing the Eiger (1979), Changgu challenged the north face of the Grand Cholas. Among the climbers in the world, no one has successfully climbed this rock wall alone in winter. The first year was the North Face of Matterhorn, the next year was the North Face of Eiger, and the next year was the North Face of Grand Choras. Among the climbers in the world, no one has succeeded in winter. One person alone climbed the most difficult three-dimensional mountain in the European Alps. The big mountain wall is an unprecedented feat in the history of world mountaineering. The North Face of Great Choras in winter can be said to be the last remaining large rock wall in the European Alps.Climb her and thus conclude the final chapter in the history of mountaineering in the European Alps.For Japanese climbers who entered the Alps late in history, the remaining virgin rock walls are extremely difficult and dangerous rock walls. These walls have repulsed several climbers, both famous and unknown, before. Hanyu No, apart from Hanyu, any climber who is interested in rock climbing can fully imagine that Hase will challenge her. one day i will Climbers who think this way are afraid to climb these rock walls because of practical problems. Because the degree of risk varies greatly. Climbing alone requires one to two times more physical strength and willpower than climbing alone. Basically, the amount and number of tents, gas stoves, wedge nails, shackles and climbing ropes are almost the same whether one person climbs or two people climb.If there are two people, the weight of the equipment can be evenly distributed on the backs of the two, but if it is one person, you must rely on your own strength to carry the total weight of those items up. If it is rock climbing, I will leave my luggage at the starting point and climb empty-handed first.After climbing to the top, hang down to the original position, carry the luggage there, and climb the same rock wall again.In other words, the same rock face has to be climbed twice. The temperature is twenty to thirty degrees below zero.The blizzard will hit the body with the strong wind, and it must be done repeatedly for more than a week on the way to the north wall where the sun does not shine all year round. Fresh snow fell without interruption, like a shower.It is also often necessary to drive wedges into the rock on the way to the rock wall, fix the tent on the rock like a hammock, and sleep in it. Could barely sleep. During the rock climbing, he became mentally disturbed, had auditory hallucinations, and fell to his death as a result. Winter's Great Josla North Wall has always rejected people in this way. Since Hase wanted to do that, I took the first step. Although I thought so, I couldn't actually do it. If Zhang Gu wanted to do that, he had to let him go. That is not only the idea of ​​Japan, but also the thoughts of mountaineers all over the world. However, there is only one person who cannot accept such a thing. That is Joji Hanyu. Tada said. 2 Can you let me rest from February to the end of March? Hanyu asked Tada for leave in mid-January. What mountain are you going to climb? When Tada asked, Hanyu muttered and replied: "Well, eh The way of answering was blunt and the tone of voice was stiff.The expression is unnatural. Tada immediately thought of what he meant. You're not going to climb the Great Choras, are you? Tada's words made Hanyu silent. Do you want to climb before Canggu goes to climb? When asked, Hanyu was noncommittal. Please let me go.Hanyu only said this. Tada understood that when Hanyu was in this state, if he said no, he would probably quit his job. Currently, Grand Choras is preparing a new type of winter tent and waterproof and breathable down jacket. In order to conduct final testing for these products, Hanyu will bring these tents and down jackets into Tanigawa in March. What about Yueshui Hall? I haven't told Mr. Mizuno yet.I plan to ask him again tomorrow. Mizuno Osamu is the manager of Yuesuikan. I'll consider taking a look.wait for me a while.Tada said. You won't let me go after thinking about it, will you?Hanyu asked. Tada gritted his teeth. He understood what Hanyu meant. Chang Gu’s visit to the Grand Choras Peak this time was sponsored by several manufacturers, and the mountaineering supplies manufacturer Grand Choras was also one of them. Hase wanted to challenge himself to climb to the top of the North Wall of Grand Cholas in winter, and Grand Cholas became his sponsor, but let his internal tester Hanyu take a step ahead of Hase in an attempt to become the first person to climb to the top. It is unreasonable would allow this behavior. Tada asked him which mountain he was going to climb, and the reason why Hanyu didn't answer was because of this reason behind it. We don't know which mountain Hanyu went to climb, we just let him go on vacation. Big Choras can do this kind of superficial work, but it's just superficial at best. Why not let me climb it?Hanyu pressed the silent Tada. Why does our company pay other people to climb the Grand Cholas but not me? Hanyu, it's not what you said.It's not that our company pays Changgu to climb.It was Zhang Gu who was going to climb by himself.Zhang Gu made up his mind and planned to climb by himself.Our company just provided Changgu with some money and supplies.Sponsors like our company, and several others Tada was right. In addition to Grand Choras, there are several companies that have become Canggu's sponsors. Including publishing houses, film production companies, food manufacturers, TV stations, newspaper offices, watch manufacturers, wine makers, and Grand Choras, there are more than ten companies in total. Assist Hase's project as a sponsor. All this is because last year and the year before last, Zhang Gu was the first to climb the north face of Eiger and the north face of Matterhorn alone in winter, and handed over a beautiful report card. Hanyu fell silent. He lowered his head and walked out of Tada's office.In the end, without waiting for leave approval, he resigned from his job in Grand Choras. Because Mizuno granted one month's leave at Yuesuikan, Hanyu didn't have to resign. But why does Hanyu care about Hase so much?Fukamachi asked Tada. You know how Hase climbed over the ghost rock? Know.It seems that in the year after climbing the three major north walls of the European Alps, Hase climbed the ghost rock that Hanyu climbed.In hindsight, that was a preparation for the challenge of climbing the Matterhorn North Face solo in the winter of that year? Yes. Hanyu was shocked when Hase went to climb the ghost rock, right? Have you ever heard anyone say that Hase went to ask Hanyu for advice before climbing the Oni Rock? Is there such a thing? I think it should be January of Showa 52. In other words, it was an accident when the mountain rope of Pingfeng Rock broke. That's right.Hase came to Hanyu in the winter of the year following the accident, or should I say the same winter, in January. Wow When Hanyu decided to be our company's tester, Hanyu and I were drinking at an izakaya in Shibuya Was Hase there? Yes. Tada said: We were drinking warm Japanese sake while chatting about mountain climbing. When we were sitting in Japanese-style seats, eating hot pot and drinking alcohol across a small table, one of the group of four sitting around the fire kept looking at Hanyu from two tables away. Judging from his tanned face from the sun reflecting off the snow, I guessed that he was probably a mountain climber, but I didn't know the man. After a while, the man stood up from his seat and walked towards Hanyu and Tada's seats. excuse me.I hope I am not mistaken, are you Mr. Hanyu? Hanyu nodded in acknowledgment, and the man's expression lit up immediately. His age is about twenty-eight or nine years old, maybe thirty years old at most. My surname is Chang Gu.The man gives his name. Hase? Hase Changxiong. Oh, that one Hanyu nodded, Hase shyly scratched his head, feeling embarrassed. This man is as passionate as the sun. Seeing his natural and unaffected smile, Hanyu, who seldom smiled, couldn't help smiling. Feel sorry.Can I have a word with you? Chang Gu said: I have something to ask you. Both Tada and Hanyu were seeing Hase for the first time, but of course they knew Hase's name. He is a man who has successively climbed difficult rock faces in the Japanese and European Alps.He often climbs with a rope friend, but he also challenges the rock wall alone a lot. OK. Hanyu replied, as soon as Tada moved his body, Hase sat cross-legged beside him.When Chang Gu left his original seat, his three partners were still sitting around the table. After Hase introduced himself again, he said: Mr. Hanyu, can you tell me about your trip to the Ghost Rock? Hase leaned his body towards the table and said. What about Ghost Rock? Yes.There are few such steep rock faces in Japan.Even the European Alps are few and far between.In the winter of 1970, while climbing the Takizawa ditch-like rock wall, I glanced at Ghost Rock and trembled with fear. Hase's eyes flickered. It's scary.I don't think I can handle it.I thought at the time, what kind of person would Mr. Hanyu be if he climbed to such a place? In his tone, there was a kind of compliment that was not flattering. I just got lucky. Hanyu just responded indifferently, but Tada also sensed from his tone that he didn't seem to be in a bad mood. The conversation turned to the rock face of the Ghost Rock. When Hase asked, Hanyu answered. Surprisingly, Hanyu seems to remember every move from the time he climbed on the ghost rock to the end of the climb. How far the hanging rock protrudes from his right hand, how big is the grabbing point, or how many centimeters it protrudes, Hanyu stands on the tatami of the izakaya and demonstrates his movements at that time to Hase. Chang Gu asked in detail about the place and method of sleeping in the open. Judging from Hase's tone of voice, he seems to have studied Ghost Rock quite thoroughly. After speaking from beginning to end, Chang Gu bowed his head in thanks. Grateful. So farewell. Hanyu asked Hase who was about to get up: Are you going to climb Ghost Rock? No one has successfully conquered Oni Rock in winter since Hanyu and Inoue climbed it together in 1970. A few men challenged her, but all returned in vain, and half of them lost their lives. Yes.tomorrow Chang Gu stood up and said heartily. tomorrow? Um.Tomorrow, I will enter Tanigawa.A smile appeared on his face. Isn't this man nervous? Tada said he thought so at the time. Won't he be nervous? Before that, there were several dead people in the ghost rock in winter, and recently no one even wants to climb the long valley. It doesn't look like a man who is going to enter there tomorrow. Are not you afraid?Tada asked. I'm afraid.Chang Gu replied. There was a slight tremor in his voice. It's like knowing that there are tigers in the mountain, but walking towards the mountain Hase laughed. Who do you partner with? When Tada asked, Changgu scratched his head again and said, "I'll go alone." 3 As a result, Zhang Gu climbed up the ghost rock alone. Tada drank about one-fifth of the remaining coffee in the cup in one gulp. Holding an empty coffee cup, he murmured: Therefore, Changgu went to climb the Matterhorn North Wall one month after climbing the ghost rock. Before the Matterhorn, Hanyu climbed Ghost Rock again in February, right?but this time alone Fukamachi asked. Yes. Inspired by Hase? I think that's right. Hase, who wanted to climb Ghost Rock alone and practiced it himself, was a strange person, and Hanyu, who later climbed Ghost Rock alone once, was no different. As a result, humans have climbed Ghost Rock three times in winter so far.Only three people, Hanyu, Inoue, and Hase, have climbed up, and only Hanyu has climbed twice This record remains unchanged to this day. So that's the case, Fukamachi nodded. For Hanyu Joji, the only and greatest medal is the ghost rock in winter. No matter what kind of people climb what kind of mountains abroad and what kind of achievements they get I was the first person to climb Ghost Rock in winter. That is Hanyu's spiritual sustenance. But Zhang Gu took away that spiritual sustenance. No one wants to climb Ghost Rock alone in winter.But Chang Gu did it very easily. Fukamachi guessed that Hanyu was probably gnashing his teeth in anger, very unwilling. Hanyu also climbed Ogre Rock alone in winter a month after Hase climbed Ogre Rock. It took Hase three times to climb the Oni Rock, and Hanyu climbed the Oni Rock after only sleeping twice.The number of outdoor sleepers is small, so it’s hard to say, but it is an unshakable fact that the first person to climb Ghost Rock alone in winter was Zhang Gu. Canggu camped out three times, but I climbed up after only two camps. When Hanyu told himself this in his heart, a self-comforting thing like laughing at him happened. Tsuneo Hase was the first person to solo the Matterhorn North Face in winter, eclipsing Hanyu's record. I'm afraid it started at that time. Hanyu Joji, a talented climber, began to care about another talented climber, Hase Tsuneo. Of course, before that, Hanyu had long been aware of Hase, who set brilliant records again and again. In the 48th year of the Showa era (1973), Hase climbed to 8,350 meters as a member of the Everest mountaineering team in Japan, and Hanyu was also active in the mountaineering world. Probably from this time on, Hanyu began to clearly realize that the climber Hase Tsuneo was a real person. 4 Hanyu Joji and Hase Tsuneo No climber contrasts as strongly as these two. Makoto Fukamachi thinks so. Yin and Yang. If Hanyu is Yin, Hase is Yang. While Fukamachi interviewed Hanyu about his deeds, he began to collect the mountaineering records of Hanyu and Hase. He also read the articles they had submitted to mountaineering magazines. Hanyu hardly left that kind of article, but Hase wrote several articles in magazines related to mountaineering, especially after he climbed the North Face of Great Cholas alone in winter, even ordinary magazines and newspapers began to often publish his special interview reports . Compared with Hase who left behind three books, Hanyu only submitted a short article to a mountaineering magazine called "Yuewang" when he climbed the ghost rock.This is the only article written by him himself, and it is often an objective record afterwards. Of course, Hanyu is more often recorded in the articles of those who traveled with him. □□□ Hanyu often looked like he was climbing just to fall. Koichiro Ito, Qingfeng Mountaineering Association's journal "Blue Wind" Issue 21 (issued in June 1965) □□□ I think Hanyu does often show genius climbing methods, but relatively, it is also more and more dangerous. Koichiro Ito, the 2nd and 2nd issue of Qingfeng Mountaineering Association's journal "Blue Wind" (issued in December 1965) □□□ He rarely smiles, but when he does he has a childlike smile. Koichiro Ito, the 2nd and 3rd issues of Qingfeng Mountaineering Association's journal "Blue Wind" (issued in March 1966) □□□ To speak well is innocence, but to speak badly is capricious.There are some parts of Hanyu's personality like this.As a result, Hanyu and I parted ways, but even now, I often envy him.Because I can't face mountain climbing without distraction like him.I didn't leave him because I hated him, or hated him.If someone asks me whether I like him or hate him, I probably like him.I was in awe of both the technique and the strong emotion that the guy faced climbing the mountain.However, I didn't think so until I was no longer his rope friend. Makio Inoue, "Talking about Ghost Rock" (Interview), "Yue Wang" May 1970 □□□ I heard about Hanyu-san at Lasker Mountain House.While climbing, I passed the place where Hanyu-san fell, and there was a safer route on the left, but Hanyu-san seemed to be climbing straight up from there.That route is not impossible to climb, but I find it weird, why did Mr. Hanyu choose the route to climb there? Tsuneo Hase, <Volleying the Grand Cholas Peak> (Interview), "Asahi Weekly" April 21, 1979 Issue □□□ Hanyu Joji is a man who likes people.He doesn't hate people.I understand this very well now.He loves human society and drinks with friends.Perhaps Hanyu's true aspirations are the same as everyone else's, wanting to be an ordinary person.However, that guy couldn't get along well with others except himself.No, I think, he might not even be able to get along well with himself.Because he seems to be arguing with himself all the time.So, I figured that guy was going to head straight into climbing.Mountain climbing was probably the only way the guy used to participate in human society.That guy, I hope others will praise him, I hope so badly, it's probably hopeless.So I think, he will only choose dangerous things to do. It's the same when drinking with a partner, either going home immediately, or staying to drink until the end.At the end of the drink, he would ask for another share, and another share.With every new stall, the number of partners gradually decreases, and he will show a lonely expression.I always felt like I couldn't leave that guy alone, and in the end, he and I would often drink until dawn.Such a guy who wants to be accompanied by others often enters the mountain alone.I think that guy probably went into the mountains all day long because he wanted someone to accompany him.I also feel responsible for what happened on Everest.After all, I was the one who recommended him to the climbing team. Koichiro Ito, <The Possibility of Climbing Mount Everest> (Interview), "Yue Wang" September 1986 □□□ Hanyu did the impossible in the Himalayas.I agree with his talent, his technique, but as far as climbers are concerned, I have no comment. Satoshi Tanabe, <The Possibility of Climbing Mount Everest> (Interview), "Yue Wang" September 1986 Hase Tsuneo himself has written several articles on mountaineering. □□□ It's not the mountain's fault that you can't climb that mountain.The mountain didn't do anything to the mountaineer.The reason why the mountaineer can't climb the mountain is because the mountaineer lost to himself. "Poetry of the North Wall", published by Yueyoushe □□□ I carried my friend's body on my back and walked down the mountain through the snow.When I reached the steep slope, I looked back at Guchuan. I did nothing. The mountain was quiet, just the same mountain as usual. "Poetry of the North Wall", Yue Youshe □□□ I didn't climb mountains to kill myself.Instead, he climbed mountains to survive, to grasp the living evidence.What that evidence is, I cannot explain in words.I knew that when I was in the mountains, clinging to dangerous rock faces, but once I got back to the city, I forgot about it.When you think about it, climbing a mountain is like remembering that. "Grand Choras Peak", Yueyoushe □□□ To climb a mountain is to have a dialogue with the mountain.Talk to the mountain while looking for where you are in the mountain.For me, that act is mountain climbing.The more dangerous and difficult rock walls I face, the more I feel that I can have an in-depth dialogue with the mountain. "Grand Choras Peak", Yueyoushe □□□ Entering the mountain alone is dangerous and steep. "Grand Choras Peak", Yueyoushe □□□ Probably, definitely have to climb the mountain.Some people may say: If you just want to be in that extreme situation, there are many ways other than climbing mountains, and it is not necessarily necessary to do that.However, for me, I think that extreme situation has to be brought about through climbing. "Climbing to the Limit", Yue Youshe □□□ Animals presumably survive with food.All you need is food and a place to sleep.However, humans are different.Human beings are not able to live without thinking or doing anything if they meet their needs for clothing, food, and shelter.To survive, human beings need not only the material level, but also the spiritual level of constantly climbing to the top. Longevity is not the only purpose of living.There is no doubt about it.In a person's life, what should be regarded as a problem is whether he lives well or not, not whether he grows or dies. The point is how to live, not how long to live. Life is not about length. "Climbing to the Limit", Yue Youshe □□□ Merely being there on the top of a mountain isn't the highest thing, though.That's just a stone on the side of the road. It is supreme because someone's eyes are upon it.When one thinks of the top of the mountain, it is precisely because one yearns for the top of the mountain that it becomes the highest place, it becomes a sacred place. It is not because the top of the mountain is sacred that people yearn for it.It is because people yearn for it from the depths of their souls that it becomes a sacred place. "Climbing to the Limit", Yue Youshe