Chapter 3 Preface

The three Everest expeditions before and after have been described by the previous participants and published in these three books: "Mount Everest: The Reconnaissancce" (Mount Everest: The Reconnaissancce, 1921), "The Assault on Mount Everest" (The Assault on Mount Everest, 1922) and The Fight for Everest (1924).This book represents the Everest Committee and is condensed from the contents of the above three books.For the sake of consistency and brevity of narrative, this book does not reproduce the terms used by the original authors of the above three books, but they have quoted as much as possible.The author unreservedly acknowledges and expresses gratitude to the heroic mountaineers who brought back such vivid accounts.

Young Husband June 1926 Note Just as the following manuscript pages were being printed, a relevant piece of news appeared in the newspaper, but it was too late to be included in this article.The news is as follows: Dr. JS Haldane, in his speech to the Human Physiology Department of the British Humanities Association at Oxford University on high-altitude soil and water adaptation, stated that the latest facts of human physiology obtained from the Mount Everest expedition, of the most shocking nature.This fact shows that even at an altitude of 27,000 feet it is possible to achieve sufficient acclimatization without any symptoms of altitude sickness.The experience of Norton, Somerwell and Ordell at that height is the conclusion.Any amount of time an unaccustomed person spends at twenty-seven thousand feet means absolutely certain death.He hypothesized that the lungs would actively secrete oxygen to the end, and explained the acclimatization on Everest