Chapter 9 Chapter 7 Great Choras Peak

1 The Great Cholas is located northeast of Mont Blanc. Her ridge extends about one kilometer from east to west, with six peaks. East Peak Walker Peak, 4,205 meters above sea level, is the highest point of the Great Cholas Peak. West Peak Wenpa Peak. Kuro Peak. Mount Jareno. Marugreet Peak. Yang Gefeng. Each peak is taller than Mount Fuji. In 1865, Edward.Winpa climbed the West Peak first.And the first person to set foot on the highest point of East Peak was Horace.Walker.The peak is named after the man who first set foot there in 1868. The north wall of the Great Cholas is arguably the most famous rock wall in the European Alps.The Walker Side, which is 1,200 meters higher than the Walker Peak, is particularly famous. In 1938, Cassing, Esposito, and Tizzoni climbed it for the first time.

In January 1963, Walter.For the first time, Ponatti climbed successfully in winter.Of course, he is not alone. It was not until 1979 that Hase Changxiong successfully climbed this rock wall alone in winter for the first time. Fukamachi himself once visited the Great Chora Peak for interviews. She is a majestic and unique mountain. Looking up from the Lascaux Glacier, you will never get tired of seeing the mountain. no way When Fukamachi visited the Gakusuikan, Osamu Mizuno sat on the small round chair inside and said to him. Mizuno also asked Fukamachi to sit on the same chair, and the two faced each other.

Mizuno should be in his sixties, but he has a big frame and thick wrists. He has probably been far away from the difficult mountain, but if he wants to climb the mountain, he still has the physique to stand on the front line. Because I know that even if I stop Hanyu, he will still go.Besides, if I'd said no, I wouldn't have hired him in the first place. On the wall behind Mizuno, there is a wall full of hiking backpacks. There are many imports from brands such as Millet, but there are also products from domestic manufacturers such as Grand Choras. There was a distinct smell in the store, not sweat or the iron of the ice stick.Fukamachi didn't dislike the smell.Smelling and smelling, the mood will calm down.

Originally, the investigation was conducted to find out what Hanyu was doing now, but during the interview process, Fukamachi gradually became interested in the man Hanyu Joji himself. The original purpose was to meet Mallory's camera one more time.Fukamachi wanted to get the camera, to see if it was Mallory's camera.For this purpose, it is necessary to investigate where Hanyu Joji is in Nepal.An investigation should have been launched for this. Of course, the premise is that the Japanese named Bisalu sap I met in Kathmandu is Joji Hanyu. First of all, that man must be Hanyu.Fukamachi confirmed it through the photo Miyagawa gave him.

If you just want to find out where Hanyu is, then fly to Nepal again at your own expense to try to find it. However, now there is no guarantee that Hanyu is in Nepal. If he is outside Kathmandu, finding that man without any clues is like looking for a needle in a haystack. Regardless of whether it was Ito, Inoue or Tada, in the end, no one knew about Hanyu's recent situation. But no matter what, he finally found Mizuno along the line. Then, in the end, Hanyu left, right? And it's a person. Are you alone? Yes.Hanyu started from Japan, so he is alone On February 10, Hanyu set off from Japan.

Set out alone. The only ones who knew about this beforehand were Katsuhiko Tada of Grand Choras and Osamu Mizuno of Takesuikan. What happened next is mostly as everyone knows. Hanyu fell down, didn't he? Yes. It was February 18th when Hanyu left the Lasker Mountain House and climbed up the Walker Ridge. On the first day, he climbed the Lebfate Crack.The next day, while climbing the wall above, he fell. The drop is about fifty meters. Contusions all over. Broken right arm and leg. Three ribs were broken. From there Hanyu escaped with only one arm. Later, this escape trip called Miracle Climbing became the myth of Hanyu Joji.

That escape trip made Zhang Gu, who followed up with the challenge, succeed.In some respects, this treacherous ascent is arguably more difficult than the first solo ascent of the Great Jollas Walker in winter.After that miraculous ascent, even the general media remembered Hanyu's name and listed him alongside Hase. Knowing about Hanyu's accident before anyone else, the one who contacted the rescue team was the team that climbed up the long valley on the side of Walker three days later. When Hase's team wanted to climb the rock wall, they noticed that there was no trace of Hanyu anywhere on the rock wall above, so they realized that something happened to Hanyu.

I was alone when I went.When he came back, Hanyu was alone, Mizuno said to Fukamachi. 2 Had that dream again. A man climbed alone to the top of a mountain among the stars. I can only see the man's back, if he turns his head Maybe he is Joji Hanyu. At first, Fukamachi also thought that the man might be Mallory or Irwin, but at least now, Fukamachi thinks he is Hanyu. A light sleep. Because while I was dreaming, I thought it was a dream. It was also strange to identify who the man was.This was originally a dream, not reality.Every time what I care about in my mind will be reflected in the dream, and the image and the way I feel will change.The reason why I think this man might be Hanyu is because now, I care about Hanyu's affairs.

During the day, I met Mizuno Osamu and talked with him about Hanyu.That probably also affected the dream. Fukamachi also thought that he would probably wake up from this dream soon.Because my thoughts gradually became clearer than the dream itself. Sleep became lighter. Well What is that? By the way, Mizuno Osamu said it when he was parting. What did he say? Letters That's right, it's a letter. Do you know Hanyu Joji's manuscript?Mizuno said so. No, I don't know.What kind of letter? Letters recording the rock climbing of the Great Choras. Did you write it after you came back?

No, I didn't write it until I came back.It was written by Hanyu himself on the rock wall of the Great Cholas Peak while climbing. Is there such a thing? have.But it was not published in any magazine. Have you ever watched Mizuno-san? No.However, I know who owns it. Fukamachi said to Mizuno: I really want to read that manuscript. I can't say the person's name right now, but I will tell him about you, Mizuno said. After Fukamachi bowed his head to Mizuno, he said to him: By the way, is there anyone who might know about Hanyu's whereabouts? do not know Mizuno seemed to be trying to remember something, and looked up at the colorful hiking backpack hanging above his head.

If you were a doctor when you climbed the Himalayas, maybe you would know something. doctor? Dr. Okamoto Senjiro. Oh, that one Fukamachi nodded.He knew Senjiro Okamoto. Since the beginning of the Himalayas expedition era of the Japan Mountaineering Association, he has participated in several expeditions as a doctor. He should also have joined the Mount Everest expedition that Hanyu Joji joined in 1985 as a doctor. Mr. Okamoto is in Osaka. After Mizuno finished speaking, he told Fukamachi Okamoto Senjiro's contact information. I have to contact Okamoto tomorrow. As Fukamachi thought so, his consciousness was more than half awake from sleep. But why do you want to know about Hanyu Joji so much?Mizuno asked him. Because of his interest in the way he climbs mountains Fukamachi replied: If possible, one day I would like to compile the life story of the man Joji Hanyu into a book.If possible, I would also like to include an exclusive interview with him. Fukamachi concealed the fact that he met Hanyu in Kathmandu, Nepal, and Mallory's camera, but basically, he told the truth. Sleep becomes lighter. Fukamachi himself didn't quite know the order in which he actually talked with Mizuno about the things he remembered just now.But the idea of ​​writing a book may not have been an idea when I came back, but I wanted to do it when I met Hanyu for the first time. Oh, yes. Letters. The moment I remembered the letter, my thoughts drifted from the dream to the letter. Only fragmentary images of Everest have emerged in my mind. However, before fully waking up, Fukamachi wanted to watch the scene of the man marching towards the summit of Mount Everest one more time. I should have something to say to that man. don't leave me No, besides that, there should be other things that must be said. what is it then? Kayoko By the way, it's Kayoko. Don't take Kayoko away from me Consciousness suddenly became hazy, and in an instant, thoughts were sucked into sleep again. man standing. Looking directly at Fukamachi. A familiar face. The face of a man who is impossible to forget. Noriaki Gain That face stared at Fukamachi with mournful eyes.his lips moved Feel sorry Noriaki Kakura said so. Oh no. That's not what I want to remember. wrong. Suddenly regaining consciousness, Fukamachi lay on his back on the bed and opened his eyes in the darkness. He looked up at the dark ceiling. This is a cramped room in a business hotel. The body lying on the bed felt sticky from the sticky sweat. Still wearing clothes. Saying goodbye to Mizuno, he went back to his room and fell asleep while lying on his back on the bed. So hot. The air conditioner was not on. There is an electronic clock next to his head.The numerals showing the hour on the clock face glow blue phosphorescent in the dark. two o'clock in the morning Fukamachi sat up and sighed. Feel sorry Fukamachi clearly remembered Kakura Noriaki's expression at that time and the cadence of that sentence. The sentence of adding positions is the reason why I made up my mind to go to Mount Everest this time. 3 When Kakura invites him to drink, Fukamachi knows what that means. He thought to himself that he could finally relax now. Two years ago in the fall of 1991. The two went to drink.The location is an izakaya in Shinjuku. We talked about climbing mountains. The topic is the mountains we climbed together before, with my friends.When I went to climb Manaslu Peak ten years ago, I met Jiacang.Jiacang served as a luggage bearer in that expedition.When drinking with Kudo and the others in Tokyo, if he has time, he will also show up. Kacang and Fukamachi graduated from the same university, and they also have common topics. In the closed organization of the mountaineering team, they often chat. The two are the same age, and they even fall in love with the same woman. After changing the place to renew the stall and entering the second store, Jiacang continued to talk about mountain climbing. Jiacang has not mentioned that matter for a long time. Fukamachi's words became less and relatively, only Kakura became chatty. No matter how much they drank, neither of them was drunk. When the last order time has passed It doesn't matter what you say.Fukamachi said. Jiacang, who was originally chatty, shut his mouth and lowered his head. Are you dating Kayoko? Even when Fukamachi said so, Kakura didn't look up. After a long silence, Jiacang finally raised his head. Kakura stared at Fukamachi and lowered his head. Feel sorry In the dark, Fukamachi remembered what happened at that time. Segawa Kayoko Before that, the woman who dated Fukamachi for three years. She is the art designer who accepts the case work. Design magazine feature pages, sometimes draw illustrations, and also take on editorial work.She has her own desk in the editorial department of Qingmeishe, a publishing house, where she works exclusively and enjoys almost the same treatment as a full-time employee. Fukamachi met Kayoko when she was working for Aobisha's monthly magazine "Travel and Accommodation". At that time, Kayoko was twenty-nine years old and Fukamachi was thirty-four years old. She is a straight-forward woman who loves to climb mountains.Although she does not climb rocks, she has traveled all over the main peaks of the Northern and Southern Alps in Japan. Her eyes are rather big, her face is a bit thin, and she hardly uses makeup. When we first met, Fukamachi thought she was intellectually beautiful, but she was an iceberg beauty.Her businesslike attitude gave people a cold impression, but that was a matter of opinion.However, she is meticulous and impeccable in her work.Even the typesetting of small photos must implement its own style and ideas. Some of Fukamachi's best photos, edited to perfection by Kayoko. Some photos are taken from below the climbers who are climbing, and some photos only show the rocks, climbers and blue sky. The framing is simple but powerful. Can this photo be typeset upside down?Kayoko said: Because that is more shocking. Trying to do that, there is a surprising sense of height. The feature report titled "Sky Horizon" was well received. Three months later, Fukamachi's photos were used again on the main page and edited as a coloring page for the feature "Return to the Sky". At that time, Fukamachi and other staff were drinking with Kayoko.Thus, Fukamachi saw Kayoko smile for the first time. Fukamachi never dreamed that she would be so energetic in private, like a stereotyped landscape suddenly covered with bright colors. Half a month later, Fukamachi called the editorial department to invite Kayoko: Let's go have a drink. I'm not drunk for a thousand cups. Kayoko's response meant OK. Fukamachi knew that Kayoko had climbed mountains when she was a student, so she went to climb mountains with her several times. On the way back from the second mountaineering, Fukamachi had an intimate relationship with her at the hot spring hotel where she was staying. Since then, Fukamachi and Kayoko have met once or twice a week. Kayoko has Fukamachi captivated. Before that, Fukamachi also developed this kind of relationship with several women, but he always kept a three-point clear consciousness.Fukamachi has always believed that he is a person who can't be obsessed with women from the bottom of his heart, and he gradually thinks that he may really be Liu Xiahui who can sit still. However, since dating Kayoko, Fukamachi feels that he understands what it means for a man to be addicted to a woman. Although her whole body was slender and slender, Kayoko's breasts were so plump that Fukamachi couldn't grasp them with one hand.The skin is as smooth as silk, with a tactile feeling of being absorbed in the palm of your hand. The joy of watching a woman become more and more lewd after being trained by myself. The joy of becoming more and more lewd through a woman.Only then did Fukamachi realize that this kind of pleasure exists between men and women. In fact, although there was no such behavior, Fukamachi even felt that her urine could be drunk if it was to have a deeper intercourse with this woman. Fukamachi thought that he should be the first person to realize the matter of marriage. As soon as the marriage was mentioned, Kayoko said: I never thought about getting married.Because the current relationship is the best for me I'm not saying this because it's you, no matter who it is, I can't consider getting married I like my current lifestyle. Fukamachi thought that was what she meant. If Kayoko is in this mood, that's fine.If Kayoko doesn't want to get married, just think about it later. Kayoko used the excuse of being busy to reduce the time she spends with herself. When did it start? oops Fukamachi thought that he was about to fall into meaningless thoughts again. No matter how hard you think about it, there is no answer.Thinking will only sink you deeper into that quagmire. Forget it. It's best not to think about superfluous things, and focus on how to spend the time until the morning. Fukamachi glanced at the clock again. It was two fifty-three in the morning. Before I knew it, I thought about what happened at that time for nearly an hour. Fukamachi decided to change his mood. He was about to take a shower when he noticed another small red light. On the phone on the bedside table, the message light was on. Maybe someone called while he was asleep. However, he didn't seem to hear the phone ring.Looking at the volume switch on the phone, the ringtone of the incoming call has been turned to the minimum. The phone probably rang, but not loud enough to wake Fukamachi. Fukamachi called the counter and asked what kind of message it was. Around nine o'clock in the evening, Ms. Ryoko Kishi called.She left a message saying that she will contact you again. The man at the counter told Fukamachi so respectfully. that's all? Yes.that's all. Fukamachi hung up the microphone.Lie back on the bed again. Ryoko Kishi Fukamachi repeated in his mind the woman's name that the man at the counter said just now. The name of a strange woman. no wait a minute I always feel like I heard it somewhere. But, can't remember. Ryoko Kishi called again, two days later. I heard from Mr. Mizuno When she said this, Fukamachi realized that Ryoko Kishi was the one Mizuno had mentioned. I am Kishi Buntaro's younger sister. I see Fukamachi finally understood who Ryoko Kishi was. In December 1976, Hanyu took the man who died there to Pingfeng Rock, his sister. Uh, you belong to Mr. Buntaro Kishi Yes. Kishi Ryoko nodded on the other end of the microphone. She should be three years old, so now Should be thirty-four years old. About the same age as Kayoko. I heard that you are investigating Mr. Hanyu everywhere. uh, uh Do you know anything about Mr. Hanyu? Asked by her, Fukamachi said the same thing as Mizuno. Kishi Ryoko nodded and said: Mr. Fukamachi met Mr. Hanyu somewhere, right? Mr. Fukamachi must have gone to the Himalayas, right? Yes. Are you climbing Mount Everest from the Nepal side? But failed to reach the summit. Did you meet Mr. Hanyu at that time? Fukamachi hesitated for a while. However, being asked so clearly, Fukamachi couldn't play dumb. I saw him. Have you seen Mr. Hanyu?So, Mr. Hanyu is still in Nepal?Kishi Ryoko raised her voice. Judging from the question just now, at least it can be proved that Ryoko Kishi thinks that Hanyu may be in Nepal.However, judging by the tone of her voice now, she was probably not sure if Hanyu was really in Nepal. Does Miss Ryoko know that Mr. Hanyu is in Nepal? have no idea.Because Mr. Hanyu went to Nepal several years ago.I haven't heard of him coming back though, so I thought, maybe he's still there The topic changed to something unclear on the phone. Judging from Kishi Ryoko's tone, she seems to know a lot about Hanyu that Fukamachi doesn't. Ms. Ryoko, just now I said that I saw Mr. Hanyu, but that's just what I think. In fact, I'm not sure yet. How do you say that? I met a man in Kathmandu who was very similar to Joji Hanyu.I asked him if he was Joji Hanyu, but he didn't give me a positive answer. He didn't answer anything and just walked away However, Mr. Fukamachi thinks that person is Mr. Hanyu, right? Yes. For some reason, I want to see Mr. Hanyu again.So, I am visiting people who might know where Hanyu-san is now, asking them many things. Actually, I also want to know where Mr. Hanyu is.When Mizuno-san told me about this, I thought that Fukamachi-san might know something about Hanyu-san, so I contacted you.I think you might want to read Mr. Hanyu's handwriting You have his letter in your hand, don't you? Yes. Why is his letter in your hand? He himself deposited it with me. deposit? Fukamachi wanted to ask Ryoko Kishi: Why did Hanyu leave that letter with you?But halfway through the question, I decided not to ask. Feel sorry.Question about invasion of personal privacy Please don't take it to heart.I was mentally prepared to call you.I originally wanted to talk to someone about this, and I thought that Fukamachi-san might know something about Hanyu-san, so I made up my mind to call.However, when I called you two days ago, you were not there. I was actually relieved in my heart.Although I also made up my mind, every time I wanted to make a phone call, my heart would always waver. As a result, it took two days before I decided to make the second call Can you find a place to meet and have a good chat?I think by then I can describe in more detail what happened in Nepal good.Kishi Ryoko nodded. 4 I met Ryoko Kishi two days later. The place is the tea house of Shinjuku Plaza Hotel. The afternoon sunlight reflected on the window glass and walls of the diagonally opposite building penetrates in from the floor-to-ceiling windows of the teahouse. Kishi Ryoko came before Fukamachi and was already sitting at the window seat. Seeing "Yue Wang" on the table as a token, Fukamachi asked her aloud: Are you Miss Kishi Ryoko? I am.Kishi Ryoko nodded in greeting. excuse me. Fukamachi and Kishi Ryoko sat on chairs facing each other. Ryoko Kishi was wearing a large round neck suit with an open front, revealing her snow-white neck from the neckline. Around the neck is a turquoise stone the size of a little finger, fastened with a leather cord. Blue turquoise complements fair skin very well. The cat who has hardly ever left her own house, the atmosphere emanating from Ryoko Kishi when she came to someone else's house for the first time, carries this sense of tension. I came here on my own volition, so I can leave at any time by my own volition, and I can see this kind of determination from the tension. Fukamachi ordered coffee, and while the two were chatting intermittently, the waiter brought the coffee. I have a lot of things I want to ask you, but it was Ryoko Kishi who spoke first. I'm not going to prescribe conditions.Before that, please take a look at the letter Mr. Hanyu sent me here. Kishi Ryoko picked up the handbag on the chair next to her.Take out an old notebook from it. Kishi Ryoko said she didn't want to make a deal with this matter.Therefore, first take the initiative to show the cards in your hand in front of Fukamachi. is this okay? Fukamachi wanted to read the manuscript for a long time. However, once he read the manuscript unconditionally, when Ryoko Kishi asked questions afterwards, he couldn't lie to her. It doesn't matter. She seemed to have made up her mind, her tone firm. Then feel free to read it. Fukamachi picked up the notebook. small notebook.Although it is not as small as a notepad, it is also two circles smaller than ordinary notebooks. From part of the cover, to the back and part of the back cover, the whole cover is gray.Although there is space to write the subject, no words are written there. On the bottom of the cover, there are only two small characters of Hanyu written in a ballpoint pen. Fukamachi opened the letter. February 18, 1979. The beginning of the notebook was written in a ballpoint pen, slightly to the upper right, with rounded characters, and it said this. 5 【Letter from Joji Hanyu】 □□□ February 18, 1979 * so cold. Even though I was mentally prepared, it was still so cold.Of course I was mentally prepared to spend the cold winter nights on the 3,000-meter-plus rock face of the European Alps, but once I was in these temperatures, the degree of bone-chilling wind was unimaginable. However, no matter how cold it is, my determination is still stronger than the cold. Right now, I'm writing this article by the light of my headlamp. I was not good at writing.I brought my notebook because I wanted to write down everything that came to my mind, and it never really occurred to me to fill this notebook with words.I started writing this article not because I thought of anything, but because I couldn't sleep.I couldn't bear to stay awake and face my heart all night.Writing like this can relieve your mood, at least you don't have to think about the same thing over and over again. His fingertips felt as if they were frozen.I rubbed and patted my fingertips vigorously from time to time, while holding the ballpoint pen. It's twelve o'clock in the middle of the night. Two hours ago, the temperature was minus thirty-two degrees. The wind was strong.The wind speed should be thirty meters. There is always such a wind blowing here. Today, I am above the Rebfat Crack.I used my ice stick to shovel away the snow, made a small rock shed, drove wedges into the rock wall, fixed the camping tent to the wedges, got into the camping tent and curled up to sleep in a sleeping bag.No, I wasn't asleep, I was awake writing this notebook. Almost like a squirrel. Whenever a strong wind blows, my body seems to almost leave the rock wall together with the tent, and I can't help but tense up. What I ate today is what I wrote here, and I was shocked.I can't even remember what I ate a few hours ago.What the hell does this happen? Oh, it's chowder.I throw the dried rice and powdered soup into the universal pot with the dried vegetables and boil it, and eat it as it is.In addition, I also ate an orange and a small amount of chocolate. Every time the wind blows, a puff of snow falls from above, hitting the tents and falling into the valley. A scene appeared in my mind, I was hanging on the infinitely extending rock wall like garbage.Only I am alone, living alone between the heaven and the earth. I plan to climb this rock wall alone in eight days.I'm mentally prepared, so it doesn't matter if I can't sleep, but the fingertips are worrying.If there was frostbite, sooner or later the skin would turn purple-black, and the fingers would have to be amputated.I've seen several fingers like that. Open the zipper of the camping tent and look outside, it is a beautiful starry sky.Heat from the earth travels across the sky. I know that the entire rock wall is making a crunching sound as it continues to cool down.great!Even though the snow was completely frozen, it was so hard that even the blades of the crampons couldn't get in. After arriving here, I spend every day staring at the weather map. The weather suitable for climbing for a week is extremely rare here.Although there are sunny days, it is only one day, two days at most.But in a season, that is, during the three-month period of a winter, there will be one or two consecutive sunny days for about a week.How to properly seize this opportunity, which can be said to be the only one in a winter, is critical to whether you can successfully climb the Walker Side Ridge alone. Unbelievably, when I stare at the weather map every day, checking the whole earth, this area of ​​the northern hemisphere, and the weather in this area, unconsciously, I can predict the weather in this area more accurately than the weather forecast. If the weather forecast anchor loses his life due to his own forecast error, the accuracy of the forecast will probably be doubled. And this morning marks the first, and perhaps the only, chance of this winter.Before yesterday, snow fell from gray skies every day, but this morning was unbelievably clear. This morning, I climbed the rock face and finished the Rebfat Crack. Seriously, climbing alone is four times as hard as climbing with two people. Even so, you can't only take half of the luggage, and you have to carry the luggage that weighs almost two people alone. It takes twice as much work. Climbing the distance of a section of climbing rope with bare hands, driving the wedge nails into the top, hanging down to the bottom, carrying the luggage left there and then climbing up.Double times double, so the total is four times. I've known for a long time that I don't get much sleep at night. I have already thought about it in my mood. It is not so much used for sleeping at night as it is used to rest my tired body.Because if you don't prepare this kind of mental preparation in advance from the beginning, you will be mentally miserable. Hase presumably has entered Lasker Mountain House.If he goes in there, he should know that I have climbed the Great Cholas. I was thinking, why am I here now? I'm not resenting Chang-gu.I didn't want to be in the way of that man, nor was I trying to be annoying. It's obviously my own mood, but I can't describe it well. However, I care about that man.I don't seem to want to lose to him. I don't hate that man. Why would you start thinking about such a thing?Maybe this is a great opportunity to think about that. I can't organize my feelings well. Isn't the reason why I'm here now is to protect myself? I came here to protect myself. Whether it's the North Face of the Matterhorn, the North Face of Eiger, or the Great Cholas Peak, I originally thought about climbing alone in winter.If I have a chance, I probably want to climb all by myself like Zhang Gu.I am such a person.Presumably the same is true of others.Therefore, I don’t think it’s wrong for Zhang Gu to want to climb all three north walls by himself.I don't think he's at fault, but if I had the chance, I think the boss would have climbed one of the north walls without hesitation I feel like this is what it means to protect yourself. I can only climb mountains.Only rock climbing.Hase took the only thing from himself.Of course, Hase probably didn't realize this kind of thing. But, at least the man took the ghost rock from me. I think that I probably came here now to get back what was taken away.Probably that's right.The reason why I say roughly is because I can't describe my mood well.If you turn the indescribable mood into an article, I am afraid that the mood will be led by the nose by the words.Therefore, I don't really like to write articles or put all kinds of things that happened during the mountain climbing into words. Once you do that, you will feel less emotional intensity in your heart. Climbers only need to climb mountains. That is tantamount to directly writing mountain climbing into articles or words. However, writing mountain climbing as an article is tantamount to repeating the same thing. That being the case, I think we should simply use the energy of thinking about the article for another kind of innovation. Fingers are at their limit. I held my fingers under my armpit to keep warm, while thinking about the following in my mind with the feeling of writing You can't climb this rock wall without facing yourself deeply. All alone. It seems that all human beings on the earth are dead, and only I am left alone in this rock wall and wind. □□□ February 19 * I fell down. I failed. I lost.I lost to Big Choras Peak. Why didn't you fall to your death?If I just fell down and died without realizing it, I wouldn't have to realize that I was defeated like this. Now that he has recovered his life, he will not want to die. so cold.My whole body hurts.Ah, how did it end up like this?I'm dying.I might die here.Writing the word "death" by myself feels so realistic.I am more afraid after writing than before. Why did it fall? oh Oh shit! It's a skyhook. I hooked it to rest on a ledge above. Just above it is a hanging rock. I see the route.Difficult as it is, there are routes out there.Climbing to the left in a zigzag and then climbing up is an easy traditional route.I saw pegs driven into the wall over there, so it should be an easy line. However, I saw a straight line up from there. Climbing to the left is not my route.That's just the act of following a route that other people have climbed.The vertical climbing route that no one has climbed yet is my route.I can make a mark on this rock face. Not only that.That rock wall has to be climbed vertically to be beautiful. I think it is a rock wall that exists to be climbed vertically. I think this consciousness probably works in my head.Actually I don't know.Today, I write while thinking about that incident, so this article has accidentally become an excuse for myself. Anyway, I took that route and fell down. The vertical route is very difficult. However, that doesn't mean it's difficult.If it were a wall that couldn't be climbed vertically, I wouldn't do it either. Difficult as it was, that face looked very likely to be vertically climbed. Gentle hanging rock. However, there are places for the fingers and fingertips to grip, and there are also grooves for the fingers to insert from halfway up the wall.As long as you use two or three manual climbing, you can climb to the top.Moreover, after climbing vertically here, the next journey will be easy.Anyway, even if he climbed in a zigzag to the left first, he would still have to return to the top of this hanging rock sooner or later. If you want to do something no one has done, you should do it where no one has climbed.This is not a big reason. However, if you choose a route only considering safety, you shouldn't come to such a place alone in the cold winter from the very beginning. I took a bite of the frozen rock chocolate and decided to climb vertically. All the way.Even the seemingly tricky places were successfully overcome. What is worrying is that the snow attached to the grooves and grooves around the rock wall has formed solid ice.If you accidentally put your weight on it, it will often just peel off. After climbing the distance of two climbing ropes, we came to the small rock shed. From there, the snow cleared and turned to glassy blue ice. Rocks are packed with ice. Hanging down, take the luggage under there first, and then start climbing the ice wall. I don't know hundreds, thousands, or tens of thousands of years, but I always feel that this Great Cholas Peak has turned into blue ice from the ancient times to the present, seeping out from the inner side of the rock wall.Holding an ice hammer in the right hand and an ice ax in the left, climbing this historic mountain is exciting.Step on the blades of your crampons into the steel-hard ice, drive your ice ax into the wall, and pull your body up. I think I fell down there after climbing twenty-five meters. The ice embedded in the blades of the twelve crampons on his right foot suddenly cracked and peeled off. The weight on the right foot suddenly disappeared. At that time, the body had left the ice wall and was floating in the air.I reluctantly kicked the ice wall with my left foot that remained on the ice wall.This is done to prevent the body from colliding with the rock shelf 25 meters below when falling. There is a sinking feeling as if being sucked into somewhere from the back. At that time, various images flashed through my mind. Is that moment finally here? I think I feel both that thought and the feeling that I'm dead now. When I turned around, I saw the blue sky with white clouds floating on the other side of the crampon blade.Then, I also saw white ice sticking to the tip of the blade of the right crampon. I always feel that at such a critical moment of life and death, even such a small part is imprinted on the retina, which is inconceivable.The mood is also very relaxed, and the memory is fragmented.Oh, this time I lost to Zhang Gu, I don’t need to work hard anymore, I can be relieved now This mood comes to mind by turns. Written as an article is very long, but in fact, it is a more short flash. A shock. I don't even remember what happened afterwards. I think that the climbing rope probably supported my falling weight, and when the rope was tightened, it hit the rock, but I don't know the details. I put the fulcrum of the climbing rope at the rock shed and climbed twenty-five meters from there.First, my body fell 25 meters to the height of the rock shed, and from there I fell 25 meters in length from the fulcrum on the rock shed, so I fell 50 meters in total. The climbing rope supported the weight of a big man falling fifty meters.Because the climbing rope has elasticity, it can probably absorb that momentum.The climbing rope probably stretched nearly three meters. 我被登山繩懸吊在半空中，醒了過來。全身上下都痛。 當登山繩筆直繃緊時，身體擺動，直接狠狠撞上了岩壁。 每次呼吸，肺部就感到一陣劇痛。左側肋骨似乎斷了。而且好冷。我好像是因為寒冷而甦醒的。 一看手錶，居然從墜下之後，過了四小時半。 手上握著刀子。 似乎在失去意識，吊在半空中時感到痛苦，而下意識地用刀子割開了身上的衣物。 雙腳的冰爪都掉了，而冰鎚和冰斧也不知道掉到哪兒去了，消失不見。 左腳沒有感覺。左臂也麻痹，好像不是自己的手臂。令人害怕的是，手套也沒了。 至於冰鎚和冰斧，原本是以繩索綁在身上。看來自己似乎下意識地連那些東西也以刀子割斷了 撐住自己身體的登山繩竟然沒斷。 左手和左腳完全動不了。 自己身體的左側觸著岩壁。 我讓右手和右腳搭上岩壁，緩緩移動身體，抵達近在身旁的岩棚。 傍晚了。 我看見夕陽沒入遠方連綿山巒的峰頂。 這時，恐懼又在自己心裡擴散開來。因為我意識到了一件重要的事。 我想起了糧食、露宿帳、睡袋，全都放在上方距這裡二十五公尺的岩棚。 肋骨斷掉，左臂、左腳不聽使喚。從現在到太陽西沉之前的時間，實在不足以爬到上方的岩棚。 寫這份筆記時，太陽下山，星星升起。 沉積在正下方的藍色拉斯科冰河，已經夜幕低垂。 so cold. 已經沒有任何物品能夠讓身體避寒。 我只能抱著肚子，蜷著身體。非睡不可。可是，如果睡著的話，大概又會摔下去。 下墜的距離雖短，但如果又吊在半空中的話，那就完蛋了。 我又拿起筆。 寫點什麼吧。 在寫的時候不會死。寫不了的時候就是死的時候。 然而，要寫什麼呢？對了，寫攀岩的事吧。明明那麼焦急，像是被什麼催促似地攀上了岩壁，但一攀上之後，心情卻突然平靜下來，鬆了一口氣。 儘管如此，攀爬時會頻頻往下看。我大概是害怕長谷的臉不知會在什麼時候，從我胯下冒出來吧。 so cold. 腦袋中一片空白。 每當想起什麼就拿起筆。 好像沒有東西好寫了。打了好幾次瞌睡。 常常不會感覺寒冷。因為相當暖和，所以一覺得不對勁，寒意就突然又襲上身。 左手已經凍傷了。我用右手寫這篇文章。 因為是在黑暗中寫，所以不曉得字究竟長怎樣。會是看得懂的字嗎？不，這看不看得懂都沒關係。因為目的在於寫本身。寫字才是目的。 星星好美。 星星好美。 我把雙手夾在腋下取暖。 或許骨折了，右臂發熱腫脹。 我一面取暖，一面寫。 幸好風勢不怎麼強。如果強的話，我大概在一小時前就已經死了。 時間過了多久呢？ 我害怕看手錶。要是一看，發現摔下來之後才過了半小時怎麼辦？到時候，我說不定會發瘋。 我看見了燈光。在拉斯科冰河前方。那邊大概有人家吧。 那個光線在動。往這裡爬來。 大概有人來救我了吧。No, not right.人不可能移動那麼迅速。 不對，這是幻覺。 幻覺。 這麼一想，燈光又處於原本的位置。 它沒有在動。 ah This is how the same thing?剛才看得見的一帶看不見了。說不定連那個燈光也是幻覺。或者是霧漸漸飄進拉斯科冰河而遮住了燈光。就當作是那麼回事吧。如果當作是那麼回事，就代表我還沒瘋。 氣溫降至零下三十度了吧。 鼻水結冰了。 左手手指的血也跟著結凍了。用右手摸摸看左手手指，也硬得像石頭。 我剛才摔下來了。 因為吊在半空中的衝擊力而醒來，感覺到鬼門關前走了一回，回到了同一個岩棚。一開始，我吊在半空中，把手腳伸向岩壁另一邊的空間。為什麼會弄錯方向呢？因為頭昏腦脹。因為頭昏腦脹，因為已經沒有體力，因為，已經沒有體力，所以下次再吊在半空中的話，就回不來了。very scary.I don't want to die.沒錯，我需要求生的念頭。如果想著不想死，光想不會死就是不會死，大概就代表我命在旦夕了。 I don't want to die. 只要撐到明天天亮。 只要撐到黎明破曉。 拚了！ 明天不要命地爬爬看。 目前為止最棒的攀岩。 一心只想這件事。因為我需要活著的畫面。 really weird. 我想起了奇怪的事。 因為在腦中想也想不通，所以我開始寫。 摔下來的時候，我為什麼會覺得這下能夠解脫了呢？ 一點也不能解脫。 因為還活著，所以不能解脫。 可是，就算活著不輕鬆，也不能因此而希望獲得解脫。解脫意味著死亡，可是，為什麼不能死呢？為什麼非活下去不可呢？這大概是個大哉問。事後再想吧。可是，我要現在想。我該思考什麼才好呢？ 現在，我聽見了聲音。 Hello Hello 我想，有人來救我了。 我差點回應：我在這裡、在這裡。要是回應幻覺或幻聽的話，就完蛋了。 死、亡。 oh. 是岸這傢伙。 岸這傢伙吊在那裡看著我。 以當時的姿勢。 大腿骨鑽進胸腔，臉上滿是鮮血，表情因為痛苦而皺成一團。 可是，他在笑。頻頻招手要我過去。 岸啊。岸啊 我也想過去。 我也想過去那邊。 可是，我大喬拉斯峰才爬到一半。讓我爬到最後。 我要竭盡所能地爬，竭盡全力地爬，反正非去不可的時候，我自然會去你身邊。 我對著岸說。 可是，幸好是岸這傢伙來接我。 現在，讓我加油。 還剩區區二十五公尺。去到那邊，也有吃的。 都是因為你，害我想起了食物。 我也想起了肚子餓。 我想泡個熱水澡。 上高地的鉡卷溫泉。 只有在去爬谷川的回程路上，去泡過一次水上溫泉。 Hello. 我為什麼要爬山呢？ 因為我只有爬山吧。 岸，你去哪了？ 你應該懂吧？ 我不太清楚自己為什麼要爬山。明明覺得自己十分清楚，可是一旦思考原因，就忽然搞不清楚了。 好歹我知道，如果不思考原因，我就十分清楚。 我願意拿其他人擁有的所有事物，用來交換爬山。 我知道我只有爬山。 I see. 明天要爬山唷 至今將近二十年，我也只是一味地攀岩、向上爬。 明天的二十五公尺，我要爬給你看。拿出我至今所有看家本領。 岸。 岸啊 再讓我看一次你的臉！ 痛苦的時候，只要想起比現在更痛苦的事，現在的事就能忍受。 不過是這種芝麻小事。 Hello □□□ 二月二十日 * 生還。 現在，我在搭露宿帳，把楔釘打進岩壁，固定露宿帳。 鑽進露宿帳中，穿上所有衣服。 吃硬得像石頭的巧克力，把雪煮成熱水，再將剩下的巧克力和所有砂糖溶入熱水中喝下。 雖說是搭露宿帳，但因為是狹窄的岩棚，所以只是抓著露宿帳的兩處，拉到上方的岩壁。使用營柱和登山背包，在岩棚中撐出一個人只能勉強橫躺的空間。 明明喝了一堆熱水，卻絲毫沒有湧現半點力氣。 雖說是生還，但有時候只是閻羅王准許你多活一晚，甚至是多活幾小時。 今天一天內，一口氣用光了至今二十年份的所有努力。難道至今的二十年，只是為了攀爬這二十五公尺嗎？ 這種事情大概沒辦法再來一次吧。 能夠使用的只有右手、右腳，以及牙齒。 我使用繩環，在主登山繩上打普魯士結。 一面讓普魯士結的繩結慢慢以五公厘或一公分的距離在主登山繩上滑動，一面攀爬。 右腳抵在岩壁上，右手握著主登山繩，支撐體重。在此同時，用牙齒讓普魯士結的繩結向上移動。這件事並不簡單。每行動一次，就會用掉所有體力，因此必須稍作休息。即使好不容易攀登一公尺，也會因為普魯士結的繩結鬆開，而滑落三十公分有時甚至將近五十公分。 用牙齒鬆開凍結的繩結，然後再綁緊。這件事做了不下千百次。 早上開始這個動作，抵達目的地已經傍晚了。 九小時？十小時？ 我一整天就在做這件事。 我體內已經什麼也不剩。不光是力氣、體力等能以言語形容的事物，連所有無法用言語形容的事物也在這趟攀登中全用光了。 於是，我得到的是可以多活一晚或幾小時的生存權。 我不會說是神的恩賜或幸運。因為是我親手獲得這項權利的。 一眨眼間，入夜了。 got windy. 我曾打瞌睡，但那不足以稱為睡眠。 so cold.比昨晚更冷許多。 我把巧克力放進口中，但過了老半天也不融化。食不知味。 我想，我說不定是把石頭放進了口中。 攀爬期間也一直聽到幻聽。連岸那傢伙和伊藤先生都跑出來，對我說：換我爬前導吧。 我還可以，再讓我撐一下。我一面這麼回答，一面爬。 喝了熱水，幻聽一度消失，但似乎又開始了。 我迷迷糊糊地打瞌睡，聽見外頭有人在叫我的名字，所以現在爬了起來。 I didn't respond.因為我知道那是幻聽。 因為那道聲音是從我的左側，也就是空無一物的空曠空間傳來。 我醒來好幾次。 風勢終於增強，差點連露宿帳一起颳走。 如果把楔釘打進岩壁時，仔細確認打進岩壁多深就好了。 總之，我已經受夠了被某個人的聲音叫醒。所以人都滾一邊去！可以不用再來了。 會有人來救我嗎？ 我並沒有後援隊，所以大概沒有人會特地跑來，發現我變成了這副模樣。假如有人發現我，若不是朝這裡而來的長谷，大概就是長谷的後援偵查小組的某個人吧。 又醒來了。 原本吊在臉上方的露宿帳，一部分垂了下來。 楔釘鬆脫了。 我沒有力氣走出露宿帳，重新把楔釘打進岩壁了。 我已經沒辦法做任何事了。而且也不想做。 讓我自生自滅吧！ 別吵醒我！ 我縮在岩棚邊緣的岩石後面。 鑽進睡袋，以登山繩和楔釘固定身體。把登山背包鋪在屁股底下，用露宿帳裹住身體。 不久之前，第二根楔釘鬆脫，被風吹動，險些連露宿帳一起掉下去。 因為蓋著睡袋和露宿帳，所以比昨晚好過，但一想到強風，其實是一樣的。因為缺乏體力，所以相形之下，狀況應該比昨天更惡劣。 花了將近一小時，才在這個地方固定了自己的身體。 頭燈的電池也因此用到幾乎沒電了。我想電池應該就在某個地方，但是沒有體力去找。 因為身在岩石後面，所以不會直接受到強風吹襲，但是因為風在打旋，所以空氣持續在流動。 因此，很冷。 空間好窄。 一旦靜靜不動，馬上就會感到疲憊，膝蓋疼痛起來，所以每隔幾分鐘就要挪動膝蓋的位置。 夜才剛開始。 一想到又要度過令人難以忍受的漫漫長夜，頓時感到絕望。 我心想：若像這樣努力半天之後，結果還是沒命，或許現在死了還比較好。可是，這麼想的那一瞬間，就打消了那個想法，所以大概不要緊吧。 我從剛才就看見隊伍。 有許多身穿白衣的人，朝我眼前的空間走去。 全都是熟人。 可是，明明都是熟人，但我卻無法具體認出他們是誰。 當我想問他們要去哪時，隊伍中的一個人回過頭來。 我覺得如果問了之後，對方沒有回答，一定非常可怕，所以我沒問那個人。 幸好沒問剛才隊伍的那個人。 因為事後思考，得到了那是幻覺的結論。 如果向幻覺發問，自己也會陷入幻覺之中。 光是用鼻子呼吸，鼻腔痛了起來。 我用右手手指擤鼻涕。擤出了紅色帶血、冰沙狀的鼻涕。 一咳嗽，便感覺胸口疼痛。大概是肋骨裂開了吧。 即使用頭燈照，左手的小指和無名指也變成了紫色。血大概凍得硬梆梆了。 我十分清楚，變成這樣的話，就必須切除手指。因為我看過好幾次這種情形。 左腳腳趾大概也不行了。 頭好癢。 我鬆開安全帽，用右手手指搔癢。頭髮縫隙間好像塞了不少沙子，硬物跑進了指甲縫。 撲簌簌地掉下來。 一看之下，竟是結塊的血。 大概是昨天摔下來時，頭撞到哪裡了吧。 安全帽有個地方裂開了。 涼子小姐，我該說什麼才好呢？涼子小姐，抱歉。我已經不能再為你做什麼了。 因為我已無能為力。 從剛才開始，岸那傢伙就在扯我的衣袖。用他折成原本三分之一大小的身體，試圖拉動我的手。 時間已經到了嗎？ 你用那張嘴巴在笑嗎？ That's it.已經非去不可了嗎？ 沒有未了的事嗎？ 你寂寞嗎？ 岸啊 去你身邊也行。 可是啊，我覺得我還不能接受。 我發出了聲音嗎？還是在我的心裡想呢？ 且慢。 wait a second. 岸。 岸啊別露出那麼悲傷的表情！ 我還不過去。 這麼一說，岸的身影消失了。發出呼呼風聲。 哦，原來在拉扯衣袖的是風啊。 縱然是風，若是被拉去那邊，便是漆黑的夜。會墜入那裡。 岸那傢伙出現好幾次，一下子拉我的衣袖，一下子拿出刀子想割斷登山繩。 明明身高只剩原本的一半，卻將手搭在打進岩石的楔釘上，想把它拔出來。 可是，因為岸的左膝就在他的臉正前方，所以好像看不清楚楔釘。 那麼希望我去陪他嗎？ 既然這樣，乾脆去好了。 像那樣用牙齒咬冰冷的楔釘也沒用。 岸。 我真的發出聲音。 再等一下，我遲早會去你身邊。 我早晚會摔下去，我會在那天之前去。 如果我因為害怕摔下去，而放棄爬山，或忘記你的事，開始思考世俗的事，到了那個時候，你就來帶我走。 Now is not the time. 我在摔下去之前會去。 相信我，我一定會去。 不過，唯獨故意摔下去這件事我辦不到。 岸啊岸啊 別露出那麼悲傷的表情！別用那種眼神看我！ 你聽好了。 我絕對不會想要自己獨得幸福。我也不想獲得解脫。 你聽好了。 我只能答應你這件事。 我不會放棄來這裡。 do not worry!我會一直爬山。 okay? oh. You came just in time. 岸。 要不要去喝啤酒？ 東啤酒。 好喝的南啤酒。 哪裡都好。 我一直以為，岩縫在跑一定是因為我在哭才會那樣，如果爬到那裡的話，就算難吃的東西也會變得好吃 long night. 我覺得沒有什麼好寫，也懶得思考，但已經用不著發瘋。只要食物好好地吊在天花板的飾品上，就別再爬了。連不能吃的東西，電線杆跑哪兒去了？ 跑哪兒去了？ 別倒下啊！ 漫長的、夜。 漫長的、漫長的、夜。 漫長的 終於睏了，可是，睡著大概就死定了，實驗，可是，沒辦法，證明，要等死了以後 我睏了，別叫我。就算叫我，我也不起來了。 I Hello Hello 聲音。 人的聲音。 我不回應。 不回應。 我不要回應。 我打死也不要回 □□□ 二月二十一日 * 生還。 □□□ February 22 * 醫院床上。 被直升機救出來，飛越大喬拉斯峰上方時，眼淚掉了下來。